You already filmed this before you know it, huh?

What's up, guys?

Just two cents here.

And today we're gonna, with all the popularity of rise and thread, refer.

And I think a lot of people were gonna be buying this processor.

I kind of wanted to go over a few tips and tricks things to kind of keep in mind when building with your thread Ripper system.

Because it's quite a bit different then your standard conventional CPU installations and some things to think about.

So today I just kind of want to go through some of the basics for the first time.

Threat River Builder to kind of be comfortable with doing this because, like, I already said, I'm repeating myself now It's different videos Rusty by Kim Rod and the Cable wad configuration.

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So we'll start with the motherboard and the socket, because this is one of the first major differences with Third, Gen.

Risen and Dr Pepper probably say rising more than once.

But that's fine.

So the socket, it's brand new.

It's the tr X 40 and although it might look exactly like a next 3 99 socket wherever they called it in the past, it is quite a bit different.

They repurposed a lot of the pins and the layout in terms of what does what on each pin.

So although you might be able to take a first and second Gen risin and slip it right in here and lock it down, it is not the same.

So that's kind of said in the sense that if you've adopted first or second General Isen with hopes of being forward compatible.

You're not that kind of sex.

So it means if you want to avenge their generalized and you need a new motherboard to go along with it.

So don't be fooled by the fact that it looks the same.

It's quite a bit different.

So one of the things that's different with Red Ripper going all the way back to win it first launched this happened is the fact that the pins are basically LG and what that means is that the pins are on the motherboard, not on the processor like you might be used to with standard Amy processor.

So this is much more Intel esque, if you will.

So what that means is you obviously need to have an awful lot of care when dealing with the socket, something I'm not really known for care.

So what's included with the CPU itself is also this torque wrench.

Now, this is the most people might look at this just go.

Oh, that's just a T 15 or whatever it is.

No, this actually has a spring loaded torque wrench built into the head right here so that it will pop and let you know when the tension is proper.

Because what's different about thread rumor versus other CPU platforms is the fact that it is tension based on justice to make sure everything's held down properly against all the pins.

So if you take a regular wrench and over tighten it, then you can not only break the screw head off or break the screw entirely.

You could over torque it in various areas, make it kind of tweak and bend, and then certain pins won't touch, and that will show up in weird, even get it to boot.

But you don't have all the pins touching.

You might not get all your memory channels to show up somewhere.

Pizza Express may not work.

You might just have instability.

So that's why getting the torque down and getting the mountain proper to begin with is the first battle to win with Red River.

Now, when you release this top screw right here.

It's actually labeled right on the motherboard, which order to close in which order to open.

So it's just 123 to close or 321 toe open.

In this case, when it's new out of the box, it just has this one screw holding it down.

It's spring loaded, so that'll pop up.

You got these blue tabs right here that you can pull up for the actual retention bracket itself.

There we go.

So these two blue pins will cause this metal bracket, which is also spring loaded here to just sort of latch down onto the motherboard so you could pull those up.

And then what you'll see here is that there is this clear sort of a plastic tray Now inputting the CPU inside the retention bracket, You notice that there's these rails on the side of it that match the clear piece that we just took out.

So this is replacing this that you just removed.

You want to make sure that they are inside the actual rail and that they're not popping out.

They have a tendency to kind of want to do weird stuff.

Sometimes I'm trying to get pop out.

This one doesn't actually want to, but it should slide down smoothly.

And then we get to the bottom.

It should click in just like that.

And then when you push it down, push down on the blue tabs, not on the CPU on the Blue tabs because of the fact that that was pushing on the CPU could make it pop out of its actual orange bracket there.

But before you do that, you need to remove the actual socket cover.

This is what's protecting 9000 pins that exist underneath this.

There's not really 9000 but there's a lot of things.

You see two parts on the cover here, where it's labeled.

Remove.

Squeeze that Pull it straight up.

Be careful.

Don't drop anything here.

If you do, you're guaranteed to damage and destroy your socket, which means it won't work.

Push this down and pushed down on the two blue tabs.

Now it's clicked in there, and now we're ready to actually talk down the lid.

Now, this is the part that a lot of people get wrong.

People just go out.

What's it matter?

Just torque it in whatever order you want or don't talk it all.

Why guarantee?

If you don't, it's not going to boot.

So taking your thread ripper torque wrench that comes with your CPU start at number one.

You might to push it down.

There you go.

Get the threats started, then you're gonna tighten it until the actual torque wrench pops.

Or don't make it pop out of this.

Really, I just did but do it until it clicks just like that.

So I've seen videos where people will click it and then just keep going and trust me, that is bad.

You don't want to do that.

So it's spring loaded to the right tension, and then you move on to number two and repeat for two and three.

So that's how to properly get your socket and your CPU mounted down so that you have a better chance of getting this actually boot the first time.

The most common thing you see with Red Rippers people complaining about a no post or it won't boot for memory problems.

It's almost always due to the attention of mounting it down.

So I wanted to kind of a quick P ece, at least on the installation of a threat to proceed Pew.

Although this is the same for first and second Jen, because I feel like now a lot of people are probably going to adopt this, given its value over Intel, when it comes to things like computing and multi threaded workloads.

So the other thing we're going to talk about right now is cooling because that's something else that I feel like we need to discuss because included with all threat of receive use.

Is this a Sitek bracket?

This ace detect racket is included the CPU, because when the tr four and now the TR X 40 socket came out there, weren't ready really any cooler options designed to meet the screw spacing of these post right here.

So a standard AM four would not work, and there was nothing Prior to Spectra perso.

There were very little cooler options.

It doesn't come in the box cooler, and it doesn't come in the air cooler as you can see by them, including an ace detect bracket.

They're recommending water cooling, which makes sense due to the core density in the heat that these are capable of generating.

However, what I'd like to point out is why I don't recommend using this thread.

Rippers layout is kind of unique.

It's got a Iot controller in the center, and then it's got chip.

Let's four of them all around the outside.

Well, technically, there's more so in the middle.

But They are a perimeter based mounting mechanism where Intel is very central.

It's right in the middle of the heat hs of the internal, the integrated heat spreader.

So this metal piece on top, which I'm kind of polishing right now because your fingerprint on it, it's sauder down to the dies, and it's designed to absorb the heat and spread it over a larger area, making it easier and more efficient to dissipate the heat to get the best cooling.

Even with an I.

H.

S, it makes sense to get direct contact of thermal pace and the cooler directly on top of, in this case, the chip.

Let's and Io die on there.

So even though you may not get corner to corner coverage on a lot of options, it's still important to try and get much coverage as possible.

I don't recommend a Sitek coolers and let me show you why.

So this is an NZX ta, a water cooler with pre applied thermal paste with an ace, a tech style pump.

So basically, this is a standard a Iot that would work with pretty much any processor or any platform on the market, with the exception of thread Ripper, in my opinion, And I just kind of wanted to do this.

P s a because I want people to get the most out of their system.

Now, I'm not saying that by using this you'd be overheating your system.

It's very unlikely.

But what I'm saying is that to get the most out of thread Ripper and if you even want to have any chances of over clocking it, then you want to get the best coverage possible.

So if you look at the pre applied dye versus the size of the socket as it ISS, you can kind of see we're not gonna be getting much of a contact patch on the actual CP.

I just itself.

So me go ahead and install the bracket.

Quick lineup the screws.

It's important.

Remember that although these screws do slide and move on this bracket, um, they are different wits at the bottom and at the top.

So it does matter which way you put it, just like a putting a wheel on a car.

I don't talk each side all the way down.

I just kind of keep going in a crisscross pattern until the threads bought him out, you could bottom out the threads.

This is going to stop before any damage would happen.

So I'm even gonna kind of help things along here by sort of squishing it because, you know, one thing that does happen when you warm up thermal paces, it does tend to spread a little bit more.

So I want that too kind of stay in the back of your mind right now.

But the pattern and I'm going to show you, uh, will expand slightly after the thermal pace has burned in.

So let me go ahead and take this off.

Now I would actually recommend getting a big air cooler, something like a knock to, uh, or a big be quiet, like a dark rock or something like that, because you'll probably get better cooling with an air cooler that touches Maura viajes than a water cooler that only touches that much of it.

There is coverage.

It is touching the Ioan.

It's touching pretty much most of the chip.

Let's.

But when you have an eye hs and it's spreading all of the heat across the I guess anywhere you're not making contact with the thermal paste and the cooler is heat that's just sitting there doing nothing.

And the whole idea of your cooler is to take that heat and move it away.

So if you could take total coverage of the die like we did on Phil's new editing rig by getting the water block, that was the actual size of the entire die, which is what we have.

We're seeing amazing temperatures over clocked reaching 60.

See what 60.

See when you entered the last video 62 tops while over clocked and rendering our content and your knock gonna get it with coverage like that.

So, in my opinion, although they give you a solution that would get you up and running, this is not going to get you optimum results.

Now, if you have no choice but to use your a Iot with the bracket that came with a few like Jay, I'm not gonna run out and buy a custom water cooling stuff.

And I'm not gonna spend more than $100 on an air cooler, which is what it would cost to get a good buck to it, like in h d 14 or or a dark rock pro um, I would recommend at least changing out your thermal pace.

Now, here's the thing.

Like I said, you're not gonna get full coverage with this, But the circle that was on here when we showed the Pre Applied was only the very center part.

But we do want to at least try and maybe increase the effectiveness of our Tim or a thermal interface material by using some sort of a reputable brand.

What I'll do is I'm just going to make I don't know.

I don't have a lot in this, too, but I'm just gonna make sort of a X right here, right in the center of worry.

No, those chip, let's and stuff are because what I want to do right now is I want to see if we can get a better coverage.

Why, using a softer, better thermal compound, replacing the pre applied stuff any time I've used a iose, I've always pre applied my own stuff or applied my own stuff anyway and taking up the pre applied I just feel like it's a better quality thermal paste.

Um, when I use things like even the UK Echo therm or the gallant extreme or the kingpin stuff.

You don't want to apply thermal paste on top of thermal pay special in two different compounds.

You definitely want to use isopropyl alcohol and a soft rag and something.

Let free to remove it.

See, Look at that.

That's better.