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  • [Host speaking in Cantonese]

  • - We're here on Temple Street.

  • We're here for clay pot rice at Hing Kee,

  • and chef says he's about to put 20 of them

  • on the stove at the same time.

  • So we're gonna go take a look at what's going on.

  • [people chattering]

  • [Host speaking in Cantonese]

  • [Host speaking in Cantonese]

  • Okay, so welcome to the clay pot kitchen.

  • This is Fai-ge.

  • Fai-ge is a chef.

  • He's been here for like 20 years, basically,

  • and this restaurant's been opening for 43 years.

  • They haven't changed the way

  • they're making the clay pot rice.

  • This is 20 at the same time.

  • It's like a xy, it's like a double layered xylophone.

  • First thing's first, he's turning everything up

  • to a super high heat.

  • Water goes in.

  • The good thing about this clay pot

  • is that it gets super hot really quickly,

  • and that he's gonna reduce the flame

  • to try to get that nice [speaks in Cantonese],

  • that crispy rice bottom.

  • The reason why you can only have clay pot rice

  • like this in Hong Kong

  • is because what you're tasting

  • is technique and craftsmanship.

  • Every decision that the chef makes,

  • his philosophy and his sense of style,

  • sums into that pot of rice.

  • And it's just so technical, dude.

  • Like they've been here for 40 something years

  • and every pot is this good.

  • If you come over here, dude, this is all of the toppings.

  • One of my favorite things about clay pot rice

  • is that it's totally customizable.

  • So whatever you want on top of your rice you can get.

  • Different color coded orders.

  • 60 something types of rice toppings I think they have here.

  • Some of them are a little bit new

  • like later you might spot cured meats, sausages, bacon.

  • This place Hing Kee, they specialize

  • in one type of liver sausage that has foie gras,

  • but really, it's actually a goose liver.

  • First step is over.

  • Rice is partially cooked,

  • and that rice is finished absorbing all of that water.

  • So he's gonna slow down the momentum of the cook

  • and each and every topping's gonna go on.

  • Dude, 20 at the same time is actually freaking ridiculous.

  • Here's a lowdown, clay pot rice comes down to a question

  • of philosophy and style.

  • Every single component of the clay pot rice,

  • because it's so simple of a dish, can be changed

  • and different chefs will have different approaches.

  • The clay pot rice is an ecosystem,

  • which means that as it's slowly cooking,

  • the steam's gonna rise up to the top.

  • It's gonna start cooking the meat

  • and the flavorful toppings,

  • and all of that is going to slowly drip downwards

  • in the form of fat, in the form of flavor,

  • and in the form of like umami.

  • He's moving the clay pots to the other side of the burner

  • where it's a little bit less hot,

  • so that he can start building that crispy rice bottom.

  • He thinks of the bottom of the clay pot in quadrants,

  • so he is gonna move it four times.

  • So it's very, very even.

  • You get as much crispy bottom as you can.

  • You'll see that black buildup on the bottom?

  • That's actually flavor.

  • All of that hot air is gonna be filtered

  • through this semi-porous clay pot.

  • Experts would say it's first about the flavor of the rice

  • and capturing it within this pot.

  • But second of all,

  • it's also about building myriad of textures.

  • There's the fluffy fragrant rice over the top.

  • There's a rice that is almost logged with like oil

  • and grease and flavor from the toppings

  • that drip down onto it,

  • and then there's that crispy thing on the bottom.

  • Now is the last stage.

  • The important thing here is that clay pot rice

  • is not finished cooking after you take it off the heat

  • because it needs to sit for just about a minute or two.

  • After the garnish, it's just gonna sit,

  • so that all of the juices settle to the bottom of the pot

  • so that the rice is properly flavored.

  • And as the temperature starts to come down

  • just a little bit,

  • all those flavors are gonna end up mingling.

  • You also need the residual heat on the clay pot itself

  • to build that final crispy texture on the bottom of the pot.

  • [Host chuckles]

  • Win.

  • [people chattering]

  • Here it come. [chuckles]

  • As absurd.

  • Chef's running back to make sure he gets the other 20 going.

  • Okay.

  • [Server speaking in Cantonese]

  • [Host speaking in Cantonese]

  • [Server speaking in Cantonese]

  • [Host speaking in Cantonese]

  • [Server speaking in Cantonese]

  • [Host speaking in Cantonese]

  • [Server speaking in Cantonese]

  • [Host speaking in Cantonese]

  • - I ordered the beef patty with a raw egg over the top,

  • which is a classic.

  • And the second I ordered was a yellow eel with the white eel

  • and the foie gras goose liver sausage.

  • Let's talk about the rice.

  • My opinion is that Jasmine rice has to be soaked

  • because you need it to cook quickly,

  • otherwise the inside of your rice

  • might become like al dente,

  • which is not a good thing for Chinese salad rice.

  • Some people say that a short grain rice,

  • usually from northern China or Japan,

  • might be a little bit more fragrant.

  • Some people believe that the long grain Jasmine rice,

  • which is what you know as Hong Kong people like,

  • is a little bit more flavorful.

  • It might have a little bit better of a texture,

  • some people do mixes.

  • Here, they do Thai Jasmine rice.

  • It might be us.

  • Once it hits a table, you're not supposed to open it, dude.

  • You're supposed to let us sit for a minute

  • because everything is still cooking.

  • That heat is critical right now.

  • Any of those like flavor particles are too excited inside

  • to like calm down a little bit

  • and seep into each each other.

  • So we're gonna sit patiently for about a minute

  • and not open this as badly as you want this thumbnail shot.

  • [Host chuckles]

  • Baby.

  • You see that air gap?

  • That means the rice has,

  • it's absorbed all that liquid as it's cooking.

  • And then as it's cooking,

  • it's starting to dry and dry and dry.

  • And because it's separated a little bit like this

  • then you know it's crispy.

  • If you put oil into this, it would've deep fried.

  • Yes, it would be crispy, but it would taste like oil.

  • This is very special.

  • Clay pot rice issues is mating call to Hong Kong people

  • once it starts to get cold.

  • First gusts that rolls in through the Victoria Harbor,

  • people start yelling and clamoring for clay pot rice.

  • That's soy sauce, the soul of the clay pot rice.

  • We're just gonna mix all of this together.

  • It's not just soy sauce out of the bottle.

  • It's seasoned soy sauce.

  • It's got sugar in it.

  • He makes it with aromatics served with a bunch of ginger,

  • garlic, onion, that sort of stuff, secret spice.

  • The heat of the rice is gonna help steam that egg,

  • help it finish cooking.

  • Mm.

  • It's almost like a call and response thing

  • where there's a little bit of like that ginger and onion

  • that's inside of that soy sauce.

  • It's like calling the flavors of the ginger

  • and the scallions and stuff inside of the rice itself out

  • like coaxes everything out.

  • It's like teases out all those flavors.

  • Really high quality beef.

  • One thing we Hong Kong people like about beef

  • and pork patties in general is we like to move it.

  • We like to mix a lot. The texture is developed

  • like standing those like protein chains

  • and all he's doing is like mixing and mixing

  • and working and working and working it,

  • so it's a little bit like the inside of a dumpling.

  • Little bit like a bouncy meatball.

  • It's such a technical dish.

  • I feel like maybe chef is putting it on today.

  • I know it's good.

  • It's like not supposed to be this good.

  • The whole choice of toppings

  • is that it needs to have enough fat.

  • Eel is a perfect fish for this.

  • If you use like tilapia or whatever,

  • it would not produce this effect.

  • The fat wouldn't drip down wooden flavor in the rice.

  • You get that like toastiness of that Jasmine rice,

  • and then you get a little bit of that grease

  • that came off of that eel,

  • that fattiness that just drips down.

  • All of it's captured inside of this ecosystem

  • inside of this environment.

  • That's like goose liver.

  • It's quite fatty.

  • I like it more than foie gras to be honest.

  • I can't wait to get to the bottom.

  • Ready?

  • [Host chuckles]

  • Come on, baby.

  • Isn't that ridiculous?

  • This is just such a show off technique.

  • It's such a flex.

  • I freaking like textural delight.

  • The rice has absorbed all this moisture.

  • He's taking so much patience and so much effort

  • to coax all that rice water out.

  • So it's just the flavor of the rice left.

  • Now, to philosophies.

  • Some people mix that crispy thing inside,

  • chef says bad idea.

  • It should be two courses.

  • First thing, everything on top of the rice, fluffy texture,

  • and then go for the crispy stuff

  • 'cause it needs time to develop.

  • This is what you're supposed to end up with,

  • just the bottom of the rice.

  • And you're supposed to just eat this as a final bit.

  • That's that extra little delight you get to have.

  • A bunch of people in the comments probably going,

  • "I've seen better crispy rice."

  • "Have you heard of Tahdig,

  • where we cook it with yogurt and oil?"

  • Pardon my pronunciation.

  • "Have you seen Paella?

  • We had a bunch of oil."

  • No oil.

  • When I was 16, I started cooking in Hong Kong.

  • I had the audacity of calling myself the clay pot kid

  • because in Cantonese it's [speaks in Cantonese].

  • You know how like rappers have rapper names?

  • Some chefs have chef names.

  • The Curious Cook, Momofu, whatever it is, Lucky Peach.

  • Mine when I was a kid was The Clay Pot Kid

  • because this is the first dish that I learned how to cook,

  • and it honestly might be my favorite dish in Hong Kong.

  • Oh, Gong Beng.

  • Oyster pancake.

  • This is not a oyster pancake episode, but it could be.

  • Chiu Chow style, deep fried properly.

  • Fresh oysters mix into the batter, pour into the oil.

  • It starts to fry.

  • [oil sizzling]

  • And then she drizzles a little bit more batter over the top

  • to make this crispy bottom.

  • You know what my mom used to say?

  • She used to talk about the way I eat

  • always makes other people feel hungry.

  • [camera clicking]

[Host speaking in Cantonese]

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We Went to Hong Kong’s Number 1 Clay Pot Rice Spot - Street Food Tour with Lucas Sin | Bon Appétit

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    TIK に公開 2023 年 07 月 17 日
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