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  • JOHN MARTIN: Hi, my name's John Martin.

  • I'm the publisher of Vice Magazine.

  • We had heard about this guy named Heimo Korth.

  • He lives in an area called the Alaska National Wildlife

  • Refuge, ANWR for short.

  • Heimo's one of the most impressive

  • people I've ever met.

  • He is almost totally self-sufficient, and he's one

  • of those guys that could survive no matter what.

  • Now here it is.

  • Vice presents Heimo's Arctic Refuge.

  • [MUSIC PLAYS ON RADIO]

  • VOICE ON RADIO: Four.

  • Visibility one, zero.

  • Patchy fog.

  • Few clouds.

  • at 5,000.

  • 6,000, scattered.

  • Temperature minus 2.

  • Dew point minus 2.

  • Anaktuvuk.

  • Pass, wind zero, one, zero.

  • At five, visibility one and one-quarter.

  • Ceiling 400 overcast.

  • Temperature zero.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Me and Edna are the last ones left to actually

  • live out here.

  • The rest live in Fairbanks, and they just commute from

  • Fairbanks out here, spend a month or two, and

  • then they go back.

  • And this is the only National Wildlife Refuge that has polar

  • bears and moose and caribou.

  • It's got a lot of media attention because they want to

  • drill for oil here.

  • The vast majority of America's against it.

  • Eventually, they just want to get people

  • out of the land here.

  • That's why this permit for us to be here is only good up

  • until the death of our last child.

  • And then after that, that's it.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Hey, it's Thomas.

  • We are in the Brooks Mountains.

  • It's in Alaska, a few hundred miles north of Fairbanks and

  • basically the rest of civilization.

  • We're going to the cabin of Heimo Korth and his wife Edna.

  • He's been a trapper up here for 30 years,

  • carved out his own life.

  • Lives completely by his wits with a little assistance from

  • the occasional bush plane.

  • Heimo Korth moved to Alaska when he was 19 to get as far

  • away as possible from human civilization.

  • He met his wife Edna while living in an Eskimo whaling

  • village on St. Lawrence Island in the Bering Sea.

  • Eventually he convinced her to move with him to the harsh

  • Alaskan interior, more than 150 miles above the Arctic

  • Circle and even farther from the nearest roads,

  • supermarket, or schools.

  • Two of last people allowed to live in an area the size of

  • South Carolina.

  • Their nearest neighbor is about 100 miles away, and the

  • only chance of emergency medical care is by calling the

  • Army for a helicopter ride.

  • They've managed to raise a family out here while dealing

  • with the fearsome climate, isolation, predators, and the

  • drowning death of their firstborn daughter.

  • The Korths migrate annually between three separate cabins.

  • Rotating cabins keeps them from depleting the resources

  • in any one spot and ensures that there should always be

  • enough fur and meat available for them to make

  • it through a winter.

  • We're going to spend a week with them and see what it's

  • like to live on America's last frontier.

  • KEN MICHAELS: Just look for a straight gravel bar,

  • straight's the key thing.

  • Hopefully into the wind.

  • Oh, there's his cabin.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, yeah.

  • KEN MICHAELS: Oh, there's his tent.

  • Landing should be still all right at this time.

  • HEIMO KORTH: My name's Heimo Korth and this is where we

  • live in the northeastern part of Alaska.

  • It's beautiful.

  • Three degrees this morning.

  • EDNA KORTH: My name is Edna Korth and I'm glad

  • you guys are here.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Already breaking in the gear.

  • This is our lifeline.

  • It's about to head back to Fairbanks.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Me, and there are six others in the refuge that

  • were here prior to it being a refuge.

  • It's very commonly known as ANWR, you know, it's like

  • abbreviated for Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.

  • So once it became a refuge, I guess we were

  • grandfathered in.

  • [DOG BARKING]

  • THOMAS MORTON: God, bear alarm.

  • Oh, look at all that meat.

  • HEIMO KORTH: People come out and they want to do this, and

  • they don't realize how it is.

  • They think, oh, I can do it.

  • I can do it.

  • And then they come out, and pretty soon they realize,

  • damn, it ain't like this.

  • And they build a nice place and they spend two or three

  • years, just to tough it out, just to prove to themselves.

  • I mean, for someone to trap this far out like this?

  • It took me years and years and years to get

  • what we have here.

  • Now we come over here.

  • The reason we set up this tent is because if the cabin ever

  • burns down, the tent is here.

  • It has a wood stove, it has wood in there, it has cots in

  • there, it has extra clothes, extra sleeping bag--

  • that would actually save your life.

  • It's very important.

  • To be out this far without something extra to get into,

  • you're running a high risk.

  • Put the branches in like that.

  • Here's the stock market, which really affects you out here.

  • OK. do you think you can get it going?

  • THOMAS MORTON: I think so.

  • HEIMO KORTH: OK.

  • You'll learn really quick.

  • OK, close it up.

  • Our youngest daughter and her husband were sleeping in here

  • when they came up here last month.

  • Our other daughter, her child, we had the grandkid up here.

  • THOMAS MORTON: That's great.

  • EDNA KORTH: When we built the house when the girls were

  • small, we put moss and logs.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Is there anything else between them?

  • EDNA KORTH: No.

  • Just moss.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Just moss and log?

  • Wow.

  • EDNA KORTH: Rhonda, she's 24 and she's working at the

  • emergency room.

  • Krin, she's married and she's 20.

  • And she works at Sportsman's Warehouse.

  • She wants to go back to college.

  • A week before you guys were here, they were

  • both here for 10 days.

  • It was nice to have them out here, but kind of crowded.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • HEIMO KORTH: These are some of the caribou that we shoot.

  • These are the heads from the caribou.

  • And we eat the heads.

  • When we're going to eat them, we just saw off the horns and

  • skin the head, and then we take the eyeballs out and then

  • we roast the rest of it.

  • We eat the tongue, the cheeks, the lip, brain, everything.

  • THOMAS MORTON: It's good eating.

  • HEIMO KORTH: It is.

  • It's very good eating.

  • THOMAS MORTON: What's in the bag?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, a bear skin.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh.

  • HEIMO KORTH: A bear skin.

  • This bear came into the yard to get the meat.

  • THOMAS MORTON: How long ago?

  • HEIMO KORTH: A week ago.

  • A week ago.

  • I was just--

  • I just walked over here, and all of a sudden, I look up and

  • there's a bear standing in front of me.

  • Edna, I need my shotgun.

  • And so with this much meat around, he'll just keep coming

  • back, coming back.

  • It's not good.

  • So you gotta do something about it.

  • This is caribou meat, the hind leg.

  • A good healthy sign that--

  • if you kill an animal and it's fat, the animal's healthy.

  • If it's skin and bones, there's

  • something wrong with it.

  • And this here's part of a moose neck here.

  • Here's a side of ribs.

  • THOMAS MORTON: God, it's huge.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah.

  • THOMAS MORTON: These fish are all king salmon.

  • And these are the ones in the summertime I catch, and then

  • we save these and use these for trapping bait.

  • These are used primarily for martin, mink, lynx, wolf,

  • wolverine, fox, weasel.

  • [DOG BARKS]

  • HEIMO KORTH: Kenai, huh?

  • She's half husky and half Akita.

  • To alert us when there's bear and stuff.

  • So the dog stays outside, because I don't believe in a

  • dog coming in the house.

  • I'm really against that.

  • These drums are used for storing food.

  • Craisins, pancake mix.

  • And this way, a bear can't get into it.

  • We have an extra satellite phone, and it goes in there.

  • And that is in case the cabin burns down.

  • THOMAS MORTON: How long have you had this cabin?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, we built this one in 1984.

  • And this pole here, this is a tree that

  • was here and it died.

  • But I attached the satellite phone antenna to it.

  • And then this other antenna, right straight up, that's for

  • the aircraft radio so I can talk to airplanes.

  • THOMAS MORTON: And the salad dressing and the guns?

  • HEIMO KORTH: You know, the shotgun in

  • case there's a bear.

  • There's a rifle here for the caribou, and

  • this .22 for grouse.

  • And the salad dressing and all, keep it cool out there.

  • Damn, let me get my coat.

  • I'm freezing.

  • You guys ain't cold?

  • THOMAS MORTON: I'm getting there.

  • HEIMO KORTH: I'm getting there now.

  • I gotta get my coat.

  • Hello, Edna.

  • Oh, this is the antenna for the radio, right here.

  • In the middle of winter, jeez, we pick up Europe easy.

  • London comes in real easy.

  • Tokyo, all that.

  • [MIMICS ASIAN LANGUAGE]

  • You know, China somewhere, I don't know.

  • They all come in.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Are these all your traps?

  • HEIMO KORTH: All?

  • There's maybe 1/100th of them right here.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Where are the rest?

  • HEIMO KORTH: All over.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, oh, they're already out and set.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah, a lot of them.

  • This is for marten and mink and muskrat.

  • And this is a beaver snare here.

  • We put this under the ice for beaver.

  • And then here's more snares right here.

  • THOMAS MORTON: John and John, they're getting a shotgun.

  • But I'm gonna say, if the dogs go nuts, more likely or not

  • it's a moose or a caribou, but it could be a bear.

  • How you guys doing?

  • JOHN MCSHANE: Doing all right.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Basically, they're like our bear alarm.

  • [SAWING]

  • THOMAS MORTON: I'm still wondering, when did you decide

  • to go to Alaska?

  • HEIMO KORTH: I was just looking through those Outdoor

  • Life magazines.

  • You know what them are?

  • Them hunting magazines?

  • This is 1974, though, mind you.

  • You know what I mean?

  • You know, I'll write to hunting guides and see if they

  • could use somebody.

  • And he wrote back, and he said, yeah, he uses

  • packers to pack meat.

  • I was young, 19 then, and I said, yeah, I'll go for it.

  • So I did.

  • THOMAS MORTON: How did you get interested

  • in the Arctic, though?

  • Do you remember?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, just wanted to go someplace where there

  • wasn't any people.

  • And so the Arctic is one of the few places

  • that there's no people.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Where did you pick up all

  • your trapping knowledge?

  • Did you have to learn that when you got to

  • Alaska, or did you--

  • HEIMO KORTH: Down in Wisconsin, when I grew up.

  • A lot of it was trial and error.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Up here?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, yeah.

  • Big time.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah?

  • I just think it's weird, that you like--

  • you're so social.

  • HEIMO KORTH: That why would I live out here?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah, I really expected you to be-- through

  • your teeth, you were gonna say, you

  • know, one-word answers.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, yeah, get out of here.

  • Don't ask stupid questions.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Doing it wrong.

  • HEIMO KORTH: You know, just 'cause you live out here

  • doesn't mean you have to be like that.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • HEIMO KORTH: The stomach needs food and

  • the mind needs people.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • HEIMO KORTH: I mean, people need other people.

  • You just can't say, I'm going to be alone, you know?

  • That's not normal.

  • THOMAS MORTON: In your first couple years, weren't you

  • going it alone, though?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, I was alone.

  • I was only here from August until the first of March.

  • First of August to the first of March.

  • THOMAS MORTON: That's still a very long time.

  • HEIMO KORTH: I know it is.

  • Oh, yeah.

  • Tell me about it.

  • When you're alone, that's a real long time.

  • I would never do that again.

  • There's no way.

  • I mean, that's not normal.

  • You know, I'm glad I got kids and daughters.

  • And you know, just have family.

  • That's important.

  • It's very important.

  • Let's say if something happened to Edna, that I was a

  • widower, I--

  • I--

  • no.

  • I wouldn't do it alone.

  • This one's done.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • All right, thank you.

  • HEIMO KORTH: What?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Was it my feet?

  • EDNA KORTH: No, it's his.

  • HEIMO KORTH: What happened?

  • I didn't step on the carpet.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Well, of course it's black.

  • I'm stepping in the mud right now.

  • No matter what, it's my fault.

  • So I'll just leave it at that.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Do you ever think about how long you can--

  • HEIMO KORTH: Live out here?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah, you can keep this lifestyle?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Well, I hope to die out here.

  • How does that sound?

  • I just do it not because I want to be a survivalist.

  • It's just because it's a way of life.

  • Ooh.

  • Aah.

  • Burned my lip.

  • THOMAS MORTON: There you go.

  • MALE SPEAKER: You ready?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Shall we?

  • THOMAS MORTON (WHISPERING): It's gone now.

  • HEIMO KORTH (WHISPERING): Yeah, it's gone now.

  • But I'm just listening for something

  • swimming across the water.

  • That's-- you see across the river, right

  • where my light is shining?

  • I shot--

  • I shot the caribou over there.

  • And the good pile is over there, you see?

  • And when I came out here just now, I looked over there and I

  • saw a pair of eyes looking at us.

  • I don't know what it was.

  • Right there it is.

  • See it over there?

  • See it?

  • See the eyes over there?

  • OK, nobody talk.

  • Let's all go over there and get water.

  • And if that starts swimming across the river, then--

  • tell me.

  • THOMAS MORTON (WHISPERING): OK.

  • HEIMO KORTH (WHISPERING): Kinda eerie feeling, ain't it?

  • You know, you look over there and see two white

  • eyes looking at us.

  • THOMAS MORTON: We had a good summer camp vibe going by the

  • end of night one, but the monster eyes across the river

  • served as a good reminder that we had a lot more to fear out

  • here than constricted bowels and shitty cocoa.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Who saw the eyes, besides me?

  • THOMAS MORTON: I think I saw them.

  • I saw something.

  • MALE SPEAKER: John?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Here's the gun.

  • You might as well take it, anyways.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Being told to sleep with a loaded shotgun

  • also didn't help.

  • It's another day in the Arctic.

  • We got about two inches of snow last night.

  • This morning I woke up to a gunshot.

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • THOMAS MORTON: That was evidently

  • Heimo popping a squirrel.

  • I just want to check on the temperature before we go in.

  • It's 20 degrees.

  • I think it's good to point out how far down these

  • thermometers go, and that is to negative 80.

  • But that shit hopefully happens months

  • from now, not tomorrow.

  • EDNA KORTH: There's a chair over there.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oatmeal?

  • How's oatmeal today?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oatmeal's great.

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • HEIMO KORTH: There you go.

  • The .22 for grouse and that.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • HEIMO KORTH: You know, so we can have--

  • THOMAS MORTON: Shoot some dinner.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah, there you go.

  • There you go.

  • Right on.

  • EDNA KORTH: We do this every year.

  • This time of the year, we go fishing, Arctic grayling, so

  • we could eat them at the wintertime.

  • I went fishing a lot with my dad.

  • I'd hunt and trap with him because I was the oldest.

  • JOHN MARTIN: Where did you grow up?

  • EDNA KORTH: Savoonga, St. Lawrence Island.

  • THOMAS MORTON: I mean, you're following the same route you

  • normally take?

  • HEIMO KORTH: After living out here for 35 years, you just--

  • you just know.

  • It's just in you.

  • A person just has a sense in him.

  • You just know where you're going.

  • Look at this.

  • See these big slivers like that, and this, and that?

  • This was cut down with a stone ax, prior to the white man

  • coming here.

  • Because there's still stuff out here like that.

  • THOMAS MORTON: When'd you first come to the bush?

  • EDNA KORTH: In 1982 we got to the lower cabin.

  • Heimo has a little tiny cabin that you could

  • walk around like this.

  • I thought to myself, what am I getting into?

  • And then, two days later, I told him, we gotta do

  • something about the roof because I'm walking around.

  • You hold the line, flip it back, and then as you cast,

  • you leave go of the line.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, did I--

  • shoot.

  • EDNA KORTH: What?

  • THOMAS MORTON: I think I put it in the tree.

  • [SIGH]

  • Yeah.

  • I've been having a real hard time.

  • And then you got to remember it's this again, and again,

  • and again, and again, times 50 to 100.

  • Which is huge.

  • It's mind-boggling.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Little smaller than an Arctic grayling.

  • Ooh, jeez.

  • There you go.

  • Let me get a stick and--

  • Look how pretty they are.

  • See the spots on them like that?

  • Yellow underneath there like that?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • Fuck, yeah.

  • There we go.

  • Yeah.

  • EDNA KORTH: All right, you caught one.

  • Yay.

  • HEIMO KORTH: That's a nice one.

  • That's a good-sized one, yeah.

  • Shake it hard.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, and it just comes right out.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah.

  • THOMAS MORTON: OK.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Just hold him like-- no, you're going to

  • hold him, in case you miss.

  • I don't want get my fingers smushed.

  • Don't hit your fingers, but hit him hard.

  • Hard.

  • Hard, hard, hard.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, I feel bad.

  • I feel like I've-- wait, that did it, right?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah.

  • THOMAS MORTON: OK.

  • HEIMO KORTH: There, see, we've got a stringer of fish.

  • Supper tonight.

  • Fry him up with rice and salad?

  • How does that sound?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Sounds very good right now.

  • EDNA KORTH: Well, dig in, you boys.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Good fish?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, it's great.

  • Hats off.

  • HEIMO KORTH: We're going to go hunt caribou.

  • We're gonna go climb up to a ridge and we're going to look

  • for caribou.

  • And hopefully there'll be caribou.

  • And if there are, then we're shoot a young bull

  • or else a lone cow.

  • Then we'll have some fresh meat.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, OK.

  • We're gonna-- this is where we're gonna hunt from?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah, this is a little rock

  • outcropping right here.

  • We've got a good view.

  • You see all the trails down there?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • HEIMO KORTH: You just keep an eye on the trail, see if

  • anything follows them.

  • If they do, then we go after them, and that's it.

  • Then we'll be at it.

  • This is the my theory about mankind.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Mmhm.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Mankind was much better off a nomadic hunter.

  • Once he starts farming,

  • civilization, it didn't improve.

  • It went downhill from there.

  • I mean, when you look at human beings, how long they've been

  • on Earth, there were far more hunters and gatherers than

  • what they were farmers.

  • We're out to set some snowshoe hare snares.

  • Tomorrow we're going to check them and hopefully

  • we'll have a meal.

  • They used the Earth's resources too much.

  • It drained--

  • I mean, crime increased, diseases increased.

  • Life was too easy.

  • THOMAS MORTON: This is the snare.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah.

  • I kind of blame, like, Europe.

  • I mean, because everybody in Europe was a nomadic hunter.

  • Except I blame the Romans for coming there and trying to

  • make people into farmers, just like them.

  • There's his tracks underneath the snare.

  • You want the snare right there.

  • Like in France, the Gauls, they did that.

  • And then in Britain, to him, they conquered them.

  • And they were all just little tribes living off the land,

  • like hunting.

  • Food was semi-reliable, so then you bred

  • more, had more children.

  • So then the more children, the more mouths to feed.

  • People lived closer together, so in turn, disease came.

  • See, I'd like it if you guys catch some, too.

  • Because then when we eat it, you'll feel better.

  • It's a good feeling.

  • It's better than going to the store and buying some.

  • That doesn't give you the same feeling, you know, if you go

  • out and hunt it or something.

  • And now, and now what happened to the Roman civilization?

  • THOMAS MORTON: They all got lead poisoning.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah, that's right, they did.

  • I mean, there is only X amount of resources on this Earth,

  • and we're using them up at an unbelievable rate.

  • THOMAS MORTON: What about drilling?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, I'm not--

  • THOMAS MORTON: You aren't really for that, right?

  • HEIMO KORTH: No, not really.

  • No, I'm not for that.

  • THOMAS MORTON: If there was as much oil in there as there is

  • in Saudi Arabia, would you, would you

  • think it was OK for--?

  • HEIMO KORTH: If, yeah, but it isn't like that.

  • So it's not even close to that.

  • It ain't there.

  • It just ain't there.

  • So I mean, what are we gonna do in another 5,000 years, if

  • we're here?

  • How much oil is there, if they're going to be using oil?

  • And then how many more people can this Earth feed?

  • That's another issue.

  • State opened the beaver season early now, because there's so

  • many beaver and hardly anybody's trapping them.

  • So we're going to go trap us some beaver.

  • I mean, things got really, really bad in the world over.

  • Not just in one country, but the world over.

  • It's the suburbanites and the urbanites

  • that's going to suffer.

  • The rural people, they're going to have the food.

  • And they're going to know how to get the food.

  • Not just planting, but hunting.

  • THOMAS MORTON: What's that tree for?

  • Whoa.

  • 747.

  • HEIMO KORTH: It has to be.

  • JOHN MARTIN: Do you like seeing the planes?

  • HEIMO KORTH: In some way, yeah.

  • Because it's--

  • even though we got radio, it's still, it's like, there are

  • people out there.

  • You know what I mean?

  • THOMAS MORTON: It's nice to have a little contact.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah.

  • Like when 9/11 was there, you know, remember they stopped

  • all air traffic for a while?

  • And there was no jets.

  • Zero.

  • Nothing.

  • Almost felt kind of lonely, you know?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Did you hear about 9/11 on the radio?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Well, I heard on the radio.

  • I was like, what?

  • So you know, but I never have seen actual footage of the jet

  • hitting the towers.

  • THOMAS MORTON: No?

  • HEIMO KORTH: I've never seen that in my life.

  • Never.

  • Because we were out here, there's no TV.

  • OK, first one.

  • Now watch.

  • You see the bottom there and everything?

  • Just set this down like this, and push it into the mud good.

  • OK, that's the first one.

  • Now we put one more with a bunch of sticks like this.

  • That's it.

  • It's just so vast, huh?

  • It just goes forever and ever and ever.

  • No roads, no trails, no people, nothing.

  • THOMAS MORTON: I don't know whether that's comforting or

  • terrifying.

  • HEIMO KORTH: It's comforting to me, but it

  • depends the way you're--

  • everybody feels different about that, you know?

  • I feel safe that way.

  • I feel safe.

  • Have you checked [INAUDIBLE] mountain?

  • Goroy Mountain?

  • Let me have the binoculars.

  • Let me look over there on them mountains.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Heimo just saw a bunch of caribou coming down

  • off the ridge, so we're going to go up on the tundra and try

  • to head them off.

  • This is the Korths' last chance to get some meat.

  • They're well stocked.

  • They could survive without it, but you know, it would be nice

  • for them before the herd heads off, if they

  • could take one more.

  • HEIMO KORTH (WHISPERING): If something scared them, yeah.

  • If they ran into a wolf or bear.

  • Shit.

  • Yeah, oh, yeah.

  • Oh yes.

  • Damn.

  • Well, when they came out, they cut that way.

  • That's--

  • no caribou today yet.

  • Maybe on the way home.

  • Who knows?

  • We'll find out.

  • Just keep trudging along.

  • Something killed a calf caribou here.

  • Either wolf-- wolverine-- or bear.

  • One of the two.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, yeah, look at all that fur.

  • HEIMO KORTH: The bones, see the pelvis bone, the back one?

  • THOMAS MORTON: How long ago, do you think?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, I don't know.

  • That was probably when we--

  • when all them caribou came through

  • in the end of September.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Ooh.

  • Grisly.

  • [DOG BARKING]

  • HEIMO KORTH: Let me get the saw.

  • See all the eggs in there?

  • Full of eggs.

  • [GENERATOR MOTOR]

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, that's out here, east somewhere.

  • I'm into movies somewhat, you know?

  • I like the sci-fi movies, you know, like aliens

  • and stuff like that.

  • I like stuff like that.

  • Transporter, Born in East LA, Addams Family.

  • Munich takes a long time.

  • That's like almost a three-hour movie.

  • JOHN MARTIN: Predator or whatever.

  • THOMAS MORTON: That night after looking through family

  • photos on Edna's gas-powered laptop--

  • HEIMO KORTH: We'll watch this one.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Heimo treated us to a special

  • screening of Predator.

  • The irony of watching Major Alan "Dutch" Schaefer try to

  • trap and kill Predator in the company of a fur trapper did

  • not escape us.

  • Nor did Heimo waste any opportunity to point out when

  • and how Schwarzenegger's various Predator traps were

  • total bullshit.

  • At this point, it was very easy to forget that we were on

  • the furthest brink of human civilization and not just

  • sprawled out on a friend's couch, basking in the glow of

  • a TBS staple.

  • Apparently there were bear tracks near where the outhouse

  • is. (SOFTLY) What the fuck are they doing?

  • The next morning, our feelings of suburban safety and

  • contentment were vanquished for good by the discovery of

  • bear tracks near the cabin.

  • JOHN MARTIN: Here they come again.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Good morning.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Good morning?

  • HEIMO KORTH: We'll show you.

  • JOHN MARTIN: See, you went to find the tracks?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah.

  • We'll--

  • we'll have to show you.

  • We gotta get rid of him.

  • Because otherwise he's going to wreck your tents and

  • everything.

  • HEIMO KORTH (WHISPERING): He came to right there.

  • That's the track, yeah.

  • Those paws are enormous.

  • THOMAS MORTON: This is the time of year that bears are

  • putting on their last few pounds before going into

  • hibernation.

  • And Heimo guaranteed us that our nocturnal visitor would

  • not only be returning soon but would continue to do so until

  • either it was dead or we were.

  • HEIMO KORTH: See where he scraped the ground to cover

  • the carcass?

  • THOMAS MORTON (WHISPERING): Where's the carcass?

  • HEIMO KORTH (WHISPERING): Under all that.

  • He covers it.

  • THOMAS MORTON (WHISPERING): He's probably nearby?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Mmhm.

  • And guaranteed to attack us.

  • If he comes behind us, I want you to duck

  • down like that, so--

  • 'cause I'm going to shoot over you.

  • [WHISTLE]

  • Hey, bear.

  • Hey.

  • JOHN MARTIN: Hey.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Pretty spooky back there, huh?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • Just with the carcass, and--

  • so is he eating the other bear carcass?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, yeah.

  • They do that all the time.

  • One bear'll eat another bear carcass.

  • THOMAS MORTON: No manners amongst bears.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Well, remember he raked it all in and covered

  • the carcass like that?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, you got to see the carcass.

  • All our farcical bear alarm jokes from earlier in the week

  • were revisited, but this time in deadly earnest.

  • If we so much as needed to shit, we had to take a shotgun

  • with us and establish that we were in clear shouting

  • distance of someone else.

  • JOHN MCSHANE: Apparently there were bear tracks near where

  • the outhouse is.

  • I've been told to carry this with me.

  • EDNA KORTH: Don't shoot this way.

  • JOHN MCSHANE: Right.

  • EDNA KORTH: If you see him on that side,

  • shoot at him that way.

  • JOHN MCSHANE: Right.

  • And a killing shot is where?

  • Like head or the heart?

  • EDNA KORTH: In the chest.

  • JOHN MCSHANE: Chest?

  • EDNA KORTH: Yeah.

  • JOHN MARTIN: Good luck.

  • JOHN MCSHANE: Thanks.

  • THOMAS MORTON: So we're eating moose tacos tonight?

  • EDNA KORTH: Yeah.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Taco night.

  • EDNA KORTH: Heimo's favorite.

  • Usually I'll just have two taco shells tonight, and

  • there's 10 or 12 in a box.

  • He'll eat the rest.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Do your daughters eat a lot?

  • EDNA KORTH: Yeah.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Were you worried when they were little

  • about bringing them up out here?

  • EDNA KORTH: Oh, no.

  • THOMAS MORTON: No?

  • EDNA KORTH: Uh-uh.

  • I taught them from since they were five.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Heimo told me they went to boarding school

  • for a couple years.

  • EDNA KORTH: Yeah.

  • Both of the girls did, because I think it's

  • time for them to move.

  • I didn't want--

  • I told him I didn't want to teach them anymore because I

  • don't want to do high school again.

  • There.

  • We just opened it.

  • It's too hot.

  • HEIMO KORTH: It's too cold.

  • The first taco I ever had, it's like, I fell

  • in love with it.

  • Man, what have I been missing all these years?

  • Oh, it was good.

  • Ooh, I loved it.

  • Any kind of Mexican food, I had to come to

  • Alaska to have it first.

  • Alaska.

  • This year's exceptionally weird.

  • It really is.

  • This is the third time a neighbor come in.

  • THOMAS MORTON: I think that is.

  • There more of them?

  • HEIMO KORTH: I think so.

  • I think so.

  • Until everything's resolved, we're going to

  • have to stick close.

  • THOMAS MORTON: What'll it sound like?

  • HEIMO KORTH: The dog'll tell us in a heartbeat.

  • Me and Edna, and you and you, we're gonna have to boogie out

  • real quick and take care of it.

  • EDNA KORTH: I'll be the last person.

  • HEIMO KORTH: You're gonna be right with us.

  • 'Cause you and me'll be in the lead.

  • Especially you.

  • You'll be--

  • THOMAS MORTON: Heimo just heard the dog bark.

  • [DOG BARKING]

  • THOMAS MORTON: We may, we may have gotten our visitor.

  • [DOG BARKING]

  • HEIMO KORTH: Come on, come on.

  • This is serious.

  • He's there.

  • EDNA KORTH: Somebody else--

  • HEIMO KORTH: No, I need you, Mom.

  • Let's go.

  • Come on, let's go.

  • Mommy, gun's right here.

  • Extra shells.

  • Hey, John, in that box up there, wooden box.

  • Reach for some--

  • pack of shotgun shells.

  • There are five in there.

  • OK?

  • When we walk up there, quiet.

  • Nobody talk.

  • We just have the light.

  • EDNA KORTH: Ain't for me, Mr. Korth.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Don't get upset.

  • THOMAS MORTON: It just got dark.

  • (WHISPERING) There is a bear.

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • THOMAS MORTON (WHISPERING): Oh my god.

  • This is--

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • THOMAS MORTON (WHISPERING): The bear's making some

  • terrible fucking noise--

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • THOMAS MORTON (WHISPERING): Ohh, it sounds

  • like the bear's moving.

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • [GUNSHOT]

  • THOMAS MORTON (WHISPERING): How the

  • fuck is it still alive?

  • JOHN MCSHANE (WHISPERING): I don't know.

  • HEIMO KORTH: It's dead.

  • EDNA KORTH: He's dead.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Hey, you guys--

  • THOMAS MORTON: He's dead?

  • Can we come?

  • JOHN MCSHANE: We're good?

  • THOMAS MORTON: We can shit in peace.

  • The uh, the bear is dead.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Imagine if you got attacked by that.

  • JOHN MARTIN: Fuck.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Was he on all fours, or was he up high?

  • HEIMO KORTH: He was all fours.

  • THOMAS MORTON: OK.

  • HEIMO KORTH: All fours, and then--

  • THOMAS MORTON: That makes it harder to shoot

  • him, doesn't it?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Once he was hit, he was rolling around all over

  • just like a ball, and that was even worse.

  • THOMAS MORTON: That's terrifying.

  • HEIMO KORTH: To try to shoot him.

  • THOMAS MORTON (SHIVERING) Ayyyy, hey, hey.

  • HEIMO KORTH: That could take a chunk

  • out of you in a heartbeat.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yes.

  • HEIMO KORTH: It was so dark that we kept shooting and

  • shooting and shooting.

  • And I know I missed a bunch because I couldn't see the

  • bear in the sights of my gun.

  • The dog knew there was something amiss, and then I

  • could hear the bear back in there.

  • And that's when I ran in the house and

  • got Edna and everybody.

  • Come on, we gotta go.

  • I couldn't see the bear in the sights of my gun.

  • And as you saw, it was a big bear.

  • It was a really big bear.

  • And he's gone, and--

  • HEIMO KORTH: And we protected our--

  • I mean, us.

  • And property.

  • Otherwise he might have killed the dog.

  • So we lost a dog already.

  • A bear came in the yard and ate the dog alive, you know?

  • And that was pretty sad.

  • That's, you know, that's life in the Arctic.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah, Yeah.

  • HEIMO KORTH: It's just the way it goes.

  • THOMAS MORTON: You guys'll be sleeping good tonight.

  • HEIMO KORTH (YAWNING): Well, everybody.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • Morning.

  • I am really a little bit uncertain which one.

  • I've got--

  • I've got no clue what day of the week it is,

  • either, I just realized.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Don't fall on 'em.

  • Lot of air bubbles, huh?

  • THOMAS MORTON: How are we looking?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Situation looks quite bleak.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Maybe in the morning.

  • We'll just come here in the morning and see what's there.

  • Just have to do that.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Gotta go deal with that bear right now.

  • It's just, like, lying there in the middle of the trail.

  • We're gonna have to skin it, de-skull it, and do something

  • with the meat that doesn't involve leaving it for another

  • bear to come and try to eat.

  • There's the bear.

  • Still dead?

  • HEIMO KORTH (WHISPERING): Oh, yeah.

  • I wouldn't want to fool with a bear like this.

  • Because you'd be in deep doo-doo.

  • Stinks.

  • Whew.

  • His belly was full.

  • So he stinks pretty bad.

  • One, two, three.

  • [WHOOSH OF AIR]

  • Whew.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, ohh.

  • Ho, ho.

  • He-- ho, ho. (GAGGING) Ho, oh, oh, huh, ho.

  • Oh, no.

  • Oh, god.

  • Oh, that's-- oh.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Terrible, huh?

  • You get a good whiff of that, huh?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, I got plenty.

  • He basically just deflated.

  • And that air.

  • Oh my god.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Pretty rank, huh?

  • THOMAS MORTON: That was-- that was some, that

  • was some rank air.

  • That was--

  • HEIMO KORTH: OK.

  • THOMAS MORTON: That was worse than anything I'm going to do

  • on this trip.

  • Is this gonna happen again, now?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah, he's kind of, kind of

  • rigor mortis in here.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Ohh.

  • Ohh.

  • HEIMO KORTH: You smell?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • Oh, oh.

  • HEIMO KORTH: I could use somebody else to help, too.

  • You guys spread the arms, OK?

  • Watch your fingers.

  • I learned this from a hunting guy that I worked for.

  • He taught me how to skin bears.

  • Without him, I wouldn't be up here.

  • He's the one that offered me the job, so I moved up here.

  • OK.

  • Now.

  • Bend down hard, hard.

  • Real hard.

  • [SNAPPING BONE]

  • HEIMO KORTH: There you go, that's what we needed.

  • Now, put on a pair of rubber gloves because you're going to

  • grab the meat now.

  • I mean, this is more than one slug.

  • And right here, look at that.

  • You see what I'm saying?

  • Like I feel like a lot of people would see this and just

  • automatically be like, this guy must hate animals.

  • HEIMO KORTH: No, I don't hate animals.

  • Not in the least.

  • Because I want to see them here all the time.

  • I do.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Well, you live among them.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Everybody, Everybody's ancestors were

  • hunters and trappers.

  • Everybody.

  • Hold that leg, grab this one.

  • You and me--

  • you and me, Thomas, pull this one.

  • You gotta lift it up.

  • It's gonna be hard.

  • One, two, three.

  • There we go, there we go, there we go.

  • Just like this.

  • OK.

  • Tell you what.

  • To keep that clean, fold that there like that.

  • That's good.

  • There we go.

  • Put your fingers in the nose and--

  • no, really.

  • Can you do it?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • Oh, that feels kind of odd.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Now, OK.

  • Now.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, there's the ears.

  • There's the eye holes.

  • HEIMO KORTH: There you go.

  • THOMAS MORTON: There's our bear.

  • HEIMO KORTH: I gotta cut that skull off.

  • The skull has to be brought to the Alaska

  • Department of Fish and Game.

  • I mushed up the skull bad.

  • Ooh.

  • THOMAS MORTON: These are all shots that are gonna give me

  • nightmares.

  • HEIMO KORTH: It's not so bloody this way,

  • you know what I mean?

  • OK, push it down like this.

  • OK.

  • There.

  • One, two, three.

  • Once we get on the snow, it'll be easier.

  • THOMAS MORTON: It is easier.

  • JOHN MCSHANE: Funeral procession for a bear.

  • HEIMO KORTH: To there.

  • That's good.

  • OK.

  • Well, let's go check snares.

  • THOMAS MORTON: When do you start getting really busy with

  • the trapping?

  • Like when does that kick in?

  • HEIMO KORTH: November.

  • THOMAS MORTON: November?

  • And how long does it last?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Until March, I'll be really busy,

  • trapping every day.

  • Nothing?

  • First one empty.

  • See it?

  • Right down here.

  • See the snare you set there?

  • David's is empty.

  • Ooh.

  • Too much fox and wolverine hanging around.

  • THOMAS MORTON: So that's why we don't have--

  • HEIMO KORTH: That's why the bunnies-- you know, they

  • either killed 'em, or else the bunnies took off to Timbuktu.

  • Because they ain't gonna stand around with all these

  • wolverines and foxes around.

  • Who set this one?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Um, maybe me?

  • HEIMO KORTH: You got a bunny.

  • There's part of supper.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Look at that.

  • These things are really big.

  • Wow.

  • I snared my first bunny.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Oh, I'm sorry it was a struggle, but I'm

  • happy we have food.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Christ, see, this guy, he caught a fish, and he

  • got a bunny.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Heimo got a bunny, but it's alive.

  • How are--

  • how are you going to dispatch this bunny?

  • Is that the--

  • is that the final--?

  • I got to admit, that was a little bit rough.

  • HEIMO KORTH: What's up?

  • What was?

  • THOMAS MORTON: You know, it's kind of like, buying it at the

  • supermarket, was the first time that we just-- we found

  • it and it was, the deed had already been done.

  • HEIMO KORTH: And this time I had to do it?

  • THOMAS MORTON: And this time, you had to do it, yeah.

  • So you have to--

  • I'd have to get used to that.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Well, I grew up like that.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Does it ever--

  • does it ever affect you?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Bother me?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • You ever feel bad for--

  • you ever feel bad for the bunny?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Well, it didn't suffer.

  • I mean--

  • THOMAS MORTON: No more than it would in the wild.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, god, no.

  • THOMAS MORTON: I mean, I order rabbit on menus.

  • Just because I don't see it happening doesn't mean it's

  • not happening.

  • And it's probably happening a lot worse than what you did.

  • HEIMO KORTH: You're darn right, it is.

  • Hey, I'll show you once.

  • And then the next one, you do, OK?

  • THOMAS MORTON: I do myself, OK.

  • HEIMO KORTH: OK.

  • Wet your hands a little bit.

  • Right where this joint is, there, just--

  • just in that joint area, pull it like this

  • and the skin'll pop.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Wow.

  • No knife cuts.

  • HEIMO KORTH: No knife cuts.

  • Stick your finger right here, go right to the butthole area,

  • and come up and around.

  • You grab the whole tail part and everything, the poop chute

  • and all that, pull it like this.

  • THOMAS MORTON: You know, there wasn't a time when, like, all

  • us animals hung out together.

  • We treat them--

  • HEIMO KORTH: All animals are not people.

  • That's a Disney world.

  • I mean, people that say, my cat, or else my dog, that's my

  • kid, that's my child-- that's a bunch of baloney.

  • It's not even close.

  • There.

  • OK, just cut up, now.

  • Cut up.

  • Up.

  • They can have their dogs and pets, you

  • know what I'm saying?

  • I mean, that's not going to come close to

  • another human being.

  • You can't rate an animal with a human.

  • That's not right.

  • There.

  • Skinned and gutted your first bunny.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • HEIMO KORTH: You guys ready?

  • Ready?

  • Of we go into the wild blue yonder.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Can you tell me where we're

  • walking to right now?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, we're going to go up in the ridge, by our

  • daughter's cross up there.

  • The daughter we lost out here, we put

  • flowers there every year.

  • So that's what we're going up there for now.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Heimo and Edna's daughters, Krin and

  • Rhonda, are grown and live in Fairbanks now.

  • Heimo and Edna, however, had another daughter named Coleen

  • before either of them was born.

  • When Coleen was two, she and her parents were crossing the

  • Coleen river in a canoe when it tipped over and she was

  • swept away by the current.

  • EDNA KORTH: We were floating down to the lower cabin.

  • We had that sweeper on the bank.

  • It tip us over.

  • She drowned and floated.

  • We couldn't reach her in time.

  • The only thing we found from her was her little boot.

  • We call it Goroy Mountain.

  • We named it after our daughter.

  • We used to call her, in Eskimo, little pigs that eat a

  • lot, we say, goroys.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Did you try to have this hill renamed?

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah.

  • You gotta go through a couple committees.

  • The state said that she didn't do anything significant.

  • THOMAS MORTON: That's awful.

  • HEIMO KORTH: They said.

  • EDNA KORTH: She would have been 27, 28 years this year.

  • HEIMO KORTH: [ESKIMO]

  • That's the Eskimo word for "come." [ESKIMO]

  • HEIMO KORTH: Say it, Mom.

  • EDNA KORTH: [ESKIMO]

  • THOMAS MORTON: Sounds a lot nicer when she says it.

  • EDNA KORTH: I told you, you make things yours.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, come on.

  • Well, this is something we were going to do whether you

  • guys were here or not.

  • We had to do it before the snow got too deep.

  • And it's a beautiful day for it.

  • HEIMO KORTH: I don't know how to use one of these things.

  • EDNA KORTH: Just press.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Oh, there.

  • HEIMO KORTH: You want this?

  • Yeah.

  • You want this?

  • There, there you go.

  • She's a real picky eater in the beginning, but once she

  • starts, she won't stop.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Does it bum you out that there aren't a new

  • generation of Heimos and Ednas to come out here?

  • That once you guys are gone, there probably won't be--

  • in ANWR, there won't be another--

  • another set of people.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Another final frontiersman?

  • THOMAS MORTON: Yeah.

  • HEIMO KORTH: I mean, the youth nowadays, very few are

  • interested in the outdoors.

  • And a lot of them don't know survival skills, which is sad.

  • Because they could run into a situation where they need that

  • to save their life, you know?

  • Because you never know what's going to happen in life.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Last day of camp.

  • We got little gifts from Edna.

  • She made us--

  • mine is a fox skin chain toggle, which I'm pretty

  • excited about.

  • Gonna miss this old cabin.

  • All right, this is it.

  • Supposed to be snow coming in tonight, and the seasons are

  • about to change in a really major way.

  • It's going to get a lot colder than it's been

  • when we've been here.

  • And hunting season's going to give way to trapping season.

  • Folks like Heimo and Edna, and the bush pilots out here,

  • they're some of the last people from whom you can learn

  • this dying skill set.

  • They ain't supermen.

  • They're ordinary people who learned how to do it and then

  • went out and did it.

  • I'm now capable of feasting off rabbit that I have caught.

  • These are all, you know--

  • these are all skills we can rediscover.

  • HEIMO KORTH: All right, guys.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Bye.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Take care.

  • THOMAS MORTON: Have a good winter.

  • HEIMO KORTH: Yeah, you too.

  • THOMAS MORTON: We will.

  • HEIMO KORTH: All right, bye.

  • Me and Edna, we got our-- when we go, you know, I told her if

  • I go first, where to put me.

  • I mean, if they find me out here.

  • That's the thing.

  • If they find me.

  • And then my ashes are going to be way up in there.

  • That's where I wanted them.

  • And then Edna said she wants to be here, you know.

JOHN MARTIN: Hi, my name's John Martin.

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B1 中級

アラスカで一人で生き抜く (Surviving Alone in Alaska)

  • 138 17
    ykk に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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