It's it's covered in dust, I said at the start.

This build was never intended to be a fast one, just one that I could kind of build on in my spare time because it's full of skunk works and I wanted to be awesome.

So I've been sort of toying around with some ideas for the loop, as I already showed you guys, we're going with the chrome tubing, which is chrome plated brass tube.

There was a lot of confusion in that last video, I guess I didn't explain very well, but it's metal tube.

I'm not painted chrome painted plastic.

But anyway, I digress.

That's besides the point.

We are gonna kind of show you guys how I get that past your life.

You guys have asked, How do you pass those tubes through the floor, through the back wall and stuff?

And I know kind of where I want somebody goes.

We're going to focus on that today and then we've got some really cool stuff coming regarding reservoirs that I want to be different so That's one of the reasons why this one's taken so long.

To be honest, it's been back bird like we did the custom I t X building all that.

We're gonna be doing another one.

You guys want to see more mods were doing another case, Mind coming up.

So we're gonna work on this one slowly in between projects because this is mine.

I can wait.

I can wait a little bit.

I'm not that impatient.

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So we're gonna do today is I know that I want both of the tubes from the CPU to kind of come up and 90 back through this wall right there.

I don't know how to do this part.

Yeah, I need the reservoir first.

Trust me, the thing we've got, hopefully coming for this is absolutely bonkers.

So I've done this in Skunk Works.

I did this in Red Mist and spent a long time since I've done those built.

And I showed how to do it then.

But a lot of people, when they see pictures of my very skunk works and stuff, they don't go back and look at those logs Were just gonna kind of show you how that works.

So first thing we're gonna need here, obviously are some fittings and such.

The nice thing about micro center now as they carry bits power and E k.

And all those products now and those brands in store.

So way ran down a micro center and we picked up these fittings.

If you guys wanna links to, these will be down the description below.

But what we use here, it's called Phil port.

It's kind of funny.

Not not p h i l not Phil.

Port, like a port fulfills these also where it could be called bulkhead fittings.

And it really depends on the brand on what they're going to be called, to be honest.

So this is what it is right here.

It's just a fitting that, as you can see, it's court GI quarter thread all the way through, and it's also threaded on the outside so that this caller can lock down on there.

And so what you end up with here ultimately is just something that you drill a hole, a hole that's gotta match this size, and I'll show you how we achieve that.

And then you put this through the hole that goes to the other side.

There's an O ring here to keep it from spinning because then what will happen is you go to tighten down the fittings onto this.

This fitting will just spin, and you'll never get a tight seal.

So the ring kind of gives it some compression there to allow it to sort of have some friction, and then you just clamp it, which is what we're doing here.

So we do like one there and one there.

So we've got to do is we gotta actually measure because the caller on this is not very big, and I think the reason why they do that is there's sort of a standard size of a lot of case manufacturers have sort of adopted.

We showed you on the Lux to case.

How does a Phil port on the top of a hill port on the bottom or dream port and these just fit right in that hole?

Because that's a pretty standard size.

Now that case manufacturers have sort of disagreed on.

That's the diameter that that it should be.

And so let's go ahead right now and show you how I'm going to get that that size or at least get the whole right because that's a pretty big drill bit, right?

I mean, that ain't gonna chuck up in your standard half inch drill, that's for sure.

So what I use are actually these right here.

These are just step bits.

I got two different kinds here, just different increments in terms of size.

So if we want to know how wide this actually is to know which bits are what step to stop back to get the tape on it to kind of market, so you know, you just use a caliper set.

In fact, I've got one right here.

All right, so these are And because you're dealing with threads, you don't measure this way, you measure this way.

All right, so it's about 20 millimeters.

If I want to know, that is a inches.

So 0.781 inches.

So just over 3/4 of an inch.

So what you're gonna do is you can see you've got different measurements on these.

They are marked on the inside of this one.

So we've got 3/4 of an inch right there.

So what I would do is I could put a piece of tape around that are quite a black Sharpie or something.

Just so I know how deep to stop.

But we're not ready to do that yet.

Obviously, the motherboard, everything's still in there.

That's got to come out because we can't exactly go drilling and putting metal shavings everywhere.

But first we have to measure.

So what I've done here is I've got a neural extension on each of these because I've got to clear this.

This is a very tall heat sink with active cooling in there.

So we gotta clear that.

And the reason why I'm not doing double Benzes.

Because remember, I showed you in our last video, we can get these tubes here with a single bending them already.

But I don't have a way of bending this again, nor what I bend it again because it's plated because it's played it.

If I bend it, the plating will crack so I can't bend these again.

What they do is they prevent.

Then they played and then the ship.

So that's how that works.

So what I'm gonna do now is I'm just gonna put some tape across their that way I can measure and mark where I want the holes to go.

And then I will show you how we actually do the whole marking.

So that way I do it once because, like I showed you since that caller, is it very thick.

We don't have a lot of room to play some of the some of the bulkhead fittings and you'll find them.

I guess I'd called two different things, Phil.

Port or bulkhead fitting.

The bulkhead fittings tend to have a little bit more of a caller on them.

So what that does.

It gives you a little bit of play inside of the hole, so if it's not quite left or right properly, you'll be ableto shift it and get it to line up.

Since I have very little overhang or caller on these particular fittings from its power, I am going to try and measure three times.

Andrew Ones E.

I know it's the same thing, is what I just did.

All right, so I've done my measurement as stupid as possible.

But close enough.

I think I still do have a couple of millimeters of movement in the fitting, just not a lot.

You know, it's funny if you like a skunk, works.

You look at the fittings down the bottom.

Maybe I'll try to find a picture of this put up here.

You'll notice there's rubber like rubber pads that they're on that are much bigger than the fitting.

I didn't line it up right, so I had to find a way to be able to have more movement without the edge of the whole showing.

So I was like, I'll just take this rubber thing and stick it on the fitting and put it down so it's fitting plus rubber pad plus than the actual floor.

So this right here is just, Ah, it's an all or hope punch and its use this in leather working or forgetting yourself.

A nice dip it so that you have a drill bit that won't walk, so we'll just push it.

It's spring loaded.

You do it a couple times if you want.

I now need to take the graphics cards and the motherboard out of there have a vacuum handy.

A vacuum would be better than just blowing the shavings everywhere, so we'll be using a vacuum with a brush.

Vacuum this out.

You don't want to just blow shavings all over the place, and then we'll be ready to drill a pilot hole and then drill it from the back side.

It'll be cleaner if we drill from the backside and then clean it on the front side by just doing one pass.

That way, we don't get all the shavings, also just kind of blowing through the front side, which is where a lot of the delicacy is in this building delicacy do.

Now let's take a small drill bit, and we're just gonna find where that dimple is where it kind of just rests in there like that.

We're gonna just slowly drill a hole through their way.

Don't want to do a high speed.

We don't want to, you know, have it punched through and bang against our board There.

Our guests are motherboard.

Trey, just go slow.

You put on speed one if you want.

I've also got this tape on here.

That way, if it does jump out for some reason, I'm not gonna go scratching the paint job that I did all the hell.

Although it still could do some damage, you won't be as much put on these.

Which are just These are just rotary adapters.

Mail the mail.

00 man, You want to talk about close?

So I was looking at that going.

Are those gonna be like I was like, Did I just grew up in front of two million people.

It would be the first time way problem here is the thickness of this metal makes it so that before you can get the cut all the way down to the 3/4 you start cutting on the next step.

That's why I'll get it to the right size and then go to the other side to clean it.

Jeez, that is a strong metal thing.

It was like drilling through the aluminum on the Yes.

And did you versus the guy See?

Says is just a friend.

J makes that joke alive.

Is there something behind?

Ah, Phil thinks that this looks like one of those great Andrey characters with the little lies in the big ball.

Yeah, let's just get the computer back getting along at last.

Theorize before we can get Thio our tube.

Obviously, we need to go ahead and put in our fittings here.

We're gonna leave on their semi loose.

So for this next part, we're gonna put the motherboard back in, and we're gonna be bending a single piece of P T.

G into a 90 Very similar to how our metal tube is because we cannot make easy adjustments to the middle to We can't just trim a little bit off like you can with Petey G.

We're gonna mock it up with the plastic.

Then we're gonna use the plastic is a template to make marks on our metal so that we make the cuts once on the metal after we've done with plastic.

And the reason why we're going to a bed in the plastic instead of just doing a 90 degree fitting?

Because although the end points would be the same as long as we take this and we use this medal as a jig for our nineties, we know that Radius is the same and this is identical piece to this.

Then we know that it's all gonna line up.

So I've made the two marks based on what I could visually see from here.

Fortunately, this case is open in the back.

If you take the fans like the fan cover back on old thing off.

And I've measured longer than I think I'm gonna need because like I said, well, that was cool.

Like I said, I can trim this down pretty easily, using my bit over here.

Promotional actually sells this.

Just call it a Bieber bit so you could get on premature website.

It's this particular one specifically for 13 millimeter on, and I don't know if they make one for 16 or 14 but this is 13.

And so now that that's cut, just t bird slightly.

Let's see how this fits, and I'm gonna make adjustments as we go.

The nice thing is, both of these are making the exact same run.

Just just do this twice.

So we're gonna do is I'm gonna get the depth, as you can see here properly toe where it lines up with that venom.

Worry about the height.

So I'm just gonna trim the depth of this toward that move centered and can once it's along the side, then I can slowly trim.

It applies to get it in that distance is longer than like that.

So you need to make very short adjustments on the bottom.

Otherwise, you're gonna end up having too short of a piece by the time you try and straighten it out.

If you were doing a PT de build, then you'd be done.

But now we've got to take these market on our metal tubes and cut the metal.

Oh, I wish I had a belt, sander because then I'd be able to make those micro adjustments on this.

Yeah, I need to be trained in the bottoms, lady, because this wheel can also just snap.

I'm like, don't push against it hard.

Just barely touch it, right?

Yeah, it's all right.

So there it is.

That's what two of them look like.

So I've got the riser.

Fortunately, the neural matched between the riser and the nineties for a little recap to these air optical tubes, these air alpha cool fittings for the actual tubes or the compressions.

And then these.

This is course there Hydro X for the nineties and then bits power for the extensions.

You can tell there's no particular brand loyalty in this particular build.

It's whatever works and matches, and fortunately, the chrome plating on all of these match.

The problem with some chrome plating is you can have a slight gold ish tent or kind of a black ish tent, depending on the plating process or the materials used or even the materials underneath the plating.

So, fortunately, it all matches, Um, no rolling on everything.

So I'm glad I didn't go like a diamond cut on the fittings and the murals on those.

It's just all know which I like the way the light hits the neural link.