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  • - I have patient who know they have a skin cancer

  • and they're like well, I treated it with apple cider vinegar

  • for two months and it didn't go away.

  • I'm like really? (chuckles)

  • Okay. (upbeat percussion music)

  • Hi, I'm Dr. Ellen Marmur.

  • I'm a Board Certified Dermatologist in New York City.

  • I have two practices called Marmur medical

  • and a skincare line called MM Skincare.

  • I'm here today to do a deep dive in the go to bed with me

  • comments section about sunscreen, eye creams, and cleansers.

  • First things first, let's dive into sunscreen.

  • (upbeat percussion music)

  • Catherine Coon, "Why do dermatologists

  • "talk about using sunscreen all the time?

  • "If I'm only going to be outside for a total of 30 minutes

  • "spread throughout the day,

  • "isn't that just a good healthy way

  • "of getting your vitamin D?

  • "I definitely don't burn unless I'm outside

  • "for more than 30 minutes at a given time."

  • The myth is that sunscreen blocks vitamin D.

  • So really you need to know

  • that you're gonna get your vitamin D through your diet,

  • so eat a great diet,

  • you're gonna get vitamin D through your sunscreen

  • so you can still wear your sunscreens.

  • It's not really a reason to not wear sunscreen

  • and think about sunscreen math.

  • When you wear sunscreen 20 plus sunscreen 30

  • you're still just getting a better sunscreen 20.

  • So there's no reason to not just have it in your makeup

  • or in your moisturizer every day

  • and just get that added benefit.

  • But talk about skin cancer math.

  • Skin cancer happens from an accumulation of sun exposure

  • so even if you're out for five minutes here,

  • five minutes there, five minutes there

  • you're getting an addition of that sun damage

  • throughout the day.

  • So use your sun protection.

  • I tell my patients it's like money in the bank

  • for good health and better skin

  • so there's no reason not to put on your sunscreen.

  • So what is SPF?

  • SPF is sun protection factor and really what it means

  • is how long can you stay out in the sun

  • without getting a sunburn and usually what is means

  • is that it's protecting you against UVB

  • which is a portion of the type of UV you get.

  • So you get ultraviolet A and ultraviolet B.

  • A is usually the tanning rays,

  • B is usually the burning rays.

  • Now that we have broad spectrum sunscreen

  • you're getting sun protection

  • throughout the UVA and UVB segment

  • but SPF still stands only for UVB protection

  • and it means how many times longer

  • can you stay out in the sun before getting red.

  • So an SPF 15 would mean

  • that you can stay out for 15 times longer in the sun.

  • So for example if I were to go out in the sun

  • and get sun burnt in a minute and I put on SPF 15

  • it would give me 15 minutes before I turned red.

  • If you're the kind of person who would go out in the sun

  • and you live in the tropics where the sun is really hot

  • and it would take you only let's say an hour

  • to get a sunburn and you put SPF 15 on

  • then you could stay out for 15 hours theoretically.

  • However, the problem is none of us put on SPF

  • as thick as it is tested in the FDA labs.

  • So most of us rub it off.

  • We think we're rubbing it in

  • but we're really just schmearing it thinner and thinner

  • so you're really never getting the number

  • that you have on you label.

  • So maybe an SPF 50 or an SPF 60

  • is then giving you an SPF 30.

  • So always opt up on the number of SPF.

  • I feel like a 15 doesn't even count.

  • So really it should be between SPF 30 and 60

  • for your sweet spot.

  • KW Jeong said, "How should I put my SPF and with what?"

  • I think that means how should I put on my SPF and with what?

  • It depends, so there's so many different kinds of FDA

  • sort of approved types of applications.

  • So gels, the balms, the creams, the sprays.

  • Those are all allowable by the FDA to claim an SPF,

  • meaning the FDA says those all work.

  • The old fashioned ways are lotions

  • and you should just schmear it on and you should put it on

  • about 15 minutes before you go out in the sun.

  • I think there's a little bit of a mythology in that

  • like putting it on for 15 minutes

  • allows it to come to like your body temperature

  • and therefore it's active and it works better.

  • I feel like if you just put it on enough and sufficiently

  • you can run right out the door and be protected

  • but put it on thoroughly, put it on with sunglasses, a hat,

  • UV protective clothing is a lifesaver

  • because then you're not using so much sunscreen on your body

  • and then reapply it every 30 to 60 minutes

  • when you're truly out in the sun being athletic

  • or being at the beach which I know you would never do

  • between 10 am and 2:00 PM

  • but you really wanna keep yourself covered and reapply.

  • "Quick question regarding sun cream.

  • "Would an SPF in foundation suffice

  • "or best to have sun cream underneath generally?"

  • So that means do you put on a moisturizer

  • and then sunscreen?

  • Do you put on sunscreen and then a moisturizer

  • or do you put on sunscreen, moisturizer, and then makeup?

  • It gets very confusing.

  • So here's where you wanna simplify your life

  • and just get something that has everything in it.

  • So a tinted SPF 30 is a great moisturizer, sun protection,

  • and makeup base that you can just put on

  • and go out the door.

  • Lilianna B, "Does sunscreen worsen your acne,

  • "cause breakouts, or make acne scars?"

  • And then Jenna says, "Lilianna B chiming in here.

  • "Chemical sunscreens cause a chemical reaction

  • "on the surface of your skin,

  • "so it can be irritating for a lot of people.

  • "Try a zinc or a TD formula."

  • That means titanium dioxide.

  • "They'll be a little whiter at first

  • "but are much gently for skin.

  • "Just be sure to use a serious cleanser

  • "at the end of the day."

  • Okay, all of it's great questions.

  • Acne can definitely get worse with certain sunscreens.

  • Part of it is because some sunscreens

  • that are water resistant are a little bit tacky

  • and they actually kind of occlude or block the skin

  • and that can make your skin break out a little bit,

  • especially like she said, like Jenna said

  • if they have a lot of chemicals in them.

  • There are sunscreens that are just for acne.

  • For example EltaMD Clear has lactic acid in it

  • and the lactic acid exfoliates the skin a little bit

  • and prevents blockage of the skin for your acne

  • and is tinted so it protects your skin.

  • And then when you wash it off at the end of the day,

  • because it's mineral based,

  • it's actually not that hard to get off

  • so you don't need to use any harsh cleansers.

  • So do pick something for acne skin

  • when you're picking your sunscreen.

  • Okay so Apurva Tik.

  • "Can I use sunscreen under eyes "and on eyelids?"

  • Great question, yes you can use sunscreen on your eyelids

  • and around your whole eyelids.

  • I see a lot of skin cancers on the eyelids.

  • I think the best and easiest way

  • is to wear a really big sunglasses

  • as much as you possibly can starting at a very early age.

  • So if you're a mother and you have kids

  • buy them sunscreen, or sunglasses actually that are bigger

  • and cover sort of the outer part of the eye.

  • How much of your body do you need to apply sunscreen to

  • when you go out?

  • And the answer is everywhere that's exposed

  • or that might be exposed as soon as you take off

  • whatever you're planning on taking off.

  • The difference between mineral sun protection

  • and chemical sun protection ingredients

  • are easy to understand.

  • Chemical ingredients absorb the energy from the UV light

  • and that's called photons.

  • So if you imagine like a ping-pong of energy

  • coming from the sky, hitting your skin,

  • it gets captured by the chemical ingredient

  • in your sunscreen, captured and converted to heat

  • so it evaporates right off the top of your skin

  • and doesn't get a chance to go in your skin

  • and cause a hot mutation to your skin cells

  • which could lead to sun damage and skin cancer.

  • The mineral sun protection like zinc and titanium

  • sit there on top of your skin and are like little rocks

  • that are protecting and like bouncing the photon off

  • and they don't get used up in that chemical reaction.

  • So as long as it's there and you've put it on

  • and you've haven't gone swimming

  • or you're not sweating a lot and wiping it off

  • the minerals sit there better

  • and they can block or resist both UVA and UVB.

  • Skin cancer affects men on their backs more often

  • and it affects women on their legs more often

  • and when I'm saying skin cancer

  • I mean the bad kind called melanoma.

  • So men get melanoma on their backs

  • and it peaks at the age of 40.

  • So it's a young person's problem.

  • So definitely protect your back.

  • Don't forget, ask somebody to spray it on for you

  • or just put a shirt on.

  • Women like to have tan legs.

  • It makes us feel svelte and skinnier

  • and all that great stuff

  • but it does lead to skin cancer earlier.

  • And again it's on the legs in women.

  • So protect yourself, wear pants, wear shirts,

  • do sun-protective clothing but if you're gonna be out

  • you need sun protection, sunscreen everywhere.

  • All right let's talk about a heated topic, eye creams.

  • (upbeat percussion music)

  • The next comment is, "Yes, eye creams are a waste of money."

  • (laughs)

  • It's not even a question,

  • it's just like they're a waste of money.

  • Eye creams are wonderful

  • and I think they're a good investment

  • if you have sensitivity around your eyes.

  • Now the question is do you need to spend a lot of money

  • on an eye cream?

  • Can you trust

  • that an eye cream is different from a face cream?

  • The eyes are more sensitive and the skin is more thin

  • and so you don't wanna use something

  • that's like an anti-ager for your face.

  • It has all kinds of alpha hydroxy acids or scrubs

  • or anything in it around your eye

  • 'cause it's just gonna be too strong

  • and cause worse problems.

  • So when in doubt go simple for around the eye.

  • Pick something that's in your budget

  • but does say pH balanced for eyes or eye cream.

  • Next comment from Amanda.

  • "She doesn't even know how to properly apply 'eye cream'

  • "and she wipes her eye cream downward

  • "when it should be upward."

  • Oh, by the way it's "eye cream".

  • "She's dragging down her skin.

  • "I can't believe my eyes.

  • "She's horrible."

  • Okay Amanda. (laughs)

  • I can tell you're really passionate

  • about this eye cream application situation and I get it.

  • Even as a Board Certified Dermatologist

  • I get a little confused by other people saying like

  • you have to use your pinky finger

  • and you have to like dab in a certain particular pattern.

  • I'll be honest, when I put on my eye serum

  • I just go like swipe, swipe, swipe

  • on the upper and lower eyelids over my lashline

  • and I feel so happy when I do that.

  • So it's true, you don't wanna be like scrubbing

  • and rubbing and dragging and pulling on your skin

  • but it doesn't matter what finger you use

  • and it really just is, the key take home is

  • use it on the upper eyelids and the lower eyelids

  • and you should be able to put it right over your lash line