Placeholder Image

字幕表 動画を再生する

  • HI, I'M RICK STEVES, AND THIS TIME WE'RE EXPLORING

  • THE BEST OF WESTERN IRELAND.

  • AND WE'RE STARTING ABOUT AS WEST AS YOU CAN GET,

  • ON THE ARAN ISLANDS, WHERE, AS THE PEOPLE HERE SAY,

  • "THE NEXT PARISH OVER IS BOSTON," RIGHT?

  • THAT'S RIGHT.

  • IRELAND, ESPECIALLY ITS WEST, HAS A UNIQUE CHARM

  • WHERE ITS RUGGED NATURAL BEAUTY AND ITS VIBRANT TRADITIONS

  • CAN BE SEEN AND ACTUALLY FELT.

  • WE'LL DELVE INTO THE BEST OF THE WEST,

  • NOT POLISHED AND ON A MUSEUM SHELF

  • BUT WONDERFULLY RAW AND UNREFINED.

  • AFTER IMAGINING THIS ISLAND'S MISTY PAST,

  • OLD AS THE PYRAMIDS,

  • WE ENJOY PLENTY OF TRADITIONAL IRISH MUSIC,

  • FROM A FOOT-STOMPING SMALL-TOWN DANCE SHOW

  • TO LOCAL PUBS WHERE EVERY NIGHT'S A MUSIC FEST.

  • WE EXPLORE THE BIGGEST CITY OF WITH THE WEST COAST,

  • HANG FROM A DRAMATIC CLIFF,

  • AND EAT REALLY WELL,

  • ALL WITH MY FAVORITE TRAVEL PARTNERS,

  • MY KIDS, ANDY AND JACKIE,

  • AND MY WIFE, ANNE.

  • IRELAND LIES AT THE FAR WEST OF EUROPE,

  • AND WE'RE EXPLORING THE FAR WEST OF IRELAND.

  • STARTING ON THE REMOTE ARAN ISLANDS, WE CRUISE TO GALWAY,

  • HIKE THE RUGGED BURREN AND MARVEL AT THE CLIFFS OF MOHER,

  • BEFORE VENTURING TO DINGLE,

  • AND FINISHING ON GREAT BLASKET ISLAND.

  • WE'RE BEGINNING HERE ON INISHMORE.

  • AT EIGHT MILES LONG AND TWO MILES WIDE,

  • IT'S THE LARGEST OF THE THREE ARAN ISLANDS.

  • IT'S ALSO THE MOST POPULATED, INTERESTING AND VISITED.

  • INISHMORE'S MAIN ATTRACTION

  • IS THE 2,000-YEAR-OLD FORTRESS OF DUN AENGUS,

  • WHICH HANGS PRECARIOUSLY ON THE EDGE OF A CLIFF

  • 300 FEET ABOVE THE ATLANTIC.

  • THE CONCENTRIC WALLS OF THIS MYSTERIOUS CELTIC FORT

  • ARE 13 FEET THICK AND 10 FEET HIGH.

  • AS AN ADDED DEFENSE, EFFECTIVE EVEN TODAY,

  • THE FORT IS RINGED WITH A COMMOTION OF SPIKY STONES

  • CALLED FRISIAN SOLDIERS.

  • STICKING UP LIKE LANCES,

  • THEY'RE NAMED AFTER ANCIENT LDIERS

  • WHO USED A WALL OF SPEARS TO STOP A CHARGING CAVALRY.

  • LITTLE BY LITTLE, AS THE CLIFF ERODES,

  • THE WALLS OF THIS CIRCULAR FORT FALL INTO THE SEA BELOW.

  • DUN AENGUS CAN BE MOBBED BY DAY-TRIPPERS.

  • BUT SINCE WE SPENT THE NIGHT, WE'RE HERE EARLY,

  • AND THE PLACE IS ALL OURS.

  • I MAKE A POINT TO BE ALL ALONE HERE,

  • WHERE THE CRASHING WAVES BELOW SEEM TO SAY,

  • "YOU'VE COME TO THE VERY EDGE OF EUROPE."

  • KILRONAN IS THE ONLY REAL TOWN ON THE ARAN ISLANDS,

  • BUT IT'S STILL JUST A VILLAGE

  • WITH A HANDFUL OF SHOPS, PUBS, RESTAURANTS AND B&Bs.

  • KILRONAN HUDDLES AROUND ITS PIER

  • WHERE GROUPS OF BACKPACKERS

  • WASH ASHORE WITH THE LANDING OF EACH FERRY.

  • BRING CASH.

  • THERE ARE NO ATMs ON THE ISLAND.

  • THE ISLANDS ARE A GAELTACHT -- OR GAELIC-SPEAKING AREA --

  • A KIND OF NATIONAL PARK FOR IRELAND'S TRADITIONAL CULTURE.

  • WHILE THE ISLANDERS SPEAK ENGLISH FOR VISITORS,

  • THEY CHAT AMONG THEMSELVES IN THIS OLD IRISH LANGUAGE.

  • [ speaking in Irish ]

  • LIKE ALL GAELTACHTS,

  • KILRONAN HAS AN ABUNDANCE OF FOLK TRADITIONS AND MUSIC.

  • THE RAGUS DANCE SHOW GIVES VISITORS AN INTIMATE LOOK

  • AT IRISH HARD SHOE, OR STEP DANCING,

  • ACCOMPANIED BY TRADITIONAL IRISH INSTRUMENTS.

  • IF YOU WERE HERE IN EARLIER GENERATIONS,

  • YOU'D SEE STEP DANCES LIKE THESE AT A COUNTRY CROSSROADS,

  • WITH NEIGHBORS DANCING AROUND A FIRE

  • TO WHATEVER INSTRUMENTS SHOWED UP.

  • [ cheers and applause ]

  • KILRONAN IS A SPRINGBOARD FOR ISLAND EXPLORATION.

  • RENTING BIKES IS SAFE, INEXPENSIVE AND SCENIC.

  • PONY CARTS, WHILE PRICEY, ARE MORE ROMANTIC.

  • AND SHARED MINIBUSES,

  • WHICH AWAIT THE ARRIVAL OF EACH FERRY,

  • PROVIDE CHEAP GUIDED TOURS FOR A QUICK AND EFFICIENT LOOK

  • AT THE ISLAND'S SIGHTS AND A CHANCE TO GET TO KNOW

  • AND LEARN FROM A COLORFUL LOCAL GUIDE.

  • WE'VE SNARED A MINIBUS FOR OUR FAMILY.

  • ANNE, ANDY AND JACKIE ARE JOINING ME

  • FOR A TOUR WITH THOMAS O'NEIL,

  • WHO'S LIVED ON THE ISLAND ALL HIS LIFE.

  • [ speaking in Irish ]

  • THAT'S IN IRISH NOW.

  • odh lá. IT'S A NICE DAY.

  • WE'RE TAKING THE COAST ROAD ON THE WAY TO THE --

  • UP TO THE END OF THE ISLAND.

  • IT'S A NICE DAY, HUH? COULDN'T BE ANY BETTER, HUH?

  • 800 ISLANDERS LIVE IN 14 HAMLETS

  • WITH THREE ELEMENTARY SCHOOLS AND THREE CHURCHES.

  • MANY FAMILIES OWN SMALL DETACHED FIELDS

  • WHERE THEY KEEP A FEW COWS.

  • SHEEP ARE TOO MUCH TROUBLE.

  • THERE'S A STARK BEAUTY ABOUT THESE ISLANDS

  • AND THE SIMPLE LIVES ITS INHABITANTS EKE OUT

  • OF SIX INCHES OF TOPSOIL AND A MEAN SEA.

  • PRECIOUS LITTLE OF THE LAND IS PRODUCTIVE.

  • UNTIL THE ADVENT OF TOURISM, PEOPLE MADE A PRECARIOUS LIVING

  • FROM FISHING AND FARMING.

  • THEY'RE SHIFTING THEM NOW FROM FIELD TO FIELD.

  • HE'S GOING HALF A MILE WITH THEM MAYBE TO ANOTHER FIELD.

  • THE FIELDS ARE SO SCATTERED HERE.

  • THE ROCKY FIELDS ARE SMALL,

  • DIVIDED BY HUNDREDS OF MILES OF DRY, STONE WALL.

  • THESE WALLS ARE BUILT IN A WAY

  • THAT ALLOWS GATES TO BE MADE IN THEM

  • WHEREVER THE FARMER WANTS.

  • WHEN A FARMER NEEDS TO MOVE HIS LIVESTOCK,

  • HE CAN DISMANTLE AND REBUILD THE WALLS EASILY.

  • I'M GOING TO KNOCK THIS WALL DOWN NOW.

  • THIS IS THE WAY THEY DO IT.

  • IF I HAD CATTLE NOW, WHEN IT'S DOWN TO THE GROUND,

  • THE CATTLE WOULD WALK IN AND, WHEN THEY'RE INSIDE,

  • WE BUILD IT UP AGAIN.

  • WE'RE NOT TRESPASSING HERE.

  • THIS IS THOMAS'S FIELD

  • AND THERE'S PLENTY OF WORK TO BE DONE WHILE THE SUN'S OUT.

  • THAT'S MY HAY THERE NOW.

  • THAT'S OKAY.

  • JACKIE, COME ON, HELP ME WITH... ANDY, CAN YOU HELP ME?

  • SO, YOU STACKED IT UP ANTICIPATING RAIN. RIGHT?

  • THAT'S RIGHT. IT'S WET.

  • AND I WILL HAVE TO SCATTER IT AROUND TO DRY,

  • TO DRY IT BEFORE I PUT IT IN THE SHED.

  • Rick: OKAY, SO TONIGHT THIS WILL BE DRY?

  • Thomas: YES, TONIGHT THIS WILL BE DRY.

  • Rick: AND TOMORROW, IT'S WEETABIX FOR THE COWS.

  • TOMORROW? NO, I WON'T USE IT UNTIL WINTER.

  • WELL, THOMAS MANAGED TO TRICK MY ENTIRE FAMILY

  • INTO AN AFTERNOON OF LABOR.

  • BUT, IN RETURN, WE MADE A FRIEND

  • AND LEARNED ABOUT THE HAY AND GATES OF INISHMORE.

  • A COUPLE OF CENTURIES AGO

  • WHEN THE ENGLISH TOOK THE BEST PARTS OF IRELAND IN THE EAST,

  • THEY TOLD THE CATHOLIC LOCALS TO GO TO HELL

  • OR GO TO CONNEMARRA, POOR LAND OUT HERE IN THE WEST.

  • OVER TIME, THE ENGLISH EVEN TOOK MOST OF THE WEST,

  • BUT THEY NEVER REACHED THESE REMOTE ARAN ISLANDS.

  • TODAY THOSE DESPERATE DAYS ARE LONG GONE

  • AS IRELAND ENJOYS ONE OF EUROPE'S HOTTEST ECONOMIES.

  • TO FEEL THE PULSE OF TODAY'S IRELAND,

  • WE'RE HEADING FOR THE MAINLAND

  • AND THE BIGGEST CITY OF THE WEST, GALWAY.

  • FOR THE FIRST TIME

  • THE IRISH ARE MAKING AS MUCH MONEY AS THE ENGLISH.

  • AND YOU FEEL THE BOOM TIME IN GALWAY.

  • WITH 60,000 PEOPLE, IT'S A LIVELY UNIVERSITY TOWN

  • WITH ONE OF THE YOUNGEST POPULATIONS IN ALL OF EUROPE.

  • ACCORDING TO LOCAL TRADITION, GALWAY'S NAME TELLS ITS STORY.

  • Gal IS AN OLD IRISH WORD FOR FOREIGNER.

  • THAT WOULD MAKE GALWAY "TOWN OF THE FOREIGNERS."

  • IT WAS JUST A MEDIEVAL FISHING VILLAGE

  • UNTIL THE 12OOs WHEN THE ENGLISH CAME.

  • THESE FOREIGNERS TOSSED OUT THE IRISH

  • AND BUILT A WALL TO FORTIFY THEIR TOWN.

  • THE DISPOSSESSED IRISH, NOW OUTSIDE THE WALL,

  • CALLED THE TOWN GALWAY, TOWN OF FOREIGNERS.

  • THE SPANISH ARCH, WHERE SPANISH SHIPS

  • WOULD UNLOAD THEIR CARGO 400 YEARS AGO,

  • IS A REMINDER OF THE TRADING IMPORTANCE GALWAY ONCE ENJOYED.

  • THE TOWN'S TINY MUSEUM IS HUMBLE.

  • BUT IF IT'S FRAGMENTS OF OLD GALWAY YOU'RE LOOKING FOR,

  • THIS IS WHERE THEY'RE KEPT.

  • WHILE THE TOWN HAS A LONG AND INTERESTING HISTORY,

  • ITS BRITISH OVERLORDS, WHO RULED HERE UNTIL 1922,

  • HAD LITTLE INTEREST IN PRESERVING ITS HERITAGE.

  • CONSEQUENTLY, LITTLE FROM OLD GALWAY SURVIVES.

  • THIS RARE REMAINING BIT OF ITS ONCE FORMIDABLE WALL

  • IS NOW ENGULFED IN A MODERN SHOPPING MALL.

  • AND THE 400-YEAR-OLD FORTIFIED HOMES OF THE LOCAL NOBILITY --

  • THIS ONE'S NOW A BANK --

  • ARE NOW SWALLOWED UP IN GALWAY'S COMMERCIAL HUBBUB.

  • EYRE SQUARE, DOWNTOWN GALWAY'S CENTRAL PARK,

  • IS A POPULAR HANGOUT.

  • IT CONTAINS THE JOHN F. KENNEDY PARK, ESTABLISHED IN MEMORY

  • OF THE IRISH-AMERICAN PRESIDENT WHO VISITED HERE

  • IN 1963, JUST A FEW MONTHS BEFORE HE WAS ASSASSINATED.

  • THE RIVER CORRIB CUTS THROUGH THE CENTER OF TOWN.

  • SALMON RUN UP THE RIVER MOST OF THE SUMMER.

  • FISHERMEN BOOK LONG IN ADVANCE

  • TO GET HALF-DAY APPOINTMENTS FOR A CASTING SPOT.

  • WHAT GALWAY LACKS IN SITES, IT MAKES UP FOR IN AMBIENCE.

  • SPEND AN AFTERNOON WANDERING ITS HARBOR AREA

  • AND FEEL THE FISHING VILLAGE IT USED TO BE,

  • OR JUST STROLL ITS STREETS WITH THEIR DELIGHTFUL MIX

  • OF COLORFUL FACADES AND YOUTHFUL CROWDS.

  • FROM GALWAY, IT'S JUST AN HOUR'S DRIVE TO THE BURREN,

  • AN INTRIGUING 50-SQUARE-MILE LIMESTONE PLATEAU.

  • THE BURREN IS SO BARREN

  • THAT WHEN CROMWELL INVADED THIS PART OF IRELAND IN THE 1650s,

  • HIS DISAPPOINTED SURVEYOR DESCRIBED IT AS "A SAVAGE LAND

  • "YIELDING NEITHER WATER ENOUGH TO DROWN A MAN

  • NOR A TREE TO HANG HIM, NOR SOIL ENOUGH TO BURY HIM."

  • BUT HE WASN'T MUCH OF A BOTANIST.

  • LOCAL GUIDE SHANE CONNELLY LOVES TO SHOW HOW THE BURREN

  • IS A UNIQUE AND THRIVING ECOSYSTEM.

  • WE'RE HERE IN EARLY JULY, THE BEST SEASON FOR FLOWERS.

  • ...ALL THIS RARE BOTANY, THE ORCHIDS, THE DRYAS OCTAPETALA,

  • THE HEATHERS, WILD THYME,

  • THE SMALLEST WILD ROSE IN IRELAND,

  • OVER 600 VARIETIES OF PLANTS.

  • Rick: LET'S TAKE A CLOSE LOOK.

  • Shane: THERE'S A LOVELY EXAMPLE OF A GERANIUM.

  • BLOODY CRANESBILL.

  • YOU SEE IT IN JUNE, JULY.

  • THAT'S WHY IT'S CALLED THE BLOODY CRANESBILL.

  • SEE THE SEED HEAD HERE?

  • IN THE SHAPE OF A CRANE'S BEAK

  • AND THAT'S WHAT GOES A BLOODY COLOR, NOT THE BLOSSOM HERE.

  • WHEN THE BLOSSOMS FALL OFF, THAT'S THE RED SEPALS.

  • NOW THERE'S A LOVELY EXAMPLE OF THE POTENTILLA,

  • FOUR-PETALED, UNUSUAL FOR ITS FAMILY.

  • RIGHT BESIDE IT YET TO COME OUT IS A ST. JOHN'S WORT.

  • THAT'S SLENDER ST. JOHN'S WORT.

  • IT COMES OUT FOR ST. JOHN'S DAY, THE 24th OF JUNE,

  • SO HENCE THE NAME ST. JOHN'S WORT.

  • THE BURREN SUPPORTS THE GREATEST DIVERSITY

  • OF PLANTS IN IRELAND.

  • LIKE NOWHERE ELSE,

  • MEDITERRANEAN AND ARCTIC WILDFLOWERS BLOOM SIDE BY SIDE.

  • WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING AT HERE

  • IS FOLIAGE OF THE MOUNTAIN AVENS, DRYAS OCTAPETALA.

  • IT'S A PLANT OF THE TUNDRA.

  • THIS AREA WAS TUNDRA. IT HAS DISAPPEARED.

  • THIS IS STILL HERE, IN OTHER WORDS, IT CAME WITH THE GLACIER.

  • ALSO WE'RE LOOKING AT THE MEDITERRANEAN ORCHID,

  • THE HEAT-SPOTTED ORCHID.

  • IT CAME WITH THE LAND BRIDGE AND SURVIVED THE CHANGES.

  • THERE YOU HAVE IT.

  • A PLANT FROM THAT CLIMATE, THAT LANDSCAPE,

  • BESIDE A PLANT FROM THE MEDITERRANEAN.

  • WANDER FOR SOME QUIET TIME WITH THE WILDFLOWERS.

  • LIMESTONE, CREATED FROM LAYERS OF SEA MUD,

  • IS THE BASIS OF THE BURREN.

  • THE EARTH'S CRUST HEAVED IT UP AND THE GLACIERS SWEPT IT BARE,

  • DROPPING BOULDERS AS THEY RECEDED.

  • THE BURREN IS ALSO RICH IN MYSTERIOUS ANCIENT SITES.

  • THIS IS THE PORTAL DOLMEN.

  • FOUR HUNDRED YEARS AGO,

  • LOCALS THOUGHT THIS WAS A DRUID'S ALTAR.

  • FOUR THOUSAND YEARS AGO, IT ACTUALLY WAS A GRAVE,

  • COVERED BY A NOW LONG-GONE MOUND OF DIRT.

  • THE WESTERN EDGE OF THE BURREN

  • IS MARKED BY THE CLIFFS OF MOHER.

  • A VISIT HERE

  • OFFERS ONE OF IRELAND'S GREAT NATURAL THRILLS.

  • FOR FIVE MILES, THE DRAMATIC CLIFFS

  • SOAR AS HIGH AS 650 FEET ABOVE THE ATLANTIC OCEAN.

  • WHILE I WOULDN'T RECOMMEND THIS,

  • THRILL SEEKERS FIND A SPECIAL PEACE