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Hi there, my name is Tyler with TimefireVR.
This video will be the first in a
three-part series going over
a king and knight chestpiece.
Part one will go over the
low and high poly of the king
and the beginnings of the high poly for the knight.
The second part will finish up the knight high poly
and part three will cover the knight low poly.
To start out I'm making a low poly
for the king from an edge that will
be used to create the full silhouette with a spin.
Because of the workflow I'm using
I don't need to worry too much about rounding the edges.
I just need the extremes which will be smoothed after
applying a subdivision surface modifier later.
Adding a "spin" will create a lathe
type effect that will create the full
shape I'm going for.
You should adjust the number of steps or vertical edges
based on the size of the object
in engine or in relation to other objects.
These pieces are going to almost be
player size so it needs a few extra steps.
You can see I get ahead of myself
and duplicate, then delete.
Before duplicating the mesh I need to make it
watertight because it can be flipped over in engine.
Once that's done I can
then duplicate and make a version that
will get a sub surface modifier.
Starting on the high poly version now I
switch the mesh to wireframe so i can
see through to the reference and then
add the subdivision modifier to start
with the control loops.
A large chunk forward is working with control loops to
get harder edges where the sub surface
modifier is smoothing or averaging
I try to have a chunkier, smoother edge
than what the asset may have in real life.
This will give the normal map a larger
range of pixels to work with resulting
in better base with less artifacts and seams.
I often do a few passes on spreading
out the control loopd until I think
they're good for baking which will then
get tweaked further after a test bake.
You'll also notice not everything gets
a control loop.
There's a few different ways I manipulate the high poly
and meshes in general.
The initial creation
of the mesh and I'm focusing on the large, main shapes.
These are the secondary
details the bevels and medium shapes.
For sharper control on edges, I'll drag a
control loop towards the edge from both sides.
This will reduce the amount of
subsurface modifier has to average
effectively making the end sharper.
For larger rounder shapes you can bevel the
edge creating two or three edges.
Then scale or remove the center edge for
varying results until you're happy.
To make deep cuts, grab an edge or create
one with Ctrl+R wherever you want the cut to be.
Then bevel the edges to
make a total of at least three edges.
The center edge is what will get scaled or
moved in the direction you want the cut.
Support loops may be needed depending on
the result you're after.
With that high poly done we skipped
forward to the base of the knight.
For all the pieces, after the king I duplicated
the bases and modified accordingly.
The knight has a slightly different base so
needs edits before starting the actual horse.
I start the horse head with a simple cube
For a more accurate
placement i select an edge ring at the
top of the base and center the pivots
at that location.
I slice down the middle, delete half
and mirror but end up using just a plane.
Less verts to keep track of in a side orthographic view.
From here I’m starting out
with the big general shapes again.
I want to work with as few verts
as possible to stay loose.
From the plane, I select verts or edges and extrude,
remembering to create polys and not tris.
This helps immensely later on in the finer details.
It's also important to
note a difference in similar hotkeys
for this workflow.
When connecting verts across NO face
you can select the two and hit "F".
If you are connecting two verts across a face,
you must use "J" otherwise the face will
not split into two phases.
I'm filling out the silhouette a little
now by pulling edges and verts out along the Y.
This will help with shadows and
visualization while working.
Ultimately I'm not super concerned with
being accurate to the final thickness yet
but the general idea can help.
From here I can continue to pull out verts
generally following the curves and lines
of the reference.
Personally I like working with just the
verts initially and then going through
to add in the polys.
It feels faster to me and I can still see the reference
without switching the wire mode.
There's a lot of orbiting going on at
this point and moving forward which is a
direct result of adding in some depth or
thickness to the mesh.
I want to make sure it's looking right from all angles
especially since it can be picked up
and looked at in VR.
I’ve now added the sub surf modifier so I can see what
the geometry I have so far is doing.
I end up just turning the visibility off
and continue modifying the mesh.
Also important to note that I'm not working
from the reference as much as other pieces.
I have a concept I've doodled
that more closely represents what I want
which is then supplemented by an
additional reference on another screen.
At this point there's a lot of small
tweaks all over getting closer to a silhouette I want.
I want to get these base shaped figured out
and solid before I move on to the
smaller details and start adding in more loops.
These edits are coming from the
reference I have scene, the concept I made
which is on my desk and reference
of horse anatomy on another screen.
Another useful tip is working all over
the model and being as loose as possible,
much like you would in the early stages of a painting.
This helps me keep all the verts moving and useful.
Now working a lot on the thickness of
the mesh trying to be somewhat
respectful to the underlying musculature.
I don't want this horse to be super
realistic more of a smoother stylized
representation to go with the set and
keep dev time down.
Another quick session of orbiting around
the mesh to check all the angles of
silhouette before moving on to more
general tweaks.
I'm adding in a Matcap now so I can see
shadows and highlights a little easier.
This helps with seeing exactly what your
shapes are doing especially on a high poly.
As said earlier, I want to make sure
every vert and edge doing something.
I don't like a lot of flat surfaces on
an organic model, which is why I go through
the neck and start lifting verts.
Important to also note I'm shaping the
geometry to bend with the curve of neck.
This helps out later when adding
in control loops for the finer details while
maintaining a fairly clean mesh to get a low poly from.
And with that we conclude the first
video of the Low and High Poly Workflow.
Check out part 2 where I'll go over
creating the hair and ears.
Then I'll finish up the high poly with some edge loops
and small tweaks
Be sure to let us know what you thought of part one! of
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