[Tinker] I probably think about feet

私は一般の人より 足について頻繁に考える

a lot more than the average person.

シューズデザイナーだからだ

As a shoe designer, I have to.

足は 歩いたり 走ったりするためにある

Our feet were made to walk, and run and climb once in a while.

裸足でも十分 可能だ

Bare feet can be great at all of that.

でも現代のアスリートは

But what the modern athlete asks of their feet

足により多くのことを 求めている

is far beyond what they were originally designed to do.

私の仕事は どんなシューズなら

My job is to think about how to make these very capable natural instruments

足の力をより引き出せるかを 考えることだ

perform even better.

アート･オブ･デザイン

[upbeat harmonica music playing]

フットウエアデザイン Ｔ･ハットフィールド

That's Tinker Hatfield!

ティンカーだ！

Y'all serious? That's Tink.

これはティンクさ

Tinker Hatfield?

誰だい？

He's a legend!

レジェンドさ

[young man] Is that the dude that created Jordans?

エア･ジョーダンの デザイナー？

[funky electric piano playing]

ハットフィールド サテライト倉庫 オレゴン州 ポートランド

[Parker] In the '80s, Tinker Hatfield started to define

ティンカーが アスリートとの仕事に

what working with an athlete was all about.

専念したのは80年代です

It was a relationship with the athlete,

彼はアスリートを 知ろうと努め

really digging in, getting to know them as athletes.

彼はアスリートを 知ろうと努め マーク･パーカー ナイキＣＥＯ

Ultimately, it's about performance.

[マーク･パーカー] [ナイキＣＥＯ]

But there's so many more layers on top of that.

[マーク･パーカー] [ナイキＣＥＯ] [関係を築いてきました]

[Jordan] Tinker is a mad scientist.

理解することが パフォーマンス向上の鍵です

He came from pole vaulting.

彼は マッド･サイエンティストさ

When I played the game, it was about jumping,

元は棒高跳び選手だ

so, I mean, it was easy to find that synergy

ジャンプという 共通の経験を元に

and a great complement between the two of us.

ジャンプという 共通の経験を元に マイケル･ジョーダン ＮＢＡ優勝６回

What we did as a team was we were able to build a product that sustained time.

[マイケル･ジョーダン] [ＮＢＡ優勝６回]

It catered to the athlete at the highest level

[マイケル･ジョーダン] [ＮＢＡ優勝６回] [敬意を持って協力できた]

to the point where they still can play in that same shoe,

敬意を持って協力できた

thirty years later.

２人で組んで 息の長い製品を作ったんだ

[funky electric piano continues playing]

30年経っても同じ靴で

[song ends abruptly]

アスリートを 満足させることができる

Well, that was crappy.

ヘタだな

I never used to think about design.

デザインに興味はなかった

I was always focused on being an athlete.

夢は運動選手だったよ

In high school, I won some state championships,

高校時代 州の大会で優勝し

and I even received a full athletic scholarship

奨学金で オレゴン大学に進んだ

to the University of Oregon,

そこでビル･バウワーマンに 出会ったんた

where I met an enormously influential man by the name of Bill Bowerman.

[コーチ　選手の―]

Coach, I'd be interested in your reaction

[指導について] [聞かせてください]

in participating in the coaching of these world-class athletes.

ビルと呼んでくれ

First, Hal, call me Bill.

コーチと呼ばれるのは 嫌いなんだ

Remember, I don't like to be called coach. I am sensitive about that.

“競争力を高める指導者”と 彼は呼ばれ

[chuckles] Okay.

勝つ方法を教えた

[Tinker] His real title that he liked was Teacher of Competitive Response.

ナイキの創設者でもある

He was trying to help people learn how to win.

私が入学した時 彼は シューズをデザインしていた

He is also one of the two founders of Nike.

私が入学した時 彼は シューズをデザインしていた ナイキ コルテッツ １９７２年

So when I came here, he was designing Nike running shoes and track spikes.

[ナイキ] [コルテッツ] [１９７２年]

He was liable to do and try anything to make his athletes better.

選手の向上のために 何でもする人さ

He used to have a little cobbler shop right underneath the grandstands.

競技場のスタンド下に 靴工房を構え―

If you weren't careful,

ボーっとしている選手を 見つけては頼むんだ

he might just pop out of that cobbler shop and grab you by the scruff of the shirt

試作品を試すようにね

and tell you to try on these shoes and run around the track.

靴擦れが 起きたこともあったよ

Sometimes they would be great,

棒高跳び選手の私に

and sometimes you would come back bleeding.

“チャンピオンになれる”と ビルは言ってくれた

One of my events was the pole vault,

棒高跳びには危険が多い

and Bill believed that I had the potential to be a national champion,

“跳ぶんだ”という 強い意志を持たなければ

and even become an Olympian.

けがをしてしまう

[slow-paced music playing]

やり遂げるには努力が必要だ

Pole-vaulting is fraught with all kinds of danger.

“必ず飛び越える”という 決意でバーに向かう

If you don't have a real strong sense of

後戻りはできない

"I'm committing to doing this, and I'm doing it,"

宙を舞い―

you can get really hurt.

体を反転させながら バーを飛び越える

In order to deal with that, you have to kind of just go for it.

ポールを放し宙を飛ぶと―

You have to have this mentality,

頭がさえ 感動に震える

like you're going to just blow through a wall.

オレゴン大学 ヘイワード・フィールド

You can't back off.

大学２年の時 ５メートルの高さから

Your goal is to somehow get upside down and fly through the air and go over.

地面に落下して足首を折った

There is a moment where you are flying.

５度の外科手術と ２年間のリハビリ

You sort of wake up, and you go, "Wow."

ある晩 病床で 医者の会話を耳にしたんだ

My sophomore year, I fell from about 17 feet on an uneven surface

私の選手生命が 終わったと話していた

and tore my ankle in half.

私が再び活躍できるとは コーチたちも思わなかった

Required five surgeries and two years of rehabilitation.

ビルは言葉ではなく 行為で私を励ましてくれたよ

[piano music playing]

かかとの高いスパイクを―

I was pretty depressed,

足を引きずる私に 作ってくれたんだ

laying in the hospital that night

けがを経験したことで

overhearing the doctors talking about "This kid's career is over."

人の悩みに 対処する力が身についた

There was no way

ビルの尽力で私は チームに残ることができた

that most of the coaching staff felt like I was ever gonna contribute

[オレゴン大学] [建築学部]

to the track team again.

[オレゴン大学] [建築学部] [建築の仕事については] [何の予備知識もなかった]

What was really great though, for me,

建築の仕事については 何の予備知識もなかった

wasn't anything that Bill Bowerman said, it was what he did.

でも絵の才能があると わかったのは朗報だった

Bill would build me special track spikes that had a heel lift on one side

自分でも驚いたよ

because I was limping.

この絵は時間がかかった

That all added to my ability to be a problem solver for other people,

製図用のペンを使って 細部まで描き込んだんだ

because I understand the consequences of injury.

建築を学びながら

He protected me from being just dismissed from the team and losing my scholarship.

ビルのために いくつか仕事もしていた

I had no idea how much work a discipline like Architecture would be.

これは私が描いた―

The good news was that I found out that I could draw

ナイキの初期の 陸上用スパイクのデッサンだ

and it was almost by accident.

自分の考えを 口で伝えるだけではなく

That was a pretty big surprise.

彼のデザインを解釈し デッサンや文で表したんだ

This took a long time to draw, I'll tell you that.

これは当時 彼が 試行錯誤していたスパイクだ

Look at all that little-- that was with a Rapidograph...

実際に私が履いてみて 形を決めていった

And those little tiny marks...

そうやって私は知らぬ間に デザインの手法と

During my college years in Architecture school here,

選手の悩みを解決する手段を 学んだんだ

I also was doing some work for Bill Bowerman.

選手の悩みを解決する手段を 学んだんだ 研究開発 ナイキ Ｔ･ハットフィールド

We came across an actual drawing that I did

[研究開発 ナイキ] [Ｔ･ハットフィールド]

of an early design for one of the very early Nike track spikes.

10年間プレーした プロのバスケット選手の足は

I just wouldn't just, like, tell him what I thought,

ボロボロだ

I would also draw and write down

靴ひもを締め上げるから キツすぎるんだ

some of my, I guess you could say, interpretations of his design.

練習も試合も この状態だと

In this case, he asked me to try out some track spikes he was working with...

足の変形や損傷で 競技が できなくなることもある

and they didn't work.

足をケアして血流をよくし

They actually unscrewed themselves every time I would go and train in them.

履き心地のよい靴を履けば プレーもよくなる

Unbeknownst to all of us, I was learning, I guess,

フリースローレーンに 並んでいる時には

how to design shoes and solve problems for athletes right off the bat.

ひもを緩めて 足を休ませてやれないか？

Go look at the feet of a pro-athlete who's played basketball for ten years.

スローの直後 瞬時にひもを締め

They're trashed, because their shoes are too tight.

相手陣地に 走り出せたら最高だ

They tie their shoes so tight because they need them tight,

ベンチでも靴ひもを緩めず

but they stay that way throughout all their practices and all their games,

常に待機している

and their feet become deformed and damaged and sometimes it incapacitates them.

そこで靴ひもを 自動調整できる―

Our studies tell us that if you take better care of your feet

“アール(ＥＡＲＬ)”の開発に着手した

and get better blood flow, a better fit and better comfort,

[ナイキ デザイン研究所] [オレゴン州] [ビーバートン]

you actually play better.

[ナイキ デザイン研究所] [オレゴン州] [ビーバートン] [まず 開発局の] [ティファニー･ビアーズに]

If you're standing around for a free throw,

まず 開発局の ティファニー･ビアーズに

wouldn't it be great if your shoes loosened up and let your--

プロジェクトを始める 価値があるか相談した

let the blood flow back into your feet

私の一存では 決められないので

and gave your feet a little bit of a rest?

私の一存では 決められないので ティファニー･ビアーズ プロダクト･エンジニア

And as soon as the person shoots the free throw, the shoes know it?

[ティファニー･ビアーズ] [プロダクト･エンジニア]

They know you're going to start moving quickly

[ティファニー･ビアーズ] [プロダクト･エンジニア] [上司のところに] [話に行ったんです]

and they "zzzim" back up again.

上司のところに 話に行ったんです

You go sit on the bench. Why would you leave your shoes tight?

“ティンカーの案なら何でも 採用しろ”と言われました

They would just go "zzzz..." They would relax.

装置の開発から始めました

That's when I started E.A.R.L.

見栄えを保ちつつ

E. A. R. L. Electro Adaptive Reactive Lacing.

ひもの締め方や小型化を 模索しています

[upbeat music playing]

きっと未来を作る プロダクトデザインになる

The first person I talked to about it was really developer Tiffany Beers,

アートとデザインは別物だが デザインにも芸術性はある

to see if we could even entertain the idea of starting a project like this.

創造力豊かな人の 究極的な自己表現が

What did you say?

創造力豊かな人の 究極的な自己表現が エア ソック ダート１ ２００２年

Well, I said I wasn't sure

[エア] [ソック ダート１] [２００２年]

-[Tinker chuckles] -because I didn't report to him.

[エア] [ソック ダート１] [２００２年] [私が思うアートだ]

And so I went and talked to my managers.

デザイナーの私にとっては

They said, "You don't say no to Tinker. Yeah, you just took the project.

自己表現が最終目標ではない

If he asked you, you're taking it."

自己表現が最終目標ではない エア オシレート １９９６年

[both laugh]

誰かの問題の解決が 私の最終目標だ

[Beers] We started to focus primarily on the mechanism.

誰かの問題の解決が 私の最終目標だ エア ハラチ １９９１年

Like, how do we tighten the laces?

[エア] [ハラチ] [１９９１年]

How do we get it small enough that it's performance and it still looks good?

[エア] [ハラチ] [１９９１年] [その上で すごいとか] [カッコいいと]

[Tinker] I think this is a whole new product design

その上で すごいとか カッコいいと

that will be part of the future.

思ってもらえたらうれしい

I think there's art involved in design.

思ってもらえたらうれしい エア タラリア １９９７年

But to me, I don't think of it as art.

デザインの工程を見せよう

My perception of art is that it's really

まず宇宙を描いた

the ultimate self-expression from a creative individual.

その時の気持ちを反映する

For me as a designer,

惑星を描くのが楽しくなって 顔も描いた

it is not the ultimate goal to become self-expressive.

“ジェットソン”もね

The end goal is to solve a problem for someone else,

フォルクスワーゲンに ポルシェ ピースサイン

and hopefully it looks great to someone else

なぜ描いたかは問題じゃない

and it's cool to someone else.

これはスニーカーの底に 埋め込んだカーボンだ

[upbeat music playing]

この見開きから さらにページを進め

This is how design works for me.

具体的なアイデアを 描き始めるんだ

I started drawing space.

見えないシューズを作ってと 誰かに言われたことがある

I was really just trying to reflect my mood at the time.

そこで透明人間を描いてみた

I started to have a little bit of fun with the actual planets

最後にシューズの スケッチに行き着く

and put faces on them and...

意識の流れに身を任せると 途中で迷っても

I put George Jetsen.

どこかにたどり着く

You know, I have a Volkswagen Bus,

私は ここにたどり着いた

Porsche Speedster, peace symbols and fingers.

ナイキは最先端の研究所を 開設し 研究を重ねています

I don't even know why I am doing this, I'm just doing it.

ナイキは業界を リードしていました

I drew a cheetah foot that's actually embedded inside of a sneaker.

主力分野はバスケットと ジョギングです

And I'm kind of moving through from that first page of space.

エアロビクスの流行で リーボックが台頭します

Now I'm getting more specific about innovation in general.

リーボックは 画期的なシューズを発明した

I remember somebody telling me it'd be great

波に乗ったリーボックは ナイキより大企業になった

if Nike could do shoes that were invisible and I drew the Invisible Man.

ナイキはパニックに陥り 社員を解雇し始めた

This is just all stuff that's coming to my head

デザイン部門の強化も図られ

and I'm just sketching.

24時間デザインコンテストが 開催された

All of this stuff ended up in a drawing of a shoe.

当時 ティンカーの担当は シューズではなく

A stream of consciousness can lead you some place.

展示デザインでした

You may not even know where you're headed,

コンテスト当日 私は寝ずに働いた

but somehow you end up somewhere, and here I ended up with a shoe.

他の参加者が発表した 多くの作品には

[TV commercial announcer] Today at Nike, we know even more.

物語のあるユニークなものは なかった

We developed one of the most sophisticated sport research labs in the world.

私はプレゼンも楽しんだ

[Parker] Nike had grown up very fast.

デザインしたのは スクーターに最適な靴だ

We were leading the industry,

その靴で散歩も ジョギングもできる

focused on basketball and running.

コンテストの２日後 私は唐突に―

[upbeat music playing]

“今日からシューズ デザイナーだ”と言われたよ

Reebok came along, there was this aerobics craze.

そして じきに リードデザイナーになった

[Tinker] Reebok invented aerobics shoes. It was a whole new thing.

最初の担当は エア･マックスで

They had the right product at the right time,

発想を転換する きっかけになった

and they actually passed Nike in size.

ナイキでは袋にガスを封入し 靴底のクッションにしていた

So there was a bit of a panic and Nike was laying people off right and left.

このエアバックを大きくし

They were also thinking that they needed to upgrade their design group.

ミッドソールとして 露出させようと考えた

So, I was invited to be a part of a 24-hour design contest.

子どもの頃に見た エルトン･ジョンの―

[bike revs]

子どもの頃に見た エルトン･ジョンの― マイケル･ヘイニー エスクァイア誌 編集取締役

[Parker] Tinker wasn't a shoe designer at the time.

[マイケル･ヘイニー] [エスクァイア誌] [編集取締役]

He was designing trade shows and displays and retail.

[マイケル･ヘイニー] [エスクァイア誌] [編集取締役] [ハイヒールに近いです]

[Tinker] I worked the whole 24 hours. I didn't go to bed that night.

[マイケル･ヘイニー] [エスクァイア誌] [編集取締役]

Most of the other designers,

[マイケル･ヘイニー] [エスクァイア誌] [編集取締役] [ヒールの中に] [金魚が入っていました]

I think, just tried to work off of what they were already doing,

ヒールの中に 金魚が入っていました

and it wasn't really anything very unique in terms of storytelling.

とにかく とても パンクだったのです

I came back in with a big presentation,

パリに行った時

sort of having fun with the fact that this was the perfect shoe

市民の意見を 二分していた建物を見た

to ride a motor scooter in.

レンゾ･ピアノ設計の ポンピドゥーセンターだ

[laughs]

その建物は内側の構造が 外から丸見えなんだ

And then get out and then jog around and walk around a little bit.

その建物は内側の構造が 外から丸見えなんだ パリの新美術館 好きか嫌いか

Two days after the competition,

その建物は内側の構造が 外から丸見えなんだ

I was... I wasn't even asked,

その建物は内側の構造が 外から丸見えなんだ 論争 巻き起こる

I was told that I was now a footwear designer for Nike. [chuckles]

原色中心の配色も 嫌悪される理由だった

In a very short period of time, I pretty much became the lead designer.

私はそれにヒントを得て エアバックを露出させたんだ

[guitar music playing]

そのスケッチを 発表した時には

One of my very first projects was the Air Max.

やり過ぎだと議論になった

I felt like this was an opportunity to think way differently.

私たちを解雇させようと 抗議する人たちもいた

Nike was encapsulating gas inside a urethane airbag

“エアバッグを―”

for a cushioning component.

“露出させて売るなんて ナンセンスだ”とね

I thought, "Let's make the bag a little bit wider, make sure it's stable,

でもエア･マックス１は

but then let's remove part of the midsole, so we actually see it."

でもエア･マックス１は 走るを再定義

The closest you'd come to anything before that was, I remember as a kid,

[走るを再定義]

seeing Elton John having high-heeled shoes with a goldfish inside of them.

[走るを再定義] [フットウエア史空前の] [ヒット商品となった]

Right? I mean, it was simply, like, very... punk even.

フットウエア史空前の ヒット商品となった

[Tinker] I had gone to Paris

リスクを背負ったシューズは

and seen a very controversial and loved or mostly hated building,

物語を語る 優れた製品になった

The Georges Pompidou Center, designed by Renzo Piano.

エア･マックスが出た頃

It was a building with all of the inside mechanics on the outside of the building.

運動ごとに靴を変える人は 少なかった

He painted everything in primary colors just to piss off people even more.

競技の種類を問わず 同じ靴でプレーしていたんだ

I was very much inspired by that building,

だから けがをしやすい

and that's how I ended up exposing these airbags in the Air Max.

そこでクロストレーニング用 シューズをデザインした

After those sketches came out,

側部を安定させるため 甲にストラップをつけた

it was widely discussed that I had pushed it too far.

この一足で あらゆる スポーツに対応できるんだ

People were trying to get us fired,

この靴が 売れ始めたきっかけは

they were screaming like there was no way in the world

ジョン･マッケンローだった

that we could ever sell a shoe with an exposed airbag

どうかしてる！