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[MUSIC]
My name is Daniel Hernandez.
I'm the editor of Vice Mexico.
We're here outside the Vice Mexico offices in
Colonia Roma, in Mexico City.
And today we are gonna take a shotgun tour of
three classic Mexico City fondas.
[MUSIC]
I think that Fonda's faithfully reflect
the gastronomical traditions of
past generations in Mexico.
At a Fonda, everyone is equal.
Usually, there is
a menu of the day served around lunch time.
And this starts off with soup, and
then comes rice, or
pasta, and then the main dish, or Quisado.
[MUSIC]
Right now we're heading to La Beatricita, which
has been in operation in Mexico City since 1910.
La Senora Beatrice Mucino developed tacos that
became famous among rioters and
politicians in Mexico.
And we're going to try the famous Paquete,
the 58 peso breakfast package.
So, [LAUGH] we're gonna go and check it out.
[MUSIC]
>> Well this restaurant is full of tradition.
It has been around since 1907.
And since 1972 we have been in Zona Rosa.
I think the secret, more than anything else,
is the love we have for the restaurant.
I am currently the last descendant of that
generation.
And this is the last restaurant we still have,
after more than 100 years of business.
And the main thing is
that the flavor has not changed.
That is very difficult to maintain.
[MUSIC]
>> Just like many others have done, and
her brother migrated to Mexico City in search of
a better life.
They set up a that gradually became famous
and grown and
is still known today as La Beatricita.
100 years later, you can
have La Beatricita what back in the day
[MUSIC]
>> The main thing that most people enjoy is the
mole poblano, made with our traditional recipe.
So we have managed to conserve our
original recipes so that when people come,
it tastes exactly the same.
This is the special taco.
It is fried tortilla,
filled with chicken breast,
topped with the house specialty, which is mole,
and then cheese and sour cream.
[MUSIC]
What do you think of the mole?
Have you ever tried anything like it?
>> Off the bat, I would say no.
[LAUGH] >> No,
it is very different.
That is the pozole.
Look, here it is.
that is the pozole.
Look, here it is. If you want you can add
onion, oregano, and a little bit of salsa.
But, be careful it is very spicy.
To accompany it, you take a bite of the tostada,
and then you eat the pozole.
>> It doesn't feel heavy like pozole usually does.
This one isn't greasy.
>> No, it's actually very light,
because the meat is very lean.
Look, these are the flans.
This one is vanilla and caramel.
And this one is coconut flan.
It is a bit more cake-like,
and it is baked.
>> Let's do it. [MUSIC]
Lunchtime.
[MUSIC]
Here we are in Colonia Guerrero, a popular,
historic, very old barrio close to
the historic city of Mexico City.
It's time to have lunch.
For many people in Mexico City it's
the most important meal of the day,
the biggest meal of the day.
In this case,
I've heard good things about the chili relleno,
so I'm not sure what I'm gonna have yet but
I'm leaning toward the chili relleno.
[MUSIC]
>> Welcome and enjoy.
We hope to satisfy.
The food you eat during your visit is flavorful,
delicious and exquisite.
If life's delicacies are what you are after,
it's whatever food the customer asks for.
Fly away birdie with your adorning beauty, but
remember what awaits you at Fonda La Reforma.
>> Bravo.
[APPLAUSE] [LAUGH] >> Someone wrote that in
exchange for a quick meal.
So that's just its popularity.
It is very popular.
>> We were all born here in this neighborhood and
so were our children.
We are all family.
That is my son.
That is my son.
The waitress is my niece.
The man with grey hair is my brother.
We are all family.
>> This place was established 80 years ago.
>> 80 years.
>> We used to be across the street,
next to the chicken place.
We were there for 75 years.
>> So if you were there for
75 years, you have been here for less, right?
>> Yes. >> Less than
ten years here.
>> My mother founded this restaurant.
She's the one who took care of me and
my 20 brothers.
She cooked really well.
She cooked any kind of dish.
[MUSIC]
Here the family specials are rice, pork rinds,
stuffed chilies, mole, pork stew, and the soup.
>> Excellent.
Let's get started with the menu.
I'll start with the soup.
Flabby soup.
Warm and made from scratch.
Warm and delicious.
>> The soup is prepared with chicken stock,
pork stock, onion, garlic, and tomato.
>> Now we are starting the second course,
which is the rice.
It is a staple dish.
There are a couple of chili peppers thrown in.
>> The rice is made with corn, peas,
carrots and chilies.
>> Now we are going to try the chile relleno
at La Reforma,
a diner with lots of history and tradition.
It is in an area of Mexico City
that tourists might night visit, but
those who are in the know, know.
This is a chile relleno,
made of dried chile ancho.
A red chili.
The breading, the chili and the cheese.
A perfect trifecta.
It tastes like real home cooking,
like it was carefully prepared by them.
It is delicious.
So dessert is here.
It is just a little something,
half an orange, which I think is perfect.
A good ending to a good meal,
here at La Reforma in Colonia Guerrero.
[MUSIC]
So, the day isn't over yet.
We're gonna go to a place called Fonda Margarita
in a few hours and a, and a bit longer.
This is a place that is special because it's open
only from sunrise to before noon.
[MUSIC]
So, it's just past 5 a.m.
The streets of Mexico City are pretty empty.
And now, we're headed to Fonda Margarita famously
only opens you know, between dawn and noon of
the next day and, so I've never had the chance to
make it here even though I've heard about this
place for forever and have been wanting to go.
Never had that warrior status to
make it here after a long night of drinking.
But we're on our way there now.
[MUSIC]
[FOREIGN] Looks like there is the pork rinds,
beef in pasilla chilli.
Looks like there is the pork rinds,
beef in pasilla chilli.
That one is the pancita.
>> Yes, it is.
>> It looks delicious.
>> We have been here for about 48 years.
We always have the best, freshest ingredients.
We never serve leftovers.
Look, this is pork in salsa.
>> Ooh.
>> This is longaniza, sausage.
>> This is just being prepared,
they are refried beans.
>> And that is lard?
>> Uh-huh.
>> Yummy.
>> And this is where we cook ribs, eggs.
>> Damn, everything looks delicious.
[MUSIC]
>> Well the first to arrive are the ones who
haven't slept yet.
Next come the early birds,
mostly older people.
A little bit later the families start to arrive.
>> And the dishes start to run out,
and it's over, but
people are still in line, aren't they?
>> Yes, we send someone to tell them that all we
have left are eggs,
beans, or grilled chicken.
Everyone says that is fine and stay in line.
Sometimes it's 1 pm and
all we are serving is eggs.
Here even our eggs are tasty.
[MUSIC]
>> This is sausage and egg.
>> This is pancita, beef tripe soup.
I am dying to try it, can I?
[MUSIC]
Let's pass this over to our colleague, Danny D.
This is carne asada with guacamole.
Damn, I think I am done.
[LAUGH] I think 24 hours of
visiting fondas in DF has taken its toll.
[LAUGH] In a city that has so
many Fondas, I think everyone has that one
place that they swear is the best.
The only rule here is,
you're in the know, then you're in the know.
[MUSIC]