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  • Hi, I'm Rick Steves,

  • back with more of the best of Europe.

  • As always, we're sampling the local culture,

  • and around here, that means great beer.

  • We're in Prague, in the Czech Republic.

  • Thanks for joining us.

  • Prague, which escaped the bombs of last century's wars,

  • is one of Europe's best-preserved cities.

  • Its nickname: "the Golden City of a Hundred Spires."

  • And, beyond its striking facades, it's an accessible city,

  • with a story to tell and plenty to experience.

  • We'll explore Prague,

  • filled with exuberant architecture

  • and slinky, sensuous Art Nouveau.

  • With music spilling into the streets...

  • And colorful pubs serving up some of the best beer in Europe,

  • it's a city thriving with visitors.

  • We'll take in sights ranging from Europe's

  • most interesting Jewish Quarter

  • to Prague's in-love-with-life Charles Bridge.

  • Buried in the center of Europe is the Czech Republic

  • and its capital and dominant city, Prague.

  • Prague, straddling the Vltava River,

  • is easy on foot, with highlights

  • like Wenceslas Square, the Old Town Square,

  • Charles Bridge, and the cathedral

  • up in the castle all within about an hour's walk.

  • The 14th century was Prague's Golden Age --

  • the Holy Roman Emperor ruled from here.

  • Back then, this was one of Europe's

  • largest and most highly cultured cities.

  • Until about 1800,

  • Prague was four separate and fortified towns:

  • The Castle Town, for a thousand years

  • the home of the Czech ruler.

  • The Little Town, where nobles would live

  • to be close to the king.

  • The Old Town, with its magnificent market square.

  • And the New Town, with the grand Wenceslas Square

  • providing a stage for this country's

  • tumultuous 20th century history.

  • Prague's four gloomy decades of Communist control

  • feels like a distant memory,

  • as the city is bursting with pent-up entrepreneurial energy.

  • Everything, from the buildings like the Dancing House --

  • nicknamed Fred and Ginger --

  • to the vibrant crowds in the streets,

  • seem to celebrate Czech freedom.

  • Charles Bridge was commissioned in the 14th century

  • by the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV.

  • It offers one of the most pleasant strolls in Europe.

  • This bridge is part of the historic coronation route

  • called the Royal Way.

  • Coronation processions started above at the cathedral,

  • where the king was crowned.

  • From there they crossed this bridge

  • and headed for the Old Town Square.

  • Today the final stretch of the Royal Way

  • is a commercial gauntlet

  • lined with Prague's most playful diversions.

  • Like main drags throughout Europe,

  • this walk mesmerizes visitors.

  • Use it as a spine,

  • but make a point to venture beyond.

  • Prague is flourishing with inviting lanes

  • and vibrant markets.

  • Today, as they have since medieval times,

  • Prague's farmers markets

  • keep both hungry locals and visitors well-fed.

  • Every time I come to Prague, my tour guide friend, Lida,

  • keeps trying to teach me a little more Czech.

  • Can you teach me four important words in Czech?

  • LIDA: Don't you remember them?

  • After so many years.

  • I'm completely beginning.

  • Okay. You are my friend.

  • -Yes. -Hello, ahoj.

  • -Ahoj. -Ahoj, very good.

  • Ahoj, okay.

  • More formal. Dobry den.

  • Dobry den, dobry den.

  • So dobry is good, den is day, good day.

  • Dobry den.

  • Magic word: Please.

  • Prosím.

  • -Prosím. -Be careful to pronounce

  • the M in the end,

  • because the Czech is very perfect, exact language.

  • Prosím.

  • Prosím. Prosím.

  • -Very good. -Okay.

  • And another magic word: Thank you.

  • Dekuji.

  • -Dekuji. -A little bit softer.

  • Dekuji.

  • -Dekuji. -Very well.

  • Dekuji. Thank you. Nice.

  • Thank you, dekuji.

  • Okay, so, dobry den, dekuji,

  • prosím, ahoj.

  • -Ahoj. -And how do you say good-bye?

  • Ahoj!

  • It's the same.

  • -Ahoj, like hello. -Yes, exactly.

  • Hello, good-bye. Ahoj, ahoj.

  • It's either.

  • STEVES: I'll test my new language skills

  • for the price of some local fruit.

  • Okay, let's practice what you've taught me.

  • Yeah. Oh, look, plums are in season.

  • Good. Dobry den.

  • -Dobry den. -Dobry den.

  • How do you say "plums"?

  • -Svestky. -And five?

  • -Pet. -Pet svestky prosím.

  • Prosím?

  • LIDA:Prosím, yeah.

  • And then dobro, very good.

  • Dobro. Good. This okay?

  • -Dekuji. -Dekuji.

  • -Ahoj. -Ahoj.

  • These will be great, that worked.

  • Prague's Old Town Square,

  • once just another farmers market,

  • is now the heart of the city, but today,

  • the commerce is clearly tourism.

  • The fanciful Gothic Tyn Church soars over everything

  • as if to remind tourists

  • lots of religious history took place right here.

  • Back in the 15th century,

  • some Christians were beginning to struggle against

  • Roman Catholic dominance.

  • This was Prague's leading Hussite church.

  • Hussites were followers of Jan Hus,

  • whose statue graces the square.

  • He was a local preacher who got in trouble

  • with the Vatican a hundred years before

  • Martin Luther and the Reformation.

  • The chalice is a symbol of Hus and his followers,

  • who believed everyone, not just priests,

  • should be able to partake in the Eucharist,

  • or the Holy Communion.

  • These days, the biggest crowds gather at

  • the 15th century Astronomical Clock

  • back on the Old Town Square.

  • The two dials seem to tell you

  • everything you could possibly want to know.

  • It tells the phases of the moon, sunset,

  • current signs of the Zodiac,

  • each day's special saint, and,

  • somehow, it even tells the time.

  • And of course, 500 years ago,

  • everything revolved around the earth.

  • At the top of the hour, Death tips his hourglass

  • and pulls the cord.

  • The windows open as the twelve apostles parade by,

  • acknowledging the gang of onlookers.

  • The rooster crows...

  • And finally, the bell rings.

  • But my favorite part of the show is watching the crowd gawk.

  • Prague has long been a mecca for musicians.

  • Mozart loved the place.

  • His operaDon Giovanni debuted just around the corner.

  • Antonín Dvorák lived and composed right here.

  • And today, that enthusiasm for music lives on.

  • Box offices around town give you all the options --

  • theater, opera, jazz, and classical.

  • Tickets are cheap,

  • about half what you'd pay in Vienna.

  • Racks of fliers show what's on,

  • and with this wall of photos,

  • you can choose just the right venue.

  • There's chamber music all over town.

  • We're enjoying a string quartet.

  • It's Vivaldi in the Chapel of Mirrors.

  • Enjoying Baroque music in a Baroque space like this,

  • the music takes on an extra dimension.

  • Prague Castle, towering above the town,

  • dominates the west side of the Vltava River,

  • also known as the Moldau.

  • It's a complex of churches and palaces

  • encircled by mighty walls.

  • For a thousand years, Prague has been ruled from here.

  • Even today, the Czech president works within its gates.

  • The changing of the guard adds a dose of formality.

  • And for some entertaining informality,

  • a quartet called the Prague Castle Orchestra

  • is playing just outside.

  • Their forte?

  • Songs that resonate with the Czech people.

  • I'm meeting another friend, Honza Vihan,

  • who helps me guide tours and research guidebooks.

  • He's joining us

  • for a sweep through Prague's history.

  • This piece just brings out emotion, doesn't it?

  • Yeah, the song is very important to the Czech people.

  • It's "The Moldau," or Vltava, by Smetana.

  • So that's the river here.

  • It's named after the river.

  • It's like the blood of the Czech people,

  • and wherever you go in the world,

  • you can just think of this tune

  • and it's like being back home.

  • STEVES: The castle complex is... complex, and vast as well,

  • with noble palaces,

  • ancient churches, and grand banqueting halls.

  • While you could easily spend all day within its walls,

  • the one essential stop is St. Vitus Cathedral.

  • The church is Gothic, started in the 1300s,

  • but not finished for centuries.

  • Inside, the clean, high Gothic lines

  • and vast windows create a space that's quintessentially Gothic,

  • full of light and uplifting.

  • Visitors are dwarfed by the scale

  • and wowed by the beauty.

  • A stunning Art Nouveau window created by Alphonse Mucha

  • in 1931 graces the nave.

  • But the importance of the cathedral,

  • both religious and cultural, is best felt in its intimate,

  • sumptuously decorated Wenceslas Chapel.

  • This place feels very sacred.

  • VIHAN: Yeah, a church in this place

  • has been the holiest place in the country for 1,100 years.

  • St. Wenceslas is buried here.

  • So that's Wenceslas' tomb.

  • VIHAN: Yeah. He's the first Slavic saint,

  • so the time when we had all this French

  • and Italian saints, this was the first Slav

  • to attain sainthood,

  • and he's the patron of the Czech people,

  • and the kings have been coronated here

  • for those 1,100 years,

  • and they'd always be just lent the crown of St. Wenceslas,

  • who otherwise rules eternally up in heaven.

  • STEVES: Just up the hill, the Strohov Monastery

  • overlooks the Prague Castle and the rest of the city.

  • The monastery was a center of learning.

  • As the Age of Enlightenment

  • swept into Prague in the 18th century,

  • it brought with it an enthusiasm

  • for the study of natural sciences.

  • Cases highlight oddities from around the globe

  • and wonders of the day.

  • Could this be a baby dodo bird?

  • The monastery is most noted for its library.

  • Libraries were the Google of the day.

  • It's hard to overestimate

  • the importance of these books back then.

  • The halls are decorated with paintings that

  • celebrated philosophy, theology,

  • and the quest for knowledge,

  • Knowledge is power,

  • and in Europe until modern times,

  • the Church was the keeper of knowledge.

  • This gave the Church extraordinary power.

  • For example, some of these books

  • dealt with particularly challenging ideas.

  • The locked case above the door was forlibri prohibiti --

  • the prohibited books.

  • Only the abbot had the key, and to read these books,

  • like the works of Copernicus and Jan Hus,

  • you had to get his permission.

  • As the Age of Enlightenment took hold in Europe,

  • the Church struggled to maintain its control of knowledge.

  • Pondering these treasured books

  • for more information age perspective,

  • I'm reminded both how abundant information is today

  • and of the importance of free access.

  • Prague is well-served by its tram system.

  • You can tame any big city

  • by taking advantage of its public transportation.

  • Trams slither up and down

  • the cobbled streets every few minutes.

  • The service is so good and cheap,

  • many locals never get around to learning to drive.

  • We're heading across town to the top of Wenceslas Square.

  • St. Wenceslas,

  • commemorated by this statue,

  • is the "good king" of Christmas carol fame.

  • The statue is a popular meeting point.

  • Locals says, "I'll see ya under the horse's tail."

  • The "good king" was actually an unusually educated

  • and highly cultured 10th century Czech duke.

  • Stories of his enlightened reign caused Europeans

  • to see Czechs as civilized rather than barbaric.

  • To this day, Wenceslas is a symbol of Czech nationalism.

  • Wenceslas square is the main square of the country

  • and a natural assembly point when the Czech people

  • need to raise their collective voice for a change.

  • In the 19th century, the age of divine kings

  • and ruling families was coming to an end.

  • Here as in much of Europe, nationalism was on the rise.

  • By the end of World War I, the Habsburgs were history

  • and the birth of independent Czechoslovakia

  • was celebrated on this square.

  • That independence lasted barely 20 years.

  • In 1939, the Nazis rolled in.

  • While Prague escaped the bombs of World War II,

  • it couldn't avoid the Communists who came next

  • and stayed for 40 years.

  • But with this square as the stage,

  • people power ultimately prevailed.

  • In the 20th century,

  • my family lived history in this square.

  • In 1918, my grandma watched the Habsburg eagles

  • being pulled down from the buildings.

  • In 1939, my aunt saw the Nazis pulling in.

  • In 1968, my dad stood here with his bare hands

  • against the Soviet tanks.

  • In 1989, it was my generation's turn.

  • So you were here. Tell me what happened.

  • In November '89, a student march

  • headed for this square,

  • kicked off two weeks of demonstrations.

  • For 40 nights, this square filled with 300,000 people.

  • Each night, 300,000 people here.

  • And on the last night, Václav Havel, the playwright,

  • who would become our next president,

  • announced from that balcony

  • the resignation of the Communist government.

  • -Wow. -Suddenly, we were free.

  • STEVES: And without a shot, the communist era

  • had ended for the Czech people.

  • And today, a big part of that newly-won freedom

  • is the freedom to enjoy

  • what many consider Europe's best beer.

  • Prague's beer halls, both big and small,

  • are an integral part of the city and its social scene.

  • Over the generations, beer has evolved from a heavy,

  • almost liquid bread beverage

  • to a lighter, more refreshing pilsner or lager.

  • It seems Czechs perfected lager,

  • and they drink it with a strong sense of ownership,

  • and in a place like this, even for a tourist,

  • good conversation and quick friendships go hand in hand,

  • especially with your second half-liter.

  • Prague's skyline of red roofs

  • and towering spires can hide the fact

  • that the city is home to one of

  • the oldest Jewish communities in Europe.

  • Dispersed by the Romans 2,000 years ago,

  • Jews and their culture survived in enclaves

  • throughout the Western world.

  • Jewish traders settled here in Prague in the tenth century.

  • In the 13th century, they built this synagogue,

  • now the oldest in Central Europe.

  • Stepping into this venerable place of worship,

  • you're marvelling at how this could have survived

  • the tumult of the ages.

  • We feel eight centuries of devotion.

  • The old cemetery reminds visitors that

  • this Jewish community was one of Europe's largest.

  • With limited space and tens of thousands of graves,

  • tombs were piled atop each other many layers high.

  • The Jewish word for cemetery means "house of life."

  • Like Christians, Jews believe that

  • death is the gateway to the next world.

  • A walk through here affords a contemplative moment

  • in a serene setting.

  • About a hundred years ago, Prague's ramshackle ghetto

  • was torn down and rebuilt

  • as the attractive neighborhood we see today --

  • fine mostly Art Nouveau buildings.

  • The few surviving historic buildings

  • are thought-provoking and open to visitors.

  • This synagogue is now a museum,

  • filled with historic and precious Judaica.

  • Even as Nazis were destroying

  • Jewish communities in the region,

  • Czech Jews were allowed to collect

  • and archive their treasures here.

  • But even the curators of this museum

  • ultimately ended up in concentration camps.

  • Nearby, another synagogue is now a poignant memorial

  • to the victims of the Nazis.

  • Of the 120,000 Jews living here before the Nazis came,

  • only 15,000 lived to see liberation in 1945.

  • These walls are covered with the handwritten names

  • of over 78,000 local Jews

  • who were sent to concentration camps.

  • [Man speaking foreign language]

  • STEVES: A voice reading the names of the victims

  • provides a moving soundtrack.

  • [Woman speaking foreign language]

  • STEVES: Family names are read, followed by first names,

  • birth dates, and the last date

  • that person was known to be alive.

  • [Man reading names in Czech]

  • Despite the horrors of the Holocaust,

  • the Jewish tradition endured, and a small Jewish community

  • survives in Prague to this day.

  • The Art Nouveau facades gracing the Jewish Quarter

  • in streets all over the city seem to proclaim

  • that life is precious and to be celebrated.

  • Prague is perhaps the best Art Nouveau town in Europe.

  • Art Nouveau was an ethic of beauty.

  • It celebrated creativity and the notion that art,

  • design, fine living -- it all flowed together.

  • For a closer look at that Art Nouveau aesthetic,

  • visit the Mucha Museum.

  • I find the art of Prague's Alfons Mucha,

  • who worked around 1900, incessantly likeable.

  • With the help of an abundant supply of gorgeous models

  • and an ability to be just provocative enough,

  • Mucha was a founding father of the Art Nouveau movement.

  • His specialty? Pretty women with flowers,

  • portraits of rich wives,

  • and slinky models celebrating the good life.

  • But he grew tired of commercial art

  • and redirected his creative energy.

  • A short tram ride away,

  • the Czech National Gallery of Modern Art

  • is Mucha's latest work, his magnum opus.

  • Mucha dedicated the last half of his career,

  • 18 years, to painting the "Slav Epic."

  • It's a series of 20 huge canvases

  • designed to tell the story of his people on a grand scale.

  • In this self-portrait, young Mucha

  • is the seer -- a conduit determined to share wisdom

  • of a sage Slav with his fellow Czechs.

  • Mucha paints a brotherhood of Slavic people --

  • Serbs, Russians, Poles, and Czechs --

  • who share a common heritage, deep roots,

  • and a hard-fought past.

  • Through these illustrations of epic events

  • Czechs can trace their ethnic roots.

  • Mucha, with his romantic nationalist vision,

  • shows how through the ages, Goths and Germanic people

  • have brought terror and destruction to the Slavs,

  • whose pagan roots are woven deep into their national character.

  • With each panel,

  • you get more caught up in the story.

  • The establishment of the Orthodox Christian faith

  • provided a common thread for Slavic peoples.

  • To maintain their identity, they stood up

  • to the Roman Church

  • with courageous leaders

  • boldly confronting Vatican officials.

  • The printing of the Bible in the Czech language

  • was a cultural milestone.

  • Then they endured three centuries of darkness

  • during the time Czechs were ruled by the Catholic Habsburgs.

  • Mucha's final canvas shows the ultimate triumph

  • of the Czech people as in the 20th century,

  • they joined the family of nations

  • with their Czech ethnicity intact.

  • The "Slav Epic."

  • While Prague is packed with art,

  • history, and a wealth of unforgettable sights,

  • the most lasting impression I take

  • from visiting this magnificent city

  • is the spirit of the Czech people --

  • a youthful spirit that celebrates freedom

  • and looks forward

  • to a prosperous future.

  • And that's enough of an excuse for one last party.

  • The Prague Castle Orchestra is playing back at my favorite pub

  • and Lida and Honza are saving me a seat.

  • ♪♪

  • Whether you come to Prague for its golden spires,

  • its slinky art, its incredible beer,

  • or the Czech people, it's a great place to visit.

  • I'm Rick Steves.

  • Until next time, keep on travelin'!

  • Na zdraví!

  • Whether you come to Prague for the slinky music --

  • Whether you come to Prague for the golden arches --

  • It's a great place to visit.

  • [Laugh]

  • And beyond its striking facades,

  • it's one of Europe's most...

  • Da da da da da.

  • Love me two times

  • ♪ I'm going away

  • Would you like more muscles in my upper body?

Hi, I'm Rick Steves,

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    Jane に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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