字幕表 動画を再生する
(Waves crashing)
♫ (Ambient Music) ♫
- Rip currents are really dangerous.
The current is so strong that most people
can't even swim against it
and will get pulled right out.
Even, in some cases, an Olympic swimmer
will get pulled out.
A rip current is a small coastal stream that flows out
through the surf zone.
When you come to the beach, you'll see surf breaking
then you'll see a calm spot.
That calm spot's usually where the rip current
is between the breakers.
It's deceiving because that area is the calmest
and it's where most people would think,
"Well, this looks like a good place to wade."
That area's the dangerous part.
Where you really want to go
are where the waves are the biggest.
(Wave crashes)
Ocean Beach is a very dangerous beach
and it's considered one of the most dangerous beaches
because of the rip currents on the beach.
See the drainage into here?
The holes?
The shallow area?
Wave's gonna come up in here and it's gonna
all channel into here.
It'll snap and it'll flow out.
It'll find the least path of resistance basically.
That'll be a little channel going out.
It doesn't have to be a huge channel,
just has to be a depression in the sand,
the topography below the water.
It can go anywhere from two meters a second
to eight meters a second.
That's why you need to pay attention to the ocean
and not get sucked into these things.
When you go to the beach, go with a friend,
go with a buddy.
Someone to keep an eye on you
and you can keep an eye on them.
The first thing to remember if you do get caught
in a rip current is to remain calm.
The rip current will only take you out
past the breakers.
It won't pull you down.
It won't take you way, way out into the ocean.
Relaxed, get your bearings, see where you are,
and see how fast you're going out.
Don't swim against and don't fight against the current,
just let it take you out beyond the breakers.
Float there, find your bearings, swim parallel to shore
for about 25 yards or so.
You'll be out of the rip current most of the time
and then swim, surf the waves, basically,
back to the beach.
On all the beaches in California,
you should always look out for the ocean.
You should never turn your back on the ocean.
If you can't swim, you should never go in the water.
You should always learn to swim.
If you're wondering about going out, don't go out.
When in doubt, don't go out.