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  • This is Snow White.


  • This is her evil step mother.


  • You know them from Snow White and the Seven dwarves.


  • You know this outfit and this one, But are they accurate?


  • We got this Fashion historian.


  • Hi, I'm Rice Britannia and I'm a fashion historian to walk us through what the movie got right and what they got wrong about these looks.


  • First, let's establish the setting.


  • 16th century Germany.


  • How do we know this?


  • There are little touches of German culture throughout Snow White, including these tankers that are seen in the dwarves home.


  • Why 16th century storybook at the beginning of the film closely matches manuscript from the 16th century.


  • Let's start Snow White's iconic blue and yellow dress right off the bat.


  • We can tell that this is a 19 thirties interpretation of the past.


  • Snow White and The Seven Dwarfs was released in 1937 and was the first animated feature length film, so it was really based on real people and real garments.


  • Take a look at the model for Snow White, so Snow White's face is really based on 1930 starlets like Heddy Lamar with the dark hair that's short and quashed the big eyes, small lips and the arched eyebrows.


  • So this is not accurate.


  • Let's draw snow white stress from the undergarments out.


  • First up the underwear.


  • So the primary undergarment was called the smoke, and it was the precursor to the Shami's, which we've talked about before.


  • The smoke is basically a very long shirt with very long full sleeves, and nothing was worn underneath.


  • Actually, next up, stockings looks like they forgot the stockings again.


  • For hundreds of years, women wore stockings, and this time period was no different.


  • And then the stays.


  • This is an earlier iteration of the corset called stays or pair of bodies.


  • Because there aren't very many surviving garments.


  • Here's a later version of the stays.


  • Ah, lot of garments from this time period don't survive because it was hundreds of years ago and these garments disintegrated Over time, we really have to turn to paintings to know what 16th century garments looked like.


  • The stays were designed to mold the torso into the fashionable cylindrical shape and to flatten and raise the bus line so you can see that there's this channel that runs down the center of the stays and into that you would insert what was called a busk, which is a long, straight piece of either whale bone or metal or wood that was meant to keep that front part really, really straight.


  • So even though the bucks weren't seen and kind of privately worn on the inside of your garment, they often had little private messages engraved on them.


  • The next layer, the farthingale, was the foundation garment worn on the lower half of the body to create the shape of the skirt.


  • The specific example is called the Spanish Farthingale, and it really is a skirt that stiffened with concentric rings that create that triangular shape.


  • And then another foundation garment.


  • Snow white would have been wearing a curdle, which was the precursor to the petty coat and this Haddon attached bodice.


  • And now the dress you can see with snow white stress that it almost looks like two pieces because they're different colored bodice and skirt.


  • In the 16th century, these garments were one piece with the bodies attached to the skirt, usually in matching colors.


  • This is where over that farthingale, so there's no way she would have been like lifting up her skirt in the way that she doesn't movie blowing skirt that has a lot of movement was kind of reminiscent of the Ginger Rogers type skirts of the 19 thirties.

    これは、そのファージンゲールの上にあるので、彼女が彼女のスカートを持ち上げるような方法ではありませんので、彼女は多くの動きを持っているスカートを吹いていない映画のような方法で彼女のスカートを持ち上げていただろう方法は、一種の19 30年代のジンジャーロジャースタイプのスカートを彷彿とさせた。

  • If we look closely, we see that Snow White actually has this line running down the front of her bodice, and I think that's interesting because Italian and German dresses usually laced up the front, so that could be a hint towards that.


  • So that's the next layer.


  • There's actually a really interesting overlap here because puffy sleeves were pretty fashionable in both the 19 thirties and the 16th century.


  • Sleeves were detachable and tied onto the dress.


  • One way that these sleeves were decorated was through either slashing or painting.


  • At the top of the sleeve, we can see an example of painting strips of fabric that were sown around the sleeve, revealing the smoke underneath.


  • Let's go close in on snow white sleeves.


  • Here you can see there's contrast ing fabric, and it looks like it could be painting with those strips that reveal the other fabric underneath.


  • Another method of doing this is called slashing to making small slits in the fabric and then pulling pieces of the smoke through, creating little puffs.


  • The goal was really to show off the fabric underneath.


  • Textiles were incredibly valuable during this time period, so if you had it, you wanted to show it off as a way to display your wealth.


  • The next layer accessories.


  • You can see Snow White's collar here, but it would probably look a little more like this one here.


  • She could have been wearing what was called a part lit, which is a rectangular piece of cloth that's tucked into the neckline of the dress, kind of to fill it in over that could be worn a rough, which was a unisex accessory.

    彼女はパートライトと呼ばれるものを 着ていたかもしれません それは長方形の布の一部です それはドレスのネックラインに隠されています それを埋めるようなものです それはラフを着用することができます それはユニセックスのアクセサリーでした

  • The rough was basically a piece of stiffened or starched linen that was often trimmed with lace and then pleaded to create that dimensional shape.


  • And then the shoes for this looks Snow White is wearing these cute little pumps with bows on them, and these air straight out of the 19 thirties.

    そして、このための靴は、白雪姫は、それらの上に弓でこれらのかわいい小さなパンプスを身に着けていると、これらの空気はまっすぐに19 30年代の外に見えます。

  • The shape of the hell really says 19 thirties to me, and the little bows look like they could be shoe clips, which were very fashionable at the time.


  • Not many shoes survived from this time period, and if we're really looking at portraiture.


  • You don't really see shoes because the skirts were so long moving on to the hair.


  • Snow White's hair is probably the most 19 thirties aspect of her look because it's short and curly, and she has this cute little bow.

    白雪姫の髪は短くてカールしていて、彼女はこのかわいい小さな弓を持っているので、おそらく彼女の外観の最も19 30代の側面です。

  • Disney really wanted these characters to look like movie stars, because that's what the audience is.


  • We're going to the movies to see.


  • In the 16th century, most of your hair would actually be covered by a hood.


  • This particular example is called a French hood.


  • The French hood is a small headpiece made on a stiffened frame with a long veil attached to it.


  • So here's what Snow White's dress would have looked like compared to the original Disney look.


  • Let's move on to the Evil Queen right off the bat.


  • I can see that she is a combination of a 19 thirties movie star, but dressed in medieval style.


  • Here you can really see how closely she resembles Joan Crawford, especially in the arched eyebrows, long lashes and the very distinctively shaped lips.


  • One of my favorite details is that we see the queen's hands as she's mixing the potion and her manicure is actually straight out of 1937 so this isn't accurate, either.


  • Now we're going to draw every layer of the queen stress first up the underwear, her undergarments or no different.


  • She would also be wearing a smock and stockings and then the foundation garments.


  • She would also be wearing stays and a curdle, and then the next layer.


  • We start to get a bit of a difference with the farthingale, because on top of the farthingale, we're going to add a bum role.


  • A bum role is kind of a crescent shaped, padded piece of fabric that is tied around the waist and is used to soften the hip line.


  • We can see in this portrait of Queen Elizabeth that the top of her skirt isn't, ah, hard triangle, but more of a soft slope.


  • And that's because of the added bum role and then the beginning of the dress.


  • On top of that should have an under skirt, which featured a four part and a four.


  • Part is a triangular piece of decorative fabric that showed with an open front gown and then the dress.


  • She is the queen, so she'd be wearing a gown made out of a rich velvet or an ostentatious metallic lee brocaded fabric broke.


  • Aiding is the incorporation of metallic threads into fabric, making them shiny and luxurious.


  • There were actually laws that dictated what kind of fabrics could be worn by which people and these were called sanctuary laws.


  • Not only were these fabrics expensive, but they also just weren't available to people who weren't royalty and then the sleeves.


  • This particular style of sleeve was modular, so there was the four sleeve on the bottom, the upper sleeve and then the over sleeve.


  • We can see that the queen has thes long dramatic sleeves, but those really look more like medieval styles.


  • In the 16th century, similar silhouettes existed, and they looked more like this.


  • And this portrait of the Duchess.


  • We see that her over sleeves are lined with a very sumptuous fabric so that when they're turned back there very prominently on display and then the collar.


  • Perhaps the most iconic feature of the queen's costume is her standing collar, but it would actually look more like this one, so this type of color was called a Medici color, and it really stood straight up at the back and was open in the front.


  • We call it this because it was introduced in the 16th century by Marie de Medici.


  • As we can see in this portrait, the Medici family was very influential, especially in fashion.


  • Then her cape.


  • We see that the queen is wearing a long cape that's trimmed with white fur, but these were really only worn by monarchs for coronation ceremonies and other court occasions.


  • I think the Cape is really used here more to establish her character and make her look more villainy.


  • You can see the queen descending the stairs here with her cape dramatically flowing behind her.


  • But that probably wouldn't have been possible with such heavy materials like velvet lined with fur and then her shoes.


  • Right here we can see a glimpse of her shoes, and they look like 19 thirties style orange pumps.

    このように、私たちは彼女の靴の垣間見ることができますし、彼らは19 30年代スタイルのオレンジ色のパンプスのように見えます。

  • Next, her hair.


  • We actually don't see the queen's hair in the movie because she wears a black head covering that completely in cases her head and neck.


  • This type of head covering is seen in medieval styles, not in 16th century styles.


  • Royal Portrait show different hairstyles in this period, but again, most of the hair would be covered by a hood.


  • In this portrait, we see a variation on the French hood with a flat top instead of the curved one.


  • Finally, the crown, the black head covering and the crown that we see on The Queen is actually really similar to a costume scene in a movie called She, which came out just two years before so that crown is more of a contemporary costume than a historically accurate piece.


  • Her crown would actually be a lot shorter with inset jewels.


  • You can see a rope tied around the queen's waste, and that almost looks like something from the 16th century called the Girdle.


  • There was a fashion accessory, which was a jeweled or beaded belt that was worn around the waist and then hung down straight in front of this skirt.


  • So this is what the evil queen would have looked like compared to the original Disney look.


  • Even though these looks aren't historically accurate by a long shot, they were right for the film and right for the time, because it was really important to appeal to the audiences of 1937 again.


  • This was the first animated feature length film, so they had a lot going on without having to worry about historical accuracy.


  • Thes two characters really set the standard and created a template for what a Disney princess and a Disney villain would look like.


  • So that's what Snow White and the Evil Queen would have looked like if they lived in history.


  • Mm, don't.


This is Snow White.



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B1 中級 日本語 白雪 女王 スカート 衣服 ドレス 世紀

白雪姫&女王のドレスを専門家がファッションチェック。| VOGUE JAPAN (白雪姫&女王のドレスを専門家がファッションチェック。| VOGUE JAPAN)

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    林宜悉 に公開 2020 年 09 月 13 日