and this is about as quiet as it gets

すごく静かだ

Hajj is the largest annual pilgrimage in The World.

[サウジのメッカ巡礼]

It happens in Mecca, Saudi Arabia

ハッジは 世界最大級の 巡礼儀式だ

and for Muslims it's a requirment that you have to do once in your lifetime

イスラム教徒にとっては 一生に一度の務め

The Saudi government estimated that last year

サウジ政府は 巡礼者数をー

there were over 3 million pilgrims who attended

300万人以上と発表 実際はもっと多い

but the unofficial number is much higher

パキスタン出身の オレの両親がー

My parents are originally from Lahora, Pakistan

2010年に 初の巡礼を決意

They are practicing Muslims

【バイス創設者 サルーシュ】 オレも興味があって 同行した

And, last year they decided it was time for them to perform Hujj.

初の巡礼で 取材する気はなかったがー

So, I went with them to help them with their journey

小型カメラを忍ばせ 撮影禁止の聖地をこっそり撮った

But, also for myself as well.

これが その秘蔵映像だ

It was the first time for all of us

NYから約10時間で メディナに到着

and I didn't go thinking I was gonna make a VBS documentary

そこで６日間滞在し 心の準備を

I just took the smallest camera we had in the office

【サウジアラビア メディナ】 イスラム支配の前ー

and literally shot from the hip. You're not allowed to shoot in most of the holy places

ここは ラクダで砂漠を 渡る人の 休憩所だった

So, this is the footage I managed to sneak out.

砂漠のオアシスだ

We flew out on Saudi Arabian Airlines. It was about a 10 hour flight.

街の役割は 今も同じだが ラクダは少なくなった

from JFK to Medina

【預言者モスク】 街には美しいモスクがある

Where we spent 6 days getting mentally prepared

イスラムで第２の聖地だ

for the Hujj that we were about to embark on.

ここでは６日間 １日５回 モスクでー

[MEDINA, SAUDI ARABIA] In Pre-islamic times, Medina was a place

ひたすら瞑想する

where the travelers who were crossing the desert

70万人を収容できる モスクだがー

in camel caravans would come to rest

金曜礼拝は 満員だった

It was kind of like a desert oasis.

メッカに行くフライトは風変わりで 搭乗前に身を清めー

In modern times it's kind of the same thing, but less camels

全員 縫い目のない 白い巡礼服に 着替えなくちゃならない

and more shopping malls and hotels.

身分を表すものを 捨てることでー

There's also a stunning mosque there

誰もが皆 同等になるのだ

called The Prophets Masjid

階級の差は消え 布を着た ただの人となる

Which is the 2nd holiest site in Islam

この状態をイフラームといい 他にも決まりがある

When you're there, you're basically just go to the mosque

喫煙 性行為 ひげそり 爪切りなど　禁止事項は多い

five times a day for six days straight

巡礼用のチャーター機に乗り 離陸10分後ー

to get into meditative state

〝境界〟を通過したとの放送が

The mosque is huge. It holds almost 700,000 people.

聖域に入ったら 祈らなければならない

And when we were there for the Friday prayer

ツアーガイドが マイクで祈り始めるとー

it was pretty much full

皆も続いて唱え始めた

Flying to Mecca from Medina was really interesting

オレは 白いローブ姿の女や ひげ面の男を見て ふと思った

Before we went to the airport, we cleansed ourselves in a very specific way

欧米人が彼らを見たらー

we had to put on a white seamless garment made out of terry cloth

ジハードを掲げる狂信者と 思うだろう

that all the pilgrims have to wear

聖なる旅に出た ただの巡礼者なのに

it's a renunciation of the life that you come from

最も違和感があったのはー

it's supposed to put everyone on the same level

乗務員が全員 制服姿の フィリピン人だったことだ

There's no upper class or lower class.

嫌々やってるように見えた

Everyone's the same- it's just you in the sheet and that's it.

街へは バスで入る

This is called getting into a state of eran

こんなワイルドな光景は 見たことがない

Besides the clothes, there are a lot of other rules.

世界中から来た巡礼者と車が ごった返してる

You can't smoke, you can't have sex, you can't shave. You can't cut your nails

車やバスの屋根に乗る人々

and there are a bunch of other no no's

屋根を飛び移る人も 皆メッカを目指してるんだ

So, we got on this charter just for the pilgrims

普段のメッカは 比較的のんびりした街だ

ten minutes after the plane took off from Medina

だが ハッジの期間は 様変わりする

the captain announced that we flown over a designation point

ハッジ達成の秘訣は 計画どおりに動くこと

and we were in the zone near Mecca

そして 同じ行動をする 300万人に負けないことだ

we all had to start reciting a prayer

オレたちは ホテルに着くと 歩いて聖モスクに向かった

our group guide got onto the loud speaker system of the airplane

【聖モスク】 ここはイスラム最大の聖地

and started yelling the prayer- everyone started chanting it

この巨大な建物には 屋内と屋外を合わせてー

I had a moment where I looked around

400万人を収容できる

and saw all these men and women in the white robes- men with their beards

ハッジの期間には 世界最大規模の集会となりー

and just thought: if someone from the west could see us right now

世界中の人々が 聖モスクに 向かって祈る

they'd think we were a bunch of fanatical jihadis

誰もが憧れてきた地だ 近づくにつれ 期待が高まる

on some kind of an insa ne mission

モスクに入ると カーバ神殿が見えた

when in reality, it's just pilgrims who decided to go on a

中央の黒い箱が カーバだ

a spiritual quest

紀元前2000年頃に建てられ 多神教者の礼拝所だったがー

I think what was most odd about this flight

後に 預言者ムハンマドが カーバに置かれた偶像を排除

were the flight attendants who were all filipino- wearing

神の館として定めたのだ

their normal Saudi flight attendant outfits

聖モスクでは 最初の儀式〝タワーフ〟を行う

looking like they would rather have any other gig in The World than this one.

カーバの周りを 反時計回りに ７周する儀式だ

We landed in Jeddah and took a bus into Mecca

そこはまるで 満杯のコンサート会場

That ride into the city was one of the wilder scenes I've ever seen in my life.

でも 周りはパンク野郎じゃなく 乱暴な南アジア人の婆さんらだ

There were all these pilgrims coming from all directions

オレは両親と腕を組みー

All kinds of vehicles

支え合いながら 神殿を７周回った

You see them riding on the tops of cars and vans and buses

カーバには 霊的な力を感じる

I remember seeing a pilgrim jumping from the roof of one bus to another

だが そんな気分も 上を見ると台無しだ

and he's just trying to get to the city

部屋から祈りたい金持ちのための 高級ホテルが並んでる

Mecca is not a very big city

カーバのあとも やるべき儀式は続く

during the year it's a relatively mellow place

５日間で全部やるにはー

except during the week of Hujj

リストを作り 戦略を立てなきゃ 達成できない

The city completely transforms

次は 丘の間を走る サアイという儀式をこなす

Half the challenge of completing your Hujj

かつては野外だったがー

is getting all these rituals done

今じゃ２つの 長い廊下になってる

in a very strict timeline

今度は 預言者が 最後の説教をした アラファ山へ

and dealing with the fact that there are about 300 million other people there

ここで１日 黙想を

to try and do the exact same thing at the same time

神に罪の許しを請う 大事な時間だ

After we checked into our hotel in Mecca

オレは テントで過ごしたあと 山のほうに行ってみた

we walked towards the grand mosque which is also known as the

そこら中に動物を連れて 野営する人々がいる

[MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] Masjid Al-Haram. It's the holiest place in Islam

山の近くに来ると すごい光景が見えた

[MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] and it's a massive structure

そこは巡礼者で 雪山のようだった

[MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] this mosque can hold upwards of 4 million people

旅の前に渡されたツアー案内に こう書いてあった

[MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] with its outdoor and indoor space

「耐えなさい ひたすら忍耐強くありなさい」

during Hujj, it's technically the largest gathering of people in The World

この意味を ３キロの距離を ８時間バスに揺られー

at any given time

ようやく理解した

This mosque is what muslims pray towards from all over The World.

真夜中 ムズダリファという所で 石拾いの儀式をする

As you're walking towards it- you feel the anticipation build

オレたちは バスを降り 地面で寝ている人の間を歩いた

people have been waiting their whole lives to come to this place

石を見つけたら 礼拝をする時間

once you enter the mosque, you see the kaaba

ラグを道路の脇に広げ お祈りを開始

The kaaba is a black box in the center of the grand mosque

オレの両親だ 道路の横で祈ってる

it was built around 2,000 BC

隣はバス

people have been praying towards it since before Islam started

こっちには人が寝てる

When Mohammad finally showed up

まるで別世界だ

he cleaned up the place. Got rid of all the idols the pagans had been worshipping

ある意味 きれいな風景だ

and reordained the building as The House of God

石を拾ったあとは 再びバスで ミナーへ

So, in the grand mosque we had to do our first ritual

ここに滞在する者は多い

which is called the toaf

人の数は１週間で 60万人以上に達するがー

which is basically doing seven counter clockwise laps around the kaaba

ハッジ後は一気に減少する

It's kind of like being in a moshpit with hundreds of thousands of people

どこもテントだらけだ

But, instead of it being full of angry young punk kids

ミナーに到着し ここで石投げの儀式を

we were up against aggressive, pushy bangladeshi grandmothers

これが結構楽しい

I had my parents on each arm interlocked

３つある悪魔の石投げ場に ７個ずつ石を投げる

and we held each other as we went around the structure seven times.

ついに悪魔と対面だ

Staring at the kaaba

数年前まで悪魔は 穴に立てた柱だったがー

it's a very intense and heavy vibe

人が殺到し 死者が出た

but the one thing that's a total bummer is, you look up

そこで サウジ政府は 広い歩道橋を造りー

and all you see are these

悪魔を表す柱を ３本設置した

massive luxury five star hotels for the super rich muslims

柱は 緑色の光が当てられ 変わった低い音を立てる

who want to pray from the confines of their room.

おかげで悪魔は かなりシュールな印象だ

After running around the kaaba seven times

ハッジ終了前に いくつか儀式を繰り返す

you have to do a bunch of other rituals before completing your Hujj.

悪魔にあと２回 石を投げー

You have five days to get it done, and it's kind of like being

メッカに戻って またカーバを７周した

You have a checklist, you have to be smart, and you have to use strategy in order to make this happen on schedule.

そしてハッジの最後を飾る 犠牲祭を迎える

You have to do the sai

イフラームの制限から解放され お祝いに動物を捧げる

Which is walking an running back and forth between two hills

それから最後に髪を剃る

Back in the day it used to be outdoors. And now it's been turned into

床屋の前に 長蛇の列が

an indoor structure with two very, very long corridors

全員もうすぐ坊主頭だ

You have to spend a day at mount arafat

メッカの床屋は どこも大行列

It's where the prophet delivered his last sermon from.

何十万もの坊主が 歩いてる

You spend the day in prayer and contemplation

ハッジを達成した人々だ

and you beg for forgiveness for all of your sins.

ハッジ対策は サウジ政府にとって 重要課題であるためー

It's a very important day.

〝巡礼省〟が設けられてる

And after spending the majority of it in a tent

過去には 橋が崩壊し 巡礼者が死亡する事故があった

I walked out and went into the direction of the mountain

政府は大金をつぎ込んで インフラ整備を行いー

I walked through this wild scene with people everywhere

群衆を整理してきた

camped out with their animals

オレが行った時は かろうじて問題はなかった

As I got closer to Mount Arafat

だが 300万人も 狭い場所に集まればー

it was such an incredible sight

問題は起きて当然だ

because it had been completely transformed

これだけ多くの人がいれば 手を焼くのは仕方ない

and looked like a snow covered peak

どんなに政府が 問題に取り組んでもー

Our tour group operator before we went on this trip gave us some guidelines

結局 人が多すぎるのだ

and the last point on this sheet said

人には寝る場所が必要だしー

Be patient, be very patient, be very very patient.

食事やトイレも要る

I fully grasped the meaning of this

貧しい人は 何日もずっと 道端で野宿してる

when we had to take a three kilometer bus ride

メッカは もうパンク寸前

and it ended up taking eight hours

まるで世界の終末のようだ

It was the middle of night and we had to collect stones

使命を終えたあなた方は この世で最も幸福です

it was one of our rituals in a place called Muslifa

あなたは生まれ変わり 罪は許されました

We got off the bus and navigated our way

これは現実です

around sleeping bodies all over the ground

出身も仕事も 貧富も関係なくー

found the stones and then it was time to pray

巡礼中は 誰もが平等に思えた

and so we just threw the prayer rugs down on the side of the highway

こんな経験をしたのは 初めてだ

and hit the mats.

何百万人に囲まれー

After picking up the stones we got back on the bus

両親もいたのに なぜか孤独を感じた

and drove to Mina

旅の間 日常は はるか遠くに感じられた

The valley of Mina is where the majority of the pilgrims stay.

朝 NYに到着してー

It's a tense city

すぐにバイスへ出社したのは 間違いだった

That fills up with the population of Seattle for a week

途端に現実に引き戻された

and after Hujj ends, it clears out again and goes away

字幕翻訳　日本映像翻訳アカデミー 字幕監修　大石レナ

It's tents as far as the eye can see.

We arrived in Mina, and that's where we had to

stone satan- that's the next ritual

this one was actually a lot of fun

We had to throw twenty-one stones

seven at three separate satan stoning stations

and I finally got to see what satan looks like

Up until a couple years ago

Satan looked like three large pillars

sticking up out of a large pit.

But, the space wasn't big enough

and there was a stampede and people died

so the Saudi government

They built three ramps the size of a mulit-lane highway

and there were three pillars inside of it that represent the devil.

They're lit in shades of green

and there's a strange rumbling loud sound coming out of them.

As my Dad pointed out- the whole thing made satan seem quit surreal

Before we finished the Hujj

We had to repeat some of the rituals that we'd already done.

We had to revisit satan

Throw rocks at him two more times

We had to go back to Mecca from Mina

And do another seven counter clockwise laps.

Then it was time for Eid

which marks the official end of Hujj

and is a big celebration.

It's the end of the state of eran that we've been in

and we slaughter an animal to celebrate it

And then the last thing you do

is, you shave your head.

This is the line for the barbershop

This is the line

Soon they will all be bald- all of these men.

The barbershops in Mecca have these massive lines outside of them

and you see

Hundreds of thousands of baldos walking around town.

Those people have all succeeded in completing their Hujj .

Dealing with the Hujj every year is a huge

legistial challenge for the Saudi Government.

So they sat up a ministy of H ujj

In the past, there have been incidences

where pilgrims were trampled, when ramps collapsed, and pilgrims died.

The Saudi govt. has invested billions of dollars

to create an infrastructure to make this work

with complex crowd-control techniques

What I saw when I went last year

was something that somehow manages to work.

But, it kind of goes without saying bringing 3 million people

to such a small place

is going to bring up some complications

There's a bit of a dark side

This many people in such a small place

it really gets unwieldy.

Despite the saudi govt's best efforts to deal with this profound

logistical challenge

The bottom line is that there are too manhy people.

And people need things

They need places to sleep.

They need food.

They need toilets.

The poor people that are there- you see them camped out on the side of the road.

For days on end.

It really felt like Mecca was maxing out by the end of Hujj.

The whole scene starts looking and feeling rather apocolyptic.

No matter where all these people come from

No matter what they do or how rich or poor they might be

During this pilgrimage to Mecca, I felt like everyone was just the same.

It was unlike any place I've ever been

or unlike anything I've ever experienced.

I was there standing amongst millions of people