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I'm kind of burning my hand.
Oh.
Even though it's a little early for fried chicken,
and not the kind of thing I'd expect to eat at
a funeral, it's pretty unbelievable.
The island nation of Taiwan is known for
its incredible food culture.
And Taiwan's outdoor banquets known as bando.
And one of the countries oldest food traditions.
Prepared by village chef Sidon Po Si who
specialize in cooking for hundreds of people at
a time, outdoor banquets can be a celebration of
any occasion, from weddings and
birthdays to festivals, elections and funerals.
Let's get some food.
I like stinky tofu.
This is pretty heavy on the stink.
If I think of eating at a funeral in Canada or
the states,
it's pretty much bland catering sandwiches and
soggy fruit plates that come to mind.
But it Taiwan,
they do things a little differently.
My friend, George, invited me to attend
his grandfather's funeral and eat at
the outdoor banquet prepared in his honor.
He had already been filming the lead up
to the funeral and hoped that our film could be
a record of his grandfather too.
Lin He Xiuju was the village chef in charge
of the funeral feast.
At 4 AM the morning of the funeral,
I joined her at the largest fish market in
northern Taiwan, where she threw down the cash
on sushi-grade salmon, shrimp and shellfish.
It's unusual for
a village chef to be a woman, but Xiuju,
who also runs a small restaurant,
was clearly on top of her game.
I wanna point out that the stack of seafood we
bought is taller than the woman cooking it.
When we arrived in George's hometown of
FomeS, it was cold, damp and rainy.
People were paying their respects to George's
grandfather, who had been a town council leader.
Why do you need to stand next to the coffin?
The relatives have to keep the deceased
company.
One person on either side.
Does someone have to be here all the time?
Yes, you can't leave the coffin alone.
They're cooking outside because it's
traditionally really important for all of this
funeral stuff to happen as close to the home as
possible and we're basically like ten steps
from where the family of the deceased lives.
The first order of business is preparing
food for
all of the people who have come early.
Their job is to make food for
people that will fill them up and
maybe make them feel a little bit better.
So, yeah.
It's food made with love.
In Taiwanese custom,
we eat a pig's head and tail at a funerals.
It symbolizes respect for your elders.
This is Sesame Oil Chicken,
a dish I made specially for the pallbearers.
For a coffin this size,
it's gonna take 16 to 20 men to carry it.
The young ones might hurt their back carrying it,
so they will eat this beforehand.
It's got chicken and pork in it.
You can't drive after eating this, though.
It's got lots of alcohol in it.
I sat down with the team of pallbearers who were
having lunch before getting to business.
There was a lot more food than I was expecting.
Yeah the chicken is super, super tender.
Its got a little tingly from the alcohol.
The broth is basically just like booze with
some chicken juices in it.
Like when you sip it,
kinda is like doing a weak shot almost.
There's basically like something for everyone.
You got the mayotte, which is the traditional
thing that you have to eat if your gonna
be preparing to carry the coffin.
But everything else is just like people like
to eat good food and some might like the pork
more some prefer to eat fish or other seafood.
They wanna make sure that no one goes hungry and
everyone's satisfied.
So this is the spread.
This is the kinda dish that I like.
The pork belly.
Me too.
A lot of these guys aren't young either and
they definitely need as much warmth and
energy as they can get before the hard
work that's about to come.
After eating all of this stuff,
carrying a coffin up a hill in the rain is not
necessarily the first thing that comes to mind.
All the while, the rest of the funeral guests
were tucking into lunch.
I sat down to eat with George when he returned.
Admittedly, he wasn't that hungry.
My grandfather specifically asked us to
make sure the funeral guests are well and
get plenty of food.
A lot of old people tend to pass away at
the end of winter between Chinese New Year and
the Mazu Festival.
So there are a lot of funeral feasts around
this time.
Mm.
The food tastes good, but it's also really sad.
Would you say the tradition is in decline?
It's frightening to think about.
These old village chefs don't have students to
pass their skills on to.
As people from the older generation pass away,
this tradition will eventually die out.
We don't want to see this happen, so
we'll try our best to keep the tradition alive.
Funeral feasts are a tradition of remembrance,
it brings families and neighbors together,
and creates a bond between us.
I wanted to learn more
about the origins of village chef cuisine,
so I traveled to its birthplace,
the small town of Niemen in southern Taiwan.
Hi, Mr. Lin.
Hi.
You look American.
I'm Canadian.
Oh, Canadian.
Liu Ruizhang has been a village chef for
more than 40 years.
He works with his wife and youngest son
catering outdoor banquets and serving local
specialties from the front of his apartment.
When I arrived Lin's son was preparing
the family's signature pork leg.
The flavor isn't quite there yet.
Yeah Oh I see.
It's still a bit salty right now.
Once we bring out the sweetness
of the the pork, it won't be as salty.
While the pork was cooking the elder
Lan showed me his take on sweet and sour fish.
I'll make some fish.
Just keep frying it til it gets golden brown.
Okay.
It's super crispy and they just put it back in
the wok for a second to kinda flash fry it again.
Then we add some seasoning: sour, sweet,
spicy.
A bit of garlic, onions, white pepper and vinegar.
Then some broth.
And finally, to make it sweet and
sour, we add a bit of sugar.
It's ready.
The flavor is pretty well-balanced.
Now we'll make a gravy.
Put it on slow heat.
Then a bit of ketchup.
To make it sour.
Let's pour it on top.
Here it is, Sweet and Sour Fish.
Sour, sweet, spicy, salty.
It's got everything.
Shall I bring it to the table?
Yes, we're gonna eat it.
Okay. Now drink with me!
Happy birthday.
Whose birthday is it?
Whenever a friend from faraway comes for
a visit, we say "happy birthday" to celebrate
Oh yeah.
It's a Taiwanese folk tradition.
Oh, I was still pretty full from the previous
day's funeral feasting but it wasn't hard to
convince myself to keep eating.
Why am I passing this to my son?
I pass it along to him so
that he can have the means to make a living.
Otherwise he might end up becoming a construction
worker or something,
he'd be lost in a different profession.
It's the same for you.
If I ask you to try a different profession,
you might not succeed.
Like father, like son.
He likes this profession so
I'm passing the torch to him.
I've been watching him cook since I was little.
My Dad cooks so well,
I should really learn from him.
I'll try my best to reach his level and
add my own interpretation into some dishes.
What's the difference between traditional
outdoor banquets and
a meal you'd get in a restaurant?
At a restaurant you have a lot
of frozen ingredients.
Here, everything is fresh.
Everything is prepared fresh at every step.
What do you think the culture of outdoor
banquets will become in the future?
They used to be a real sense of community in
Taiwan.
Oh.
When we used to have a neighborhood gathering,
everyone in the neighborhood would come
help out with the kitchen work.
You don't get that anymore.
Outdoor banquet culture is in decline not because
of the dishes or anything.
It's because we don't
have that sense of community anymore.
Even if the traditional role of the village
chef risks slowly fading away, interests in
the old-school culinary masters and
their outdoor banquets is
seeing something of a resurgence.
I wanted to see what the future of village chef
style food could have in store.
So I went to meet Wen Guozhi,
an expert in traditional Taiwanese recipes at
the culinary school where he teaches in.
Being a Village Chef is a very traditional
profession in Taiwan, but recently there have been
some development in the cuisine.
What do you think about this.
Traditional Village Chefs either only had a primary
school education or weren't educated at all.
These days we have apprenticeships,
which has helped raise the level of education
for young chefs.
Today we're making Scallops with
Shredded Bamboo Shoots and Egg Skin,
it's one of the village chef's specialities.
We start off with the carrots.
We peel of its rough skin.
This is a regular cleaver,
and a bone cleaver.
We prep 90 percent of the ingredients using just
these two knives.
Maybe it's because resources were scarce
back in the day.
So people did all their cooking with just these
two knives.
I thought I was a decent cook but
next to Wen Guozhi, I felt pretty inept,
even when it came to frying an egg or
stir frying some vegetables.
How is it.
It's so good.
This is the part where the music is supposed to
come on.
It's got a light scent of bamboo shoot and
shiitake mushroom.
We have the scallop which is soft, and
the bamboo shoot which is crispy.
So there's a rich texture doing on.
Traditionally, village chefs have this sense of
social responsibility.
There's a warmth to this profession.
People used to say, the most beautiful thing
about Taiwan is its people and hospitality.
You can tell by how well-fed these guys look.
Village Chef is only a small part of
the chef profession.
Overall, what we need to do is to raise the level
of knowledge and skills of these chefs.
I don't know when I'll next be getting
pork buns, but the funeral marching band.
Or helping fry a fish on the side of the road.
But it was exciting to see a younger generation
of Taiwanese keeping
village chef traditions alive.
Whether it involves cooking outdoors under
a tarp or flirting with molecular gastronomy
in a fancy kitchen.
This is food that's meant to be shared.
コツ:単語をクリックしてすぐ意味を調べられます!

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MUNCHIES Presents: Taiwan's Funeral Feasts

68 タグ追加 保存
eunice4u4u 2019 年 11 月 14 日 に公開
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