array of cultural treats - and it's more than just great food.

This is the Land of the Basque people.

The land of the Basque people is one of Europe's "nations without a state." Its territory is

split between France and Spain. With a stubborn spirit and an industrious nature, the Basques

celebrate their rich heritage while embracing the future.

We'll enjoy the classic Basque experiences in the classic Basque places - sunny beaches,

spectacular modern architecture, tasty tapas, charming villages, venerable men's clubs,

a dramatic coastline, and a lightning-fast sport.

When they drew the national borders of Europe, the Basque nation was left out. While you

won't see this country on standard Europe maps, Basque people define their land like

this, bounded by the Pyrenees Mountains and the Atlantic coast. We start in San Sebastián,

tour Guernica and Bilbao, and finish in the French part of Basque Country, visiting Bayonne

and St-Jean-de-Luz.

The independent-minded Basques are notorious for being headstrong. But, as a culturally

and linguistically unique land surrounded by bigger and stronger nations, the Basques

have learned to compromise while maintaining their identity.

Much unites the Spanish and French Basque regions: They share a striking Atlantic coastline

with communities reaching far into the Pyrenees. They have the same flag, similar folk music

and dance, and a common language, spoken by about half-a-million people. And both, after

some struggles, have been integrated by their respective nations. The French Revolution

quelled French Basque ideas of independence. And in the 20th century, Spain's General Franco

attempted to tame his own separatist-minded Basques.

But in the last generation, things are improving. The long-suppressed Basque language is enjoying

a resurgence. And, because the European Union is interested in helping small ethnic regions

as well as big countries, the Basques are enjoying more autonomy.

So, just who are the Basques? Sure, you can still find a few beret-capped shepherds that

fit the traditional cliché. But the vast majority of Basques are modern and relatively

prosperous city dwellers. Widespread Spanish and French immigration has made it difficult

to know who actually has Basque ethnic roots. Locals consider anyone who speaks the Basque

language to be Basque.

If you know where to look, Basque customs are strong and lively...perhaps nowhere moreso

than in one of their favorite sports, called jai alai. Players use a long wicker basket

to whip a ball, smaller and far harder than a baseball, off walls at more than 150 miles

per hour.

For less adrenalin but just as much Basque culture, there's the institution of the men's

gastronomic club. These clubs are common throughout Basque Country and range from the more working

class communal kitchen type of place to the fairly highbrow more exclusive version with

extensive wine cellars, and gastronomic libraries.

The clubs serve several functions: Traditionally, Basque society is matrilineal - women run

the show at home. These provide a men's night out. It's also a place where friends who've

known each other since grade school can enjoy quality time together, speaking Basque, and

savoring traditional ways in an ever faster world. And, it's a place where men cook together

and celebrate the famed Basque culinary traditions.

While much of Basque region is in France, most of the land, industry, and people are

in Spain. And many consider Spanish Basque culture to be feistier and more colorful than

that of the more integrated French Basques.

The leading tourist destination in Spain's Basque Country is San Sebastián. Shimmering

above its breathtaking bay, elegant and prosperous San Sebastián - or Donostia as locals call

their town - is your best home base for exploring Basque Country.

With its romantic setting on the sea, lively Old Town, and its soaring statue of Christ

gazing over the city, San Sebastián has a mini-Rio de Janeiro aura.

Its shell-shaped Playa de la Concha, the pride of San Sebastián, boasts one of Europe's

loveliest stretches of sand. While sunbathers pack its shores in the summer, the elegant

promenade is pleasantly devoid of commercialism.

For a century, the promenade's wrought-iron balustrade has been a symbol of the city;

it shows up on everything, from headboards to jewelry.

In the 1840s, Spain's Queen Isabel II was a regular here on the beach. Her doctors recommended

she treat her skin problems by bathing here in the sea. Spain's aristocracy took note,

and soon San Sebastián was on the map as a seaside resort.

By the turn of the 20th century, San Sebastián was the toast of the belle époque, and a

leading resort for Europe's beautiful people. Hotels, theaters, and casinos flourished.

Even the anti-Basque dictator of Spain, Franco, enjoyed 35 summers here in a place he was

sure to call not "Donostia," but "San Sebastián."

Huddled under its once-protective hill, is the Old Town. This is where San Sebastián

was born about a thousand years ago. Its port, while sleepy today, has long hosted the town's

hard-working fishing boats. Because the town was almost entirely rebuilt after an 1813

fire, its architecture is generally Neoclassical and uniform. Still, the grid plan of streets

hides surprises: ornate Baroque and Gothic churches, delightful plazas, and shops offering

fascinating insights into this culture.

Local guide Itsaso Petrikorena is joining me so my window shopping will take on some

meaning, such as the importance of salted cod.

Itsaso: This shop is all about cod. It's very, very important for the Basque culture. Salted

cod has been part of our culture, economy, and daily food. Historically, sailors used

to have it in their boats. Now it's a very, very big part of our cultural heritage as

well as our gastronomy. Rick: What is the word in Basque?

Itsaso: Bakailu. Rick: Like Spanish, bacalao.

Itsaso: Bakailu. Rick: And what is the recipe?

Itsaso: The recipe, you have to soak it in water for 48 hours.

Rick: So I can't just take it now and eat it.

Itsaso: No, I'm afraid not. Rick: Have to wait.

But there are plenty of taste treats you can eat right now. Shops show how, with the fertile

land, Basque cuisine is rich and varied.

Itsaso: You are going to love this. Rick: Why?

Itsaso: The cheese, idiazabal cheese, mixing with walnuts and apple jelly. Altogether.

Rick: Altogether? Itsaso: Beautiful flavor.

Rick: Let's have some. The three things together here?

Itsaso: Yes. A piece of these. Some walnuts. And we finish with some sweet, in this case

is apple jam. Rick: So it's sheep cheese from the mountains,

walnuts, and... Itsaso: Apple jam.

Rick: Altogether? Itsaso: It's a good combination. This is a

very traditional dessert here in the Basque land.

Rick: You have the salty and the sweet and the Basque cheese. How do you say "delicious"

in Basque? Itsaso: Oso ona.

Rick: Oso ona. Mmm, that's very good.

Rick: So tell me about this marijuana store. Itsaso: Well, in Spain, it is illegal to sell

it, but you can grow it at home, but only for your own personal use.

Rick: Okay, so this shop would sell seeds and tools to help you grow at home.

Itsaso: Yes.

As is the case in more and more countries, low key shops cater to the needs of locals

who enjoy marijuana legally by growing it at home. If this variety of plant appeals,

just ask for the proper seeds...and some grow lamps... maybe a handbook for this new niche

in the gardening market... and then perhaps get the latest on just the right liquid fertilizer.

The Old Town's main square, lined with inviting café tables today, is where bullfights used

to be held. Balconies still sport their seat numbers. Above it all the seal of San Sebastián

shows a merchant ship - a reminder of the Basque Country's rich seafaring heritage.

Itsaso: People say the best food in Spain is in the Basque Country, and from the Basque

Country, the best food is here in San Sebastián. Let's go in. Let's go!

Rick: I can hardly wait!

San Sebastián is famous for its many bars offering a dazzling array of tapas. They're

called pintxos in Basque. Basically, you belly up to the bar, point to what you like, and

munch away.

Rick: Txangurro caliente. Bar server: Caliente.

Zurito is a small beer in Basque. Don't worry, they'll keep track of what you eat and drink.

It's rude to put dirty napkins on the counter; they belong on the floor. No matter how much

you like a place, save room for the next bar. You want to be mobile...that's part of the

fun.

Itsaso: San Sebastián, we have so many bars that I cannot even count them. We go bar hopping

and every bar has its own specialty. Rick: Its famous little treat.

Itsaso: Yes. Rick: Oh, good.

This bar is loved for its txangurro - that's spider crab - and its mushrooms. This one's

a town favorite for shrimp. And they all serve txakoli - fresh white wine. Poured from high

to aerate it, which adds sparkle, it's good with seafood and, therefore, pairs well with

Basque cuisine.

Bars display their pintxos mid-day and again in the early evening. And keep your eye out

for bars with empty counters. The best tapas are often not the ones on display but the

hot ones advertised on blackboards and cooked to order.

The specialty here: melt-in-your-mouth beef cheeks in a red wine sauce, pulpo (or octopus),

and foie gras - grilled goose liver with apple sauce. Tasty delights - all coming out of

a tiny kitchen.

Wandering the streets, you see there's a political edge to the graffiti. This poster shows Basque

separatists doing time in Spanish prisons for violent activities.

Rick: So, tell me about the separatist group, the ETA.

Itsaso: I'm proud to be Basque. However, we have three different mentalities. The first

ones, ones that are very proud to be Spaniards or French citizenships.

Rick: So, Basque people content to be Spanish citizens or French citizens.

Itsaso: Some of them. People who want independence without violence.

Rick: So, the peaceful ones that want independence. Itsaso: Yes, and the ones that are fighting

for independence. Rick: Okay, so, people who are willing to

fight to make an independent, free Basque state.

Itsaso: Yes. Rick: And that group is the group supported

by the ETA. Itsaso: Yes, exactly.

Certain pubs have separatist sympathies. You'll know by the photos of prisoners and political

murals on the walls. While the struggle for Basque independence is in a relatively calm

stage, with the vast majority opposing violent tactics, there are still underlying tensions

between Spain and those among the Basques who aspire to more autonomy.

Traveling on, we enjoy pastoral scenes along a rugged coastline. Overlooking the Bay of

Biscay the countryside here is green and lush.

An hour's drive takes us to Guernica. The market town of Guernica has a workaday feel

- typical of this region, which is one of Spain's most industrial.

Visiting its stately parliament building you sense the importance of this town to Basque

culture. Historically, leaders would gather in the shade of an old oak tree. And this

new oak tree - supposedly a descendant of the original one - reminds the Basque people

of their unique clan traditions.

In the adjacent assembly chamber, historic portraits of Basque lords surround today's

representatives. And high above, a medieval lord swears allegiance to the almost sacred

book of Basque laws.

In the next room, a stained glass ceiling causes Basque hearts to stir. A sage leader

standing under that venerated oak tree holds the "Old Law," which provided structure to

Basque society for centuries. Around him are groups representing the traditional Basque

livelihoods: sailors and fishermen, miners and steelworkers, and farmers. And it's all

set in a classic Basque landscape.

While it does have deep-cultural roots, most people know Guernica for a horrific event

in the years leading up to World War II.

Guernica was bombed flat in 1937. Because it was long the symbolic heart of Basque separatism,

the city was a natural target for the dictator Franco in the Spanish Civil War. His ally,

Hitler, wanted a chance to try out his latest technology in aerial bombardment. The result:

the infamous bombing raid that Picasso immortalized in his epic work, Guernica.

Picasso's mural, considered by many to be the greatest antiwar work of art ever, tells

the story. It was market day. The town was filled with farmers from the countryside.

First, a single German warplane bombed bridges and roads leading out of the town. Then, more

planes arrived. Three hours of relentless saturation bombing followed. People running

through the streets were strafed with machine-gun fire. By sunset, the planes had left, leaving

thousands of casualties and Guernica in rubble.

Nearby, the city of Bilbao has recently been transformed from a gritty steel town to a

happening cultural center like no other Spanish city. Entire sectors of the industrial city's

long-depressed port have been cleared away to allow for new construction. This bridge

is part of what's now a delightfully people-friendly riverfront.

Bilbao's Old Town is well worth a stroll. You'll find tall buildings and narrow lanes

lined with thriving shops and tapas bars.

A modern light -ail line conveniently laces the Old Town with points along the river to

the sight which spearheaded Bilbao's urban renaissance: the Guggenheim Museum.

While its art collection is impressive, it's the building - designed by Frank Gehry and

opened in 1997 - that's created a stir in the world of architecture and put Bilbao on

the traveler's map.

Gehry's groundbreaking design helped set a new standard for architecture. Using cutting-edge

technologies, unusual materials, and daring forms, he created a piece of architectural

sculpture that smoothly integrates with its environment. With the bridges, pedestrian

promenade, and art all complementing the building, it's an engaging ensemble.

Gehry was inspired by a variety of visions. For instance, to him, the building's multiple

forms jostle like a loose crate of bottles.

Guarding the main entrance is Jeff Koons' towering West Highland Terrier - made of 60,000