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  • HI, I'M RICK STEVES.

  • FOR 20 SUMMERS I'VE BEEN EXPLORING EUROPE

  • WITH MY TRAVEL WRITING AND TEACHING IN MIND,

  • MAKING LOTS OF MISTAKES AND TAKING CAREFUL NOTES

  • IN HOPES THAT YOU CAN LEARN FROM MY MISTAKES

  • RATHER THAN YOUR OWN.

  • IN THIS SERIES WE'RE EXPLORING THE BEST OF EUROPE.

  • THIS TIME WE'LL TOUR POPULAR SANTORINI --

  • AN ISLAND ON THE LIP OF A STILL-ACTIVE VOLCANO.

  • WE'LL ENJOY BEING A TOURIST

  • IN ITS QUINTESSENTIAL WHITE-WASHED VILLAGES,

  • VISIT AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL DIG AT ONE OF ITS ANCIENT CITIES,

  • AND SWIM ON ITS BLACK-SAND BEACH.

  • THEN WE'LL CRUISE THE AEGEAN TO THE ISLAND OF SAMOS,

  • WHERE WE'LL TOUR ITS SIGHTS BY MOPED

  • AND VISIT THE RUINS OF AN ANCIENT TEMPLE

  • BEFORE RESTING IN A QUIET FISHING VILLAGE.

  • AND FINALLY WE'LL FEAST AND FROLIC

  • ON THE REMOTE SHORES OF LIPSI.

  • GREECE LIES BETWEEN ITALY AND TURKEY

  • ON THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA.

  • STARTING IN ATHENS,

  • WE'LL TAKE AN OVERNIGHT FERRY TO THE ISLAND OF SANTORINI.

  • THEN WE'LL HEAD EAST TO THE LARGER ISLAND OF SAMOS,

  • AND FINISH WITH A SIDE TRIP TO TINY LIPSI.

  • IT'S BY SHIP

  • THAT PEOPLE HAVE ISLAND-HOPPED THE AEGEAN FOR CENTURIES.

  • THIS OVERNIGHT BOAT FROM ATHENS TO SANTORINI

  • OFFERS TICKETS IN SEVERAL CLASSES.

  • DECK CLASS IS CHEAPEST AND CAN MEAN LITERALLY ON THE DECK.

  • FOR A FEW EXTRA DOLLARS, AN AIRPLANE-TYPE SEAT

  • CAN MAKE LIFE CONSIDERABLY MORE COMFORTABLE.

  • AND FOR EVEN MORE COMFORT, TRY FIRST CLASS.

  • ALONG WITH SOFT CHAIRS AND TABLES,

  • YOU CAN BE ASSURED OF SOME SLEEP IN A STATEROOM.

  • OUR CABIN HAS A WINDOW AND A PRIVATE SHOWER.

  • CHEAPER CABINS OFFER A SHOWER DOWN THE HALL.

  • BY THE WAY, EVEN PASSENGERS WITHOUT A STATEROOM

  • CAN GO DOWN TO THE CHEAP CABIN DECK

  • AND GRAB A FREE HOT SHOWER.

  • GREEK FERRIES ARE REASONABLY PRICED.

  • IN FACT, THIS ALL-NIGHT CRUISE

  • INCLUDING BEDS IN A COMFORTABLE STATEROOM IS COSTING US LESS

  • THAN WHAT WE PAID FOR OUR HOTEL IN ATHENS LAST NIGHT.

  • WHILE SPEEDY TRAVELERS

  • CAN FLY FROM ATHENS TO THE MAJOR GREEK ISLES,

  • WE'RE IN THE AEGEAN TO RELAX,

  • FEEL THE BREEZE,

  • AND HAVE A LITTLE ADVENTURE.

  • FOR ME, THAT'S BEST DONE ON THE FERRY BOATS.

  • SUNRISE AND OUR GREEK ISLAND DREAM COME TRUE -- SANTORINI.

  • THOUSANDS OF YEARS AGO, THIS WAS ONE ISLAND,

  • A VOLCANO NAMED THIRA.

  • FIFTEEN HUNDRED YEARS BEFORE CHRIST,

  • A HUGE ERUPTION BLEW AWAY MOST OF THE ISLAND,

  • LEAVING A FLOODED CRATER

  • SURROUNDED BY FIVE SMALL ISLANDS.

  • TODAY, SANTORINI -- ONE OF THE REMAINING ISLANDS --

  • IS A LIP OF THE CRATER, LINED WITH TOURISTS.

  • FOR 3,500 YEARS,

  • THE VOLCANO HAS DESTROYED A SERIES OF ISLAND SETTLEMENTS,

  • THE LATEST IN 1956 WHEN IT TOPPLED 2,000 HOUSES.

  • YET, LOCALS STILL BUILD AND TOURISTS STILL COME.

  • WHY?

  • THOSE WHO VISIT WILL UNDERSTAND.

  • LUCKILY, WE'RE ARRIVING HERE IN MID-SEPTEMBER,

  • JUST AFTER THE PEAK SUMMER MONTHS.

  • ALTHOUGH THIS LOOKS PRETTY BUSY,

  • MOST OF THE STUDENTS HAVE GONE HOME.

  • AND HUNGRY LOCAL ENTREPRENEURS

  • ARE EAGER TO TALK US INTO FOLLOWING THEM

  • TO THEIR BEAUTIFUL LITTLE PENSION.

  • [ talking indistinctly ]

  • Rick: YES.

  • SHOWER IN ROOM. TWO BED.

  • LOOKS LIKE WE HAVE OUR ROOMS.

  • WITH MINIBUSES AND MINI-PICKUPS, PENSION OPERATORS

  • SHUTTLE NEW ARRIVALS TO THEIR ACCOMMODATIONS.

  • UPSCALE TRAVELERS GENERALLY ARRIVE BY AIR

  • AND STAY AT ONE OF THE MANY RENTAL VILLAS OR POSH HOTELS.

  • SANTORINI'S MAIN TOWN, THIRA, IS AN EXOTIC WHITE-WASHED TOWN

  • OFFERING THE QUINTESSENTIAL GREEK ISLAND EXPERIENCE.

  • TOURISTS COME YEAR AFTER YEAR TO SOAK UP THE SUN

  • AND STROLL THE TINY LANES OF THIS TOWN

  • PERCHED 700 HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE SEA.

  • SO WHAT IF SANTORINI'S A LITTLE TOURISTY?

  • THAT'S NOT NECESSARILY BAD.

  • THERE'S LOTS OF SHOPPING, ENGLISH MENUS, FRUITY DRINKS,

  • AND PLENTY OF BRITISH AND SCANDINAVIAN FELLOW TRAVELERS.

  • WE ALL ENJOY THE SPECTACULAR PHYSICAL SETTING

  • AND UNMATCHED VIEWS IRONICALLY CREATED BY THE VOLCANO.

  • BUT DON'T LET BEING A TOURIST

  • GET IN THE WAY OF ENJOYING SOME AUTHENTIC GREEK TREATS.

  • YOGURT AND HONEY IS A WONDERFUL LOCAL TRADITION.

  • GREEK YOGURT COMES PLAIN AND SUPER CREAMY.

  • MIX IN A LITTLE HONEY AND I'M ONE HAPPY HEDONIST.

  • MMM.

  • [ moped putting ]

  • ONE OF THE ADVANTAGES OF A TOURIST HOT SPOT,

  • CAN BE THE VERY CONVENIENT TOURS.

  • EVEN FOR THE MOST INDEPENDENT-MINDED TRAVELERS,

  • THERE ARE TIMES WHEN AN ORGANIZED BUS TOUR

  • IS A FINE WAY TO SPEND HALF A DAY.

  • AT NOON OUR BUS LEAVES FOR THE FIVE-HOUR TOUR

  • OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF SANTORINI.

  • Tour guide: Kalimera.

  • Kalimera IS THE GREEK WORD FOR "GOOD MORNING."

  • THIS IS YOUR GUIDE SPEAKING, AND MY NAME IS EVIE.

  • NOW LET ME TELL YOU WHERE WE GO

  • AND WHAT WE'LL SEE TODAY.

  • THIS TOUR INCLUDES A VISIT TO THE ANCIENT RUINS OF AKROTIRI,

  • A LITTLE FREE TIME

  • ON ONE OF THE ISLAND'S BEST BLACK-SAND BEACHES,

  • PLENTY OF INFORMATION,

  • AND A RIDE TO THE SUMMIT OF THE ISLAND FOR A GRAND VIEW.

  • UP HERE, BEGINNING IN THE 18th CENTURY,

  • THE MONKS IN THE MONASTERY

  • PRESERVED AND TAUGHT THE GREEK LANGUAGE AND CULTURE

  • DURING CENTURIES OF TURKISH OCCUPATION.

  • ON THE ROAD AGAIN, ON OUR WAY TO AKROTIRI.

  • WITHOUT WHEELS WE'D STILL BE BACK IN THIRA.

  • THE TOUR GIVES THE ISLAND

  • AN AIR-CONDITIONED ONCE-OVER-LIGHTLY

  • AND GETS US HOME IN TIME FOR DINNER.

  • AND HERE IT IS, AKROTIRI, THE HIGHLIGHT OF THIS TOUR.

  • AKROTIRI IS THE MOST IMPRESSIVE DIG I'VE SEEN

  • IN THE ENTIRE AEGEAN, INCLUDING ANYTHING ON CRETE.

  • THIS WAS A LARGE CITY.

  • WITH ONLY ABOUT 1/30th OF THE CITY UNEARTHED,

  • MUCH ARCHEOLOGICAL WORK REMAINS.

  • AN ADVANCED CIVILIZATION THRIVED HERE

  • FROM 2,000 B.C. UNTIL ABOUT 1,500 B.C.,

  • WHEN THE ISLAND EXPLODED

  • IN ONE OF THE LARGEST VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS

  • IN THE HISTORY OF OUR PLANET.

  • THE BOOM FROM THE ERUPTION WAS HEARD IN SCANDINAVIA

  • AND WAS FOLLOWED BY MONTHS OF DARKNESS.

  • THE CITY REVEALED BENEATH THE THICK LAYERS OF ASH AND PUMICE

  • SHOWS A PLAN NOT TOO DIFFERENT

  • FROM PRESENT-DAY VILLAGES ON SANTORINI.

  • NARROW STREETS WIDEN HERE AND THERE INTO SQUARES.

  • HOUSES LINE THE STREETS,

  • SOME THREE, POSSIBLY FOUR STORIES HIGH.

  • Guide: THERE IS NO DOUBT

  • THAT THIS WAS A PUBLIC BUILDING.

  • IN FACT, SOME ARCHEOLOGISTS ARE CONVINCED

  • THAT THIS WAS THE ADMINISTRATION CENTER OF THE TOWN.

  • ON THE GROUND FLOOR THERE ARE SOME 20 ROOMS,

  • NOT ALL OF THEM INVESTIGATED.

  • A WEALTH OF POTTERY CONTINUES TO BE UNEARTHED.

  • AND MOST EXCITING, PERHAPS,

  • HAS BEEN THE DISCOVERY OF BEAUTIFULLY PAINTED WALLS.

  • THE FRESCOES, NOW REMOVED TO THE NATIONAL MUSEUM IN ATHENS,

  • TELL US MUCH ABOUT THE LIFE OF THESE ANCIENT PEOPLE.

  • TO DATE, THE ONLY INTACT ROOM TO BE UNCOVERED

  • CONTAINED THIS FRESCO OF LILIES OR PAPYRUS AND SWALLOWS.

  • IT'S AN IDYLLIC SPRING SCENE

  • OF FLIRTING BIRDS AND SPRING BLOSSOMS EXPLAINED BY THE GUIDE

  • WITH THE HELP OF COLOR PHOTOS OF THE ORIGINALS.

  • ONE MURAL DETAILS A GREAT SEA BATTLE.

  • THESE YOUNG BOXERS EVIDENTLY SHAVED THEIR HEADS

  • AND SPORTED LONG LOCKS OF CURLS.

  • Guide: IT SEEMS THAT SHAVED HEADS WAS AN INDICATION OF YOUTH.

  • YOUNG PEOPLE OF BOTH SEXES -- THEY USED TO HAVE THEM --

  • THAT HAIRCUT.

  • AND THE FISHING MUST HAVE BEEN PRETTY GOOD.

  • Guide: HE'S NAKED.

  • HE'S A FISHERMAN CARRYING HIS FISH.

  • THEY LOOK TO BE TUNA FISH.

  • SOME BELIEVE THIS MAY HAVE BEEN

  • THE LOST CIVILIZATION OF ATLANTIS.

  • AND MANY FIGURE IT WAS A TIDAL WAVE CREATED BY THIS ERUPTION

  • THAT SWEPT AWAY THE MINOAN CIVILIZATION

  • ON THE ISLAND OF CRETE, JUST 75 MILES SOUTH OF HERE.

  • PROBABLY THE TIDAL WAVE DISRUPTED THEIR MERCHANT FLEET

  • AND WITH IT THE MINOAN ECONOMY.

  • CARBON DATING SHOWS THE MINOANS SURVIVED THE TIDAL WAVE,

  • BUT STEADILY DECLINED

  • OVER THE NEXT SEVERAL CENTURIES.

  • SINCE ARCHEOLOGISTS FOUND NO BONES AND NO JEWELRY,

  • THEY FIGURED THAT THE INHABITANTS OF AKROTIRI

  • EXPECTED THE VOLCANIC ERUPTION

  • AND FLED THE ISLAND BEFORE IT BLEW.

  • THE ASH- AND MUD-COVERED REMAINS

  • OF A ONCE BUSY COMMUNITY ARE ALL THAT'S LEFT.

  • OUR LAST STOP IS THE BEACH.

  • A REMINDER OF ITS VOLCANIC PAST,

  • SANTORINI HAS A GREAT BLACK-SAND BEACH.

  • ONE OF THE BEST SWIMMING SPOTS ON THE ISLAND.

  • YOU CAN GET GOOD SWIMMING AND SUNBATHING

  • ON THE GREEK ISLES THROUGH OCTOBER.

  • THAT GIVES US ABOUT... SEVEN MORE WEEKS.

  • BUT WE WON'T SPEND IT ALL HERE.

  • TEMPTING AS IT MIGHT BE TO BECOME A RUNAWAY BEACH BUM,

  • WE'VE GOT OTHER FISH TO FRY AND OTHER ISLANDS TO HOP.

  • TOURIST MONEY KEEPS THE GREEK ISLANDS AFLOAT.

  • GREEK ISLAND TRAVEL AGENCIES

  • ARE EAGER TO HELP YOU WITH TOURS, MOPED RENTALS,

  • BOAT TICKETS, AND FLIGHTS.

  • WE NEED TO LINE UP OUR BOAT RIDE TO SAMOS.

  • SINCE THERE ARE MANY COMPETING BOAT COMPANIES,

  • AGENCIES SELLING ONE LINE CAN'T GIVE US ALL OUR OPTIONS.

  • FOR ALL THE INFORMATION UNDER ONE ROOF,

  • WE'RE GOING TO THE PORT AUTHORITY.

  • THE MAN IN THE PORT OFFICE HAS ALL THE SCHEDULES --

  • THAT'S HIS JOB.

  • HE TELLS ME THE BEST BOAT FOR US LEAVES TOMORROW AT 4:00.

  • ...AT 4:00 BECAUSE THERE ARE MANY...

  • HELLO.

  • TOMORROW I'D LIKE TO BUY A TICKET

  • FROM SANTORINI TO PAROS TO SAMOS.

  • AND I THINK WE WANT TO LEAVE AT 4:00

  • IN THE AFTERNOON.

  • OKAY!

  • OUR TRAVEL CHORES ARE FINISHED; NOW WE CAN RELAX.

  • ON SANTORINI, ITINERARIES ARE TOSSED INTO THE SEA

  • AND COUPLES HAVE ONLY ONE APPOINTMENT TO KEEP:

  • THE SUN'S DAILY REMINDER THAT THE GREEK ISLANDS

  • ARE A PLACE FOR ROMANCE.

  • YOUR EXPERIENCE IN GREECE IS SHAPED BY WHEN YOU VISIT.

  • [ bell clanging ]

  • BEER TIME.

  • SUMMER BREAK IS ONE LONG COLLEGE PARTY:

  • CROWDED, EXPENSIVE AND HOT.

  • A CRUISE TODAY CUTS THROUGH THE SAME WATERS

  • THAT GREAT GALLEYS PATROLLED DURING GREECE'S GOLDEN AGE.

  • IN THE 5th CENTURY B.C.,

  • ATHENS EXPANDED ITS CONTROL THROUGHOUT THE AEGEAN,

  • UNITING CITIES AND ISLANDS INTO THE SHORT-LIVED DELIAN LEAGUE.

  • AT ITS PEAK, 300 WARSHIPS, MANNED BY 60,000 OARSMEN

  • PLIED THESE WATERS, TAKING SLAVES, AND COLLECTING TAXES

  • THROUGHOUT THE ISLAND-DOTTED AEGEAN.

  • SINCE THERE'S NO DIRECT CONNECTION

  • FROM SANTORINI TO SAMOS,

  • WE'RE SAILING FROM SANTORINI TO PAROS,

  • A HUB IN THE GREEK ISLAND FERRY SYSTEM,

  • AND CONNECTING TO SAMOS.

  • FROM SAMOS WE'LL SIDE-TRIP TO THE TINY ISLAND OF LIPSI,

  • WHICH DOESN'T EVEN SHOW ON MOST MAPS.

  • ANY TIME OF YEAR, ISLAND-HOPPING IS EASIEST

  • IF YOU STICK TO A SERIES OF ISLANDS

  • SERVED DAILY FROM ATHENS.

  • GOING AGAINST THE FLOW --

  • LIKE CONNECTING SANTORINI AND SAMOS --

  • CAN CAUSE NEEDLESS FRUSTRATIONS.

  • WE HAVE A FEW HOURS TO KILL HERE ON PAROS

  • BEFORE CATCHING OUR NIGHT BOAT TO SAMOS.

  • IT'S MORNING AND WE'VE ARRIVED ON SAMOS,

  • ONE OF THE LARGER GREEK ISLANDS.

  • BY AEGEAN STANDARDS, IT'S LUSH, HISTORIC, AND NOT TOO TOURISTY.

  • THE ISLAND IS A SHORT HOP TO THE TURKISH MAINLAND.

  • SAMOS TOWN, THE MAIN CITY, IS EASY.

  • SEVERAL DECENT HOTELS LINE THE HARBOR FRONT.

  • FROM HERE IT'S EASY TO PLAN

  • A VARIETY OF ISLAND EXCURSIONS AND ACTIVITIES.

  • AND A PUBLIC PHONE

  • MAKES IT EASY TO TAKE CARE OF SOME TRAVEL DETAILS.

  • OFTENTIMES, A PAY PHONE IS MORE CONVENIENT

  • THAN RENTING OR BUYING A CELL PHONE WHILE IN EUROPE.

  • AND LIKE THE REST OF THE CONTINENT,

  • GREECE HAS PHASED OUT COIN-OPERATED TELEPHONES

  • IN FAVOR OF VANDAL-RESISTANT CARD-OPERATED BOOTHS.

  • THESE CARDS HAVE NOTHING TO DO

  • WITH THE VARIOUS AMERICAN PHONE CARDS.

  • YOU BUY THESE LOCALLY, USUALLY AT A KIOSK OR THE POST OFFICE.

  • SMART TRAVELERS DO LOTS OF CHORES BY TELEPHONE.

  • ALL RIGHT, THE TEMPLE OF HERA'S OPEN UNTIL 3:00.

  • AND WITH A PHONE CALL,

  • WE LINED UP OUR TRANSPORTATION FOR TODAY: MOPEDS.

  • IF YOU CAN RIDE, THIS IS A CHEAP AND BREEZY --

  • IF A BIT DANGEROUS -- WAY TO EXPLORE SAMOS.

  • YOU'LL FIND MOPEDS FOR RENT ON NEARLY EVERY GREEK ISLAND.

  • MY WIFE AND I USUALLY SHARE ONE,

  • BUT WITH THESE GUTLESS WONDERS,

  • OUR PRODUCER JOHN AND I EACH GOT ONE.

  • WE'LL BE CHECKING A MONASTERY...

  • AN ANCIENT TEMPLE...

  • AND A GREAT BEACH TOWN, BEFORE RETURNING TO SAMOS TOWN.

  • THAT'S ABOUT 25 MILES.

  • WITH A MOPED WE CAN GET A FEEL FOR LIFE OUTSIDE THE TOWN.

  • THESE MOPEDS ARE LIKE BIKES WITH A MOTOR.

  • THEY SEEM SIMPLE, BUT TAKE IT EASY --

  • TRAVELERS TAKE A LOT OF SPILLS.

  • HELMETS AREN'T REQUIRED IN THIS COUNTRY.

  • THEY'RE NOT EVEN AVAILABLE.

  • SO WE'RE BEING EXTRA CAREFUL ON THESE BIKES.

  • BY THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, THIS TINY FAMILY CHAPEL

  • REMINDS US HOW RELIGION PERMEATES THE CREEK CULTURE.

  • IN THE GREEK ORTHODOX RELIGION, ALL MEMBERS OF THE CHURCH --

  • LAYMEN, PRIESTS, BISHOPS -- ARE CONSIDERED EQUAL IN IMPORTANCE.

  • THE FAMILY CHAPEL IS A SANCTUARY

  • WHERE GOD'S LOVE OF MAN AND MAN'S LOVE OF GOD

  • CAN BE EXPRESSED ON A DAILY BASIS.

  • AS YOU RIDE,

  • YOU'LL NOTICE YOUR MAP LISTS AS MANY MONASTERIES AS TOWNS --

  • LIKE THE SPILIANI MONASTERY, WHICH WELCOMES GUESTS.

  • THE ORIGINAL MONASTERY, IN A CAVE AT THIS SITE,

  • DATES TO THE 11th CENTURY.

  • [ monks chanting ]

  • THE CAVE IS COOL AND QUIET,

  • REFRESHING AFTER THE HOT AND NOISY ROAD.

  • LIFE IN A GREEK ORTHODOX MONASTERY

  • IS SIMPLE AND ASCETIC.

  • THE MONKS ARE MOSTLY LAYMEN, NOT CLERICS,

  • WHO DEVOTE THEMSELVES TO MEDITATION AND PRAYER

  • TO ACHIEVE A UNION WITH CHRIST.

  • [ chanting continues ]

  • MONASTERIES DOT THE ISLAND LANDSCAPES.

  • IN A CAVE MUCH LIKE THIS ONE, ON THE NEXT ISLAND, PATMOS,

  • THE EVANGELIST JOHN WROTE THE BOOK OF REVELATIONS,

  • THE LAST BOOK IN THE BIBLE.

  • BELOW THE MONASTERY LIES THE TOWN OF PYTHAGORIO,

  • WHICH SITS ON TOP OF THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF THE ISLAND.

  • THIS WAS CALLED TIGANI UNTIL 1956, WHEN THE NAME WAS CHANGED

  • TO HONOR THE ISLAND'S MOST FAMOUS SON:

  • THE PRE-SOCRATIC PHILOSOPHER PYTHAGORAS.

  • [ calls greeting ]

  • BEST REMEMBERED TODAY FOR HIS CONTRIBUTION TO MATHEMATICS,

  • HIS DISCIPLES SPREAD BELIEFS

  • THAT ALSO TREATED SLAVES HUMANELY,

  • THE SEXES AS EQUAL,

  • AND ANIMALS WITH RESPECT.

  • [ meows ]

  • SAMOS WAS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ISLANDS

  • IN THE ANCIENT WORLD, A CENTER OF LEARNING.

  • BUT ONLY A FEW REMNANTS OF PAST GREATNESS REMAIN.

  • OUTSIDE OF PYTHAGORIO IS THE TEMPLE OF HERA.

  • NOT MUCH IS LEFT.

  • ORIGINALLY A LARGE TEMPLE WITH TWO ROWS OF COLUMNS,

  • 133 IN ALL, ONLY ONE STILL STANDS.

  • EARLY GREEKS BELIEVED THAT HERA,

  • QUEEN OF THE GODS AND WIFE AND SISTER TO ZEUS,

  • WAS BORN NEAR HERE.

  • TWICE A YEAR IN ANCIENT TIMES,

  • LARGE NUMBERS OF CELEBRANTS CAME FROM THE SEA

  • BY THE SACRED WAY, PASSING HUGE STATUES,

  • AS THEY CAME TO WORSHIP THE POWERFUL GODDESS.

  • ON TO THE BEACH!

  • THE TOWN OF KOKKARI IS IDEAL FOR TWO SADDLE-SORE EASY RIDERS

  • OR ANY WEARY TRAVELER.

  • THIS LAID-BACK BEACH ALMOST REQUIRES RELAXATION.

  • [ waves hissing ]

  • THE TOWN IS A GREAT PLACE TO SETTLE IN: PLENTY OF dhomatio,

  • THAT'S GREEK FOR BED AND BREAKFAST,

  • THE BEST SKIPPING ROCKS I'VE SEEN IN AGES,

  • AND NO SHORTAGE OF FISHERMAN WHO'VE GRADUATED

  • FROM MENDING NETS TO FLIPPING WORRY BEADS.

  • WHAT A FINE PLACE TO END OUR EXPLORATION OF SAMOS.

  • DAWN AND WE'RE REALLY HEADING OFF THE BEATEN PATH.

  • WE'RE ON A HYDROFOIL TO LIPSI.

  • LATELY, HYDROFOILS ARE OFFERING A SPEEDY ALTERNATIVE

  • FOR ISLAND HOPPING.

  • THEY'RE HALF AS RELAXING, TWICE AS FAST, AND DOUBLE THE COST.

  • WHEN IT COMES TO FINDING A UN-TOURISTY ISLAND,

  • THE TRICK IS TO FIND ONE JUST BIG ENOUGH

  • TO HAVE REGULAR BOAT SERVICE,

  • BUT NOT BIG ENOUGH TO HAVE A PROMOTIONAL BUDGET.

  • LIPSI FILLS THE BILL.

  • MOST VISITORS DON'T SPEND THE NIGHT,

  • BUT LIPSI HAS JUST ENOUGH COMMERCE

  • TO KEEP US FED AND WATERED.

  • AND THERE'S OUR ISLAND HOME.

  • HELLO.

  • HELLO.

  • Kalimera.

  • [ laughs ]

  • GOOD TO SEE YOU.

  • HELLO. HOW ARE YOU?

  • MY BEST GREEK MEMORIES ARE IN TOWNS WITH NO HOTELS.

  • NO HOTELS?

  • THAT'S OKAY.

  • WE'RE STAYING IN AN EXTRA ROOM AT ANNA'S HOUSE,

  • SORT OF A GREEK B&B.

  • THIS dhomatio IS SIMPLE, CHEAP, AND VERY REAL.

  • [ lively folk music plays ]

  • ENTREPRENEURIAL ENTERPRISE REACHES EVEN THE SMALL ISLANDS.

  • DAY-TRIPPERS FROM A TOUR BOAT BRING OUT THE LOCAL DANCERS.

  • IN A PLACE LIKE LIPSI, YOU WON'T FIND A MENU.

  • THIS IS A FUN OPPORTUNITY

  • TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE FRIENDLY GREEK TRADITION

  • OF WELCOMING CUSTOMERS INTO THE KITCHEN

  • TO SEE WHAT'S COOKING.

  • HAVE SOME FUN.

  • SAMPLE WHAT YOU LIKE.

  • ORDERING THIS WAY, YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT YOU'RE GETTING.

  • TSATZIKI IS A REFRESHING CUCUMBER, GARLIC, YOGURT DIP

  • FOR YOUR BREAD.

  • THIS COULD BE A MEAL IN ITSELF.

  • BUT WITH SO MUCH LOOKING SO GOOD,

  • LET'S CALL THAT AN APPETIZER.

  • GREEK COOKING HAS CHANGED LITTLE SINCE THE TIME OF PLATO,

  • WHO GRAVELY DISCUSSED SUCH QUESTIONS AS

  • WHAT KINDS OF FISH SHOULD BE BAKED AND WHAT KINDS BOILED.

  • OTHER CLASSICAL WRITERS DESCRIBE THE ADDITION OF HERBS,

  • LIKE OREGANO, BASIL, DILL, AND MINT,

  • TO LAMB AND VEGETABLE DISHES STILL POPULAR TODAY.

  • AND THEN AS NOW,

  • A MEAL WAS A SOCIAL OCCASION --

  • EATING ALONE ONLY TO BE TOLERATED

  • IF NO OTHER OPTION EXISTED.

  • RESIDENTS LIKE TO RELAX ON THE SMALL, PRIVATE TOWN SQUARE.

  • YOU'LL FIND A SLEEPY TAVERNA AND A LOCAL PARTNER

  • READY AND WILLING TO PLAY YOU A GAME OF BACKGAMMON:

  • THE NATIONAL PASTIME.

  • [ Rick groans ]

  • LIPSI'S MORE REMOTE BEACHES ARE AN HOUR'S HIKE AWAY.

  • NORMALLY, THESE PICK-UPS ARE HAPPY TO BE YOUR TAXI.

  • LOCAL LEGEND HAS IT THAT THIS ISLAND IS WHERE CALYPSO

  • HELD ODYSSEUS AS A LOVE CAPTIVE FOR SEVEN YEARS.

  • HMMM.

  • I SUPPOSE THESE ROMANTIC BEACHES

  • ESTABLISH THE RIGHT ATMOSPHERE FOR THE LEGEND.

  • THIS IS PURE GREEK PARADISE.

  • WELL, WE'VE SEEN A LOT OF THE GREEK ISLES.

  • FROM THE ROMANTIC WHITE-WASHED VILLAGES OF SANTORINI,

  • TO THE SLEEPY FISHING VILLAGES OF SAMOS,

  • TO THESE REMOTE BEACHES OF LIPSI,

  • AND WITH SOME OF THE MOST RELAXING CRUISING IN BETWEEN,

  • WE'VE SEEN SOME OF THE TRUE JEWELS OF THE AEGEAN SEA.

  • I'M RICK STEVES AND THIS IS HAPPY TRAVELS.

HI, I'M RICK STEVES.

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ギリシャしょとう (Greek Islands)

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    Jane に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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