Name: The evolution of fashion | RSA Replay
Uploaded: 2021-10-01T17:41:25.000Z
Duration: 49 min 10 s
Description: VoiceTubeの動画で発音を聞きながら英語表現を覚えよう！学べる英語：

hello everyone i'm josie warden the rsa's head of  regenerative design and it's my great pleasure to  

welcome you to today's thursday lunchtime event  and so today we've gathered together a brilliant  

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panel of fashion makers and thinkers from across  the uk and i'm from across the pond and really  

special thank you to lillian for joining us so  bright and early from new york this morning um  

so our clothing system has enormous impacts and  in the wake of prop 26 this conversation feels  

even more urgent and i can't wait to hear from our  expert panel today on how we can push fashion to  

be even more ambitious ambitious and achieve more  holistic goals so when we think about transforming  

fashion we often think about the sustainability  strategies of big brands and global supply chains  

but for today's conversation we're going to start  in a slightly different place and look at some  

very practical and locally based work which is  taking a regenerative approach to growing change  

in our landscape and in our communities before we  kind of zoom out and look at the wider change this  

might signal for the industry and so we're going  to hear a short kind of scene setting statements  

from each of our panelists um and in turn and  then we'll have a conversation together and so  

if you're interested in finding out more about the  rsa's work on regenerative design and fashion in  

particular then please check out the links in the  youtube chat and you can also get involved in the  

conversation on twitter using the hashtag join the  regeneration and we're really looking forward to  

hearing um any contributions you have to make  and we've got to get a lot to get through today  

so let's get started and and first up it's my real  pleasure to introduce justine olderz williams so  

justine is a creative activist our textile artisan  and educator specializing in botanical dyeing  

and she's director of the wild diary where she  devises rewilding rituals that reconnect people  

with natural fibres and colours they extend the  life of their clothing and she's also the founder  

of northwest fiber shed which is a collective  of professionals developing a decentralized  

regenerative textile system so justine thanks  so much for joining us today it's really great  

to have you and and i'm going to hand over to you  to introduce yourself a bit more about your work  

okay yeah well you mentioned i'm a natural  textile dyer and founder of fibre shed we are  

developing a regenerative textile  system in northwest england but  

i want to kind of go a little bit more  deeply into that term regenerative and  

what my understanding of that is um and  to kind of contextualize so to me it means  

restoring our life support system so that it can  restore us and right now this means giving back  

more than we take from the planet but  ultimately it means living in right relationship  

or symbiosis with our environment to make it more  understandable to myself one of my mentors claire  

dubois is the founder of the reforestation  charity tree sisters she says that humanity  

needs to evolve from being a consumer species to a  restorer species and how people interpret the term  

regenerative depends on where they currently  stand on this consumer restore a continuum  

for example the default extractor consumer mindset  will tend to reduce commodify and capitalize  

on the concept of regenerative fashion a term  which to my mind is a bit of an oxymoron anyway  

in order to keep business as usual and  perpetuate an economic system which has caused  

supply and prices by being degenerative at the  other end of this continuum we have the restorers  

who preserved their wildlife and soil  health i'm really struck by the statistic  

from national geographic that states that it's  indigenous cultures who make up just five percent  

of the global population who are preserving  80 percent of the world's biodiversity  

now organizations like fibre sheds that  i'm involved in honor this indigenous these  

indigenous origins of regenerative practice  and are implementing solutions that actively  

restore rather than merely sustaining or  worse destroying our planet and that ethos  

focuses on using local fibres local dyes and local  labor because massive amounts of environmental and  

social exploitation can be reduced or eliminated  by regionalizing or downsizing manufacturing  

so for example in relation to clothing  manufacturers working regeneratively might involve  

divesting from fossil fuel derived synthetic  materials that currently make up about 70 of  

all clothing produced to instead use renewable  natural fibers and dyes grown in ways that draw  

carbon out of our overheated atmosphere back into  our depleted soils and to do this we need textile  

props integrated into our food farming systems  um crucially using carbon farming techniques  

then when we have these textile crops we need  the processing equipment to bring it to market  

and make it viable now in my work with northwest  england fibre shed i'm collaborating with patrick  

grant from social enterprise community clothing  who you might know better as a judge on the bbc's  

great british selling bee and also super slow way  who are an arts commissioning organization that  

run the british textile biennial and we've been  working this year on a project called homegrown  

homespun to start developing a regenerative soil  to soil textile system here in the heartland of  

british textiles in northwest england um we've  started but from the ground up by planting two  

of the uk's forgotten vibrant dye crops flax  and woad on urban land in blackburn and the main  

challenge has been um to bring these textile crops  back to uk is a loss of skills and there are no  

linen processing facilities in the entire country  anymore you can't process it and you can't spin it  

in this country so in our prototype year  we did everything by hand the way our  

pre-industrial ancestors did it um and really  this this kind of begs the question to me of  

why have generations for thousands of  years been empowered with the skills of  

self-sufficiency and survivalism to make their  own clothing one are so clever civilization  

in this culture can't do that it's incredibly  difficult to work sustainably and ethically  

in on the british isles right now because we just  don't have those facilities to to do so or the  

um the crops um which are no longer grown here  so we added to our challenge by trying to grow  

regeneratively and we've had advice from soil  scientists who are monitoring the effects  

on the soil health and biodiversity and we managed  to get from seed to cloth in less than six months  

and the cloth is now being exhibited in  blackburn museum until december the 18th  

and we happily have got funding to upscale  and reach our kind of second phase which  

is to bring the line of jeans to market through  patrick's um social enterprise community clothing  

in time for the next biennial in 2023 so  we're we're inspired by um sort of mid-scale  

production models like the harris tweed model we  envisage a linen industry in in the northwest and  

yeah that's where we're up to i mean i can i  can delve way more deeply into the huge amount  

of challenges um i think what's interesting  to me is this holds a massive potential the  

clothing industry has a massive potential to heal  the climate crisis if we listen very carefully to  

those who are most impacted by the climate  crisis and it's not just about the loss of  

manufacturing infrastructure there are actual  deeper ramifications to working regeneratively  

there is an emotional element to our mass  consumption that we need to tackle we can set up  

all these lovely systems but if people are still  driven to buy and waste because it's fulfilling  

some kind of emotional need that is set up by  our economic system that is going to perpetuate  

um in the long term the same sort of wastage  albeit um with better renewable materials so  

yeah it's it's a really intersectional interesting  discussion and i feel like i'm overrunning on  

time so i'm gonna round up and perhaps delve more  deeply during the questions thank you thank you so  

much and it was so there was so much in there that  we can pull out in the conversation and so we're  

looking forward to doing that and linking it up  with um others work too so next up um i'm going  

to introduce dr francesco mozarella francesco is  a senior lecturer in fashion and design for social  

change at the london college of fashion where  he works for the center for sustainable fashion  

exploring the ways in which design activism can  be used to create counter narratives towards  

sustainability in fashion and previously francesco  was ahrc design leadership fellow research  

associate at lancaster university with the aim to  support design research for change so it's really  

great to have you here today francesco and i'll  hand over you to talk a bit more about your work  

and perspectives on this topic yes uh thanks  rosie and hi everyone um as rosie said i and  

my work is in fashion and design for social change  and i use a design activism approach to design for  

sustainability at center for sustainable fashion  since the inception of the center we our ambition  

was to build a transformed fashion system towards  psychological social cultural and environmental  

um and economic sustainability but my approach  to uh design for sustainability it's to start  

from culture as an entry point to develop  a more personal authentic and perhaps even  