years alongside the various Avis Crocombes. I wore clothing just like that of Mrs Crocombe

ヴィクトリア朝時代の撮影の

in the Victorian Way videos but that clothing was in itself modelled on the very clothing

エイヴィス・クロークンのように 衣装を着たこともありました

that people at the time would have worn and that's what we're going to look at today.

当時の人々が着ていた衣装をモデルにしました

Let's start with the basics: underwear. The first thing that Mrs Crocombe would have put

基本から始めましょう：下着です クロークン夫人は　朝、

on in the morning were her drawers and then her stockings which were held up with garters.

お部屋で　ガーター留めのストッキングをはき

Elastic of course hadn't yet been invented. Then Mrs Crocombe would have put her boots

ゴムはまだ発明されてません クロークン夫人は　堅いブーツに足を通し

on because it's very very hard to put your boots on after you've put your corset on,

コルセットをつけた後に　ブーツをはくことは とっても大変でした

trust me! So here were have boots, and then this which is called a chemise. It essentially

任せて！　ブーツがあります　いわゆる下着と

is a sort of night shirt affair, made out of linen which was very very absorbent so

基本は夜用の下着です　吸水性のある麻で作られ

that all the sweats and all of the various bodily fluids that were inevitably being pumped

汗や　体からでる脂を吸い取ります 台所の熱気もよく通し　風通りがよく

out in the heat of the kitchen would be absorbed by the linen. It was washable, it would take

洗濯可能で　荒い扱いに堪えうる素材です

a lot of hard punishment as well. Then on top of the chemise, as you can see, Mrs Crocombe's

下着のうえに着て　ご覧のように クロークン夫人のコルセットは ヴィクトリア時代の女性たちの鉄板でした

corset, the fundamental foundation garment of the Victorian woman. The corset's construction

コルセットの作りは　簡素なものです

for Mrs Crocombe is fairly simple. If Mrs Crocombe had been Lady Crocombe, or Lady Braybrooke

クロークン夫人が　高貴なクロークン もしくはブレイブルーク奥様であったら

for example, her corset would have changed much much more throughout the decades of the

ヴィクトリア朝時代　何年にわたり 改良され　流行したでしょう

Victorian era, following fashion. Those people like Mrs Crocombe who were below stairs though

クロークン夫人のように　階下の使用人たちは

tended not to shift their figure in line with prevailing fashion quite so much. Down here

ファッションの流行に左右されませんでした

at the front you have a thing called a busk which tends to be of metal and is very very

バスクと呼ばれる前身ごろは 金属の留め金があり　とても頑丈です

tough. This gives you this nice smooth figure at the front, and then you've got whale bone

これは前身ごろの動きを　なめらかにし ぐるっと一周し　鯨の骨で作られてます

all the way around the sides. You can buy plastic substitutes for whale bone, and that's

鯨の骨の代用品である　プラスティック製を買えます

what this one is constructed with. If we turn it round briefly you can see the way it works.

これはプラスティック製です ひっくり返すとわかります

There is a set of laces up the back, these stay laced all the time. And then at the front

後ろは紐で組み上げ　固定されます

you've got these ties, these fasteners. The big advantage of an arrangement like this

前身ごろは紐でしめます 紐留めは　着用の利点です

is that a woman like Mrs Crocombe could have done up her own corset. Naturally Mrs Crocombe

クロークン夫人のような女性は 自分でコルセットをつけるのです

didn't have anyone to help her dress but she could have got into this very quickly and

当然、誰も着付けを手伝ってくれません 素早く着用でき　簡単に支度ができます

easily by herself. Next up we need to add some bulk. The Victorian figure in the 1880s

次に　バルクをつけます １８８０年代のヴィクトリア時代の服装は

was one which had quite a wide hemline, again with working class women the basic figure

裾広がりのあるスカート　働く女性たちの普段着で

didn't change that much throughout a lot of the Victorian period. Crinolines for example

ヴィクトリア時代は変わることがありませんでした

which came in for the upper classes in the 1850s which were big wire cages, were often

１８５０年代は上流階級のための クリノリンは大きなワイヤで作られ

forbidden for use in the kitchens. Mistresses of grand houses didn't want their cooks looking

台所で着ることは禁じられてました　大邸宅の未亡人は料理人たちに着てほしくはなかったのです

like they did. Some women wore many petticoats perhaps starched or with lots of pleats. This

ある女性たちは何層もペチコートをつけ おそらく糊付けし　プリーツを作りました

is a very practical alternative. Our Mrs Crocombe does have to operate in the modern world and

これは実用性のある代用品です クロークン夫人は現代にも通じ

get changed very quickly and do it all by herself often under stressful circumstances,

ストレスのある状況下で　すべて自分で 素早く着付けができる服を着ていたのです

so this is the kind of permissible cheat which women at the time possibly would have used

その当時の女性たちには　許容範囲であり 実用性があり　着用しやすく

and certainly is very very useful when you're interpreting history and food for the public.

公式に歴史と料理を伝えるときに　着用します

You'll note that nearly everything ties up. It's a very practical solution. Buttons burst,

すべてがきっちりとしています 実用的なのです　ボタンのはち切れ

hooks come undone, but a tie like that is very very secure, will stay done up and is

ホックの外れ　結び目がしっかりしてるため たやすくもどすことができます

very easy to do up as well. And more importantly perhaps, at the end of a 14 hour work day

より重要なことは　一日１４時間労働の終わりに

it's very easy to just let it all drop to the floor, spring open your corset and breathe

すべて脱ぎ捨て　コルセットから自由になり

a sigh of relief as you crawl into bed. Once this very simple petticoat is on it's time

ひと息つき　這うようにベットにもぐりこむ

to put the outer layer on: the gown. In houses like this there were not in the 1880s necessarily

とてもシンプルなペチコートは 簡単に上着を重ねられます

uniforms for staff apart from those that appeared in front of guests: housemaids, butlers and

１８８０年代の大邸宅は　賓客の面前のための 制服はありませんでした： 家政婦たち　執事たち　馬丁たち

livery for the footmen. Below stairs in areas like this though where servants were not seen

階下の使用人たちは　人目にふれることなく

it was much more common to have something like a print that perhaps the lady of the

女性でしたら　プリント柄がその家の 使用人であることがわかり

house would give to her servants at Christmas as their Christmas gift to make into their

クリスマスには　上着のしたに クリスマスプレゼントを入れました

gowns. We know that sometimes zones were colour-coded as well. The reason for this was not just

ときどき　色別で認識できます きれいに見えるだけでなく

because it looked pretty, but also so that the senior servants, the butler, the housekeeper

年配の使用人たち　執事たち　家政婦 クロークン夫人のような料理人が

or Mrs Crocombe the cook, could look out of their window and immediately identify any

窓から　使用人の誰がどこで何をし、

member of staff who was where they shouldn't be. This gown does up with a mixture of the

していなのかを判別するためです

Victorian favourite, the hook and eye, and buttons. Because Mrs Crocombe was the cook,

この上着は　ヴィクトリア時代の好み 留め金と　ボタンを反映しています

and therefore of rather higher status than her maids, it also has a level of detail that

クロークン夫人は料理人であり ほかのメイドたちと　格が違います

you might not find if you were to look at the maids' gowns. For example, she has this

メイドのガウンを見ると 細かい作りが違うことがわかります

rather sweet lace collar which could be removed and washed separately. Very very important

レースで取り外し可能な　首まわりの襟があります 本体から分けて　襟のみ洗濯できます

to always think about the practicality of washing. One of the biggest bugbears in women's

洗濯を考えると　とても重要なことです 大きな悩みの種は　ポケットがないのです

fashion today is that things don't have pockets. Well, Mrs Crocombe being a woman of some means

そう、クロークン夫人のドレスには ポケットがありました

has put a pocket in her dress. She might use it for example to keep her spectacles in.

眼鏡を入れていたかもしれません

Finally of course Mrs Crocombe always wears a cap, as indeed did many other women. Certainly

最後にクロークン夫人は　キャップをかぶります 他のメイドたちもです

lower status women would always tie their hair up. Her hair which would have been relatively

下層の女性たちは髪を結んでいました

long would have been centre-parted, taken back behind her ears and then tied in a bun

真ん中分けの　長い髪を耳の後ろに流し 頭の後ろでお団子にしました

at the back of her head. That bun was very important as it meant that the cap would stay

おだんごは　とても大切で帽子の中に収まり ヘアピンできっちと留められました

on with judicious use of a hairpin. Once more, the number of pleats on the cap reflects Mrs

帽子のプリーツは クロークン夫人の　地位を表します

Crocombe's status as the cook. If you were to look at one of the lower maids, they probably

部下のメイドたちのキャップは たくさんのプリーツはありません

wouldn't have quite as many pleats, certainly not as carefully sewn and not as well starched.

縫い目もギャザーもみられません

The final thing Mrs Crocombe needs is something all cooks keep in their belts at all times

最終的に　クロークン夫人は　台所でいつも 調理に必要な小道具をもつ必要があります：

in the kitchen: a handy cloth, again made of absorbent linen and again very washable.

何度も洗濯可能な　麻の布巾

It's absolutely vital in a 19th century kitchen like this because these cloths not only act

１９世紀の調理場では　必要不可欠であり 上流階級のハンカチだけではないのです

as general wiper-uppers and hand towels, but also as oven gloves. It's doubly vital when

かまど用の手袋として使われました

working as our Mrs Crocombe does in an environment which is conserved like this. Spills of red

クロークン夫人がしたように

wine on the floor or things that are inappropriate on surfaces need to be wiped up as quickly

赤いワインがこぼれたときは さっと拭ける吸水性は重要です

as possible, so from a practical point of view a cloth like this is vital because it

実用性のある布は不可欠です

means that smears of choc-ices on furniture and cherries up the wall can be removed as

家具についた　氷菓の色　 壁についた　さくらんぼの色をできるだけ取ることは

soon as possible so that we can continue to preserve this Victorian kitchen for future

ビクトリア時代の台所を　次世代のために保存します

generations. Excellent. Mrs Crocombe is dressed and ready to go!

素晴らしいです クロークン夫人は着付けをし　準備できてます！