From what I've radium reviews, I thought, Why?

No, as it may be something that a lot of you decide to up for if you want to put together a brand new AMG based PC, I'm also gonna be throwing in a couple of use deals that I got to make this build possible as well.

So without further ado, let's get into it and talk about what I've put together.

So I thought we'd start with the core components.

Here we have the rise and 5 36 116 gig's off vengeance L P X 3200 megahertz DDR for onda bio star racing be 3 50 e t.

To which will need a bios flash much like a lot of old bolt.

Now, this was relatively cheap.

And to flash the bios, all I did was go to the bio StarSight download the latest version off the bio software on I didn't need a cheap AMG CPU.

In order to get it to boot in the first place, I used an Athlon in this motherboard.

I booted up into windows, downloaded this software here, put it on a USB drive and then flash the bios so that it was compatible with the new rising 3000 chips.

That's something that's unavoidable at this moment.

Of course, you can just purchase a cheap Athlon ap you something like that.

Flash the virus and then send that chip back.

Now we're gonna put the motherboard bundle together outside of the case simply for convenience sake.

You want to be very careful with am foresee, be used much like previous generation aim DCP use because of the pins, they can be bent very easily.

Now the first thing to do is lift the little retention handle on the motherboard here and check that the little gold arrow on the process er itself right in the top left corner.

If my camera wants to focus lines up with the little arrow on the motherboard because there is only one way that the CPU will go in and work.

If you try and force it in, you may end up, as I say, damaging some of the very sensitive pins.

This just drops in there like so, and then you can push the handle down.

Now we need to install the cooler, and to do that we have to remove these brackets, which would be suited to an Athlon processor and heat sink.

But for the rise in, we need to remove the four screws here and remove the brackets.

That would hold an old style aim de cooler in place again.

This is very easy to do.

Just make sure you put these to one side and keep them safe, just in case you ever want to sell your motherboard on and have to reinstall.

These little things were still going to need to keep this little bracket underneath so that we can install the AM four heat sink on top of the 3600 process.

Er, this just goes back under here.

Andi, the heat sink screws back onto it.

Of course, these heat sinks come with pre applied thermal paste.

I recommend you install it.

The same way around as I'm doing with the aim, the writing at the back simply so it doesn't block the Ram channels here.

Now, once you've done that, it takes four screws toe.

Hold this down.

I like to hold it like this so that I'm getting a good connection between the heat sink on the bracket underneath, but you can do it on a flat, solid surface as well.

This is just the way I've always done things, and you'll find that once you've built a PC or maybe a couple of PCs, you'll develop your own habits, which you may prefer to employ.

When you're putting together a system, ask anyone, and they'll all have their own unique method off doing certain things.

But as long as the PC works at the end of the build, well, you can't really do anything wrong.

Just don't build your PC underwater and you'll be fine.

Just check that that sits.

Flash with the board underneath.

And don't forget to plug in the cable, of course, because otherwise your PC will immediately overheat and switch off.

All right, so the next thing we're gonna do is install the Ram modules here we've got to eight gig sticks of vengeance L P X.

This is simple.

Just unclipped the well clips on the motherboard on push these down until the clips click.

That's a bit of a tongue twister.

Next up, we're gonna prepare the case.

I've got a little thermal take versus H 15 Micro 80 ex enclosure here, a relatively treat case yet one that's still features more than enough space inside.

For all of today's components, though, if you want slightly better air flow, then I'd suggest getting something bigger.

Don't forget to keep these screws safe and remember to make sure that the motherboard standoffs are already in place.

If not, then they'll be included in a little bag.

Should you buy a brand new case, it's that important to make sure that they line up with the holes on your motherboard before putting the board in the case itself.

I'm also going to remove these rear fan here because this will only get in the way as we try to install our back plate in a minute.

Usually, cases will include one fan.

I can't speak for the quality of all of them, but the one here seems to be quite good, will just remove this and put it aside for later.

Next up, we need to put the back play in on.

This is again very simple.

Just make sure it's the right way round.

All it does is clipping to place here.

It's a relatively simple process in the case with this back play.

I had a few of these little guards to remove before we could put the motherboard in the case.

Otherwise, it won't sit flush and you won't be able to use all of the connectors.

These are so flimsy.

I'm surprised I haven't just fallen off in the box.

All you do is sort of bend them upwards on, remove them.

You can dispose of them how you see fit, but it's important that you do.

So if you're bald, has any of these attached to the back plate?

I'm now gonna get these wires out of the way, so we've got a little more room to work with inside the case here on, I'm going to remove the other side panel just to make cable management a little bit easier.

You don't have to do this, but I'd recommend it if you want to run a few of the cables around the back.

As you can see, this isn't the most cable management friendly case in the world.

But it is cheap, and it should do the drop.

Next up.

We're gonna put the motherboard in place.

We're gonna sitting on top of those aforementioned standoffs here.

And now that we've removed the protective plates at the back, those little silver things, this should fit in here just fine.

Now the motherboard will screw down with these little screws that should be included with your new case.

This generally takes about six screws to secure your board.

At least it does with micro 80 ex versions like the bio start one here have sped up the process a little bit because watching someone screw, I'm gonna stop that sentence right there.

But, yeah, some parts are boring to watch, especially when I'm sure most of you guys are interested in the core components off this set up.

This pesky screw here by the Ram slots is always a pain, but with a little persistence and perhaps a smaller screwdriver should be secured with relative ease.

Right.

So let's install everything else.

And next up is the sea Sonic Focus plus 550.

What ps you?

The fact that this was marked down due to being so called open box from its £75 recommended retail price down to 45 made it all the more tempting to now.

There were a few issues with this when it first came out with the GPO.

Amusing.

But if you purchased it since January of 2018 then things should now be fine.

So once that's all screwed in there, we can move on to removing this hard drive and SST enclosure.

If you're just installing an SST in this system, then you could leave this out entirely as there are other mounting points around this PC.

But I'll be adding a hard drive back in.

Then put these cables around the back for better cable management, and it was time to attach all the necessary cables to R C Sonic ps.

You here starting with the power cable.

Now, if you don't have a module pierce you.

This process is obviously a lot more simple.

You've just got to try and work out where you want things in order to maintain the best airflow and to get things as neat as possible.

Of course, you don't have to do any cable management.

You can just have your wires running all over the place if you want.

I've tried to keep things relatively neat here for the time being, but it's probably something I'll go back and try and improve a little bit more after I've put this PC together and used it for a couple of weeks.

So next up, we're plugging in the main CPU power connector here, followed by the sat up power cable.

We don't need to plug it in at the other end just yet.

We're just attaching everything to the power supply as required on.

We could move all of the cables out of the way for later last ago.

In is the cable that will connect our GPU to the P.

S.

You were gonna attach the cables that we put around the back earlier, including the HD audio USB two on USB three headers.

It's a little bit of a tight squeeze down here in regards to the U.

S.

B two and USB three headers, and I don't think this board is particularly well designed in that regard.

As you can see, it's quite tight here squeezing the USB three headed next to the US beat to, But I have started to do a little bit of cable management, as you can see now for the front panel connectors.

Usually this is quite fiddly, but more and more manufacturers are starting to label the motherboards.

Let me show you here.

All you have to do is line the name on the connector up with the motherboard.

See, for example, it says HD led and power switch, et cetera.

What you have to do is just run the appropriate cable to the appropriate slot, and you should be good to go almost impossible to film because it's so fiddly.

But with the wires in place, I'm going to move on to the hard driving closure.

Now I'm going to install an SST on dhe traditional hard drive in here.

This is 240 g kinks then.

The reason for that is because I like quick access to my drives because I'm always moving them around benchmarking different things, et cetera.

But you can install them however you wish.

I've installed the SSD to the top of the enclosure here with a couple of screws, and I'm gonna put this back in place.

Now we know that the cables on obstructing it on dhe next up, we need to put the hard disk drive back in place.

I'm using a one terabyte western digital, my usual drive with all my games.

And in the case, we did get some of these little brackets as well.

This won't be the neatest configuration in the world, but as I say, this is for ease of access.

I like to be able to unplug my drive quickly, get it out the front there without needing to root around the back of the case on setting things up like this is perfect for me.

But as I say, feel free to do things.

How you wish I might go back and adjust these cables a little later on with the power connected to the drives, it's time to attach the satyr cables from the motherboard to the drives as well, starting with the hard disk drive at the bottom.

This again is a relatively simple process.

Just plug one end into the drive on the other into the appropriate motherboard.

Head is This has four Satur connectors here, so there is plenty of room for upgrade in the future as well as another drive.

Bay here will then connect the SSD and last but not least, install the graphics card.

I've gone with an M s I.

Vega 56 Air Boost edition.

The reason I've gone for a Vega 56 is because since the release of the 5700 and XT, prices of these have started to go down on the driver.

Support has really improved.

For example, when this first came out, they were closer in performance to a 10 70.

But now they sit quite close to a 10 80 there around 8 to 9% slow on average.

But considering the price you confined these four, that's really not bad.

I paid £190 for this one used, which I think was a pretty decent deal.

It does have a blow a style called her on it.

So it may run a little louder than other aftermarket cards, but I can't complain for the price.

Now we're stalling the graphics card.

It's simple.

Just remove a couple off the back plates.

Insert the card in the piece or express slop.

Onda attach the power connector.

In this case, it requires two aping connectors because it is what professionals would call a juicy card will have finished things off by reinstalling that rear fan, which is very important to remember due to air flow.

We don't want our system to get too hot once we have the side panel back on.

And with that done, there's just one final step.

Hang on, what's happened here?

So what can the rise in 5 36 100 Vega 56 combo do?

Well, why don't we find that out right now?

Now?

I wasn't quite sure what to expect when initially firing up soon about John 15.

But it's safe to say the results shocked me a little bit.

1567 is certainly a world away from my previous I 5 84 100 In fact, it left in the dust a little bit, so I run a few modern and popular titles at both 10 80 p and 14 40 p with the ultra settings and safe to say this PC, it really is very capable.

I think it's a fantastic mid range set up when it comes to tackling the latest Tripoli releases now the process, or actually took a little bit of a back seat relaxing in a lot of these games.

While the vaguer 56 did hit 99 100% usage, that just means that it's being utilized to its full potential on the CPU could easily be paired with something more powerful.

So if you've got a card in mind any card, don't hesitate to pair it with the 3600 here, as it really will do a fantastic job.

As we make our way through these games, you'll see that this system is ideal for ultra settings here.