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  • The Nikon Z9 is a fantastic camera,

  • but its size and price have proven

  • to be serious barriers for many shooters.

  • So now Nikon has this, the Z8,

  • which is basically a Z9 with the latest firmware,

  • but at 30% smaller and nearly 30% cheaper too.

  • What's not to like?

  • Let's get undone!

  • Gerald Undone

  • He's crazy

  • What's happening, everybody!?

  • I'm Gerald Undone and every second

  • that you aren't running,

  • I'm getting closer.

  • As usual, for disclosure,

  • Nikon lent me this camera to make this review,

  • I don't get to keep it,

  • no money changed hands,

  • and Nikon does not get any input

  • on this video's production

  • or get to preview it before it's posted.

  • This video does have an actual sponsor though

  • and that's iFootage.

  • Now I don't like to make videos

  • that I've already made

  • and since this is fundamentally a Z9,

  • I'd like to think I already made two videos

  • on this camera.

  • So if you wanna know about the regular stuff

  • that's mostly unchanged,

  • I suggest you watch my initial review.

  • And I also have a video about

  • the 2.0 firmware and the Nikon Raw.

  • So instead, today we're going

  • to be focusing on what's been improved

  • and talking a bit about the 3.0 firmware

  • that I never covered,

  • because this camera comes

  • with those latest features at launch.

  • So let's start with what's different about the body.

  • It's smaller, which means a smaller battery

  • and less heat dissipation than the Z9,

  • which we'll get to in a second.

  • Ergonomically though, it's a big win for me.

  • It's not nearly as heavy as the Z9

  • and feels more like DSLR body.

  • It's still large for a mirrorless,

  • but very comfortable if you're used

  • to something like a D850.

  • And it's very spacious and forgiving

  • if you've got big hands.

  • The LCD screen is great.

  • It doesn't flip out,

  • but it's 2.1 million dots and gives plenty

  • of mobility for tilting in both orientations.

  • The button layout is mostly the same

  • for better or worse and the experience

  • is extremely familiar.

  • The body isn't as weather sealed as the Z9,

  • but it's still highly resistant to inclement weather.

  • It still features 3.5 millimeter headphone and mic jacks,

  • a full size HDMI port,

  • and a USB-C port for power delivery,

  • but now they have a second USB-C port

  • just for communication, which is nice,

  • because lately I've been rigging out cameras

  • and running into issues where I can't use

  • the USB-C port for power if I want to use it

  • for anything else.

  • This isn't a problem here, which is cool.

  • The card slots are different than the Z9.

  • You now have one CFexpress slot,

  • which is backwards compatible with XQD,

  • and one SD card slot.

  • Normally I would complain that this limits

  • our ability to do backup recording

  • with higher bitrate codecs,

  • but Nikon still hasn't implemented redundant

  • recording in video anyway,

  • so the different card types isn't really

  • an issue for video shooters.

  • However, I did complain a lot about the card door

  • on the Z9 and I'm happy to report that this door

  • is much easier to open.

  • Although it does take some getting used

  • to because part of the grip opens with the door,

  • so you have to reposition your hand.

  • As I mentioned, the battery is the smaller EL15c,

  • the same form factor you'd find in many other Nikon cameras,

  • but it does mean we take a hit on record times.

  • Now as usual with any overheating tests,

  • it's important to keep ambient temperature in mind.

  • I can offer advice for shooting

  • in a climate-controlled environment or outdoors up

  • to about 24 Celsius or 75 Fahrenheit,

  • but beyond that,

  • your mileage may vary and very likely decrease.

  • Also, remember that Nikon now has a temperature

  • threshold setting in the menu.

  • They advised me that when it is set to STANDARD

  • you can expect about 60 minutes of 8K recording

  • and when set to HIGH,

  • you'll get closer to 90 minutes.

  • And I found those numbers to be reasonably

  • accurate in my environment.

  • When set to 8K24 with the H.265 codec,

  • I recorded for one hour and 35 minutes

  • before the camera overheated,

  • and after letting it cool and recording again,

  • I got another 19 minutes before the battery died.

  • So about one hour and 54 minutes

  • on the battery in that mode.

  • In 4K24, which is oversampled from the 8K,

  • I recorded for one hour and 58 minutes

  • without overheating before the battery died.

  • In both modes, I got a "Hot Card" warning

  • after about 20 to 30 minutes.

  • This is because I was using the CFexpress slot.

  • You likely wouldn't see this with the SD card recording.

  • Now it's interesting to note that you can extend

  • the battery life in 4K24 recording by plugging

  • in USB-C power delivery,

  • but this camera still possesses

  • the two hour and five minute recording limit.

  • I've asked Nikon why this exists multiple times

  • and I've still never gotten an answer.

  • In a way, you could say it works out nicely

  • that it will either overheat or the battery

  • will die before that two hour mark anyway,

  • and at that point you could just do a card and battery swap

  • every two hours,

  • which will also help cool the camera.

  • But it's just important to remember

  • that if you need to record long, uninterrupted clips,

  • you'll need to hook up an external recorder,

  • which should also reduce the overheating too.

  • Speaking of cooling off the camera, though,

  • let's talk about the hottest mode, 8K60 raw.

  • In this mode, I got a yellow temp warning at 11 minutes,

  • a hot card warning at 12,

  • then a red temp warning at 15 minutes,

  • and then a red warning with the word high at 23 minutes.

  • It's funny how much information Nikon tries

  • to give with the overheating.

  • You end up with a lot of stuff on your screen.

  • And then when it finally overheats it starts a countdown,

  • which is stressful, but helpful.

  • Anyway, I made it all the way to 24 and a half minutes,

  • but then my card was full.

  • This was using a 650 Gigabyte ProGrade CFexpress card

  • and I was using the more compressed raw.

  • If you use the high quality raw,

  • you get less than 15 minutes with 650 Gigabytes at 8K60

  • Anyway, I quickly formatted and started recording

  • again to keep the temperature up on the camera and the card,

  • and was I able to record for just over

  • another 23 minutes before it overheated.

  • So that's about 48 minutes total of 8K60 raw

  • with a quick format halfway through.

  • If I let it cool for one minute,

  • I could record another 10 minutes.

  • If I let it cool for five minutes,

  • I could fill the card again

  • with another 24 minutes of recording.

  • When recording in 4K60 on this camera

  • you have the option to enable extended oversampling,

  • which lets you oversample beyond the usual 4K24

  • and do it up to 4K60 as well.

  • In this mode, you can expect similar performance to 8K60,

  • since that's basically what the camera is reading at.

  • In my test, the oversampled 4K60 overheated at 56 minutes.

  • If, however, I recorded 4K60 in the binned

  • or line skipped mode with oversampling turned off,

  • then I didn't experience any overheating.

  • Lastly, let's say you record a more modest 8K24 Raw,

  • well first I only got an hour of card space on

  • that 650 Gigabyte card,

  • but I did manage to quickly format

  • it at that one hour mark

  • and record again immediately

  • and do that until the battery died,

  • which for me was one hour and 53 minutes total,

  • which logically is similar

  • to the 4K24 oversampled performance.

  • So what's the verdict?

  • Well, you're limited to two hours recording

  • either way unless you record externally,

  • and many of the modes can get you almost

  • two hours of battery life without overheating.

  • The modes that do overheat more quickly should

  • still get you close to an hour in a studio environment

  • and at least 50 minutes at 24C or below.

  • But it also cools down quickly,

  • so if you're just recording clips,

  • I don't see this camera being an issue for you,

  • but if you want really long takes,

  • you're gonna need to buy an external recorder,

  • and at that point, there's probably

  • better options for the money.

  • Now while we're talking about

  • all these different recording modes,

  • let's talk rolling shutter,

  • because I didn't have my strobe

  • when I reviewed the Z9,

  • so now I can give you some actual numbers

  • regarding the read speeds of this sensor.

  • So if you record using the full 8.3K sensor

  • whether that's for an 8K recording

  • or an oversampled 4K recording,

  • you can expect about 14.5 milliseconds,

  • which is slower than something like an a7S III,

  • but probably the fastest of these full frame

  • 8K hybrid cameras.

  • If you shoot 4K120 or the line skipped 4K60,

  • the read speed drastically improves to 4.9 milliseconds,

  • which is extremely fast.

  • I really like how Nikon gives us the option

  • between a slower, but higher quality 4K60,

  • or a fast-reading, non-oversampled 4K60

  • for when we need that.

  • I wish more brands would do this.

  • If you switch to the DX crop,

  • which still does some oversampling,

  • but from a lower resolution starting point,

  • the 4K up to 60 frames per second reads at 9.6 milliseconds,

  • and 6.6 milliseconds if you shoot at 4K120.

  • This suggests that there'll be some minor quality loss

  • when comparing the 4K120 to the 4K60 in this mode,

  • as it can only read faster

  • if it isn't processing as much data.

  • But overall, this is a fast sensor.

  • Again, probably the best in its class.

  • You know what else is best in its class?

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  • the PL1-80BN and 80C.

  • The 80BN sets a new standard for bi-color lighting

  • with its innovative BLWW mixing technology

  • which combines blue, lime, warm white

  • and cold white LEDs to give more precise performance

  • and exceptional color accuracy,

  • which also more closely mimics the natural light of the sun.

  • They also have an RGB option with the PL1-80C,

  • which actually manages to double the output intensity

  • of its colors compared to competing lights

  • with similar wattage.

  • Both lights feature a fine-tuned,

  • 45-degree beam angle granting a threefold increase

  • in illuminance while maintaining power efficiency,

  • which allows for consistent lighting even up

  • to three meters away.

  • And the lights can be controlled using

  • the intuitive precision dials

  • on the fixture itself or with the iFootage Lumin app,

  • which now offers a presets function

  • that gives the ability to elegantly switch

  • between different lighting setups within the same scene.

  • I highly encourage you to discover the power

  • and precision of iFootage's new panel lights

  • by using the link in the description below.

  • Now let's talk about dynamic range.

  • So you've got four different options for recording,

  • there's the H.265 codec that will get you

  • up to 8K30 or 4K120, there's ProRes 422 HQ,

  • which goes up to 4K60,

  • there's ProRes Raw which is 4.1K up to 60p,

  • but I don't personally mess with ProRes Raw much.

  • I'm not a big fan of it and I use DaVinci Resolve.

  • And then you've got N-RAW

  • which is the only way to get 8K60,

  • but can also do 4.1K up to 120 frames per second.

  • So let's start with ProRes 422 HQ 4K24

  • in N-Log to get a baseline sense of performance.

  • Using the Xyla 21 and Imatest,

  • we measured a total of 14 stops of dynamic range,

  • which is reflected here under Slope-based DR.

  • But we also like to determine how many clean

  • stops of dynamic range we have when factoring in noise,

  • which can be seen here next to medium,

  • which is with a signal to noise ratio of two,

  • and there we get 12.1 stops,

  • which is a respectable score for ProRes,

  • which tends to be less forgiving than H.265.

  • If we bump the ISO to 4000 from 800,

  • which is this camera's second native,

  • we can see that we maintain our 14 stops total

  • and 12 stops medium, which is great.

  • However, if we switch to H.265,

  • we get some very bizarre results.

  • The noise reduction is so intense that Imatest

  • is suggesting that all 14 stops are preserved

  • all the way down.

  • And if you look at the graphs,

  • the color channels have all bled together

  • to form a black line,

  • instead of separate channels as normal.

  • The same thing happens at both native ISOs,

  • and even when shooting 8K in H.265.

  • So I had a look at the shadows,

  • brightened them up in post,

  • and then compared them to the ProRes version

  • and sure enough we can see significant blocking

  • and artifacts when compared to ProRes,

  • which explains the weird results.

  • However, after further testing,

  • I noticed that the issue mostly resolves itself

  • after a few seconds of recording.

  • Now, there's still far too much noise reduction

  • in my opinion, especially when compared to ProRes,

  • but it's at least usable and measurable now.

  • And when doing that, we see 13.8 stops total,

  • but now with a medium score of 13.3,

  • which is how you know the noise reduction

  • is too aggressive.

  • You shouldn't be able to jump from 12.1 to 13.3

  • just by switching codecs.

  • The 8K version when sampled from later

  • in the clip isn't as offensive,

  • it measures 12.4 on the medium,

  • which is much more logical when you factor

  • in the oversampling that occurs by dropping an 8K clip

  • on a 4K timeline.

  • So my advice is that if you want to shoot H.265

  • on this camera, shoot in 8K,

  • but if you have to use 4K H.265,

  • make sure you aren't putting anything critical

  • in the first few seconds of the recording.

  • Give it a little buffer time to smooth out

  • those artifacts in the shadows.

  • But ProRes HQ is definitely the better option all around.

  • Now let's talk about N-RAW.

  • If you drop 8K raw on an 8K timeline,

  • our medium score drops to about 10 stops.

  • This should give you an idea of how noisy the raw is.

  • But to fairly compare it against the ProRes,

  • we need to put it on a 4K timeline

  • to account for oversampling and the 4K limit of ProRes.

  • When we do that,

  • the score jumps to 11.6,

  • which gives us our baseline before

  • any noise reduction is applied.

  • This is a very manageable starting point

  • and more detail is definitely preserved

  • in the raw when comparing it to ProRes 422 HQ.

  • So if you like to finetune the noise reduction in post,

  • this would be the way to go.

  • But again, we have to consider those absurd file sizes.

  • I can get nearly double the record time of ProRes

  • than I can of N-Raw in its most compressed state.

  • So I'd say the overall best codec on this camera

  • for balancing image quality and usability

  • would be the ProRes 422HQ.

  • You can still oversample all the way up to 4K60

  • from that 8K image, but with less hassle

  • than the alternatives,

  • while gaining a streamlined post-production experience.

  • But I should mention that the raw panel

  • for N-RAW in DaVinci Resolve has been improved.

  • While I still wish you could decode

  • to other well-known gammas,

  • the clips are now correctly displaying as 12-bit,

  • the exposure adjustment now works more logically

  • where one point of exposure equals one stop,

  • instead of the previous 0.5 system.

  • And the overall performance of N-RAW seems smoother to me.

  • However, the white balance adjustments

  • still aren't easy fixes like others I've used.

  • You can't just type in a white balance

  • and move on like you can with other raw types.

  • There are major color shifts that need to be caressed.

  • This is a disappointment and furthers my case

  • that ProRes 422 HQ is the best choice most of the time.

  • Another thing that's improved since the last time

  • I used the Z9 is the Nikon LUT.

  • There is now a version two of the LUT that fixes

  • the issue of having major jumps in the tonal range.

  • The new LUT transitions much smoother between stops.

  • And I've noticed that the LUT and view assist

  • for the Z8 is a close match to that v2 LUT for the Z9,

  • so that's good.

  • One thing to keep in mind though

  • is the v2 LUT raises your final exposure more

  • than the v1 LUT did,

  • so you might have to retrain how you expose

  • if you shot a lot with the v1 version.

  • But again, the view assist on the Z8 helps a lot with this.

  • The colors of the new LUT are slightly different too.

  • Not a major departure, but slight differences

  • in luma and tweaks to the hues.

  • I'd say the new LUT is slightly more color accurate,

  • but it's not a huge difference once you account

  • for the exposure change, but the gradations are nicer.

  • Now as I mentioned,

  • there are some other improvements

  • I haven't covered that came with the 3.0 firmware

  • for the Z9, which we'll find here in the Z8.

  • First off is the new Hi-Res Zoom feature for 4K video.

  • Basically, it uses the 8K resolution of the sensor,

  • but instead of oversampling,

  • you can use the extra resolution to zoom up

  • to two times smoothly into the frame.

  • It works well for what it is

  • and could definitely be handy for certain situations,

  • but it does have some caveats.

  • First, it only seems to work up to 30 frames per second,

  • and it also seems to disable subject detection when enabled.

  • Autofocus still works, just not as well.

  • What's cool though is that you can set it

  • to be activated by the control ring of your lens

  • so it feels like you're actually zooming.

  • And speaking of lens rings,

  • Nikon has dramatically expanded the lenses

  • that support the new linear manual focus throw

  • and distance customization.

  • Last time I had the Z9 this only worked on two lenses,

  • but now every lens I've tested works,

  • some just require firmware updates.

  • This is great and makes manual focusing

  • a much nicer experience.

  • They've also added integration

  • for wireless timecode using AirGlu

  • and the Atomos UltraSync BLUE.

  • There's also been improvements to the autofocus

  • for better reliability.

  • They've added more subjects like "airplanes"

  • and enhanced the tracking.

  • I can't give a comparison here

  • as I don't have the previous version,

  • but I'd say it does feel pretty confident

  • in most situations,

  • but still struggles with low light autofocus in video

  • and is still highly dependent on which lens you're using.

  • I'd give it a 7.5/10 if that's worth anything.

  • And yes, for the photographers watching,

  • it even takes pictures.

  • It actually takes them very quickly,

  • and firmware 3.0 brought some additional

  • high-speed capture modes.

  • And if you're in photo mode and you rotate

  • to vertical orientation,

  • the on-screen information restructures itself

  • to look better for vertical shooting.

  • It doesn't do this in video though as far as I can tell.

  • Well, that's pretty much it.

  • Like I said, this camera is fundamentally

  • a firmware-upgraded Z9 in a much smaller

  • and cheaper package.

  • And that's saying something,

  • because the Z9 is great!

  • So as long as you don't mind the worse battery

  • or thermal management,

  • this is nothing but upsides.

  • And those issues aren't as impactful

  • when you consider the peculiar two-hour limit

  • both of those cameras put on your clips anyway.

  • And you can always add a grip to this camera

  • to match the battery life and form factor of the Z9,

  • but for less total cost.

  • And this is a cheaper

  • entry point as well if you plan

  • on adding external recording hardware

  • to get past that two-hour limit.

  • So no matter how you slice it,

  • you're gonna be spending less to get the same or better.

  • They've basically made a great camera

  • more accessible and that's a win in my books.

  • Alright... I'm done.

  • (light upbeat music)

The Nikon Z9 is a fantastic camera,

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Nikon Z8 Review: Smaller. Cheaper. Still Excellent.

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    joe yah に公開 2023 年 06 月 13 日
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