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This is the lock picking lawyer, and rarely does a day go by when I'm not asked what bike lock I use.
So that's the question I'm going to address today.
I should start by noting that I have two bikes.
One is a nice road bike that I never leave anywhere unattended.
If I need to stop on a ride, either leave it with my writing partner where I carry it with me.
But I have another bike, a really cheap one that I bought for the sole purpose of riding when I anticipate locking and leaving it.
So that's defense number one.
Riding a bike that's not going to unduly attract or 10 thieves.
This lock is defense number two.
It's the Kryptonite Evolution series four.
Bicycle chain lock.
This is the 90 centimeter variant, though there are also 55 160 centimeter versions.
I just bought this for my personal use.
Now that we have some nice riding weather and because I am going to use it, I'm not showing the key bidding on camera, So let's talk about why I chose this first.
It's a chain lock, and that gives me lots of flexibility when locking my bike as opposed to a U lock.
This chain is a 10 millimeter hex link design made of a robust man, Johnny Steele, and I think 10 millimeters is just about as big as you can go while still retaining good portability.
I think chains are also more resistant to angle grinders than you locks, because chain links are hard to hold steady in field conditions.
I've tried doing it, and the best solution I came up with was using Vice grips to hold it steady.
But it still doesn't work very well.
If you's a compressed, abrasive cutting wheel, which I think cuts the fastest, it's almost certainly going to miss a line at some point and explosively shatter.
It's very dangerous.
That leaves diamond impregnated steel wheels, which can work but are slower and far more costly.
So let's turn to the lock now that holds everything closed.
We have a thick, hardened steel armor on the outside and an aluminum casting inside.
The locking mechanism itself is fairly robust.
It is not subject to Shiming attacks or any other bypasses that I've been able to come up with.
That leaves us with the disk detainer core.
Is it awesome?
No, and I can certainly pick it, but it's probably good enough.
And that's how I characterize this entire package.
Probably good enough.
I could certainly spend Maur and get something.
Be fear or more pick resistant.
But given that the lock literally costs as much as the bike it's going to secure, I'm not sure that spending more would make a whole lot of sense.
So all that said, let's lock this up and see what it takes to pick it open.
Going to remove this key out of the frame of the camera.
Now, the first thing we're going to do is rotate all of those disks.
As far clockwise is, they will go.
Now that we've done this, I'm going to get this disc detainer.
Pick that Bosnian bill and I made and try to pick up disc number one.
I think I've done that.
And so we're tensioning off of one.
Let's find disc number two.
Okay, click at it too.
Three is loose.
That's probably a zero cut.
We may have to come back to that later.
Four.
Okay.
Got a nice click out of four.
Okay.
I think for a set.
Five binding Gotta click out of five.
Six is binding.
Here we go.
Gotta click out of six.
Seven.
Feels like another zero cut.
Let's actually use that one for tension trying to set disc number one now so it doesn't take that long for me to open.
But I suspect this would be well beyond the skills of the average bike thief.
At least that's what I'm hoping.
In any case, that's all I have for you today.
If you do have any questions or comments about this, please put them below.
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And, as always, have a nice day.
Thank you.