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  • When I mention Yanshui, most people would probably associate 說到鹽水大家一定會想到

  • it with the Yuejin Lantern Festival, 月津港賞花燈

  • or its exciting beehive bottle rockets! 和非常刺激的鹽水蜂炮

  • In fact, these have become must-do items 這是過年必備

  • during the Chinese New Year celebration. 的行程

  • But besides the Lantern Festival and beehive rockets 但是,除了花燈和蜂炮

  • Yanshui is a historic town filled with old stories 鹽水還有老城故事

  • and alleyway delicacies! 和巷弄美食

  • Let’s go discover the story of Yanshui together. 讓我們一起去聽聽鹽水的故事

  • The Brown Line buses can take you 搭乘棕線可以前往

  • to Xinying, Yanshui, Xuejia and Jiali. 新營 鹽水 學甲 佳里

  • Hey David here, 嘿,我是大衛。

  • and I’ve just arrived in Yanshui by bus, 我剛剛搭公車來到了鹽水,

  • which is very convenient. 真的很方便。

  • Yanshui is a lively little town, 鹽水是一個

  • and it’s got more than 300 years of history behind it. 有超過300年歷史的熱鬧的小市鎮。

  • It used to a very very busy seaport, 它曾經是一個很繁忙的港口,

  • and now it’s also a bustling tourist attraction. 那現在也是一個很活躍的觀光景點。

  • There’s lots to see and lots to play in Yanshui, 這裡很多值得一看與值得一玩的點,

  • plus the food is amazing. 這裡的美食更不用說了。

  • So, let’s go find out! 讓我們去體驗看看吧!

  • Conveniently, Yanshui is accessible by bus, 搭公車來鹽水,其實蠻方便的,

  • and most of its points of interest 點和點的距離

  • are close to each other. 不會差太遠

  • Everything is within walking distance! 走路就會到!

  • To get to know Yanshui a little bit better, 如果你想認識鹽水

  • try visiting Dazhong Temple first. 可以先到大眾廟,

  • Here, you can find information regarding 這裏有月津港

  • the eight main attraction of Yanshui. 八大景點的介紹

  • Dazhong Temple is located right on the shore 大眾廟旁就是

  • of the historic Yuejin Harbor, 古時候的月津港口

  • where sailboats from Xiamen and Fujian once moored. 帆船往來廈門福建等地

  • However, the shipping channels of yore 以前的月津港河道,

  • have since turned into ditches. 現在卻成了小溝渠

  • A stone stele with the inscription, 在這裏可以看到

  • “A Congregation of Fishermen’s Lights and Ripples” “聚波漁火”

  • can be found here. 的石碑

  • Beside the stele stands 旁邊有

  • theCongregating Ripples Pavilion”, 聚波亭,

  • which was once a rest stop for visiting merchants. 是早期提供給商人休憩的地方

  • From this, it is not hard to imagine 可以想像當時商船往來

  • just how busy the harbor used to be. 貿易頻繁的狀態

  • Fucheng, Lugang and Manka were the three 一府二鹿

  • largest historic sea ports in Taiwan, 三艋舺

  • and Yuejin Harbor was the fourth largest. 四月港(月津港)

  • Of the four most important historic sea ports in Taiwan, 臺灣早期重要的四個城市,

  • two were in Tainan. 其中兩個就是就在臺南

  • A little shrine built using mahjong pieces sits 大眾廟旁有間

  • beside Dazhong Temple. 用麻將蓋成

  • No larger than 40 square feet, 不到一坪的廟

  • this temple worships the Deity of Wealth. 這間麻將廟供奉的是武財神

  • Pilgrims come from all over just to touch the temple , 許多民眾會來這裡摸麻將廟

  • which is said to bring good fortune and wealth. 希望可以帶來好財運

  • This is one of the unique attractions here. 也是這裡的一大特色

  • Hey, can you guys guess what this place is? 嘿,你們大家知道這是甚麼地方嗎?

  • From past experiences of the show, 若看我以往的節目,

  • most of you guys may think it’s a temple of some sort. 大家可能會以以為是一座廟,

  • Taoist temple, or Buddhist temple. 道教或是佛教的廟宇。

  • But it’s in fact, a Catholic church! 但它其實是天主堂!

  • Without the sign on the door telling me otherwise, 如果門口沒有寫天主堂

  • I really thought I had just walked into a Taiwanese temple 我大概以為我走到廟裡了

  • The architectural style here, 這裏的建築元素

  • and even the mainTemple of Heavenbuilding, 就連禮拜堂-「祭天殿」的設計

  • look just like your local temple. 就像廟的設計一樣

  • Shhwe have to be extra quite in here. 噓…這裡面要特別的小聲。

  • This is the main hall of the Yanshui Catholic Church. 這裡是鹽水天主堂的主要大廳,

  • And as you guys can see, 大家應該都可以看到

  • there’s a painting ofThe Last Supperup on the wall. 牆上畫有一幅 有名的 “最後的晚餐” 壁畫,

  • But, it’s a little bit different, 但他有一點點不一樣,

  • it’s got a bit of an Eastern flair. 他好像有帶有一點東方色彩。

  • Instead of bread, they are actually 裡面的人物竟然沒吃麵包,

  • eating Chinese buns! 而是吃中式的包子!

  • Inside the cathedral, there is even an incense burner 禮拜堂裡面還有香爐

  • that is all but indistinguishable from 造型和廟的

  • those found inside a Taiwanese temple, 香爐一樣

  • except for the fact that it has the words, 只是上邊寫的

  • Catholic Churchinscribed on its side. 是天主堂

  • Here you can also see 這裏還可以看到耶穌誕生

  • a nativity scene, 在馬槽的造景

  • and if you look up, 抬頭看看牆面

  • you can see murals 一樣畫上壁畫

  • and chandeliers. 天花板也有掛燈

  • The Yanshui Catholic Church really is a mesmerizing 鹽水天主堂真的是一個迷人,

  • and awe-inspiring place. 且令人驚嘆的地方。

  • And it’s an example of a clash between 它是一個東西文化

  • Western and Eastern cultures and icons, 與符號衝擊之後的典範,

  • but in a very harmonious way as well. 但同時,這一切還是顯得非常和諧的。

  • For example, 例如,

  • up on the ceilings and the wall, there’s stories. 在天花板跟牆面上畫有很多故事。

  • And much like the murals in a Chinese temple, 就像很多廟宇裡的壁畫一樣,

  • it depicts the story of Jesus’s crucifixion. 這裡的壁畫敘述著耶穌受難的故事,

  • But in a very Chinese style, 而它的畫風跟裝飾符號

  • using a lot of Chinese icons and decors as well. 都是非常中式的。

  • Right outside of their main building 在天主堂的禮拜

  • where they hold their mass, 大廳外面

  • there is a little chapel as well, 有一座小小的禮拜堂,

  • with Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus inside. 裡面有聖母瑪利亞跟聖嬰。

  • So, in this little chapel, 這裡面你可以先點個蠟燭,

  • you can light a candle and make an offering, 並做個奉獻,

  • and pray to Virgin Mary and Jesus. 然後跟聖母與耶穌禱告。

  • The old buildings and alleyways 鹽水老屋巷弄

  • of Yanshui are very intriguing, 耐人尋味

  • and the historic Qiaonan Old Street is very well preserved. 橋南老街保存得相當完整

  • During the Chinese New Year season, 春節期間

  • The Old Street becomes incredibly lively. 老街也非常熱鬧

  • There is even the hundred-year old 這裏有一間百年的

  • Blacksmith Shop on the street. 打鐵店

  • Let’s go see what it’s all about. 我們去看一看

  • So, I’m just walking along the Qiaonan Old Street, 沿著橋南老街散步時,

  • and I happen to bump into an old blacksmith shop, 我發現了一家很有年代的打鐵舖。

  • and apparently, it’s a few centuries old. 它顯然已經有好幾個世紀的歷史了。

  • And rumor has it that there is a very old master inside, 聽說裡面有一位老師傅,

  • so let’s go pay him a visit! 讓我去拜訪他吧!

  • Right now, we are with the owner of 我們現在位於橋南老街的

  • a very ancient blacksmith shop along the Qiaonan Old Street. 古老打鐵舖裡面,這位就是老闆。

  • Hello boss! 老闆您好

  • Hi. 你好

  • So, this blacksmith shop looks like 這個打鐵舖看起來

  • it’s got a lot a lot of history, 好有歷史,

  • and looks very very ancient. 真的感覺非常古老。

  • So, how old is this blacksmith shop? 這個打鐵鋪到底有多老呢?

  • This shop has been around for more than 200 years. 我們這家店已經開兩百多年了

  • This shop has been passed down for six generations. 老店傳承至今已經第六代了

  • The current owner is the fifth-generation blacksmith. 老闆是第五代

  • Back in the days, in addition to blacksmithing, 早期除了打鐵之外

  • they also produced and supplied raw materials. 還有生產原料

  • Because of this, many blacksmiths in the area 所以當時許多打鐵店舖

  • actually had to come to the Old Street 都會來老街

  • just to stock up on supplies. 買原料

  • So, I know there are a lot of products 我知道打鐵舖

  • when it comes to blacksmithing. 能做出的東西有很多種,

  • Can you give me an example? 可以給我們一個例子嗎?

  • So how long would it take, 做一把刀,

  • for you to make a knife, such as a cleaver? 例如一把菜刀,要花多久時間?

  • Iron, 鐵塊

  • Take a very thick slab of iron. 很厚的鐵

  • You cut it up from the center and insert a piece of steel. 從中間剖開包鋼

  • Then you forge the three pieces together, 再將三片熔在一起

  • over and over again until it becomes flat. 再一直打 把它打薄

  • Once you have it in a crude knife shape, 打到有刀形

  • it still needs to be hammered, annealed and polished. 再不斷的煉磨敲打

  • until it becomes satisfactory. 一直到滿意為止

  • It’s a very repetitive process. 來來回回要好幾次

  • Even though the owner is getting on in years, 老闆雖然上了年紀

  • he’s still got it! 但是寶刀未老

  • His blacksmithing skills are second to none! 製刀功力還是一流的!

  • Yanshui has so much more than just egg noodles. 鹽水除了鹽水意麵

  • There are other fantastic food worth lining up for! 還有許多排隊美食

  • Let’s go have a taste! 跟我去吃吃看吧!

  • Hey, it’s snack time again! 嘿,點心時間到了!

  • And right now, we are in a very special snack shack in Yanshui. 現在我們位於鹽水一家很有特色的小吃攤裡面,

  • This is the owner of the snack shack 這位是小吃攤老闆。

  • Hi boss, 老闆您好

  • Hello. 你好

  • And hello to all the viewers 各位觀眾大家好

  • So, “Dou-qianliterally translates intobean strips”, 豆簽顧名思義就是長條狀的豆製品。

  • but what are bean strips? 但它到底是甚麼

  • Let’s ask the owner. 我們問問老闆。

  • Our bean strip chowder 我們豆簽羹呢

  • are made with black-eyed peas 就是米豆簽

  • that have been made into strips. 做成的

  • The strips are a combination of duck eggs and black-eyed peas 米豆簽是用米豆加上鴨蛋下去製作

  • Like regular noodles, 製作方式

  • the strips are extruded through a pasta maker. 是使用製麵機

  • So basically, besides the difference in ingredients. 看起來跟麵條很像

  • they look like your regular noodles, 但是製作原料不同

  • These bean strips used to be a popular staple food 早期農業時代

  • in an agrarian society. 米豆是主食

  • However, black-eyes peas are rarely cultivated nowadays, 近年來很少人種植米豆

  • and must be imported 所以米豆需要靠進口

  • in order to make bean strips. 才能製作米豆簽

  • So, as far as I know, these bean strips 我知道豆簽

  • are supposed to be made with soups. 通常是跟湯一起烹煮的,

  • But how are these soups made, 但這湯頭又是如何做成的呢?

  • and what ingredient goes into these soups? 需要放哪種食材?

  • Let’s ask the owner again. 我們在來問問老版。

  • First, we blanch the milkfish 我們先把虱目魚川燙

  • and use its broth as a soup base. 再用高湯下去熬煮

  • Then we add to it gourds, fried shallot, and fried garlic, 加上胡瓜 油蔥酥 蒜頭酥

  • and stir in some potato starch to thicken it. 再用馬鈴薯粉來勾芡

  • Lastly, just before being served, 上桌前

  • we throw in some fresh oysters. 再加上蚵

  • This is how you make a bowl of delicious bean strip chowder. 就是一碗美味的豆簽羹

  • It’s actually my first time trying bean strips, 這其實是我第一次吃豆簽,

  • and it’s surprisingly familiar. 不過有種熟悉感。

  • I think it reminds me of my grandma’s cooking. 吃起來其實有一點像我阿嬤的料理,

  • And that’s a compliment, actually. 當然囉,這是種稱讚。

  • And they may look like noodles, but they are really not. 它們看似麵條,但其實不是。

  • They are made with black-eyed peas, 他們是用俗稱為米豆的黑眼豆所製成。

  • not the band, but the plant! 我說的黑眼豆是植物喔,不是那個嘻哈團體!

  • And it’s more slippery, I guess, then regular noodles. 跟一般麵條比起來,它吃起來很滑嫩。

  • And when you mix it with our good friend, the milkfish 尤其當把我們的老朋友,虱目魚

  • and oysters, it really is a delicacy. 跟蚵仔加入後,真的是一道美食。

  • Oh yeah, hits the spot. I think I want more. 喔,真的是太好吃了,我還要吃!

  • Wow, look at the line up forshuijian bao”, 哇,排隊買水煎包

  • or pan-fried pork buns! 的人好多喔

  • Let’s line up as well. 我們也來排隊吧。

  • There is always a long line up in front of 這家水煎包

  • this stall selling pan-fried buns. 超多人排隊的!

  • Here, you can see the owner 在現場可以看到老闆

  • busy stuffing the buns, 一邊包水煎包

  • and frying them directly in front of you. 一邊煎

  • The buns are incredibly fresh, 非常新鮮

  • with a chewy outer skin 而且外皮非常Q彈

  • and generous fillings! 餡料又非常的多

  • This old stall is indeed very popular! 也是在地非常有名的老店喔!

  • It’s very chewy. Surprisingly so. 吃起來比想像的還有嚼勁,

  • And springy at the same time. 同時也非常有彈性。

  • The most important thing is, 最重要的是,

  • it’s not greasy at all, 我也很訝異它一點都不油膩。

  • which I find quite surprising, because a lot of snacks in Taiwan 很多在台灣得小吃都會有點油膩

  • tend to on the greasy side of things, but this is just perfect. 但這個恰到好處。

  • When visiting Yanshui, make you are wearing 來鹽水記得穿

  • your most comfortable walking shoes. 一雙好走路的鞋

  • Most of the attractions here are all within walking 因為點跟點的距離

  • distance of one another, 其實都很近

  • and each alleyway here deserves a good stroll. 而且每一條巷弄都非常好逛

  • Take your time, as you indulge 有美食 有歷史

  • in Yanshui’s rich history along with its stories and delicacies. 有故事可以欣賞

  • And of course, there is always a place here 累了也有地方

  • for you to put your feet up if you are tired. 可以休息

  • You know it really is a fantastic time to be in Yanshui right now. 現在真的是來鹽水最好的時節。

  • Right now, there’s the Yanshui Yuejin Lantern Festival happening, 現在鹽水有月津港燈節,而配合這個活動,

  • and to coincide with that event, 鹽水很多地方

  • theyve got street markets set up all over the place. 都有攤販與市集。

  • And if you are a coffee addict like me, 若你也跟我一樣不能沒有咖啡,

  • then you can’t skip out on this opportunity. 絕對不要錯過這個機會。

  • We are the Yongcheng Cinema, 我們在永成戲院,

  • which was renovated just a few years ago. 他前幾年才被重新翻修過。

  • Let’s go have a look. 我們去看看。

  • The historic Yongcheng Theater used to be a rice mill. 永成戲院的前身是碾米廠

  • One-third of the original structure had to be demolished 於第二次世界大戰的戰火中

  • to save it from a raging fire during WW2. 緊急拆除三分之一的倉庫後

  • Only the warehouses remain to this day. 才保住倉庫剩餘部分

  • The remaining warehouses were 後來將剩餘的

  • then converted into a movie theater. 兩間改成戲院

  • This wasn’t purely a movie theater either, 這家戲院不只是播電影

  • but also, accommodated theatrical productions. 也有戲劇的演出

  • The Yongcheng Theater has a collection of many 永成戲院保留許多

  • cinema-related artifacts 當時的戲院的物件

  • such as vintage projectors and amplifiers. 例如放映機 擴大機

  • Then, there are the 70-year-old cypress cinema benches 七十歲的檜木椅

  • and walls adorned with old photographs. 牆面還掛了幾張老照片

  • Right by the entrance is a large photograph 入口處有一張大圖

  • showing a graffiti-covered backstage gable wall. 「戲院後台山牆」

  • From these graffiti, 從牆面的塗鴉

  • one can glimpse into the lives of the troupe 可以看到早期戲班演出

  • that was once based here. 的歷史痕跡

  • This Japanese-made film projector is from 1945. 這台是1945年日製膠捲電影放映機

  • Once the limelight was lit, 這台放映機的燈箱點燃後

  • it was able to producing 1400 lumens. 有1400度左右

  • Through a system of reflective lenses, the light 透過光和反光鏡

  • was then projected out onto a screen, forming an image. 將影像傳送出去

  • When playing a movie, 影片播映時

  • the light passes thorough the reel, 經過膠卷

  • and lens, 經過鏡頭

  • then onto the screen. 投影到螢幕

  • This type of projector was 這種放映機

  • able to output at 16 frames per second. 一秒鐘跑16個畫面

  • Persistence of vision then filled 這是視覺

  • in the remaining dark frames. 暫留

  • The frame rate of film is slightly different 電影和電視

  • from the refresh rate of your TV. 的格率不同

  • If you were to make a movie with a camera designed 如果用電視的攝影機

  • for shooting TV shows, 拍攝電影的畫面

  • the picture would stutter 會出現閃爍的畫面

  • due to incompatible video frame rate. 因為格率不同

  • The guide at the theater 現場的解說員

  • happens to the son of the theater owner, 正好是永成戲院老闆的兒子

  • and he is very familiar with every aspect 早期戲院的所有工作

  • of early theater operations, 都非常熟悉

  • After Mr. Huang’s thorough description, 聽了黃老闆的解說才發現

  • I’ve realized just how complicated 原來放映電影

  • this whole theater business used to be. 不是一件容易的事

  • A lot of know-hows are involved in controlling the light, 如何控制光

  • and juggling between the different film formats. 怎麼調整不同規格的影像

  • This this all easy stuff in this digital age of course, 在數位時代來說這非常容易

  • but when it was 70 years ago, 但是七十年前就可以處理這個問題

  • it really wasn’t a task for the faint-of-heart. 就非常的不簡單

  • These old wooden benches, they may not look like much, 這些木製老椅子看起來不太起眼,

  • but they are actually very comfy, 但其實還滿舒服的。

  • and it’s actually surprisingly ergonomic. 令人訝異的是,它們也很符合人體工學。

  • And one really cool thing about these benches is the fact 這些椅子有個很酷的特色,

  • that there’s actually a height difference, 就是前排跟後排的椅子高度不一樣,

  • like in modern cinema chairs. 這跟現代戲院裡的設計是一樣的。

  • So, the front rows would be shorter than the ones in the back. 所以前排的椅子會比後面的矮一點。

  • And just the fact that these benches 當然,這些椅子光憑

  • are more than 70 years old is amazing. 它們70歲的年紀就夠厲害了。

  • For any of you film buffs out there, 如果對於早期電影放映機有興趣的朋友

  • The Yongcheng Theater is a blockbuster not to be missed. 一定要來永成戲院

  • All that walking around sure makes me thirsty. 逛了一圈有點點渴

  • There is a famous shop here that specializes 這裏還有非常有名

  • in fruit juices and icy treats! 的冰果室

  • Let’s go quench our thirst! 可以喝些果汁解解渴

  • Can you guys guess what this is? 大家知道這是甚麼嗎?

  • Give you guys a hint. 給你們一點提示。

  • Nope, this is only half the equation. 不是喔,這只是答案的一半。

  • In fact, this is watermelon and lemon juice, 其實這是西瓜汁加檸檬汁。

  • together. That’s right! 沒錯! 是加在一起的。

  • And I know there are a lot of watermelon juice around the city, 我知道我們常常會看到西瓜汁,

  • and those are great too. 它們當然也很好喝,

  • But a lot of times they are too sweet for my liking. 但是往往對我來說都太甜。

  • But when you add lemon to the equation, 不過加入了檸檬汁後,

  • it’s perfect actually. 就變得完美了。

  • It’s sour but not too sour. Sweet but not too sweet. 有點酸又不太酸,有點甜又不太甜。

  • It’s just right. 剛剛好。

  • Now, I wonder how the owner 我很好奇當時老闆怎麼會把

  • came up with this recipe? 這兩種東西放在一起呢?

  • Well, I thought since watermelons 因為我當時想說

  • are very thirst-quenching fruits, 西瓜止渴

  • and lemons are full of vitamins, 那檸檬有綜合維他命

  • then why not mix them together? 我想說把它結合看看

  • Yanshui has lots of different attractions 鹽水有很多不同的景點與小吃,

  • and lots of different snacks, but I refuse to leave Yanshui 但在我還沒喝到這個之前

  • without a cup of these. 我是不會離開鹽水的。

  • Isn’t it pretty? That’s the famous Octagonal Mansion, 很美吧? 這是鹽水有名的

  • or the Octagonal House of Yanshui, 八角樓,

  • and it was built in 1847. 它在1847年時完工。

  • Back then, it was used as an office 當時,它是一位

  • by a very well-off sugar merchant. 富有糖商的辦公室。

  • How’s that for an office? 這辦公室不錯吧?

  • Well, as it turns out, the Octagonal Building 原來這間八角樓

  • belongs to the owner of 是冰果室老闆

  • the juice and shaved ice shop as well! 阿香姊的老家

  • Welcome to the Octagonal Building 歡迎來到八角樓

  • The building was built by 八角樓是我的老祖先葉瑞西

  • one of my ancestors, Yeh, Rui-Xi. 所建造的

  • I happen to be his fifth-generation descendant. 我是第五代

  • The Octagonal Building was largely built 八角樓是採用

  • using mortise and tenon joints. 榫接方式建構

  • Simply sliding out a tenon allows the removal 只要把榫頭拿掉

  • of entire doors and windows. 就可以把整面的門窗全部拆除

  • Latticework adorns the upper window panels, 窗戶上半部設計成

  • allowing light to pass through. 透光的木格紋

  • The panels are not carved directly from wood, 不是整片裝上去的

  • but composed of intricate wood joints, 而是一塊一塊

  • fitted together by hand. 拼上去的

  • From the outside, it’s difficult to see the inside of the building. 從外面看不到裡面

  • But everything outside is visible from the inside. 但是從裡面向外看非常清楚

  • This window here is 180 years old. 你看這個180年的窗戶

  • It still works perfectly well to this day. 到現在還非常好開關

  • There is a tenon here. 這裏有個榫頭

  • Just lock it in place. 只要扣上就可以

  • You know, this very intricate shutter, 這個很巧妙的百葉窗,

  • it’s actually got a very ingenious system. 它裡面其實有一個很聰明的裝置。

  • Check this out. You do that, it opens up, 你們看,你用這樣,它就打開了,

  • and when you close it, it shuts down. 把它關起來,就封閉起來了。

  • And to top it off, this is 180 years old. 最厲害的是,這窗戶有180歲了。

  • Looking at the design of the Octagonal Building, 看到八角樓的建築設計

  • It’s difficult to imagine that 實在很難想像

  • it was constructed more than a century ago. 這是一百多年前蓋的房子

  • The structure,lighting 無論是結構 採光

  • and safety of the building are very well thought out. 安全性都顧慮的非常周全

  • Come to Yanshui for its old streets 來鹽水逛老街

  • and heritage buildings. 看老建築

  • Treat yourself to some mouth-watering delicacies, 吃美食

  • and listen to the many stories of Yanshui. 還可以聽聽鹽水的故事

When I mention Yanshui, most people would probably associate 說到鹽水大家一定會想到

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2017年「ハタイナン」第1話「昔話と路地裏の珍味CC字幕版」 │ 「ホット台南」EP1. (2017《哈 臺南》第一集:老城故事,巷弄美食 CC字幕版 │《Hot Tainan》EP1. Old Town Stories and Alleyway Delicacies)

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    Hot Tainan 哈臺南 に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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