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To the End of the World
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port is a small town in
southwest France, sitting in the foothills
of the Pyrenees mountains.
It would be totally unknown if it weren't for the fact
that it's the traditional starting point for the
Camino de Santiago, a 540-mile historic pilgrimage
across northern Spain.
That's why I ended up there, anyway.
Okay, so I just got the pilgrims' credencial.
It's a passport that you use on the Camino.
Normally, my brother and I meet every year
for a backpacking adventure.
Hank: We've made it to the top of the North Rim
of the Grand Canyon on January 1st!
But he couldn't do it this year because he got married
and needed his vacation time for his honeymoon.
So, sad that I'd be walking alone,
I decided to head out on the Camino de Santiago by myself
with a plan to walk all the way across Spain
to a lighthouse on the ocean.
This is the door to Spain and the Napoleon Route.
So, onto the Pyrenees!
People come from all over the world to walk the Camino
and a lot of them want their Caminos to be inward, spiritual journeys
as well as physical ones.
(Brock Currie) I'm doing the Camino because
the Camino is happening from here to here.
And, walking the Camino with so many other international
representatives of the world gives me a great deal of hope.
And I find myself marveling at
the beauty of the common spirit.
I'm not exactly sure why I'm doing the Camino de Santiago.
Really, the main reason is just for the adventure.
So, I'm not sure if I really believe
in the transformative aspect of it.
On the first day, I took the Napoleon Route,
a notoriously difficult, 25-kilometer climb over the Pyrenees.
It is pretty tiring. It's straight uphill the whole way.
If it anyone tells you the Camino de Santiago is easy, it is not.
It's quite a view up here though.
And it wasn't long before my fears
of being lonely disappeared.
These guys are hiking with me. This is
Katie, Mosta, and Grant & Ashley.
And, we are halfway to Pamplona!
But, by day three, I realized that, maybe, sitting in an office
for six months wasn't the best way to train for this trip.
It's a beautiful morning here.
This is supposed to be the easiest day so far, so,
that should help because
I have horrible blisters on the bottom of my feet.
I'm on the way to Pamplona, and I have three blisters
that are like pressure blisters on the bottom of my feet
and they hurt like a-- like crazy. Ugh.
Why am I doing this?
I mean, if it's this painful the whole time,
there's going to be some serious questions that need to be asked about
whether I really need to go the full 35 days.
But, wow, my feet hurt right now.
But, I was almost to Pamplona, so I kept going.
So, I'm here with Ky, a friend of mine from Germany.
We're hiking here through the city of Pamplona.
The strange thing about this is that we've been hiking
across the Spanish countryside, now, for days,
and, suddenly, we've just walked right into a huge city.
And there's music everywhere,
and it's pretty jolting and strange.
But, my feet hurt like crazy.
But I was happy I made there.
We've been having a picnic in the Pamplona park here
with some tasty...
(Ashley) ...morsels!
(Hank) Grant, how excited are you about this sandwich?!
Grant: Aw, yeah!
(Hank) Ashley, are you excited for this sandwich?
Ashley: Oh, yeah!
(Hank) Katie, how is it?
Katie: Number one sandwich.
So, I'm here in a restaurant here in Pamplona,
and, as you can see, we've finished
one, two, three, four, five, six
pitchers of Sangria!
(Hank) Katie, how are you feeling right now?
Amazing!
Uh, yeah. We've been drinking sangria all afternoon and
suddenly we have more energy than we've ever had on the Camino.
We're ready to do a whole other stage this afternoon.
(Hank) Ky, what do you think of the--
what do you think of the sangria?
It's pretty good.
But, in the morning, my blisters were so painful,
I could barely walk.
There was no way I could keep up with
Katie, Ky, Mosta, Grant & Ashley,
and they quickly left me behind.
It's the morning of day four, and things are
not looking good for me right now.
My blisters on my feet hurt so much.
I'm not sure I can hike today.
I'm going to start trying to hike and see how far I can get.
One of the things that's really interesting about the Camino
is the transitory nature of the relationships you have with
the people that you meet on the trail.
You're hiking and everyone hikes at different speeds
so you might meet someone on the trail
and you really like them; they seem great. But,
turns out they're hiking a lot faster than you,
and, suddenly, you talk to them for 10 minutes, and then
you walk away ahead of them, and you realize you may
never see them again for the rest of your life.
But, I kept going.
My feet hurt so much that I was walking at a quarter
of my normal speed, but at least I made it to the next town.
I've only walked half the day today from Pamplona,
but my feet just can't take it anymore; the blisters are so bad.
So, I'm going to stay here overnight and see how that goes.
I'm really pissed off and disappointed.
But my foot pain turned out to be a
blessing in disguise that day.
Stuck in town, I met up with Amalie.
I was really angry yesterday because
my blisters were hurting like crazy
and I only walked half the day.
But, I put threads and needles in my blisters yesterday:
tried to drain them out.
So, today I'm here with Amalie.
Amalie: Hi!
Hank: Who you can see right there.
And we're going to try to hike and see if my feet work.
Amalie and I walked together through rolling hills,
blanketed with thousands of green stalks of wheat,
shivering in the breeze.
When she told me that she was a medical student
walking the Camino to decide on her specialty
and to find an American's Netflix password to steal,
our shared sense of humor made us best friends
almost immediately.
(Hank) What are you eating?
Oh, you're video taping this?
(Hank) Mm hm.
I'm eating a snack pepper. That is some thing.
That's a thing.
(Hank) How long-- how many days have you been
carrying that in your pack?
I'd rather not tell.
But, with every step, my blisters only got worse.
Things have gotten pretty desperate here on the Camino.
We're taking these pads,
which are usually used for something else,
and we're trying to put them in our shoes
to make the blisters go away by reducing moisture.
I have no idea if this is going to work,
but, anything that could work, we're trying.
I'm here with Amalie.
I'm at the Centro de Salud which is the
health center here.
My blisters have gotten so bad on my feet that
I am ready to cut off my feet but instead of
cutting off my feet, I thought I would try
going to the Spanish doctor and see what
they want to do, especially because I want to make sure
it's not infected.
I have two nurses fixing my feet.
So, hopefully, I will be able to walk again soon.
But, boy, it hurts.
While the nurses worked to bandage and clean my feet,
the doctor was clear with me about one thing:
I had to stop walking for three days.
It's a pretty sad day on the Camino.
Amalie couldn't stop her Camino just because
my feet were hurting, so she had to hike out this morning.
And, so, I had to have a sad moment where
we said goodbye, and I may never see her again.