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Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Welcome back to our little-- little project on our 2008 Yamaha R6 motor.
Listen, we've gotten the block back from Lanecorp, where they were kind enough to punch it out
to a 6-3-6 kit, which we're going to need because we're actually installing a piston
kit from Wiseco.
Beyond that, we've got a ported head that was done by Star Racing in Americus, Georgia.
And a whole bunch of other parts that we're going to need to replace every bearing, seal,
and stretch bolt in the whole engine.
So if you're ready, we'll get all of this put back together.
So let's get started.
Alright guys, our skill level only goes to three, but this one's going to be a three
point one.
Let's go ahead and go through some of the tools that we're going to need to do this.
On your socket side, you're going to make sure you have a range from eight going up
to nineteen, but the one in particular is this 36 millimeter.
Make sure you have one of those.
As far as your ratchet, just a standard 3/8ths, then a quarter inch.
You want to have a couple extensions as well and then you're also going to need just one
10mm box-end wrench.
A magnet, pick tool, a flat blade screwdriver, needlenose pliers.
As far as your Allen head side, you're going to need a 5, 6, an 8, and a 10.
Alright you will need one 30 what they call a Torx bit.
Other than that just a soft blow hammer, definitely going to need a piston ring compression tool,
a clutch holder tool, flywheel holder tool, and a decent torque wrench.
Alright, once you've got all that, you want to reference our drawings because this is
a lot to get put back together.
Now hopefully you've bagged and you've tagged and you've really organized things as you
were taking it apart.
If you didn't, if you look at our drawings it'll make more sense when we go to put it
back together.
As far as the parts you're going to need, well, find us at partzilla.com and get all
of those ordered and assembled and laid out in an organized fashion.
Once you've got all of that together, we can get started.
Alright, let's get started by reinstalling our head studs.
Just put a little bit of oil on each one of them before you put them in there.
Start them by just going in hand-tight to begin with, and then we'll use our extractor-slash-installer
tool to get them put back in to spec.
Remember you've got this oddball one that goes in that location.
You can see the threads at the top, so it'll be pretty obvious where it needs to go in.
Alright, let's snug them down a little bit.
And what we're going to do is torque them to around about eight.
That seats them in because there's a lot of actual what you want to call thread area that's
down in the block so it just needs to be seated in and that should be more than enough to
hold it in place.
And if you don't have a set of these, you definitely need to pick them up.
It makes life a lot easier as a stud extraction tool set, which also can be used to reinstall
Just bottom out and put a little bit of torque on them, then they'll be ready when we actually
do install the head.
Alright, when we sent this off to get it bored and plated, we actually had to remove every
single bearing.
So, we're going to start putting those back in.
I'm starting with the shift drum.
Doing it a little bit old school here.
Using a socket that just happens to be the same diameter as our bearing to get it knocked
back in there.
Alright, next let's go ahead and get in what they call the axle drive bearing.
Take a little bit of oil and put it around the case where it's going to go in.
When you're putting this one in you want the sealed side to go to the outside.
So you want to be looking at the bearing-- the balls when you put it in.
When you're hitting it it will make a different sound when it finally bottoms out.
It'll kind of be a higher pitched "ting," and that's the sound you're looking for.
Yeah, she's flush with the edge and that's where we want it.
Let's go ahead and get in the second shift shaft bearing.
Just make sure you get it to go in there even.
Alright guys, the next part is a little bit tedious. when we sent it off to get this thing
bored and plated, they also removed these little nozzles that actually spray up to the
piston walls.
So we need to get those replaced.
And each one of these nozzles has an O-ring that goes on it, and it goes into this smaller
Be careful not to rip this little O-ring, it's pretty fragile.
That's what you want, right there.
Alright, let's get a little bit of oil on each one of these passageways.
On the O-rings themselves.
Now let's go ahead and push them into place.
Just use a small punch tool.
Tap them in very gently.
Just make sure you've got them lined up perfect when you knock them in.
Alright, let's start putting our transmission together.
First and foremost, we need to go ahead and get this little oil pipe back in place.
There's one O-ring that goes on the end.
And then the other two go up here.
Alright, a little dab of oil just to help them get in there, and then she just slides
right back in here.
A little tab goes into that indention right here.
That's it.
Next let's go ahead and get the main axle assembly put back in.
We can go ahead and put in our screws once we put a little Loctite on them and draw that
bearing back down.
This is actually a Torx head screw that we're using.
It's a T30.
Kind of go from side to side so that we can bring her back down evenly.
We want to go ahead and re-stake the end of the bolts.
And fortunately I didn't put them in at exactly the same point so we've got a place where
we can re-stake it into these little indentions right here.
That combined with the red Loctite should hold it together.
Alright, the shift drum and the shift forks, they pretty much have to go in at the same
What you want to do is make sure the "C" is pointing out this direction.
Go ahead and start the shaft then we want to actually engage it into the gears and then
just kind of hold it up in place with a screwdriver.
You don't want to insert then end of this yet because we're going to have to put in
the shift drum and we want to engage it in that center area.
So, we've got that held up in place, and we'll go ahead and wiggle our shift drum in there.
Alright, now we can use a hook tool to hold up that shift fork and line it up to where
its shaft goes through.
There you go.
Next, go ahead and put in our other shift fork and it's going to have an "R" and an
"L" on it.
You want the "R" here and the "L"next to it and both of them facing this way.
There and there.
We're going to go ahead and put the shift rod all the way through it and then put on
these cover plates that actually hold these different bearings in place, as well as the
shift detent.
So, a little bit of Loctite on our bolts, and what we're putting in now is called the
shift drum retainers.
And you'll notice on each one it's got a little where it's actually out I mean it needs to
face outward towards you.
Alright, this first one actually has two purposes.
This edge holds this bearing in, and then this part holds this spring down.
Alright, the second one goes right here, and holds the outer edge or this bearing as well
as that other shift fork shaft.
Let's get our shift shaft back into place.
Before we do that we need to go ahead and put this post back.
Now, we can lower this in.
I never took any of this apart so it's going back in the same way it came out.
Now, we'll go ahead and put on that outer washer and circlip.
but the trick is you need to be really careful because we actually have the shift forks exposed,
so we just don't want to lay the block down on that.
We're going to give it a little bit of room on this piece of wood.
Now that'll go there and we can put in our circlip.
She's in.
Now, let's go back.
We've got a couple of oil baffle plates that need to go back in place.
Let's go ahead and do that spring first-- like that.
Now let's work on our oil baffle plates.
One is up here.
A little bit of Loctite.
That's a Torx bit, it's a 30.
Another plate goes right here.
Same thing with the Loctite on the other three Torx bolts.
Alright, with all that put back together it's getting about time to go ahead and get those
pistons put in with the connecting rods.
What I want to do is move this table out of the way, go ahead and mount this to our engine
stand, and then we will continue.
So let me get this reshuffled and we'll be right back.


Yamaha R6 Engine Rebuild Part 1: Bottom End to Piston Install | Partzilla.com

222 タグ追加 保存
Syuan 2018 年 8 月 28 日 に公開
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