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HI, I'M RICK STEVES, BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME, WE'RE IN LONDON AGAIN.
THIS CITY JUST KEEPS ON GETTING BETTER.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
LONDON'S QUINTESSENTIALLY ENGLISH, YET COSMOPOLITAN.
IT'S A CITY WHERE THE NEW AND MODERN
SEEMS TO MINGLE ENTHUSIASTICALLY WITH THE OLD AND TRADITIONAL.
I KEEP COMING BACK AND ALWAYS FIND A FRESH TRAVEL EXPERIENCE.
WE'LL CHECK OUT THE NEW, LIKE THE MILLENNIUM BRIDGE
AND THE BRITISH MUSEUM'S GREAT COURT,
AND ADMIRE THE OLD, LIKE A LEONARDO
AND FRAGMENTS OF THE PARTHENON.
WE'LL RESPECT TRADITION...
THE ROYAL FAMILY, THEY LIVED ON THE TOP FLOOR.
...AND DO SOME SHOPPING.
AND AFTER A BITE OF TASTY ENGLISH CHEESE,
WE'LL HIKE THE NEWLY REVIVED SOUTH BANK OF THE THAMES.
LONDON, STRADDLING THE RIVER THAMES, IS VAST,
BUT EVERYTHING WE'LL SEE IS WITHIN A FEW MINUTES
BY TAXI, BUS OR TUBE.
WE'LL CHECK OUT HYDE PARK,
THE BRITISH MUSEUM,
THE NATIONAL GALLERY
AND, OF COURSE, THE TOWER OF LONDON.
WE'LL WALK FROM ST. PAUL'S ACROSS THE MILLENNIUM BRIDGE
TO VISIT THE TATE MODERN GALLERY
AND THE ATTRACTIONS OF LONDON'S SOUTH BANK.
LONDON WAS CUTTING EDGE IN THE '60s AND IT'S BACK,
IN VOGUE AGAIN FOR FASHION, ARCHITECTURE,
THE ARTS AND FOOD.
SMOKY PUBS ARE GIVING WAY TO TRENDY OUTDOOR CAFES.
LONDON'S CITY HALL SEEMS TO ENDORSE THE WAVE
OF CONTEMPORARY ARCHITECTURE WHICH STUDS THE BUSY SKYLINE
AND SEEMS TO CLAMOR FOR ATTENTION.
STROLLING THROUGH LONDON'S PARKS IS A REMINDER
THAT SO MANY PEOPLE CALL LONDON,
NOT A WORLD-CLASS SIGHT-SEEING DESTINATION,
BUT SIMPLY HOME.
THE PARKS, LIKE JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING IN THE CITY,
SIT ON A FOUNDATION OF HISTORY.
THESE INVITING GREEN SPACES,
ONCE THE HUNTING GROUNDS OF KINGS,
ARE NOW THE SUNBATHING GROUNDS OF COMMONERS.
AND THESE LONDONERS MAY NOT REALIZE THAT THEY VERY WELL
COULD BE SPEAKING FRENCH IF IT WASN'T FOR THE HEROICS
OF THE MAN WHO LIVED RIGHT HERE.
APSLEY HOUSE WAS THE MANSION OF THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON,
WHO BEAT NAPOLEON AT WATERLOO IN 1815.
THE DUKE'S GUESTS WERE GREETED BY THE MAN HE DEFEATED,
A LARGER-THAN-LIFE, NEARLY NAKED NAPOLEON.
THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON WAS ONCE THE MOST FAMOUS MAN IN EUROPE.
HIS LAVISH LIVING QUARTERS ARE EMBELLISHED
BY GIFTS SHOWERED ON HIM BY A GRATEFUL EUROPE,
INCLUDING 200 PAINTINGS,
STILL DISPLAYED MUCH AS THE ART-LOVING DUKE HUNG THEM.
WELLINGTON'S VICTORY OVER NAPOLEON AND THE FRENCH
SET THE STAGE FOR BRITAIN'S GLORIOUS VICTORIAN AGE,
WHEN IT WAS THE WORLD'S ONLY SUPERPOWER
AND THE SUN NEVER SET UPON ITS EMPIRE.
THIS WAS THE REIGN OF QUEEN VICTORIA,
WHO RULED FROM 1837 TO 1901.
THE VICTORIAN AGE WAS AN EXUBERANT TIME.
THE NEO-GOTHIC ALBERT MEMORIAL REMINDS LONDON
HOW VICTORIA'S BELOVED HUSBAND ALBERT --
THE ONLY ONE WHO CALLED HER VICKIE --
DID SO MUCH TO PROMOTE TECHNOLOGY AND CULTURE
DURING THAT INDUSTRIAL BOOM TIME.
THE STATUES AT THE BASE HERALD THE GREAT ACCOMPLISHMENTS
OF BRITAIN'S 19th-CENTURY GLORY DAYS.
ALBERT DIED IN 1861.
HIS WIFE, QUEEN VICTORIA,
WAS POSSIBLY THE WORLD'S MOST DETERMINED MOURNER.
SHE WORE BLACK FOR THE STANDARD TWO YEARS,
AND THEN TACKED ON 38 MORE FOR GOOD MEASURE.
TAKING MOURNING TO NEW HEIGHTS,
SHE REQUIRED THAT THE CITY'S ONCE-COLORFUL FINIALS
BE PAINTED BLACK, AS THEY REMAIN TODAY.
THE QUEEN BUILT GRAND MONUMENTS TO HER ALBERT,
LIKE THE ROYAL ALBERT HALL.
THE IMMENSE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM
IS NAMED FOR THE ROYAL COUPLE WHO DID SO MUCH
TO SUPPORT THE MANY TRIUMPHS OF THEIR DAY.
LIKE LOTS OF LONDON'S TOP ATTRACTIONS, IT'S FREE.
THE V&A GREW OUT OF THE GREAT EXHIBITION OF 1851.
THIS FIRST WORLD'S FAIR,
HOUSED IN A TEMPORARY GLASS AND STEEL PEOPLE'S PALACE,
CELEBRATED THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION
AND THE GREATNESS OF BRITAIN.
THE THEME OF THE BRITAIN GALLERIES
IS STYLE, TASTE AND DESIGN FROM 1500 THROUGH 1900.
FOUR HUNDRED YEARS OF ENGLISH FASHION HISTORY
ARE CORSETED INTO A SERIES OF EXQUISITE DISPLAY CASES.
THIS PAINTING FROM AROUND 1600 IS OF A WOMAN
WEARING THIS ACTUAL GARMENT.
IT WAS TYPICAL FORMAL DAYWEAR,
LINEN AND SILK EMBROIDERED WITH SILVER THREAD.
NIGHTCAPS WERE FASHIONABLE AMONG ARISTOCRATIC MEN.
THIS TORTOISESHELL AND SILVER TOILETRIES KIT
SHOWS THAT IN 1640, CAREFUL GROOMING WAS AS IMPORTANT
AS DRESSING MAGNIFICENTLY.
IN THE 1670s, SHOES WERE CALLED "STRAIGHTS,"
AND THERE WAS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN RIGHT AND LEFT.
WHALEBONE AND LACING KEPT TORSOS FLAT AND LONG.
FANS WERE TOOLS FOR FLIRTING.
IT WAS SAID, WHILE A MAN'S WEAPON WAS A SWORD,
A WOMAN'S WEAPON WAS A FAN, AND THE FAN DID MORE DAMAGE.
IN THE 1740s, A RICH WOMAN'S COURT DRESS
WAS AN EXTRAVAGANT DISPLAY OF WEALTH,
EVEN IF IT MEANT SHE ENTERED ROOMS SIDEWAYS.
THE HUGE COLLECTION ILLUSTRATES
THE FAR REACH OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE,
FROM ITS EXQUISITE INDIAN ART
TO ITS SUMPTUOUS HALL OF CHINESE ARTIFACTS.
THE HALL OF CASTS IS FILLED WITH PLASTER COPIES
OF EUROPE'S GREATEST STATUARY, MADE FOR THE BENEFIT
OF LONDON'S 19TH-CENTURY ART STUDENTS
WHO COULDN'T AFFORD A RAIL PASS.
STUDENTS COULD COMPARE THE RENAISSANCE GENIUS
OF DONATELLO, WHOSE DAVID WAS EUROPE'S FIRST MALE NUDE
SINCE ROMAN TIMES, AND THAT OF MICHELANGELO A CENTURY LATER,
WITH HIS MORE HEROIC DAVID.
AROUND THE BACK YOU'LL FIND THAT THIS DAVID
CAME WITH AN ACCESSORY, A CLIP-ON FIG LEAF.
AS THIS WAS THE VICTORIAN AGE,
WHEN ROYAL LADIES CAME TO VISIT,
THEY'D HANG IT ON THE STATUE FOR MODESTY.
IF THE DELIGHTS OF THE V&A WHET YOUR SHOPPING APPETITE,
LONDON'S VICTORIAN GALLERIES
EVOKE SHOPPING IN THE 19th CENTURY.
AND ALL OVER LONDON YOU'LL FIND INVITING LITTLE SHOPS
FOR WHATEVER TREASURE YOU FANCY.
HARRODS IS LONDON'S VAST AND VENERABLE DEPARTMENT STORE.
IT'S HUGE -- 300 DEPARTMENTS,
A MILLION SQUARE FEET ON SEVEN FLOORS --
YET CLASSY.
THE FOOD HALLS, WITH THEIR EDWARDIAN-TILED WALLS,
DELICIOUS DISPLAYS,
TEMPTING EATERIES
AND STAFF IN PERIOD COSTUMES, ARE LOTS OF FUN.
A SMALL SHRINE INVITES VISITORS TO PAY THEIR RESPECTS
TO PRINCESS DIANA AND DODI AL-FAYED,
WHOSE FATHER OWNS HARRODS.
THE EGYPTIAN ESCALATOR IS A REMINDER
THAT MR. AL-FAYED IS FROM EGYPT,
AND HE'S SPENT A FORTUNE
REVITALIZING THIS HISTORIC DEPARTMENT STORE.
RIDING IT, YOU ASCEND INTO HARRODS' SHOPPING WONDERLAND.
YOU'LL FIND EVERYTHING
FROM SPRAWLING HALLS OF DESIGNER WOMEN'S WEAR
TO TRADITIONAL MEN'S WEAR
TO A $12,000 MINI-JAGUAR FOR THE KID WHO HAS EVERYTHING.
HUGE EUROPEAN CITIES LIKE LONDON ARE MADE MANAGEABLE
BY EXCELLENT SUBWAY SYSTEMS.
LONDON'S MIGHTY TUBE TAKES US ANYWHERE IN THE CENTER
FOR LESS THAN THE COST OF A CUCUMBER SANDWICH AT HARRODS.
WE'RE ON OUR WAY TO THE BRITISH MUSEUM.
AT THE PEAK OF ITS EMPIRE,
WHEN THE UNION JACK FLEW OVER A QUARTER OF THE PLANET,
ENGLAND COLLECTED ART AND ARTIFACTS AS FAST
AS IT COLLECTED COLONIES.
THIS PLACE, THE BRITISH MUSEUM, IS THE SHOWCASE
FOR THOSE EXTRAORDINARY TREASURES.
ITS CENTERPIECE IS THE GREAT COURT,
AN IMPRESSIVE EXAMPLE OF EUROPE'S KNACK
FOR PRESERVING OLD ARCHITECTURAL SPACES
BY MAKING THEM FRESH, FUNCTIONAL AND INVITING.
THE STATELY READING ROOM,
A TEMPLE OF KNOWLEDGE AND HIGH THINKING, WAS THE STUDY HALL
FOR OSCAR WILDE, RUDYARD KIPLING AND T.S. ELIOT.
KARL MARX RESEARCHED RIGHT HERE WHILE WRITING "DAS KAPITAL."
THE BRITISH MUSEUM IS THE CHRONICLE
OF WESTERN CIVILIZATION.
YOU CAN STUDY THREE GREAT CIVILIZATIONS --
EGYPT, ASSYRIA AND GREECE -- IN ONE FASCINATING MORNING.
THE EGYPTIAN COLLECTION IS THE GREATEST OUTSIDE OF EGYPT.
IT'S KICKED OFF WITH THE ROSETTA STONE,