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  • I think the passion, you really need it to create something on a particular level.

  • You need to give everything from yourself in there and that's the difference I think.

  • Bespoke means for me, that I discuss really with the client what he wants.

  • You have ideas here, you can see different materials, different models.

  • It's very important to listen.

  • Nowadays, many people don't listen anymore.

  • The last is really the copy of your foot on which we create the shoe.

  • But nobody shows you how to make a last, really, so you have to train it by yourself,

  • and to get the feeling by yourself, how you should do it.

  • You have certain measurements from the foot, but the feeling of the client is always different.

  • I love using leather because you get this particular different touches.

  • What I appreciate so much from this tannery is they use a Swiss calf.

  • Maybe it's because it's cold and these animals live on a very high level in the mountains.

  • It's always a cow, but cows are also different.

  • I think it's something which you can wear for a long time and the leather

  • the more you wear it, it really gets more life I think.

  • I will draw the model from the client.

  • This drawing, I will translate then on a flat paper model, which I put on the leather, then

  • we sew it together.

  • From there, we start creating really the shoe.

  • I think the handcraft and this concentration of different craftmanships in Florence is

  • really coming up from the Medici family.

  • If it's a jeweler or if it's a painter, or a sculpture maker, they've always tried to

  • get the best artisans in town.

  • The upper will be nailed and pulled over the last.

  • I will start sewing with the linen thread, which is made waterproofed with wax.

  • When you stitch you have two threads which go into the same hole and as you pull,

  • the wax goes hot, it will seal together, so the water can't go through.

  • This is a very particular and very old process.

  • It's very rare to be a woman in this shoemaking world.

  • When I started, everybody looked at me and said, this lady is going to close down in

  • a year.

  • A woman in a man's job, it's not going to work.

  • Now, they all proud in this area that I'm still here.

  • We fill in the wooden shank and back support because that's the part under the curve of

  • your foot, which will not be bent so it has to be supportive and stiff.

  • The front part we will fill with cork.

  • This is to give you a cushion effect, as you bend it the whole time it's important to have

  • it soft.

  • We apply the sole.

  • We will glue it on and afterwards make a channel.

  • We will stitch the welt and the leather sole together through the channel so it gets more

  • the shape of a shoe and you see it more as a finished product.

  • When we work normally in the workshop, it's a very calm feeling.

  • We are in a meditation, because you are so concentrated on what you do.

  • You can feel that all of a sudden, the energy comes down.

  • Everybody's concentrated on his particular step.

  • The last big step to put on is the heel, which will be built out of single layers of leather.

  • We will glue them and nail them on, and then cut them in shape.

  • At the end, we pass some glass, sanding it.

  • And then burn it with hot irons, so all the pores are going to be completely closed up.

  • The last step is to shine the whole shoe.

  • And then we can pull out the last and then the client can wear it.

  • If you count the hours, we would work around three weeks on one pair of shoes.

  • When I see a finished shoe and the client really tries it on, it's always the moment

  • of reality and relief, if it really fits well.

  • When this person is really happy, you can just see in their eyes without explaining

  • that it's the best feeling ever.

  • I think a shoe is more than an object.

  • A shoe really reflects the person who is wearing it.

  • The leather they choose, the color they choose, and how they wear it.

  • Because it's not just the pair in the beginning, it's the pair over many, many years.

I think the passion, you really need it to create something on a particular level.

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B1 中級

オーダーメイドのイタリアンレザーシューズはどのように作られているか (How Bespoke Italian Leather Shoes Are Made)

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    林宜悉 に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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