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  • Hi.

  • Tomoa Narasaki Akiyo Noguchi Yudai Ikeda

  • Today I'd like to interview. I ask mainly about the Olympic game.

  • To start, please tell me your final result and straight feeling.

  • Tomoa: My target was the gold, but I couldn't reach it and ended in 4th.

  • I've been managing myself and I was in good condition to believe that I could win.

  • In the first Olympic

  • I couldn't control body as I thought. And many other factors...I was 4th....

  • Akiyo: It was my final competition and I could win a bronze medal. Thank you.

  • Although I got a medal, the color of it isn't as what I expected.

  • I wasn't fully satisfied with my climbing. So it's like I'm half happy and half sad.

  • Tomoa & Ikedai: Oh...Congratulation!!

  • Akiyo: Thank you for your support.

  • Tomoa: I was one of your supporter.

  • Ikedai: With a paper board!

  • Ikedai: What is the biggest emotion comes up in your mind after the Olympic games?

  • Tomoa: mmm...

  • Sad.

  • Since sport climbing has been selected in 2016, I've been working hard to enhance my ability for five year.

  • Despite that fact, I could not get the gold and I'm naturally so sad.

  • It's sad...

  • Akiyo: Me. When it was over. I was simply frustrated. Just like other competition.

  • I woke up in the next morning, then I started to thinkWhy I could not hold that one move?”, “I should've climbed better.”

  • It was my last, but I was thinking about next training to be better in the next game.

  • I definitely felt that it wasn't my last climbing.

  • On the other hand, I received a lot of voices to celebrate me.

  • I was in peaceable mind because many people who supported me were happy.

  • It's been about two weeks after Olympics. I feel I'm released after long-long competitor life.

  • Ikedai: Were you nervous in the Olympic games?

  • Tomoa: More than ever.

  • I do not feel nervous in normal days. This time, rather not me, but the environment was totally different.

  • Japan national team, organization size, things were so huge. And that made me nervous I suppose.

  • Akiyo: I was quite calm. The past competition were more hard.

  • For example in the world championships 2019, Hachioji, I was more nervous. So the Olympics wasn't my worst one.

  • Tomoa: We are different. Miho Nonaka san also said she wasn't so nervous.

  • Akiyo: I was more focused to think about it as the last one. Not about a word of Olympic.

  • Ikedai: I think both of you two are mentally so-so-so tough.

  • However after speed, I saw even you Tomoa got very frustrated. So if I were there, I may be exploded.

  • I guess many people who were watching you could feel sick with a sweat in hands.

  • Ikedai: Please tell me about other memorable climbers in the Olympics.

  • Tomoa: I say Colin Duffy. When sport climbing were chosen as the Olympic in 2016, he wasn't the strongest in the US.

  • He was just a new comer in the world cups.

  • It's like he was the lucky one to be a Olympian.

  • Since then, I guess he was so motivated and grown so much. He was climbing as hard as he could and was advancing.

  • Akiyo: How about Adam?

  • Tomoa: I believe Adam and I were both thinking about same thing.

  • To Win.

  • Both should have been...well I do not his true feeling there, but I understand that we both thought that one of us were the gold medalist.

  • I felt we weren't so friendly during the game.

  • When it was over, we had a kind of sympathy that Tokyo2020 wasn't for both of us.

  • We both were extremely focusing on the gold medal. Just like that.

  • Akiyo: I was quite impressed when I saw Adam's very first SNS shot right after the Olympics.

  • It was a photo that Adam and Tomoa were shaking hands. I did not expect Adam to use that moment for one.

  • Tomoa: I'm honored to be there. Adam is for sure the most variable climber among the current competitors.

  • I'm motivated to climb against him and I hope Adam feels the same way as I do. Never know.

  • Ikedai: From the audience point of view, Jakob Schubert was one of our favorite.

  • Tomoa: He has shownthe soul of lead specialist.” In both qualifications and finals.

  • Akiyo: After the boulder qualification, Jakob was in 17th and he was way behind to be the finalists.

  • Ikedai: all nations were cheering him up in the lead final.

  • Tomoa: Yes, it was like all hope to top was on him.

  • Akiyo: I feel Jakob had so much pressure on him since it is not an ordinary thing that Austrian athlete to be the summer Olympic medalist.

  • Tomoa: The way Jakob climb is beautiful. He goes up as if he never feels damage he gets.

  • Tomoa: How about you, Akiyo?

  • Akiyo: I reckon all finalists had every stories, so much impressions. I really felt so.

  • I start talk about the winner, Janja Garnbret.

  • As she wrote on her SNS, she was crying at the isolation right after she made mistake in speed qualifications.

  • Tomoa: I heard it's true.

  • Akiyo: Everybody were thinking that Janja were too strong enough on both boulder and lead.

  • No matter what she came in speed, she was to pass qualifications and to win.

  • That's everybody thought. However she has been fighting and she felt she wasn't the best as other expected.

  • During the winning interview, she said all finalists were very strong. She said she never knew who would be the winner.

  • She is always modest and persistent.

  • We admire her. We know she's been working hard.

  • She has been wining many many times, but still she did not said she could win.

  • That kind of sense is really great. I admire her as the strong competitor and I feel that is the power of Janja to keep winning.

  • Never to be proud of the results by oneself. I really like that style.

  • She is strong because she never forget to be ambitious after many golds.

  • Tomoa: Men are likely to be conceited....

  • Ikedai: So even Janja Garnbret had a lot of stress on her as Adam and Tomoa had?

  • Akiyo: I just found that Slovenian has won 3 gold medals in Tokyo2020 including Janja.

  • So there should have been so much pressure on her to be destinated.

  • To Bring back the gold medal is just to be a new hero.

  • Even in total, there were 5 medalists in this summer. People in Slovenia were hoping Janja to win.

  • For sure she was the No.1 gold candidate, so she should've had been under so much pressure.

  • I can understand she was really happy. I was also happy to see her win. She was so great.

  • Akiyo: Next I talk about the silver medalist, Miho Nonaka. (Akiyo call her Miho.)

  • I think she had been in so hard time since she was involved in the middle of the issue of Court of Arbitration for Sport, CAS.

  • In Hachioji 2019, she was 2nd among Japanese climbers.

  • But it took one year and three months until she was elected as the Olympian candidate.

  • I believe she experienced crazy time which I would not be able to imagine properly.

  • It felt she had extraordinary disadvantage because of CAS.

  • Just before the Olympic, she got injury. Actually she often gets injury.

  • I've been competing together with Miho for long time, so I can see she's mentally become very strong.

  • Ikedai: For you two, now is the another turning point. What is your next target?

  • Tomoa: If this were a manga cartoon, it's definitely the beginning of PART2.

  • My close target is to win the world championships in Russia.

  • And the big target is to be the most strongest climber in the history with all wins.

  • Akiyo: Do you mean for competitions?

  • Tomoa: Yes. But also for climbing in the nature. I want to climb V17.

  • Ikedai: V17?? Is it??

  • Tomoa: It's maximum.

  • Akiyo: What's V17 in Japanese grade? 5, 6, 7-dan??

  • Tomoa: V15 is 5-dan. V16 is 6-dan. So V17 is 6-Dan+.

  • Ikedai: Only in overseas?? Tomoa: Yes.

  • Akiyo: We should double check the grading.

  • Ikedai: OK.

  • Tomoa: I heard that you cannot even start.

  • Nalle Hukkataival didBurden of Dreams 9A (V17)

  • And another one, Return of the Sleepwalker.

  • Ikedai: We should go overseas shooting project.

  • Tomoa: Do you know Daniel Woods?

  • Ikedai: Yes.

  • Tomoa: He could not start....He took 4 years to send it. More than 10,000 attempts...

  • Akiyo: My circumstances are totally changed after the Olympics.

  • I'm not a competitor anymore. No completions. No Olympics.

  • From now on, I'll challenge new things with my experience.

  • I want to use time tothinkandfind”. It's a preparation period.

  • Is just right after the Olympics, so I am visiting many people who supported me.

  • TV shows and a lot of things on going. I shall take time.

  • Tomoa: What is the direction? Where are you heaing?

  • Akiyo: Yes. I've been talking in front of people and media. I want to make climbing more popular in positive way.

  • In Tokyo2020, Japanese climber could not get the gold medal. I was really sad.

  • So in Paris, or in Los Angeles, I want Japanese climber to win the gold.

  • I wish I can support top climbers.

  • I cannot get it anymore, but I hope someone else can get it.

  • Tomoa: Ikedai & Akiyo coach.

  • Akiyo: Boulder and Lead. For Speed, we must start to be a candidate of Olympian.

  • I want support Japanese climbers.

  • Ikedai: Please give a comment for all fans.

  • Tomoa: We both may have similar idea though.

  • Since Tokyo2020 was postponed, I've been having long difficult time.

  • Even in that time, I could keep trying hard because I heard your cheerful voice.

  • For example, “Narasaki san! Get the gold!!” “Gamba!” Those voice were so important.

  • I really love you.

  • Ikedai: Thank you so much.

  • Tomoa: I appreciate your support.

  • Akiyo: Climbing were truly a minor sport when I started to compete. Nothing about Olympics.

  • I know many people who's been with me for long time. I've been climbing with them.

  • My family and close friends. Trainers, coaches, sponsors. People in Ryugasaki city.

  • People around the world. A lot. I really thank everyone.

  • Now it's my turn to give my feeling back to all. My next aim is all about that actions.

  • For millions Gamba I've got, I am giving all back to you. For everyone. I really will do.

  • Tomoa: Not by climbing.

  • Akiyo: Yes. I see bright future with all new young climbers.

  • I'll do what I specially can do.

  • Tomoa & Ikedai: Can't wait you do.

  • Tomoa: I am still far away from Akiyo.

  • Thank you for supporting us in Tokyo2020.

  • Tomoa: I'll climb to win the world championships in Russia. Thank you for continuous support.

  • Akiyo: I'm not a competitor anymore. So please watch my next challenge. Thank you.

  • Ikedai: I am heading to speed world cup in Seoul, South Korea.

  • Tomoa: So cool!!

  • Bye bye.

  • Akiyo: This is the actual medal of Olympics.

  • It's in the wooden case with Japanese production technology.

  • Underneath the case, there is the Olympic mark. A gold budge.

  • The case should be only for the medalist.

  • Tomoa: Is it a deer?

  • Akiyo: No!? Deer?

  • Tomoa: It's a deer!

  • Akiyo: No. lol

  • Akiyo: Here is the medal.

  • This is heads with Athens. Same design for all Olympic games.

  • The tail is designed for each games. This it Tokyo design.

  • On the side, “Sport Climbing, Women's Combinedis marked.

  • This is only one medal in the world.