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  • If you want to know how to pick the best ice climbing axe?

  • Then keep watching!

  • But before I answer that question

  • if you are new to alpine climbing

  • or ice climbing, or maybe you have been climbing for a few years

  • remember to subscribe to our channel

  • to recieve more videos about gear advice

  • and alpine and ice climbing around Europe.

  • So, a frew weeks ago I did a comparison between the mountaineering axe

  • and the technical ice climbing axe

  • but this time I will try to look at what are the actual details around

  • the technical ice climbing axe

  • and how do you select and pick out the best one for you.

  • So, the four different different ice climbing axes we are going to look at that is

  • the Grivel Tech Machine

  • The Petzl Nomic

  • The Black Diamond Fuel

  • and the Petzl Quark (2018).

  • But let's take a look at the different features that we will be looking at.

  • (Curvature, handle, modularity, spike and pick)

  • (Strength)

  • First of all, ice climbing axes are rated according to their strength.

  • They can either be B-rated or T-rated

  • based on tests on their shaft and their pick.

  • A B-rated (Basic) axe would be tested against 280 kg of force

  • while a T-rated (Technical) would be tested against 400 kg.

  • So, why does this even matter?

  • Well, it matters because when you are doing hard Ice

  • and you repeatedly bang you ice axe against the ice

  • this could eventually break it, if it is not strong enough.

  • And actually if you are doing mixed climbing as well

  • where you have to use rock

  • and you have to torque the ice climbing axe

  • or you have to

  • to pull on rock with the axe

  • it could eventually break as well.

  • (Curvature)

  • So, the second thing you have to notice about ice climbing axes

  • is the curvature of the shaft.

  • This is also what you should refer to as the "Aggressiveness".

  • The right amount of aggressiveness

  • helps on getting bite into the ice

  • and that's why it is really important that you get

  • the right curvature of the shaft.

  • To less curvature means that the ice axe

  • potentially could pop out of the ice

  • and you would take a fall.

  • And too much would actually mean that

  • you can't get the right angle for penetrating the ice.

  • So, what you obviously want is the right amount of curvature.

  • So, I've brought four different technical ice climbing axes to show.

  • And they all have the right amount of curvature.

  • So, the third thing you need to look for that is the teeth and the blade itself.

  • So, the technical ice climbing axe has a very different blade

  • than the traditional mountaineering axe.

  • As you can see the blade is much sharper

  • and the teeth are much more aggressive and sharp as well.

  • And this is for penetrating the ice more easily.

  • However, some of the technical ice climbing axes

  • actually have a bit of a different design than others.

  • So the Black Diamond Fuel has a more sharper and narrow pick

  • than the others

  • which is insanely awesome for penetrating ice.

  • Where as you can see on the Grivel Tech Machine

  • and the Petzl Nomic that the design is a bit different.

  • This is good for mixed ground, where you have to climb on rock as well

  • but still penetrate ice quite easily.

  • And speaking of blades, you need to keep them sharp.

  • With a blunt blade you won't be able to penetrate the ice efficiently

  • and that will just make a very poor ice climbing experience

  • So, there a bit of maintenance when handling ice axes.

  • I will be doing a vlog on a later time regarding

  • how you actually maintain your ice axes

  • and how you keep the pick sharp.

  • But if you have some tips of your own leave a comment below.

  • So, one feature that is often overlooked

  • that's the eye at the top of the shaft.

  • This is for placing carabiners, so you can use the axe as a deadman anchor

  • buy burying it in the snow.

  • But one thing I also use the eye for

  • that is to stash my ice axe on an ice clipper on my climbing harness

  • when I need both hands.

  • So, having a big eye like the Grivel Tech Machine

  • is definitely something that would help.

  • And as you can see on the Petzl Nomic and the Petzl Quark (2018)

  • the eye is much smaller

  • making it a bit harder to clip it on your climbing harness

  • or getting a carabiner through.

  • Most ice axes are modular built

  • meaning that you can actually switch different parts if you want to.

  • Like the Grivel Tech Machine, where you can get different blades

  • for mixed climbing or dedicated ice climbing.

  • or you can add a hammer or and adze.

  • Or, with the Petzl Nomic, where you can actually add some weights

  • to get some more swing.

  • On mixed terrain, where you need to place a 'Bulldog' in an icy crack

  • or in frozen turf.

  • And then a hammer would be really efficient.

  • Or, if you have to dig out some space to pitch a tent

  • then the adze help you doing that.

  • But if you are looking for dedicated ice climbing axes

  • a hammer and an adze are less important.

  • So, another thing when choosing the best ice climbing axe

  • that is to look at the handle itself.

  • You need to consider that you are climbing in thick gloves

  • and you need a handle that can suit that.

  • On some of the ice climbing axes

  • like the Black Diamond Fuel

  • you can actually adjust the handle

  • by setting in some small rings.

  • Something that I really, really like about that design.

  • As oppose to the Grivel Tech Machine that you can't adjust at all.

  • Something that is pretty important for alpine climbing

  • that is the spike at the bottom

  • Some ice climbing axes have these.

  • Others don't.

  • But what you use this feature for

  • is when you are hiking in

  • or you are crossing a glacier

  • you can use the ice climbing axe as a kind of a trekking pole.

  • to help you keep your balance.

  • So, I guess whether you want to prioritize this

  • is something that relies on

  • whether you are doing dedicated ice climbing

  • or you might see yourself doing some alpine climbing too.

  • If you are new to ice climbing

  • I would definitely recommend that

  • you climb with leashes.

  • A leash is an elastric string

  • that attaches the ice climbing axe to your climbing harness

  • meaning that should you take a fall or you drop you ice axe

  • it is not lost.

  • And even though I become more experienced, I must admit

  • that I still use leashes at some points of times.

  • Especially on multi-pitch ice climbing, where I don't want to loose my ice axes.

  • You attach the leashes to the ice climbing axe

  • on the spike at the bottom, where there usually is an eye for that.

  • But as you can see on the Petzl Nomic this kinda lacks

  • there is a hole in the handle itself

  • which I really don't understand why they put there

  • because it will just be in the way for your hand.

  • But as you can see on, both for the Petzl Quark (2018), the Grivel Tech Machine

  • and the Black Diamond Fuel there is plenty of room for that.

  • So I really hope that these tips

  • have helped you out on deciding

  • which is the best ice climbing axe for you.

  • And if not...

  • Leave a comment below with your questions

  • and let's answer them together.

If you want to know how to pick the best ice climbing axe?

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RIGHTで最高のアイスアックスやアイスツールの選び方(2019年)|クライミングVlog Ep.14 (How to choose the RIGHT and best ice axe or ice tool (2019) | Climbing Vlog Ep. 14)

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    Jane Chang に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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