字幕表 動画を再生する 字幕スクリプトをプリント 翻訳字幕をプリント 英語字幕をプリント It's 3 in the morning in The Mecca メッカ 午前３時 and this is about as quiet as it gets すごく静かだ Hajj is the largest annual pilgrimage in The World. [サウジのメッカ巡礼] It happens in Mecca, Saudi Arabia ハッジは 世界最大級の 巡礼儀式だ and for Muslims it's a requirment that you have to do once in your lifetime イスラム教徒にとっては 一生に一度の務め The Saudi government estimated that last year サウジ政府は 巡礼者数をー there were over 3 million pilgrims who attended 300万人以上と発表 実際はもっと多い but the unofficial number is much higher パキスタン出身の オレの両親がー My parents are originally from Lahora, Pakistan 2010年に 初の巡礼を決意 They are practicing Muslims 【バイス創設者 サルーシュ】 オレも興味があって 同行した And, last year they decided it was time for them to perform Hujj. 初の巡礼で 取材する気はなかったがー So, I went with them to help them with their journey 小型カメラを忍ばせ 撮影禁止の聖地をこっそり撮った But, also for myself as well. これが その秘蔵映像だ It was the first time for all of us NYから約10時間で メディナに到着 and I didn't go thinking I was gonna make a VBS documentary そこで６日間滞在し 心の準備を I just took the smallest camera we had in the office 【サウジアラビア メディナ】 イスラム支配の前ー and literally shot from the hip. You're not allowed to shoot in most of the holy places ここは ラクダで砂漠を 渡る人の 休憩所だった So, this is the footage I managed to sneak out. 砂漠のオアシスだ We flew out on Saudi Arabian Airlines. It was about a 10 hour flight. 街の役割は 今も同じだが ラクダは少なくなった from JFK to Medina 【預言者モスク】 街には美しいモスクがある Where we spent 6 days getting mentally prepared イスラムで第２の聖地だ for the Hujj that we were about to embark on. ここでは６日間 １日５回 モスクでー [MEDINA, SAUDI ARABIA] In Pre-islamic times, Medina was a place ひたすら瞑想する where the travelers who were crossing the desert 70万人を収容できる モスクだがー in camel caravans would come to rest 金曜礼拝は 満員だった It was kind of like a desert oasis. メッカに行くフライトは風変わりで 搭乗前に身を清めー In modern times it's kind of the same thing, but less camels 全員 縫い目のない 白い巡礼服に 着替えなくちゃならない and more shopping malls and hotels. 身分を表すものを 捨てることでー There's also a stunning mosque there 誰もが皆 同等になるのだ called The Prophets Masjid 階級の差は消え 布を着た ただの人となる Which is the 2nd holiest site in Islam この状態をイフラームといい 他にも決まりがある When you're there, you're basically just go to the mosque 喫煙 性行為 ひげそり 爪切りなど 禁止事項は多い five times a day for six days straight 巡礼用のチャーター機に乗り 離陸10分後ー to get into meditative state 〝境界〟を通過したとの放送が The mosque is huge. It holds almost 700,000 people. 聖域に入ったら 祈らなければならない And when we were there for the Friday prayer ツアーガイドが マイクで祈り始めるとー it was pretty much full 皆も続いて唱え始めた Flying to Mecca from Medina was really interesting オレは 白いローブ姿の女や ひげ面の男を見て ふと思った Before we went to the airport, we cleansed ourselves in a very specific way 欧米人が彼らを見たらー we had to put on a white seamless garment made out of terry cloth ジハードを掲げる狂信者と 思うだろう that all the pilgrims have to wear 聖なる旅に出た ただの巡礼者なのに it's a renunciation of the life that you come from 最も違和感があったのはー it's supposed to put everyone on the same level 乗務員が全員 制服姿の フィリピン人だったことだ There's no upper class or lower class. 嫌々やってるように見えた Everyone's the same- it's just you in the sheet and that's it. 街へは バスで入る This is called getting into a state of eran こんなワイルドな光景は 見たことがない Besides the clothes, there are a lot of other rules. 世界中から来た巡礼者と車が ごった返してる You can't smoke, you can't have sex, you can't shave. You can't cut your nails 車やバスの屋根に乗る人々 and there are a bunch of other no no's 屋根を飛び移る人も 皆メッカを目指してるんだ So, we got on this charter just for the pilgrims 普段のメッカは 比較的のんびりした街だ ten minutes after the plane took off from Medina だが ハッジの期間は 様変わりする the captain announced that we flown over a designation point ハッジ達成の秘訣は 計画どおりに動くこと and we were in the zone near Mecca そして 同じ行動をする 300万人に負けないことだ we all had to start reciting a prayer オレたちは ホテルに着くと 歩いて聖モスクに向かった our group guide got onto the loud speaker system of the airplane 【聖モスク】 ここはイスラム最大の聖地 and started yelling the prayer- everyone started chanting it この巨大な建物には 屋内と屋外を合わせてー I had a moment where I looked around 400万人を収容できる and saw all these men and women in the white robes- men with their beards ハッジの期間には 世界最大規模の集会となりー and just thought: if someone from the west could see us right now 世界中の人々が 聖モスクに 向かって祈る they'd think we were a bunch of fanatical jihadis 誰もが憧れてきた地だ 近づくにつれ 期待が高まる on some kind of an insa ne mission モスクに入ると カーバ神殿が見えた when in reality, it's just pilgrims who decided to go on a 中央の黒い箱が カーバだ a spiritual quest 紀元前2000年頃に建てられ 多神教者の礼拝所だったがー I think what was most odd about this flight 後に 預言者ムハンマドが カーバに置かれた偶像を排除 were the flight attendants who were all filipino- wearing 神の館として定めたのだ their normal Saudi flight attendant outfits 聖モスクでは 最初の儀式〝タワーフ〟を行う looking like they would rather have any other gig in The World than this one. カーバの周りを 反時計回りに ７周する儀式だ We landed in Jeddah and took a bus into Mecca そこはまるで 満杯のコンサート会場 That ride into the city was one of the wilder scenes I've ever seen in my life. でも 周りはパンク野郎じゃなく 乱暴な南アジア人の婆さんらだ There were all these pilgrims coming from all directions オレは両親と腕を組みー All kinds of vehicles 支え合いながら 神殿を７周回った You see them riding on the tops of cars and vans and buses カーバには 霊的な力を感じる I remember seeing a pilgrim jumping from the roof of one bus to another だが そんな気分も 上を見ると台無しだ and he's just trying to get to the city 部屋から祈りたい金持ちのための 高級ホテルが並んでる Mecca is not a very big city カーバのあとも やるべき儀式は続く during the year it's a relatively mellow place ５日間で全部やるにはー except during the week of Hujj リストを作り 戦略を立てなきゃ 達成できない The city completely transforms 次は 丘の間を走る サアイという儀式をこなす Half the challenge of completing your Hujj かつては野外だったがー is getting all these rituals done 今じゃ２つの 長い廊下になってる in a very strict timeline 今度は 預言者が 最後の説教をした アラファ山へ and dealing with the fact that there are about 300 million other people there ここで１日 黙想を to try and do the exact same thing at the same time 神に罪の許しを請う 大事な時間だ After we checked into our hotel in Mecca オレは テントで過ごしたあと 山のほうに行ってみた we walked towards the grand mosque which is also known as the そこら中に動物を連れて 野営する人々がいる [MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] Masjid Al-Haram. It's the holiest place in Islam 山の近くに来ると すごい光景が見えた [MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] and it's a massive structure そこは巡礼者で 雪山のようだった [MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] this mosque can hold upwards of 4 million people 旅の前に渡されたツアー案内に こう書いてあった [MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] with its outdoor and indoor space 「耐えなさい ひたすら忍耐強くありなさい」 during Hujj, it's technically the largest gathering of people in The World この意味を ３キロの距離を ８時間バスに揺られー at any given time ようやく理解した This mosque is what muslims pray towards from all over The World. 真夜中 ムズダリファという所で 石拾いの儀式をする As you're walking towards it- you feel the anticipation build オレたちは バスを降り 地面で寝ている人の間を歩いた people have been waiting their whole lives to come to this place 石を見つけたら 礼拝をする時間 once you enter the mosque, you see the kaaba ラグを道路の脇に広げ お祈りを開始 The kaaba is a black box in the center of the grand mosque オレの両親だ 道路の横で祈ってる it was built around 2,000 BC 隣はバス people have been praying towards it since before Islam started こっちには人が寝てる When Mohammad finally showed up まるで別世界だ he cleaned up the place. Got rid of all the idols the pagans had been worshipping ある意味 きれいな風景だ and reordained the building as The House of God 石を拾ったあとは 再びバスで ミナーへ So, in the grand mosque we had to do our first ritual ここに滞在する者は多い which is called the toaf 人の数は１週間で 60万人以上に達するがー which is basically doing seven counter clockwise laps around the kaaba ハッジ後は一気に減少する It's kind of like being in a moshpit with hundreds of thousands of people どこもテントだらけだ But, instead of it being full of angry young punk kids ミナーに到着し ここで石投げの儀式を we were up against aggressive, pushy bangladeshi grandmothers これが結構楽しい I had my parents on each arm interlocked ３つある悪魔の石投げ場に ７個ずつ石を投げる and we held each other as we went around the structure seven times. ついに悪魔と対面だ Staring at the kaaba 数年前まで悪魔は 穴に立てた柱だったがー it's a very intense and heavy vibe 人が殺到し 死者が出た but the one thing that's a total bummer is, you look up そこで サウジ政府は 広い歩道橋を造りー and all you see are these 悪魔を表す柱を ３本設置した massive luxury five star hotels for the super rich muslims 柱は 緑色の光が当てられ 変わった低い音を立てる who want to pray from the confines of their room. おかげで悪魔は かなりシュールな印象だ After running around the kaaba seven times ハッジ終了前に いくつか儀式を繰り返す you have to do a bunch of other rituals before completing your Hujj. 悪魔にあと２回 石を投げー You have five days to get it done, and it's kind of like being メッカに戻って またカーバを７周した You have a checklist, you have to be smart, and you have to use strategy in order to make this happen on schedule. そしてハッジの最後を飾る 犠牲祭を迎える You have to do the sai イフラームの制限から解放され お祝いに動物を捧げる Which is walking an running back and forth between two hills それから最後に髪を剃る Back in the day it used to be outdoors. And now it's been turned into 床屋の前に 長蛇の列が an indoor structure with two very, very long corridors 全員もうすぐ坊主頭だ You have to spend a day at mount arafat メッカの床屋は どこも大行列 It's where the prophet delivered his last sermon from. 何十万もの坊主が 歩いてる You spend the day in prayer and contemplation ハッジを達成した人々だ and you beg for forgiveness for all of your sins. ハッジ対策は サウジ政府にとって 重要課題であるためー It's a very important day. 〝巡礼省〟が設けられてる And after spending the majority of it in a tent 過去には 橋が崩壊し 巡礼者が死亡する事故があった I walked out and went into the direction of the mountain 政府は大金をつぎ込んで インフラ整備を行いー I walked through this wild scene with people everywhere 群衆を整理してきた camped out with their animals オレが行った時は かろうじて問題はなかった As I got closer to Mount Arafat だが 300万人も 狭い場所に集まればー it was such an incredible sight 問題は起きて当然だ because it had been completely transformed これだけ多くの人がいれば 手を焼くのは仕方ない and looked like a snow covered peak どんなに政府が 問題に取り組んでもー Our tour group operator before we went on this trip gave us some guidelines 結局 人が多すぎるのだ and the last point on this sheet said 人には寝る場所が必要だしー Be patient, be very patient, be very very patient. 食事やトイレも要る I fully grasped the meaning of this 貧しい人は 何日もずっと 道端で野宿してる when we had to take a three kilometer bus ride メッカは もうパンク寸前 and it ended up taking eight hours まるで世界の終末のようだ It was the middle of night and we had to collect stones 使命を終えたあなた方は この世で最も幸福です it was one of our rituals in a place called Muslifa あなたは生まれ変わり 罪は許されました We got off the bus and navigated our way これは現実です around sleeping bodies all over the ground 出身も仕事も 貧富も関係なくー found the stones and then it was time to pray 巡礼中は 誰もが平等に思えた and so we just threw the prayer rugs down on the side of the highway こんな経験をしたのは 初めてだ and hit the mats. 何百万人に囲まれー After picking up the stones we got back on the bus 両親もいたのに なぜか孤独を感じた and drove to Mina 旅の間 日常は はるか遠くに感じられた The valley of Mina is where the majority of the pilgrims stay. 朝 NYに到着してー It's a tense city すぐにバイスへ出社したのは 間違いだった That fills up with the population of Seattle for a week 途端に現実に引き戻された and after Hujj ends, it clears out again and goes away 字幕翻訳 日本映像翻訳アカデミー 字幕監修 大石レナ It's tents as far as the eye can see. We arrived in Mina, and that's where we had to stone satan- that's the next ritual this one was actually a lot of fun We had to throw twenty-one stones seven at three separate satan stoning stations and I finally got to see what satan looks like Up until a couple years ago Satan looked like three large pillars sticking up out of a large pit. But, the space wasn't big enough and there was a stampede and people died so the Saudi government They built three ramps the size of a mulit-lane highway and there were three pillars inside of it that represent the devil. They're lit in shades of green and there's a strange rumbling loud sound coming out of them. As my Dad pointed out- the whole thing made satan seem quit surreal Before we finished the Hujj We had to repeat some of the rituals that we'd already done. We had to revisit satan Throw rocks at him two more times We had to go back to Mecca from Mina And do another seven counter clockwise laps. Then it was time for Eid which marks the official end of Hujj and is a big celebration. It's the end of the state of eran that we've been in and we slaughter an animal to celebrate it And then the last thing you do is, you shave your head. This is the line for the barbershop This is the line Soon they will all be bald- all of these men. The barbershops in Mecca have these massive lines outside of them and you see Hundreds of thousands of baldos walking around town. Those people have all succeeded in completing their Hujj . Dealing with the Hujj every year is a huge legistial challenge for the Saudi Government. So they sat up a ministy of H ujj In the past, there have been incidences where pilgrims were trampled, when ramps collapsed, and pilgrims died. The Saudi govt. has invested billions of dollars to create an infrastructure to make this work with complex crowd-control techniques What I saw when I went last year was something that somehow manages to work. But, it kind of goes without saying bringing 3 million people to such a small place is going to bring up some complications There's a bit of a dark side This many people in such a small place it really gets unwieldy. Despite the saudi govt's best efforts to deal with this profound logistical challenge The bottom line is that there are too manhy people. And people need things They need places to sleep. They need food. They need toilets. The poor people that are there- you see them camped out on the side of the road. For days on end. It really felt like Mecca was maxing out by the end of Hujj. The whole scene starts looking and feeling rather apocolyptic. No matter where all these people come from No matter what they do or how rich or poor they might be During this pilgrimage to Mecca, I felt like everyone was just the same. It was unlike any place I've ever been or unlike anything I've ever experienced. I was there standing amongst millions of people I was there with my family. On some level I felt like I was all alone. On a personal trek Everyday life felt like it was hundreds of thousands of miles away We flew back to NY, we landed in the morning And I went straight back to the Vice offices Which may not have been the wisest of ideas I felt like I had been catapulted from one end of the universe to the other.