This time, we're venturing east of Europe

and, with the help of a lot of hot air,

we're experiencing the breathtaking best

of Central Turkey.

Thanks for joining us.

A great way to pump up your European vacation thrills

is to travel east to Turkey.

For 20 years, I've been taking tour groups here

because I think it's important for Americans to get to know

a moderate and secular Islamic society, and because it's fun.

In this episode, we'll marvel at the dramatic landscape

from high above...

and from deep below.

We'll drop in on a circumcision party

and explore troglodyte ghost towns.

Shop for sheep at the market

and chat with an imam.

We'll check in with today's urban scene in the capital city

and finish by paying our respects

to the father of modern Turkey,

Ataturk.

In the Eastern Mediterranean,

Turkey, the size of Texas,

links Europe with the Middle East and Asia.

We'll explore the region of Cappadocia

and side trip to Guzelyurt

before traveling to the capital,

Ankara.

Turkey has 75 million people.

While the vast majority are practicing Muslims,

its citizens have a constitution

that requires the separation of mosque and state.

In this episode, we'll experience both the modern

and the traditional here in Central Turkey.

We start in Cappadocia.

While a fascinating parade of cultures

has shaped the history of this ancient land,

it's the striking geology that first grabs your attention.

Cappadocia is famous for its exotic-looking terrain,

especially these rock formations

called fairy chimneys.

Centuries of volcanic eruptions left huge boulders

atop layers of hardened volcanic ash.

As the softer rock eroded,

the harder rocks were left precariously balanced

atop the pinnacles

that have become the icons of Cappadocia.

A wonderful way to appreciate this bizarre landscape

is from above.

That's why, for me,

the most exciting balloon ride anywhere in or near Europe

is here in Cappadocia.

You get up before sunrise

and gather on a desolate field

that's become a hive of activity.

Nearly every morning, the scene's the same,

as noisy burners are fired up

and balloons filled.

Climbing into the basket, you meet your captain.

- Good morning, everybody! - Morning.

- Hi, Mustafa. - My name is Mustafa.

Your pilot was sick, so I will fly you today.

This will be my first day in aviation.

- I'm really excited. - [Laughter]

With the sound of a fire-breathing dragon,

you skim the grass and slowly lift off.

While scary for some, the feeling I get

is one of graceful stability, with majestic views.

Soon, scores of tourist-filled balloons

share the sky in silent wonder.

The terrain below is a forest of pinnacles,

honeycombed with ancient dwellings,

which we'll visit later.

Pilots skillfully maximize

the drama of this unforgettable landscape.

Back on the ground, the terrain invites exploration.

People have carved communities

into these formations for thousands of years.

While many of these evocative caves are abandoned,

many cave settlements have grown into thriving towns,

whose main industry is clearly tourism.

For extra guidance, we're joined by my friend

and fellow tour guide, Lale Surmen Aran.

For years, Lale's led our bus tour groups around Turkey,

and for this itinerary, she's joining us.

ARAN: While mainly Muslim today, Anatolia was Christian

for five centuries before Islam even arrived.

Early Christians had to take shelter.

They had to had to hide from the ancient Roman persecutions.

They had to hide from the 7th century Arab invasions.

And the landscape around here provided the perfect hideout.

STEVES: It really does.

And to actually see what Lale's talking about,

we're descending into Kaymakli,

a completely underground city dug out of the rock.

Much of Kaymakli

was originally dug in Hittite times,

over 1,000 years before Christ.

Later, this underground world provided an almost

ready-made refuge.

Through the centuries,

when invading armies passed through the area,

entire communities lived down here for months at a stretch.

In ancient times, Christians were persecuted

and actually did go, literally, underground.

This is a remarkable example of their determination

to live free and true to their faith.

Imagine, 300 AD, hiding out down here with your family.

In fact, hiding out down here with your entire community.

And people up there hunting you down.

Tourists are free to explore

the networks of streets and plazas.

You'll find kitchens...

cramped living spaces...

massive, roll-away-the-stone doors...

and ingenious ventilation shafts

to bring fresh air to the many

underground levels.

They could have made these tunnels bigger,

but that was part of the plan.

It certainly made any invader vulnerable.

And to conserve oxygen,

candlelight was kept to a minimum.

It must have been a long, dark wait.

But for us, it's back to fresh air and sunshine.

We're on our way again.

As time went on, sprawling communities

still digging caves for homes

inhabited entire valleys like Zelve.

Around the 10th century,

Zelve was one of scores of similar cave communities

here in Cappadocia.

Cleverly, they wrung a livelihood

out of this parched land.

Caves served as ancient condominiums,

with holes dug out as cooking pits.

In addition to living spaces,

they were also equipped with natural pantries,

cubbyholes carved out for storage of food and wine.

Big, animal-powered stone wheels ground grain.

People ingeniously used whatever nature offered them.

Pigeon droppings were collected,

providing valuable fertilizer to assure a good harvest

in the valley below.

Imagine this place centuries ago.

It was a thriving community, thousands of people,

families everywhere, old people,

little kids running up and down these stairs,

borrowing salt from the neighbors.

And people lived here till the 1950s.

Nearby, in the town of Urgup,

it's market day, another chance to appreciate the culture.

[Speaking Turkish]

Wherever you travel, exploring a vibrant scene like this

gives a fine insight into how the people live,

what they grow...

ARAN: Take it, Rick. It's natural honey.

STEVES: And just eat this whole thing?

...what they eat...

Who needs baklava, huh? This is nice.

It tastes like honey.

...and how they interact.

STEVES: Nice, beautiful spices, huh?

ARAN: Yes, local spices.

They sell them both powdered and rough.

And you can grind it at home whenever you need it.

On the fringe of the marketplace,

you can even buy livestock.

-How old is this little goat? -One and a half months old.

[Bleats]

[Speaks Turkish]

ARAN: He can give you a good deal for the goat.

STEVES: Yeah, how much?

-The twin and the mother. -I just want the one baby.

I think this little guy likes me.

[Bleats]

And where there's wool, there's yarn.

The tradition of carpet weaving

is integral to the local culture.

And across Turkey, families still make yarn from raw wool

and then weave carpets in the traditional

and painstaking way.

While they're ultimately sold in larger stores,

many carpets continue to be made like this,

in people's homes,

to supplement the family income.

Throughout Turkey, big carpet shops

hungrily welcome both tour groups and individuals.

Salesmen are on you like white on rice.

There's a lot to learn,

but these guys are salesmen first, teachers second.

Listen, learn, but don't be a pushover.

MAN: This is a personal decision.

Places like this really know how to sell carpets.

Before we go in, here's a shopper's tip.

Prices often build in a 20% commission

for the guide or the person who brought you.

And remember, even in a fancy place like this,

bargaining's expected.

Now relax and enjoy the show.

MAN: Whenever you want, you can stand up,

you can touch them, you can walk on them,

you can feel them, you can buy them.

[Laughs]

It's fun to find out as much as you can

about where the carpet was made,

whether there's any special meaning to the designs,

and the traditional techniques.

MAN: Could you just imagine

all those little designs,

all those little details made by hand.

And this carpet takes 24 months.

I mean, two years of time by two person.

You pay top dollar in a place like this,

but there's a good selection, you're assured of high quality,

and they make payment and shipping

almost too easy.

MAN: And, also, we will provide you

a beautiful Turkish Samsonite bag.

To venture beyond the touristic side of Cappadocia,

we're driving south

into the ancient and varied countryside.

Rest stops and rustic villages can lead to pleasant surprises

you'd never find in the bigger tourist stops.

Traditional life survives most vividly

in the small, rural towns.

And with a spirit of adventure, the curious traveler

is likely to stumble onto lots of cultural action.

This elaborate family festival

is celebrating an important event

in this child's life, his circumcision.

For Turkish boys, a circumcision is a cultural

and time-honored rite of passage.

All the family and friends gather

as the proud boy dresses up like a sultan prince.

As the festival unfolds, the party kicks into gear.

When the time comes,

the boy receives blessings from his elders.

And then loved ones gather to cheer him on.

Inside his home, his proud parents

lovingly support their child as he meets the doctor.

Meanwhile, the music and dancing in the backyard

continues for hours.

Traditionally, Turks love a good circumcision party.

Some call it "a wedding without the in-laws."

We're heading further south

to the remote and un-touristy town

of Guzelyurt.

The ancient town seems one

with the rock out of which it was carved.

16 centuries ago, monks built monasteries into the cliffside.

Erosion has driven most of the residents here

to more stable dwellings,

but some remain, and exploring the town,

you appreciate the tenacity of its people.

Though seemingly abandoned,

there's still life in the old town.

Residents somehow eke out a living

from its crumbling terraces

and neglected gardens.

People do their humble chores,

as if stubbornly refusing

to give up on their town.