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  • Hello and welcome to this Easy Composites video tutorial. In this series which is probably

  • the most ambitious we'll ever take on we're going to be answering the question that we

  • get asked more often than any other, which is how to make you're own carbon fibre vehicle

  • panels like this car bonnet that you see here. In the tutorial we're going to be showing

  • you every single step along the way including making the mould, making the parts, bonding

  • the parts together, trimming and finishing to enable you to make your own incredibly

  • light, incredibly strong perfectly finished carbon fibre panels. We really hope you enjoy

  • it. The first step in our process is to take this original steel bonnet which we're using

  • as our pattern. We're going to add barriers all the way around the outside of it so that

  • when we make our mould we actually created a mould with a flange on, and that flange

  • will add stiffness to the mould and it will also give us plenty of opportunity to position

  • the bagging consumables and things for the resin process. Before we actually apply any

  • barriers to this part we're just going to take the opportunity to put down a full background

  • layer of release agent. We're using Easy Lease which is a chemical release agent and of cause

  • this is what's going to stop the gel coat from sticking to the part but while we've

  • got the bonnet in this state it's much easier to ensure that we've got everywhere covered

  • and then we'll probably do another application later on. Making barriers can be tricky. The

  • technique that we've developed is to use corrugated signboard for the barriers themselves and

  • the bond those to the underside of the part using hot melt glue. So the first thing to

  • do is to use masking tape to actually make a template around the edge of the part and

  • then we'll transfer that onto the signboard and cut the barriers themselves. So with the

  • masking tape all the way around the edge of the part it's a case of just marking up where

  • we're actually going to make the barrier pieces in separate sections and we also at the same

  • time just draw on the angle that we're going to cut the barrier sections at and finally

  • number them so we can identify them. So we're going to have a cut line here and a cut line

  • coming off at this angle here. Then this will all be one piece and we'll have cut lines

  • on the barrier about there. The masking tape comes off the part extremely easily. So we're

  • just going to start it off and then cut it into the parts that we've identified, being

  • careful not to rip the tape. So we're transferring this line here onto the board. We know the

  • angles that we want to make the barriers at. Once we've marked out all these templates

  • we're just going to cut them out with a sharp knife and then position them around the outside

  • of the part. we're working on the underside of the bonnet now where we're going to be positioning

  • this barrier. Now the way we're going to do that is we're going to apply masking tape

  • to the edge on the underside of the bonnet here and then we're going to be using hot

  • melt glue on the masking tape and then on the barrier. the reason for the masking tape

  • is so that this barrier is quite easy to remove when we're done with the process. So we can

  • get started with that with the masking tape. We've got masking tape all the way along this

  • top edge so now it's time to use hot melt glue gun we're going to just put a bead of

  • glue all the way along the top edge and then stick the barrier to it. We've now flipped

  • this bonnet over just before we do the wax we're actually going to use a release tape

  • to actually just seal these joins, or a breaker tape and that's just going to prevent again

  • any of the gel coat from running down into the gap. So we just take the tape and tape

  • the seam and because it's a release tape the resin and the gel coat won't stick to it.

  • So the next step is to us a yellow filleting wax to actually create a bead all the way

  • around the edge between the bonnet onto the flange and what that will do is stops the

  • gel coat from running under and locking in and also gives us a nice smooth transition

  • so that when we've got the mould the parts themselves are going to release nicely and

  • they're not going to get caught up or mechanically locked on this edge. So we've put the filleting

  • wax all the way around the outside now and you can see from this close up what we want

  • to do is always be sure that when you put the wax down you've got what's called a draft

  • angle and that's going to mean that when we remove the part of separate the part and the

  • mould that there's not going to be a mechanically lock. We're now ready to put the proper coat

  • of release agent onto the bonnet and we're going to apply two coats of the Easy Lease

  • all the way over the surface of the panel. Now the filleting wax doesn't requite a release

  • agent and in fact will actually get dragged off by the release agent if we're not careful

  • so we're not going to apply any release agent to the wax. We are going to apply the release

  • agent onto the barrier itself just in case there's any contamination. It is made from

  • polypropylene so it shouldn't stick but just in case it does we're going to give it a coat

  • over as well. We've now left this a good half an hour to fully dry off and we're actually

  • going to apply two coats of wax all the way over the top of this the steel bonnet part.

  • Now usually we wouldn't use a wax on top of a release agent. A chemical release agent

  • generally works on its own however in the case of going from a pattern to the mould

  • itself we want to be absolutely sure that we're not going to have any problems with

  • the release and so having the chemical release agent and the wax although it's a slightly

  • unusual combination is going to ensure that we do have no release problems. We're now

  • buffing off the wax having left it about five or ten minutes and you just really want the

  • lightest possible pressure when you're doing this just using a micro fibre cloth here and

  • just skimming over the surface and you can see the shine start to emerge. Right so we've

  • now left the wax to fully harden off which is roundabout half an hour or something like

  • that and so it's actually time to make the mould itself. So we're going to be using a

  • very versatile tooling system called Uni-Mould and the Uni-Mould system comprises a tooling

  • gel coat which is a vinylester tooling coat. Now the reason we're using vinylester is that

  • that's actually compatible with polyester resin, vinylester resin but most importantly

  • for us epoxy resin and it will guarantee an excellent release of the parts out of the

  • mould which you wouldn't get with a normal polyester gel coat. The Uni-Mould system then

  • uses a coupling coat which is reinforced coupling coat we actually add a lightweight chopped

  • strand mat in with that which forms the connection between the tooling gel and then the tooling

  • resin itself. Applying the gel coat now we can do this in either two thin coats or one

  • thicker coat. We'd be targeting in a single thick coat of a roundabout 0.8 mm. Now for

  • a bonnet this size we're looking at mixing up a roundabout 700 grams of gel coat if you

  • mix up too little and you come up short you can always mix up some more. We're using normal

  • MEKP catalyst and a ratio of about 1.5 to 2 percent. So for 700 grams of the gel coat

  • that would obviously be 14 grams at 2 percent of the catalyst. Applying the gel coat is

  • totally straightforward covering it and we're going for that approximately 1 mm which is

  • a reasonably thick application. We've now allowed this gel coat to cure to the right

  • point. It's certainly very much firmed up but it's still got a very slight level of

  • tack which is the right point for a gel coat. So in the Un-Mould system it's now time to

  • add the coupling coat. As we say we've got a light chopped strand mat, we're using a

  • 225 gram here. This is really as heavy as you would want to go at the coupling coat

  • stage, you could go lighter and we're going to be wetting this through with the coupling

  • coat. Again this is catalysed at a ratio of about 1.5 to 2 percent we're going to be catalysing

  • it about 2 percent and we're going to use a full kilo on this layer. When the coupling

  • coat has been fully catalysed it does actually change to a darker colour so you can tell

  • it's ready to go. Now when you're working with he coupling coat it's just like any chopped

  • strand laminating so you apply the resin to the part first and then drop the glass mat

  • down onto the resin and then wet it through from above. The light chopped strand provides

  • reinforcement at this early stage but because its a light mat it's very easy to get it down

  • into the contours of a mould which ensures that you're not going to have any voids between

  • the gel coat and the main tooling reinforcement and the coupling coat itself chemically is

  • designed to act as an interface between this vinylester tooling gel coat and the tooling

  • resin itself. We've now allowed this coupling coat to cure in our case its taken around

  • three hours and it's very much firm to the touch but it got a slight tack and that's

  • the right point for us to go on with the main reinforcement. Now because we're using the

  • Uni-Mould tooling system we're going to be putting down all of the reinforcement and

  • the resin in one hit. The Uni-Mould tooling resin is a filled resin system so it's very

  • important to thoroughly mix up the contents and we'll also give it a quick stir to make

  • sure that any sediment or fillers are thoroughly mixed in to the resin. With the resin catalysed

  • at between 1 and 2 percent, we've used 2 percent because it's only a small mould we're then

  • going to apply the resin all the way over the surface and start building up this chopped

  • strand mat. So we want to work reasonably quickly and get it all down in one hit. We've

  • now allowed this to cure fully overnight as you can see the colour of the mould has changed

  • to a lighter shade indicating that the exotherm has taken place and so we're going to turn

  • the mould over and without removing the bonnet we're going to look at making the moulding

  • for the inner skin. Okay so we're now going to remove the temporary barriers that we put

  • in place. And you can see the why we signboard its released perfectly from the tooling gel

  • coat. we're going to be using the flange from the upper mould as the flange for the lower

  • mould and so what we're going to do is leave most of this filleting wax in place but we're

  • just going to ensure that it's nice and smooth so that its acts again as a fillet between

  • the flange and the inner mould that we're going to make. So we're looking at the underside

  • of the bonnet now. We've got lots of holes as you can see that have been cut out, die

  • stamped out of this inner skin we need to blank all of these of which we'll be using

  • release tape for and we've also got these studs here that were for the hinge mechanism

  • and the latch at the front. Now because we're happy to sacrifice the bonnet in this case

  • we're going to grind these off and again grind the latch mechanism off. If you didn't want

  • to sacrifice the bonnet and you want to keep it useable then you could blank these off

  • using plasticize or something similar and then make the mould around them but for simplicity

  • we're just going to grind them off. So applying the release tape to mask off these holes on

  • the underside of the bonnet. We just pull the tape tight over the hole and press it

  • down firmly. So where we've ground off this latch mechanism we're going to tape all the

  • way over this using the release tape. And the tape should be sufficiently strong that

  • we won't need any other reinforcement over that area. So we're applying the Easy Lease

  • chemical release agent all the way over the surface of the inside of this part and very

  • importantly this time round on the flanges as well. We'll be applying two applications

  • of the chemical release agent and then we'll be following up with two coats of wax making

  • sure on this occasion that we thoroughly wax the flange. Where you can see the upper moulding

  • meeting the lower moulding and we've got this gap here we need to thoroughly fill that with

  • the wax fillet to prevent the tooling coat from running under there and sticking. So

  • we just put in a large bead of wax and then smooth it out in just the way we've been doing

  • elsewhere. So if we just take a quick tour now of what we've done before we put the gel

  • coat on. We've got release tape over all of the catch mechanisms we've got any interior

  • holes we've filled with release tape and again we've cut those to be nice and neat. On these

  • areas where we've got a bit of undercut on the actual steel of the bonnet we've completely

  • filled that with filleting wax as we did with this awkward corner. And you can also see

  • how we finished that middle edge. Okay so we've just mixed up a new batch of the tooling

  • gel coat and we're just going to apply this all the way over the surface of the inside

  • of this mould just like we did on the top mould. Again we're going for that target 0.8

  • mm thickness which is a reasonably thick brush application. now that the gel has cured we're

  • just going to put down another coupling coat exactly as we did before. here again we're

  • using the 225 gram glass but another excellent option for the coupling coat is something

  • even lighter like a couple of layers of an 80 gram. So the coupling coat has no cured

  • of and it's time for the main reinforcement again. Just like before we'll be applying

  • all of the reinforcement and the tooling resin in one session. We'll be using four layers

  • of the 450 gram chopped strand mat. So that's the underside of this mould finished so we'll

  • allow this to cure fully overnight and then tomorrow we'll be trimming these and separating

  • them. This mould has fully cured now so we've marked up a trim line all the way round the

  • edge equally spaced to where we know the bonnet comes to. And so now we're going to trim them

  • apart to separate them. We're going to be using a jigsaw cutter to trim the two moulds

  • and we're using a permagrit blade which is a tungsten carbide blade in the jigsaw. With

  • the mould fully trimmed it's now time to some extent for the moment of truth and what we're

  • going to do is separate the upper and lowers moulds. So to do it we're going to be using

  • a chisel and trying to insert it between the two layers of gel coat and then just tapping

  • that in with a hammer, I think we can hear the moulds releasing. So we're just going

  • to insert lollypop sticks now. That's sounding good. So that's our upper bonnet moulding

  • done now and it's just time to remove the bonnet itself from this lower tool. We'll

  • be looking at doing this underside moulding first because it's actually slightly more

  • complicated than the upper moulding. So the first things that we'll do are pretty self

  • explanatory we'll strip off any of the filleting wax that's on the underside of the moulding.

  • We'll also be looking at taking off any of the release tape. And finally if there's any

  • blemishes such as this one here then we'll just be filling some gel into those areas.

  • You'll fine that a chemical mould cleaner like this will quickly and easily strip off

  • the filleting wax and any other contamination from the mould surface. So this area that

  • you can see here, I think the paint actually wrinkled up on the underside of the bonnet

  • and it's left this blemish here so what we're going to do is chisel out all of the paint

  • and some of the gel coat so that we've got some fresh material and then we're going to

  • put some new tooling gel coat into this blemished area and sand it smooth. So to make a repair

  • like this what we do is we mix up just a small amount of the Uni-Mould tooling gel coat a

  • few drops of wax additive and the wax additive prevents the gel coat from staying tacky on

  • the surface where it comes into contact with air like a gel coat would normally do. Once

  • the gel coat has hardened up and you can see that the wax additive that we included has

  • meant that there's no tackiness here then we can start wet sanding and flatting. So

  • we've flatted this out nicely now using the wet and dry paper, we're just finishing it

  • off with a 1200 grit before we go on and use polishing compound which we can either apply

  • by hand or as we're going to do using a polishing wheel. Although both of these tools are now

  • pretty much ready to use as they are to give this a real professional finish what we're

  • going to do on this top mould is give this a wet flat all over with a 1200 grit and then

  • we're going to polish it all over using an intermediate polishing compound like this

  • Mirka T10. The reason for wanting to give it that flat on the surface is if you just

  • catch the reflection here of the light you can just see a very very slightly texture

  • to the surface and that's partly print through from the chopped strand mat underneath and

  • other just surface imperfections on the original bonnet. We've now polished both of these moulds

  • up to a high standard and so that actually concludes the fist part in this video series.

  • In the next instalment we're going to be looking at using both of these moulds to produce the

  • parts themselves using the resin infusion process. I really hope that you've enjoyed

  • this video. For more information or to purchase any of the products that we've used in this

  • video please visit our website easycomposites.co.uk.

Hello and welcome to this Easy Composites video tutorial. In this series which is probably

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B2 中上級

カーボンファイバーカーボンネット/フードの作り方 - パート1/3 (How to Make a Carbon Fiber Car Bonnet/Hood - Part 1/3)

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    鄭富仁 に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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