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  • It's 3 in the morning in The Mecca

    メッカ 午前3時

  • and this is about as quiet as it gets

    すごく静かだ

  • Hajj is the largest annual pilgrimage in The World.

    [サウジのメッカ巡礼]

  • It happens in Mecca, Saudi Arabia

    ハッジは 世界最大級の 巡礼儀式だ

  • and for Muslims it's a requirment that you have to do once in your lifetime

    イスラム教徒にとっては 一生に一度の務め

  • The Saudi government estimated that last year

    サウジ政府は 巡礼者数をー

  • there were over 3 million pilgrims who attended

    300万人以上と発表 実際はもっと多い

  • but the unofficial number is much higher

    パキスタン出身の オレの両親がー

  • My parents are originally from Lahora, Pakistan

    2010年に 初の巡礼を決意

  • They are practicing Muslims

    【バイス創設者 サルーシュ】 オレも興味があって 同行した

  • And, last year they decided it was time for them to perform Hujj.

    初の巡礼で 取材する気はなかったがー

  • So, I went with them to help them with their journey

    小型カメラを忍ばせ 撮影禁止の聖地をこっそり撮った

  • But, also for myself as well.

    これが その秘蔵映像だ

  • It was the first time for all of us

    NYから約10時間で メディナに到着

  • and I didn't go thinking I was gonna make a VBS documentary

    そこで6日間滞在し 心の準備を

  • I just took the smallest camera we had in the office

    【サウジアラビア メディナ】 イスラム支配の前ー

  • and literally shot from the hip. You're not allowed to shoot in most of the holy places

    ここは ラクダで砂漠を 渡る人の 休憩所だった

  • So, this is the footage I managed to sneak out.

    砂漠のオアシスだ

  • We flew out on Saudi Arabian Airlines. It was about a 10 hour flight.

    街の役割は 今も同じだが ラクダは少なくなった

  • from JFK to Medina

    【預言者モスク】 街には美しいモスクがある

  • Where we spent 6 days getting mentally prepared

    イスラムで第2の聖地だ

  • for the Hujj that we were about to embark on.

    ここでは6日間 1日5回 モスクでー

  • [MEDINA, SAUDI ARABIA] In Pre-islamic times, Medina was a place

    ひたすら瞑想する

  • where the travelers who were crossing the desert

    70万人を収容できる モスクだがー

  • in camel caravans would come to rest

    金曜礼拝は 満員だった

  • It was kind of like a desert oasis.

    メッカに行くフライトは風変わりで 搭乗前に身を清めー

  • In modern times it's kind of the same thing, but less camels

    全員 縫い目のない 白い巡礼服に 着替えなくちゃならない

  • and more shopping malls and hotels.

    身分を表すものを 捨てることでー

  • There's also a stunning mosque there

    誰もが皆 同等になるのだ

  • called The Prophets Masjid

    階級の差は消え 布を着た ただの人となる

  • Which is the 2nd holiest site in Islam

    この状態をイフラームといい 他にも決まりがある

  • When you're there, you're basically just go to the mosque

    喫煙 性行為 ひげそり 爪切りなど 禁止事項は多い

  • five times a day for six days straight

    巡礼用のチャーター機に乗り 離陸10分後ー

  • to get into meditative state

    〝境界〟を通過したとの放送が

  • The mosque is huge. It holds almost 700,000 people.

    聖域に入ったら 祈らなければならない

  • And when we were there for the Friday prayer

    ツアーガイドが マイクで祈り始めるとー

  • it was pretty much full

    皆も続いて唱え始めた

  • Flying to Mecca from Medina was really interesting

    オレは 白いローブ姿の女や ひげ面の男を見て ふと思った

  • Before we went to the airport, we cleansed ourselves in a very specific way

    欧米人が彼らを見たらー

  • we had to put on a white seamless garment made out of terry cloth

    ジハードを掲げる狂信者と 思うだろう

  • that all the pilgrims have to wear

    聖なる旅に出た ただの巡礼者なのに

  • it's a renunciation of the life that you come from

    最も違和感があったのはー

  • it's supposed to put everyone on the same level

    乗務員が全員 制服姿の フィリピン人だったことだ

  • There's no upper class or lower class.

    嫌々やってるように見えた

  • Everyone's the same- it's just you in the sheet and that's it.

    街へは バスで入る

  • This is called getting into a state of eran

    こんなワイルドな光景は 見たことがない

  • Besides the clothes, there are a lot of other rules.

    世界中から来た巡礼者と車が ごった返してる

  • You can't smoke, you can't have sex, you can't shave. You can't cut your nails

    車やバスの屋根に乗る人々

  • and there are a bunch of other no no's

    屋根を飛び移る人も 皆メッカを目指してるんだ

  • So, we got on this charter just for the pilgrims

    普段のメッカは 比較的のんびりした街だ

  • ten minutes after the plane took off from Medina

    だが ハッジの期間は 様変わりする

  • the captain announced that we flown over a designation point

    ハッジ達成の秘訣は 計画どおりに動くこと

  • and we were in the zone near Mecca

    そして 同じ行動をする 300万人に負けないことだ

  • we all had to start reciting a prayer

    オレたちは ホテルに着くと 歩いて聖モスクに向かった

  • our group guide got onto the loud speaker system of the airplane

    【聖モスク】 ここはイスラム最大の聖地

  • and started yelling the prayer- everyone started chanting it

    この巨大な建物には 屋内と屋外を合わせてー

  • I had a moment where I looked around

    400万人を収容できる

  • and saw all these men and women in the white robes- men with their beards

    ハッジの期間には 世界最大規模の集会となりー

  • and just thought: if someone from the west could see us right now

    世界中の人々が 聖モスクに 向かって祈る

  • they'd think we were a bunch of fanatical jihadis

    誰もが憧れてきた地だ 近づくにつれ 期待が高まる

  • on some kind of an insa ne mission

    モスクに入ると カーバ神殿が見えた

  • when in reality, it's just pilgrims who decided to go on a

    中央の黒い箱が カーバだ

  • a spiritual quest

    紀元前2000年頃に建てられ 多神教者の礼拝所だったがー

  • I think what was most odd about this flight

    後に 預言者ムハンマドが カーバに置かれた偶像を排除

  • were the flight attendants who were all filipino- wearing

    神の館として定めたのだ

  • their normal Saudi flight attendant outfits

    聖モスクでは 最初の儀式〝タワーフ〟を行う

  • looking like they would rather have any other gig in The World than this one.

    カーバの周りを 反時計回りに 7周する儀式だ

  • We landed in Jeddah and took a bus into Mecca

    そこはまるで 満杯のコンサート会場

  • That ride into the city was one of the wilder scenes I've ever seen in my life.

    でも 周りはパンク野郎じゃなく 乱暴な南アジア人の婆さんらだ

  • There were all these pilgrims coming from all directions

    オレは両親と腕を組みー

  • All kinds of vehicles

    支え合いながら 神殿を7周回った

  • You see them riding on the tops of cars and vans and buses

    カーバには 霊的な力を感じる

  • I remember seeing a pilgrim jumping from the roof of one bus to another

    だが そんな気分も 上を見ると台無しだ

  • and he's just trying to get to the city

    部屋から祈りたい金持ちのための 高級ホテルが並んでる

  • Mecca is not a very big city

    カーバのあとも やるべき儀式は続く

  • during the year it's a relatively mellow place

    5日間で全部やるにはー

  • except during the week of Hujj

    リストを作り 戦略を立てなきゃ 達成できない

  • The city completely transforms

    次は 丘の間を走る サアイという儀式をこなす

  • Half the challenge of completing your Hujj

    かつては野外だったがー

  • is getting all these rituals done

    今じゃ2つの 長い廊下になってる

  • in a very strict timeline

    今度は 預言者が 最後の説教をした アラファ山へ

  • and dealing with the fact that there are about 300 million other people there

    ここで1日 黙想を

  • to try and do the exact same thing at the same time

    神に罪の許しを請う 大事な時間だ

  • After we checked into our hotel in Mecca

    オレは テントで過ごしたあと 山のほうに行ってみた

  • we walked towards the grand mosque which is also known as the

    そこら中に動物を連れて 野営する人々がいる

  • [MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] Masjid Al-Haram. It's the holiest place in Islam

    山の近くに来ると すごい光景が見えた

  • [MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] and it's a massive structure

    そこは巡礼者で 雪山のようだった

  • [MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] this mosque can hold upwards of 4 million people

    旅の前に渡されたツアー案内に こう書いてあった

  • [MASJID AL-HARAM: THE GRAND MOSQUE] with its outdoor and indoor space

    「耐えなさい ひたすら忍耐強くありなさい」

  • during Hujj, it's technically the largest gathering of people in The World

    この意味を 3キロの距離を 8時間バスに揺られー

  • at any given time

    ようやく理解した

  • This mosque is what muslims pray towards from all over The World.

    真夜中 ムズダリファという所で 石拾いの儀式をする

  • As you're walking towards it- you feel the anticipation build

    オレたちは バスを降り 地面で寝ている人の間を歩いた

  • people have been waiting their whole lives to come to this place

    石を見つけたら 礼拝をする時間

  • once you enter the mosque, you see the kaaba

    ラグを道路の脇に広げ お祈りを開始

  • The kaaba is a black box in the center of the grand mosque

    オレの両親だ 道路の横で祈ってる

  • it was built around 2,000 BC

    隣はバス

  • people have been praying towards it since before Islam started

    こっちには人が寝てる

  • When Mohammad finally showed up

    まるで別世界だ

  • he cleaned up the place. Got rid of all the idols the pagans had been worshipping

    ある意味 きれいな風景だ

  • and reordained the building as The House of God

    石を拾ったあとは 再びバスで ミナーへ

  • So, in the grand mosque we had to do our first ritual

    ここに滞在する者は多い

  • which is called the toaf

    人の数は1週間で 60万人以上に達するがー

  • which is basically doing seven counter clockwise laps around the kaaba

    ハッジ後は一気に減少する

  • It's kind of like being in a moshpit with hundreds of thousands of people

    どこもテントだらけだ

  • But, instead of it being full of angry young punk kids

    ミナーに到着し ここで石投げの儀式を

  • we were up against aggressive, pushy bangladeshi grandmothers

    これが結構楽しい

  • I had my parents on each arm interlocked

    3つある悪魔の石投げ場に 7個ずつ石を投げる

  • and we held each other as we went around the structure seven times.

    ついに悪魔と対面だ

  • Staring at the kaaba

    数年前まで悪魔は 穴に立てた柱だったがー

  • it's a very intense and heavy vibe

    人が殺到し 死者が出た

  • but the one thing that's a total bummer is, you look up

    そこで サウジ政府は 広い歩道橋を造りー

  • and all you see are these

    悪魔を表す柱を 3本設置した

  • massive luxury five star hotels for the super rich muslims

    柱は 緑色の光が当てられ 変わった低い音を立てる

  • who want to pray from the confines of their room.

    おかげで悪魔は かなりシュールな印象だ

  • After running around the kaaba seven times

    ハッジ終了前に いくつか儀式を繰り返す

  • you have to do a bunch of other rituals before completing your Hujj.

    悪魔にあと2回 石を投げー

  • You have five days to get it done, and it's kind of like being

    メッカに戻って またカーバを7周した

  • You have a checklist, you have to be smart, and you have to use strategy in order to make this happen on schedule.

    そしてハッジの最後を飾る 犠牲祭を迎える

  • You have to do the sai

    イフラームの制限から解放され お祝いに動物を捧げる

  • Which is walking an running back and forth between two hills

    それから最後に髪を剃る

  • Back in the day it used to be outdoors. And now it's been turned into

    床屋の前に 長蛇の列が

  • an indoor structure with two very, very long corridors

    全員もうすぐ坊主頭だ

  • You have to spend a day at mount arafat

    メッカの床屋は どこも大行列

  • It's where the prophet delivered his last sermon from.

    何十万もの坊主が 歩いてる

  • You spend the day in prayer and contemplation

    ハッジを達成した人々だ

  • and you beg for forgiveness for all of your sins.

    ハッジ対策は サウジ政府にとって 重要課題であるためー

  • It's a very important day.

    〝巡礼省〟が設けられてる

  • And after spending the majority of it in a tent

    過去には 橋が崩壊し 巡礼者が死亡する事故があった

  • I walked out and went into the direction of the mountain

    政府は大金をつぎ込んで インフラ整備を行いー

  • I walked through this wild scene with people everywhere

    群衆を整理してきた

  • camped out with their animals

    オレが行った時は かろうじて問題はなかった

  • As I got closer to Mount Arafat

    だが 300万人も 狭い場所に集まればー

  • it was such an incredible sight

    問題は起きて当然だ

  • because it had been completely transformed

    これだけ多くの人がいれば 手を焼くのは仕方ない

  • and looked like a snow covered peak

    どんなに政府が 問題に取り組んでもー

  • Our tour group operator before we went on this trip gave us some guidelines

    結局 人が多すぎるのだ

  • and the last point on this sheet said

    人には寝る場所が必要だしー

  • Be patient, be very patient, be very very patient.

    食事やトイレも要る

  • I fully grasped the meaning of this

    貧しい人は 何日もずっと 道端で野宿してる

  • when we had to take a three kilometer bus ride

    メッカは もうパンク寸前

  • and it ended up taking eight hours

    まるで世界の終末のようだ

  • It was the middle of night and we had to collect stones

    使命を終えたあなた方は この世で最も幸福です

  • it was one of our rituals in a place called Muslifa

    あなたは生まれ変わり 罪は許されました

  • We got off the bus and navigated our way

    これは現実です

  • around sleeping bodies all over the ground

    出身も仕事も 貧富も関係なくー

  • found the stones and then it was time to pray

    巡礼中は 誰もが平等に思えた

  • and so we just threw the prayer rugs down on the side of the highway

    こんな経験をしたのは 初めてだ

  • and hit the mats.

    何百万人に囲まれー

  • After picking up the stones we got back on the bus

    両親もいたのに なぜか孤独を感じた

  • and drove to Mina

    旅の間 日常は はるか遠くに感じられた

  • The valley of Mina is where the majority of the pilgrims stay.

    朝 NYに到着してー

  • It's a tense city

    すぐにバイスへ出社したのは 間違いだった

  • That fills up with the population of Seattle for a week

    途端に現実に引き戻された

  • and after Hujj ends, it clears out again and goes away

    字幕翻訳 日本映像翻訳アカデミー 字幕監修 大石レナ

  • It's tents as far as the eye can see.

  • We arrived in Mina, and that's where we had to

  • stone satan- that's the next ritual

  • this one was actually a lot of fun

  • We had to throw twenty-one stones

  • seven at three separate satan stoning stations

  • and I finally got to see what satan looks like

  • Up until a couple years ago

  • Satan looked like three large pillars

  • sticking up out of a large pit.

  • But, the space wasn't big enough

  • and there was a stampede and people died

  • so the Saudi government

  • They built three ramps the size of a mulit-lane highway

  • and there were three pillars inside of it that represent the devil.

  • They're lit in shades of green

  • and there's a strange rumbling loud sound coming out of them.

  • As my Dad pointed out- the whole thing made satan seem quit surreal

  • Before we finished the Hujj

  • We had to repeat some of the rituals that we'd already done.

  • We had to revisit satan

  • Throw rocks at him two more times

  • We had to go back to Mecca from Mina

  • And do another seven counter clockwise laps.

  • Then it was time for Eid

  • which marks the official end of Hujj

  • and is a big celebration.

  • It's the end of the state of eran that we've been in

  • and we slaughter an animal to celebrate it

  • And then the last thing you do

  • is, you shave your head.

  • This is the line for the barbershop

  • This is the line

  • Soon they will all be bald- all of these men.

  • The barbershops in Mecca have these massive lines outside of them

  • and you see

  • Hundreds of thousands of baldos walking around town.

  • Those people have all succeeded in completing their Hujj .

  • Dealing with the Hujj every year is a huge

  • legistial challenge for the Saudi Government.

  • So they sat up a ministy of H ujj

  • In the past, there have been incidences

  • where pilgrims were trampled, when ramps collapsed, and pilgrims died.

  • The Saudi govt. has invested billions of dollars

  • to create an infrastructure to make this work

  • with complex crowd-control techniques

  • What I saw when I went last year

  • was something that somehow manages to work.

  • But, it kind of goes without saying bringing 3 million people

  • to such a small place

  • is going to bring up some complications

  • There's a bit of a dark side

  • This many people in such a small place

  • it really gets unwieldy.

  • Despite the saudi govt's best efforts to deal with this profound

  • logistical challenge

  • The bottom line is that there are too manhy people.

  • And people need things

  • They need places to sleep.

  • They need food.

  • They need toilets.

  • The poor people that are there- you see them camped out on the side of the road.

  • For days on end.

  • It really felt like Mecca was maxing out by the end of Hujj.

  • The whole scene starts looking and feeling rather apocolyptic.

  • No matter where all these people come from

  • No matter what they do or how rich or poor they might be

  • During this pilgrimage to Mecca, I felt like everyone was just the same.

  • It was unlike any place I've ever been

  • or unlike anything I've ever experienced.

  • I was there standing amongst millions of people

  • I was there with my family.

  • On some level I felt like I was all alone.

  • On a personal trek

  • Everyday life felt like it was hundreds of thousands of miles away

  • We flew back to NY, we landed in the morning

  • And I went straight back to the Vice offices

  • Which may not have been the wisest of ideas

  • I felt like I had been catapulted from one end of the universe to the other.

It's 3 in the morning in The Mecca

メッカ 午前3時

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B1 中級 日本語 巡礼 モスク 儀式 サウジ 悪魔 バス

サウジのメッカ巡礼 - Mecca Diaries (サウジのメッカ巡礼 - Mecca Diaries)

  • 87 10
    阿多賓 に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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