You want to take any from hobby headquarters today, we're gonna be building the 1 35th scale to Mia Matilda, three slash floor.

This kid came out about 67 years ago, so it's a relatively new kid, all state of the art molding.

Really, really nice Actually built this kid up when it first came out and really enjoyed building this unusual paint scheme with blue and tan and green.

Just something a little bit different.

So I thought I would do a video showing you guys how this would go together, So let's get started on it.

Matilde, too, was an excellent cutting edge tank for its time at the beginning of World War Two at a very thick armor.

In fact, the frontal armor, as well as the turkey roll cast and were very, very thick and were designed to defeat any 37 millimeter anti tank round.

The German army in North Africa was forced to use its 88 millimeter flak guns horizontally to knock out Matilda's that range.

Hitler, having read reports of this, began to get involved in tank production and as a direct result, the Tiger one was conceived Matilde, too, was an infantry drink and therefore relatively slow.

Only about 15 miles an hour.

It carried a two pounder high velocity gun, which is about 40 millimeters and was effective and stopping anything the Germans had up to 1941.

The British produced about 3000 total units.

Because of the intricacy of the lower hall to me has provided multiple parts to make up this piece.

But rest assured, the parts fit together easily and very, very tightly.

Yeah.

Uh huh.

Thank you.

As I start Thio cut the road wheels out off this kid.

Uh, it is a early war British tank, So there are going to be quite a few road wheels to have to assemble.

In fact, there's ah, 20 total of these plus thes and the return of the drives.

Brockett has a poly cap in it, as well as a return.

Idler, also to me gives you two types of tracks included in this kit Lincoln length, which actually looked pretty nice because they're not super super detailed in real life.

And then they also have a set of rubber bands, which I haven't really decided.

Which one will use next on this kit.

The rubber bands actually don't look too bad, but we'll play it by ear.

Well, I might just assemble these up and see how they look once they get on their plate like that.

So I'm gonna take the time and cut out all these and gloom together.

It's just a A and B type wheel, so nothing difficult at all on it.

And then I'll start showing you how the suspension goes together.

I'm gonna take the next couple of minutes to show you guys the four different types of suspension that are going to making this kit.

Some of it is little intricate and would probably be easy if I had a extra pair of hands.

As we start building some of the suspension, too, it's saying not to glue the wheels down.

The actual wheel itself is you want the wheel to spin, which, honestly, if we're gonna put Lincoln Link tracks on it really doesn't make any sense to do that, because that point we don't need the wheel to spend anyway, So it it's gonna make it a heck of a lot easier to glue these, uh, these subassemblies together by actually putting a little glue on the wheel.

And I don't plan on role in this around on the floor anything anyway.

So we're gonna just glue all that down.

Now.

This particular one is one free to this side.

And then there's a main bogie suspension piece that you glue multiples together.

You have to actually go four total.

So we'll put this one together, snaps right in there and then I'll show you.

The big one here is well, which once again, like I said, we're gonna put the glue on the wheel is the touch.

Because if you don't, the wheels start popping off, especially when you have four of them like this.

It's that tiny bit of he's in, really helps out.

Then once you get all the suspension parts built that I have here and all will go together pretty, pretty straightforward sometimes when these movable parts could get a little bit tricky to hold on to both sides.

But there we go.

Try to put a little bit extra glue in these areas just so that you have a really good contact.

That way, you don't worry about when you're putting tracks on or anything later on that you're gonna accidentally put too much stress on it and break the track piece for break one of the suspension arms off on it.

Now, you know, I like to build really fast, but this is one time I'm going to let this suspension really dry for a long time and when I could do anything else on this for a while And that's the main point because there's such a small connection points all over this.

We don't want any of the suspension to get all crooked or crazy on it.

So we're gonna let this drive for a couple hours and come back and didn't do this.

Side panels that fit over the top.

We now switch over to the top of the hole.

And to me, it has made it so that the front hatch here is completely workable.

So you just have to be a little careful in making sure not to get glue on that portion of it.

Just on the besides right there.

Drop that in the place.

And if we glued it properly, Yeah, this part right here.

Walk right up.

Just slide.

We'll probably leave it in the same position, but it's kind of cool, but they do it that way now.

Also, While we've got the top of the hole, we have to use our drill bit.

And there's a bunch of little holes for some of the accessories that go on that we need to drill out right now as well.

Now we're going to start assembling the upper part of the whole.

Ah, now there are a bunch of these little louvers in here that air actually very specific toe where each one of them goes.

So before you just pull him off and start sanding them, which I almost did.

I noticed that on there.

And I just lined him up from 35 to 40 the way they should go on that way, When we go to put him on the kid here, you'll know which one goes where, and you shouldn't confuse him.

Now a few of them are the bigger ones, which are pretty obvious where they go.

But this way, you won't make any mistakes going forward.

Going something on that doesn't belong in certain area messing you up.

So we'll go the rest of those on and then this will just blew right in this place, right here on the back.

Moreover like that.

And then there's a couple of little lights that will put on a front here as well.

You know, let me show you what I've done so far.

I went ahead and glued up the rubber band tracks and just temporarily placed them in there.

Now, this has got Polly caps attaching top and bottom so you can easily separate this and pull this part if we decided to put the other tracks on.

So now what we're gonna do is work on the exhaust system in the back of this vehicle, and I've gone ahead and actually finished up some of the little assemblies back here.

Extra glue.

Make sure that doesn't come out and then carefully have to get this exhaust pipe back there.

So I think it'll fit.

Okay, carefully.

You gotta get in the line up inside here as well.

There it goes.

And you don't wanna let cement set up too much on that other pipe.

Just with one reason that you wanna have a little flexibility in it.

So it'll make sure in line up with this piece, so snap that and actually see that little area right there fit very, very well.

We'll put a little cement on that and might have to put a tiny bit of party on it, but it would just squeeze that right in together.

But if it really, really well, so I'm gonna go and do the other side, and then I'll show you the next set of the fuel tank.

And that part went together very, very easily, just like the 1st 1 No problems with fit at all.

I'm always going attach this piece back here first, and then we're gonna go ahead and attach these brackets.

You really want to be careful that you put these in the right way?

Because if you don't, it's going to be upside down and you'll never get it in the look.

Right.

So you had a little tiny Well, let's go up on top.

And then I've been working on this piece right here, sanding it, getting it ready.

I'll probably have to do a little bit more on, but you'll see how this will just drop right into place right here on the back, on the exhaust in the extra fuel tank on the back.

We're all done here.

We are putting on the rest of the parts that go on for the side armor, these air, the actual little return rollers that go inside that will support the top of the track.

And once we've put that all together, this will slide right up inside here.

Now I'm debating about holding off.

I'm probably not gonna glue this right away until I do a little more research going forward.

I can't remember on when I built this kid the first time.

I do have to paint some kind of elaborate looking things which I do want this attached.

But the tracks are not able to come off now because with the exhaust system in the back, here is all put together from top to bottom.

So and I don't mind keeping the rubber bands on, but I want to make sure we're gonna be able to paint them properly.

Where is with this off?

I can still get those off, so I'm probably gonna hold off on putting this on to the very last.

We're gonna start construction on the turret now.

This is the mantle.

It and 40 millimeter gun they've all slide molded, so that makes it very nice glow on that.

They've also slide.

Molded the barrel for the machine gun, Niko, Actual one.

So we're gonna put some cement up in there on.

Of course, we also put Polly caps on.

And while that's setting up, drawing to it also requires that you have a drill bit and you're gonna need to drill out a bunch of different holes on the inside of this.

And that's for attaching equipment later on.

So you have all the holes ready to go, and when a good thing, I'm gonna put all the equipment on in this.

But it's a good thing.

Always look ahead in the instructions to find out.

Hey, I'm not gonna be putting that piece on and then you won't have to be filling up a whole later on, so we'll go ahead and put the rest of the turn together and move on to the next Step three.

Yeah, I finished up putting on all the little little parts all over the turret.

Ah, as you can see right here we left the main hatch open as well, too.

Now I did leave the side streets off.

We are gonna paint those separately.

It's I think it's just gonna be a little bit easier than painting up inside here, and we'll go ahead and glue those on at a later time just to kind of give you a once over on the thing.

We also left off most of the bigger tools because there'll be a little bit easier to paint outside the vehicle and then just go ma as well as the extra track up in front.

So I'm gonna go ahead and put a coat of NATO black on this for a shadow coat and completely do the entire vehicle.

Right now, I had a little change of plans.

I started analyzing how we had to put this piece on.

And then there was a long amount of glue seam across the top that I have forgotten about.

I thought there was only two little connection points, and that was gonna be quite a bit so I've gone ahead and started to glue this portion on I haven't attached.

It's super strong underneath of this way.

We could get our a little bit of a mass to kind of protect our tracks underneath there now.

The type of vehicle were painting is going to start from about here to about here is all gonna be the desert yellow.

So we'll go ahead and paint the desert yellow on the bottom and the little bit that goes on the turret right now.

Okay, here we have the general shape of where the Brown is going to go.

Now we're going to use our real thin line to me a tape to mask off the next blues.

So we're gonna start with Brown, then do the blue, and then the final layer will be the green and I'll use the to me a masking tape, the thin stuff because it's very low tack to do the line, and then we'll fill it back in with, like, regular blue masking tape.

So I'm gonna go in ask because I gotta hold it a lot.

So be hard to film, but I'll show you once I get it all massed up.

What it looks like now I've gone ahead in mast off all the serious.

This area right here is all gonna be the blue in here in this last little blue stripe in here is going to be remained brown.

That's why that's still in there.

And this is kind of just extra cover tape to protect the brown areas so they don't get any blue over spray on it.

Now, the way I'm painting this, like I was doing before, is we only have to worry about one hard line at a time.

So only worrying about the blue meets the brown right now.

The green is gonna cover up the next blue line, so this blues would be kind of like a jagged edge, and we're going to use to Mia's except 23 light blue.

This is what to me recommends for the blue color.

Uh, one of the little tip, too, is when you're going to paint something like this, especially because it's got a lot of recesses.

If you paint from this direction, you're gonna get blowback and blue paint underneath there.

But if you come from the top like this, you'll still get a straight line even inside all those nooks and crannies.

I'm gonna go ahead and put the layer of blue paint on right now, as well as the turret, which is sitting right over here and then the turret.

This is a lot more difficult to try to do.