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  • Hello and welcome to the EasyPCBuilder.com build video my name's Brett

  • and I'll be showing you through the build process today. Now, whether you're here to

  • expand on a hobby

  • learn something new, or save 30% to 50% off of retail by building it yourself

  • they're all great reasons, and I'll help show you through that today.

  • Now, why do you want to listen to me? I started building computers at a young age

  • as a hobby and it's now turned into my profession.

  • I've got a degree in Computer Engineering and 15 years experience in

  • the field

  • Now I certainly don't claim to know it all, but if you learn a thing or two then that's great.

  • So what are we building with today? We've got our power supply, our motherboard, our hard drive

  • our Solid State Drive, our RAM

  • a CPU, a high-performance graphics card, an aftermarket heatsink

  • a DVD burner and an anti-static wrist strap

  • Now, if you want a full description of all the parts that we suggest to use in a build like this

  • head over to the website at EasyPCBuilder.com

  • where you'll find the monthly updated Parts Guides, which outline the best components to buy

  • to get the best Value, Performance and Reliability

  • our of your Build. A large amount of consumer and engineering research goes

  • into these

  • and they're also available for other builds too,

  • such as Gaming PC's at various levels, Media PC's

  • & Home Office PC's also... And they're awesome!

  • Now I'm using an anti-static wristband as I build today. This really should be

  • a requirement as you build

  • If you don't use static protection you may not completely break anything

  • but you do run the chance of shortening the life of your components by them sustaining

  • partial damage from static events

  • for the small cost of an anti-static strap, I'd really recommend it.

  • Now to ensure that you're appropriately grounded to earth

  • you should do the following: unpack the case and the PSU before unboxing or

  • touching any of your other components,

  • install the power supply into the case, now you'll notice a fan on the bottom of

  • this particular model

  • which feeds air into the PSU. Where you have an intake and filter in the bottom of the case

  • install it this way, as it will help you draw cool air, in and through the case.

  • *excellent hand motions*

  • Now on the back of the case, you'll see four mounting points that you need to fasten.

  • Now ensure that the PSU power switch is in the OFF position

  • this will cut any potential power supply as the earth bypasses this switch

  • as it is direct wired.

  • These days with painted cases, your strap won't conduct to earth properly unless

  • you find an unpainted surface to attach to.

  • So I've attached the wrist strap to a non-painted

  • conductive area, by using a riser as a connection point

  • to ensure good continuity to ground. When the build is finished we simply remove this

  • and put the normal mount in

  • But as the thread in this riser interfaces directly to the earthed PSU casing

  • it is the best path available with a painted case like this.

  • Now doing all of this will ensure that I'm as close to relative ground as

  • possible

  • which is the best potential to be at when working with components.

  • Having yourself attached to a non-earthed case is still better than nothing

  • but as the case cannot completely dissipate your passed charge

  • you're likely floating at some voltage higher than 0V

  • and still have the potential to damage components (pun intended).

  • Also, We'd recommend doing the build on tiles or hardwood floors where you can

  • as it's hard to build up static. And don't pat your curious pets while you're building

  • and have a clean, non-conductive work area to work on.

  • Insert the power cord for the PSU

  • into an earthed wall socket which is turned OFF and then plug the other end

  • of the cable into TURNED OFF power supply.

  • So, for the mean time, we'll just leave the case and the power supply as they are

  • and now that I'm appropriately earthed and static free, we can get to installing some of

  • our other components.

  • Seriously, buy a wrist strap. They're $5.

  • So here on the motherboard

  • we've got our

  • CPU array, we have our four CPU *cooler* mounting points

  • we have our CPU fan header, our RAM slots

  • we have our PCI Express and PCI slots

  • we have our 24 pin power

  • primary connector, we have our 8 pin secondary CPU power connector

  • we have our USB 2.0 headers, our USB 3.0 headers

  • our case interface header for switches and LED's

  • we have our 6x motherboard mounting points

  • on this side of the motherboard

  • we've got our 6x SATA Data headers,

  • and on the opposite side here, we've got our audio, USB

  • display, HDMI, USB and ps/2 connectors for the back interface to the case.

  • So now lets install the CPU. Now you may have heard of

  • 'zero insertion force' with respect to CPU installation.

  • This refers to the placement of the CPU

  • not the actual holding plate which holds the CPU in place.

  • To remove this, you take the arm out,

  • up and back

  • which will expose the CPU array.

  • Now, on the CPU array, there are two notches here and here

  • these correspond to the CPU

  • here

  • and here. Now they're asymmetrical, so the CPU

  • will only mount in one way.

  • As you see, I'm holding the CPU by the sides, never from the face

  • or from the back of the pins. Never touch the CPU array either.

  • So to place the CPU, grab it

  • top and bottom

  • and place it down into the CPU array.

  • low height, NO WORRIES.

  • Now to fold the mounting place back over, we need to ensure that the arm is back

  • fold the plate over and down

  • under the the mounting point there

  • and now it's usually at this point here that you hear a few unwelcome creaks and sounds

  • I'll be quiet for a second so hopefully we can pick them up in the sound

  • eek..

  • Now in placing the arm back down you do have to exert some force

  • this is perfectly normal if the CPU is placed

  • in the correct orientation and seated flat. So it's the same

  • just as we uninstalled it, arm out

  • down and under and that's your CPU installed.

  • Remember to like, share and subscribe!!

  • So now we're going to install the RAM

  • Now we're jumping to this

  • now as we're doing an aftermarket CPU cooler install

  • and we need to make sure that everything fits first

  • so you may notice that we have four RAM slots here

  • now each *pair* of these represent a channel on this particular chipset of the

  • motherboard

  • and in order to run in 'dual channel' configuration

  • which means the memory data controller bus will be twice as wide

  • this also means you can get more data through and shorter time frame

  • this helps aid performance and is quite simple when you consider you just

  • have to buy and install the RAM in the correct configuration to take advantage

  • of it.

  • So to install the RAM, you fold these

  • slots back (note read the FAQ below regarding the slots chosen)

  • We have our RAM module here, now you'll notice that the notches on these are actually asymetrical

  • so if we attempted to install the RAM in this particular orientation

  • the notch on the slot and the notch on the RAM stick won't fit.

  • And if you flip it around, they line up

  • and we're fine. So to install the RAM

  • put it in like that

  • and then a vertical force downward

  • a minor bit of force, and It'll go down and clip in

  • that's one

  • and the secondary

  • and that's got your RAM installed

  • So now it's time to install our aftermarket

  • CPU cooler. You see here when I place the cooler

  • there aren't actually any mounting points currently on the motherboard which

  • support this cooler itself.

  • On the board here are the stock Intel mounting points for their OEM CPU cooler

  • What we have to do is install the additional manufacturer bracket to the board

  • which supports the additional mass of the heatsink that we're installing.

  • On the back we have the backing plate, on the front

  • we have some through hole parts here.

  • Now as this is specific to each manufacturer, I'm not going to show this process on the video

  • and I'll pre-install this and then we'll get to installing the heatsink itself

  • So now that we've got our aftermarket CPU

  • mounts installed and on the back here we've got backing plate

  • now should mention here that this backing here is actually

  • an insulator. It's meant to be on there so don't remove it.

  • They are also on the underside of the other four mounts on the motherboard

  • that you see here

  • So now it's time to figure out what orientation is best for our CPU cooler

  • the fan intake is through the front of the case, so we've got the bottom of our case here

  • and the back here and what we want is for the air to draw in

  • through the front, exhausting out the back

  • and top fans of our computer case

  • So you may have noticed that there is no thermal paste on the CPU or the aftermarket cooler that we're using today

  • to ensure the correct operation of the computer, we'll need to install this.

  • So you may have noticed that most aftermarket coolers do not come with thermal paste

  • supplied

  • You cannot miss this step. If you do you'll have problems with overheating, crashing

  • and inconsistent temperatures on the chip, shortening its life

  • the thermal paste only fills very small air gaps between the two surfaces

  • the paste is much better at heat transfer than air is

  • so what we're going to do here is install a half

  • pea size bit of thermal paste on the CPU

  • Please read the FAQ for any questions surrounding this. Link below

  • Now we're going to grab our CPU cooler

  • now it's very important to make sure that you only exert up and downward force on this

  • you never want to place it sideways or at an angle

  • when you're sure that you're getting your placement correct, you place it

  • straight down, on the CPU so the two plates come into contact with each other

  • at pretty much the same time.

  • And check your mounting points, and if you're happy with how it's all situated

  • you can start screwing these items down.

  • Please like, share and subscribe!

  • Now ensure that when you're fastening your heatsink down

  • that you go in a diagonal pattern and evenly spread the force of

  • the fasteners down while you're attaching the heatsink.

  • This is quite important to ensure that your thermal paste is distributed evenly

  • as you do it up

  • *turbo time*

  • So now that's all fastened down

  • it's time to move on to installing the

  • fan. So on the side of the fan here, you'll see that there's two arrows

  • one of them indicates the air flow through the fan, what we want to do here

  • is if this is the bottom and this is the back of the case, we want the air to flow

  • through the CPU cooler

  • an exhaust out the back and top. So the why we have this oriented

  • that the air will suck through the fan here

  • through the CPU and exhaust out the back and the top of the case.

  • Slot it on, ensure it's clipped in firmly

  • and you're in business. Now what we have here is a 4-pin CPU fan connector that we're going

  • to plug into the motherboard.

  • 4-pin allows for variable speed to be controlled from a closed loop system

  • which means that the fan speed can be controlled by your motherboard

  • which is determined by the temperature of your CPU.

  • The PDF Build Guides are very helpful. Buy one today!

  • Now it's time to install our motherboard into the case.

  • Now if we have a look at the back of the motherboard,

  • you'll see we've got a whole lot of through hole parts which are conductive

  • if these touch the back of the case, which is also conductive

  • your motherboard or other components won't enjoy it (they'll have a holiday, indefinitely.)

  • So what we need to do is provide an insulating air gap

  • in the form of a riser as seen here

  • Now, looking at the motherboard, we need to find our through hole mounting points

  • on this particular board we have six mounting points

  • which need to correspond to what you install inside the case

  • or what has already been pre-installed.

  • Now the method that I'm using for determining the distance from the mounting points is the very scientific

  • thumb method. This method works quite well for me

  • but for a more accurate way to identify the locations

  • We suggest putting a suitable size piece of paper under the board

  • and tracing the mounting holes through,

  • then mount the risers with respect to this. To check correct placement

  • when you've installed the risers, you can place the piece of paper on top

  • and push the risers through your paper to ensue that they are all placed

  • as you've traced them.

  • Check that the quantity and placement of your risers correspond to your motherboard

  • now there may be other riser positions under the board here

  • which correspond to different motherboard configurations. By ensuring

  • that you only have the correct number

  • in the correct place, the support should be adequate for your board install.

  • Watching this at a College or University? Email us and let us know where you're from!

  • Now after the motherboard mounts

  • are lightly tightened up

  • we need to ensure they're installed securely, the manufacturer has provided a

  • special tool to tighten their risers,

  • so we'll utilise this today to tighten these up to an adequate tightness

  • then, just to check all to ensure that they're seated well

  • and tightened correctly.

  • so now before we put the motherboard

  • down into the case, there's one thing which I've forgotten many times earlier,

  • which is the motherboard backing plate here, which installs

  • down here for the rear motherboard access points.

  • Now, if we see on the board, the plate can install in two orientations.

  • we need to check that it all corresponds by comparing

  • it to the board itself, so when we know we have the right configuration

  • just bring it down, ensuring that everything else is out of the way,

  • and then with a small force, click the backing plate into place in the case.

  • there are usually four clicks that you'll hear when installing this.

  • Now that the backing plate is installed, we can grab our motherboard,

  • usually try to support the board by both the heatsink and by hand

  • to install the board into the case the best method is to install it with the

  • rear of the board down first

  • making sure that the board lines up well with the rear mounting plate mount

  • and the motherboard mounts also. And then the motherboard is ready for install

  • So then we're on to mounting the motherboard.

  • There are specific screws to do this, so check your case manual, and then install the motherboard screws

  • in a diagonal fashion, loosely at first, until you have all in place,

  • to ensure you don't torque the motherboard if not initially mounted correctly.

  • Then, when you happy with their placement

  • completely do them up and you're in business.

  • So at the front of the motherboard, we've got the case interface header,

  • this header usually has installed the power and reset switch points,

  • and an interface to both the hard drive and power LED's.

  • Now as your LED's are diodes, they need to be installed in the correct polarity,

  • but your switches don't necessarily matter as the switch just shorts the two pins together.

  • So we'll plug in our Power LED one here,

  • which requires positive to positive

  • and negative to negative, check your motherboard manual

  • where the header is hard to read.

  • Then we have our power switch

  • our reset switch

  • and then our Hard Drive LED interface

  • keep note of the polarity of the LED's and check that they correspond to that of your motherboard header.

  • and as you see here, as a general rule of thumb,

  • all of your motherboard case header connectors plug in with the text facing outward,

  • but do check your motherboard manual to confirm.

  • Here are your SATA Data headers, for your interface to your hard drives,

  • solid state drives, DVD drives and other devices.

  • On this particular board, the cream ones our our 6Gb/s connectors,

  • and these are our 3Gb/s connectors.

  • The recommended configuration will be having the faster ports for our HDD's and SSD's

  • and the lesser bandwidth ports (3Gb/s) for our DVD drive.

  • So now we're going to install our Solid State Drive,

  • Hard Drive and DVD drive into the case.

  • Now, for airflow through the case, I'm going to remove this

  • upper drive bay as we're not going to be utilising it in this case,

  • we'll be using this bottom part here (to store our drives) So I'll just unbolt this here

  • and slot it out

  • This enables the airflow from the fan in the front to flow through unobstructed.

  • Time to install the Solid State Drive,

  • now this case that I'm using today comes with easy release drive bays

  • we need to install our drives in a particular facing direction though

  • so as you'll see the power and data connection points here

  • we're going to be installing it in this orientation

  • we can access the cables from the back of the case,

  • and it allows for a clean, unobstructed air path, with proper cable management

  • from the other side of the case. For this particular solid state drive

  • we have four holes in the bottom of the drive itself which we just need to screw in

  • through to mount.

  • Again, screw in diagonally,

  • and your Solid State Drive is installed.

  • Then the same for the Hard Drive,

  • now, we're mounting our hard drive using the bottom mounting points

  • However the hard drives also have side mounts, which is just as valid to install with.

  • Again, just checking that our data and power ports are in the correct

  • orientation for cable management, to slot in, and then install the screws

  • nice and firm, and slot it into the case.

  • Now it's time to install the DVD drive.

  • At the front of the case, you'll find some plates which are removable to enable installation of the drive

  • usually to remove them, you'll find these two tabs at the back of the plate

  • which you need to squeeze together to push the main cover forward,

  • and out of the case.

  • To install the DVD drive into the case, insert it from the front of the case

  • slotting it in until it's flush with the front of the case.

  • Then, on the side of the case

  • you'll see the through hole mounting points on the case

  • two on this side, which we'll install with the provided thumb screws.

  • As there are several mounting

  • points on the side of the case, ensure that the drive still remains flush as you install.

  • And then do the same, on the other side of the case.

  • This is your 24 pin power connector

  • and your primary power interface to your motherboard. It helps facilitate the

  • motherboard on board logic

  • powers the motherboard, and some of the devices which are connected to it.

  • This 6 pin plug here is your supplementary power connector for your Graphics Card

  • this is due to the motherboard not being able to supply the required power to the card itself

  • The 6-pin connector allows an additional 75W to be used by the card per connector installed

  • and as your usual (Graphics) card uses between 150 and 200 Watts

  • you'll likely need to install this for your GPU.

  • You can also see here that you can can change this cable on this particular power supply

  • to 8 pin configuration which allows a 150 watts per connector to be used.

  • Noting this though: The 8 pin PCI-E Supplimentary power connector

  • and the motherboard CPU power connector, as shown on the right,

  • are not the same power connectors, their power pinout is different, and even though they are

  • keyed differently, these should never be forced into their slots

  • due to having the same number of pins.

  • This is a legacy Molex power adapter

  • which is becoming somewhat obsolete in new builds. You may find older hard drives use these

  • or where you have an older power supply, you may be able to use these to

  • power your Graphics Card with additional adapters.

  • This is your SATA power connector, which connects to your Hard Drive,

  • Solid State Drive, and DVD Drive.

  • Note, that it's notched on the left hand side, and that it can only be installed in one orientation.

  • These are your SATA Power and Data connectors.

  • Power on the left, Data on the right.

  • They are both notched and will only install in one orientation.

  • The Data connector will plug in to your HDD, SSD and DVD Drive to facilitate the data transfer.

  • So what I've done here, is pre-routed the cabling for the case.

  • So we have the relevant cables left out for install, and the rest have been

  • routed through and concealed on the back of the case to facilitate better airflow.

  • I've pre-installed the motherboard to case interface headers

  • where their wires are ran concealed behind the back of the case.

  • We have our SATA Data connectors connected here,

  • so on the 6Gb SATA (which are the white ones)

  • we have installed our SSD and behind that our HDD

  • and on the 3Gb SATA ports we have our DVD drive.

  • What we've also ran through here, are our two

  • PCI-E power connectors, for our graphics card.

  • Our USB 3 Header here

  • And our 24 pin motherboard power connector.

  • Now what we'll do is install our 24-pin motherboard power connector

  • you'll see here there is retaining clip on the connector

  • which corresponds to the notch on the motherboard here, so all you have to do

  • is insert it vertically, with a minor bit of force until it clicks, and you're installed.

  • Now we have our USB 3 Header Connector.

  • which is also notched, to be connected.

  • We're leaving our two PCI-E power connectors

  • out here for the meantime, and now we move on to the CPU power connector on the motherboard.

  • The last one to install here on the motherboard, is the power connector for the CPU.

  • it consists of 8 pins and 4x 12V rails to adequately power the CPU's requirements.

  • it is notched with a retaining clip, the same as the 24pin motherboard connector, and installs in a similar manner.

  • Now on the back of the case, we have to install the power and data connectors for a hard drive

  • solid state drive and DVD drive.

  • Firstly, install the SATA power connector for the hard drive, ensuring it is in the correct orientation,

  • and then for the SSD.

  • Now to installing our SATA Data connectors. One for each

  • firstly for the hard drive and secondly for the solid state drive.

  • as these are our most consistently used data transfer devices

  • we want them plugged into the fastest interface ports on the motherboard

  • which were the 6Gb ports for this (SATA) standard that we're building with.

  • Now for the case fans. This particular case came with a fan controller

  • which allows us to voltage control the fans in the front,

  • top, and rear of the case. There is controllable switch on the top here

  • and what we have here is a Molex power connector

  • which is used as a primary feed to the fans. Connect this up

  • as an output from the fan controller, we have these three outputs

  • for each fan of the case. We'll now plug in the front,

  • top, and rear fans into the output of the fan controller.

  • As the fans supplied are only three pin fans

  • where your motherboard doesn't support the voltage control of the fans

  • they would run consistently, at full speed within your case

  • which would have them running faster than necessary, reducing their life

  • and creating unnecessary audible noise.

  • Tidy and secure the routed cabling at the back of your case,

  • and then install the opposite side panel back on to the case.

  • So now it's time to install the Graphics Card.

  • You'll see that we have three PCI-Express slots installed on this board

  • the topmost slot is predominantly the one that we wish to use.

  • Now you can use two in SLI configuration, but today as we only have one card

  • we'll be installing in the top my slot as we can be assured that it will have the

  • full 16x PCI-E data channels ran to it.

  • The Graphics Card that we're using today uses two

  • interface slots at the back of the case, one for the interface,

  • and one for secondary heatsink output.

  • So we'll need to remove these backing plates before installing the card into the case.

  • The slot on the motherboard has a notch which you'll need to either push down

  • or to the side before installing the card into the case.

  • You need to push this down prior to removing the card if you ever need to

  • uninstall it from the case.

  • So now we're going to bring the card in for installation.

  • remove any items protecting the interface pins, ensure the Graphics Card is installed

  • level and upright, and you'll feel it click into place,

  • and seat on the motherboard. Install your two screws, to retain the card.

  • Finally,

  • install your supplementary power connectors

  • into the card, to ensure it has output power to function reliably.

  • And there you have it!

  • As we're not installing any other components in this build,

  • we're finished inside the case, so we can remove our static protection

  • insert our final retaining screw for our Power Supply

  • and turn our Power Supply on, ready for our first boot.

  • So now it's time to power it up.

  • Fans are spinning

  • now we're just waiting for our BIOS screen

  • We've got POST

  • Now it should search for a boot drive

  • And that's exactly what we expected to see.

  • So if you want to know what the best parts are to build with

  • you can obtain the Parts Guides from EasyPCBuilder.com

  • These represent a significant amount Engineering and Consumer research

  • where we outline and explain, in technically understandable terms,

  • the best components to build with, and why, that enable you to get the best

  • value, performance and reliability out of your build.

  • So, if you want to get on board and complete your own build

  • learn heaps, and achieve something new? Jump over the web site at EasyPCBuilder.com and check them out.

  • Thanks for watching!

  • Watch now: How to install your Operating System with EasyPCBuilder!!

Hello and welcome to the EasyPCBuilder.com build video my name's Brett

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EasyPCbuilderを使って30分でパソコンを作る方法!- ゲーミングPC (How to build a computer in 30 minutes with EasyPCbuilder! - Gaming PC)

  • 125 7
    Jerry に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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