字幕表 動画を再生する 英語字幕をプリント We're at rocky neck State Park on a very cold morning to talk about how to photograph flying birds Chelsea tell them about shutter speed the first thing you want to think about is your shutter speed you can start at about 1 Mm, and I like to either have my settings on shutter priority so I can quickly switch shutter speeds or Manual mode with auto ISO for the same reason because I know we're talking about shooting flying birds But sometimes they perch and that can make a good shot too, so you'll start at 1 mm of a second And that's usually good for any smooth flying bird not doing too much crazy movement once you get into a bird That's smaller and diving like a Kingfisher You might want to bump it up You might also find that if you have a really high resolution camera it Introduces more camera shake or motion blur so you might have to bump up the shutter speed for that too But a little bit of trial and error goes a long way Zoom in 1 to 1 to see if there's any kind of shake or blur and then if there is just up your shutter speed a bit a Good feature to know how to use is exposure compensation you always want your subject to be the thing that is exposed Properly, so if you have a very bright white bird Let's say an Egret you want to put your exposure compensation Down so that you're not blowing out the highlights and the feathers if your shootings Said that the animal is backlit or the sky is very bright You can also put your exposure compensation up so that your camera isn't exposing for the bright background instead of your subject you can Experiment by taking pictures first and then exposing it up and down and see what works for you You might want to take a moment while you're shooting to check your histogram make sure you're not clipping any highlights on your subject Don't you decide to poop I Find that the lighting on your subject can make or break your picture I typically try to shoot with my back to the Sun so that my subject is lit up But that doesn't always work out birds typically take off into the wind And the Sun can be in a different direction So you can't always have it perfect another thing is overcast days can kind of make your subject look soft But I tend to just go out and shoot anyway. You never know what you're gonna get if you can choose perfect conditions I love the golden hour, and I like to have to bat my back to the Sun Right now. There's some really beautiful soft light on this Hawk, and he's looking right into it And so we're getting some really nice pictures where his eyes are nice lately when I shoot I tend to shoot raw plus JPEG and when I say that I mean I shoot raw to my faster card and JPEG to my slower card raw is easier to bring out the details when you're editing and post JPEG is a little more cemented, but there's still You still have some ability to edit your picture or bring up the shadows bring down the highlights just not as drastically I don't tend to have buffering camp problems with my camera but I might run into that issue if I'm getting really fast action like a bird diving for a fish if that's a problem for you If you feel like you're missing shots because you're filling your buffer Then you might want to consider switching to JPEG that will allow you to get more shots before your buffer is full But like I said you might not be able to recover those shadows or highlights as easily So you kind of have to decide for yourself? Which works best for you? Are you missing that crucial shot because your buffer is filling you can consider JPEG if it's just fine like me shoot raw or raw plus JPEG For my eye, so I'm pretty much always in auto ISO And I know you're gonna get a lot of people saying they like to meter the scene once and then just use manual ISO But I just haven't found that that works for me. I find that especially with flying birds They might fly from full Sun into the shade and then your exposure will change drastically And I know maybe you're super smart and super fast and you can do that while the bird is flying but for me I'd rather let the camera do it because it can do it multiple times per second other things cannot change your overall exposure that require me to use auto ISO like the Sun moving behind the cloud can change the exposure by two four stops even on an overcast day where the lighting seems even The Sun will move from patches of really thick clouds to thin clouds And you might see the exposure changed by a full stop even on a clear day over the course of 15 minutes The sun's usual path will change the exposure by maybe a third of a stop so for me I've used an auto exposure all the time Focusing is super important All your settings don't matter at all if the bird is out of focus so of course for a flying burger and continuous focusing mode for a bird that's flying against a Cluttered background like they're flying against the background of the trees or the water I use a single autofocus point and I do my very best to keep it on the bird Now on the Nikon d5 and the nikon d 500 I find the 3d tracking Works well enough that i'll use it to attract the bird isn't moves across the frame on the da 50 and pretty much every other camera in the world I end up just using a single fixed Autofocus point it is really hard to keep that focusing point on a bird with a big telephoto lens though especially when it's handheld it Just takes practice now if the bird is against a clear sky That's great news because I can just use all the autofocus points and that way as the Verdon meanders through the frame the camera is Gonna track it and keep it in focus I am a back button focused person we have a video on that if you aren't familiar now some of the latest cameras like the Canon five years are the Canon 5d Mark for the D 500 D 5 D 850 and the Sony 89 and the Sony a7r 3 they Allow you to buttons that you can use for back button focus and I program one of them to do a single Autofocus point and the other one to do all auto focus points that way if I'm tracking a flying bird And it goes from a crowded background Or I want the single autofocus point I'll hit the AF on button that does Single autofocus point if it moves into the clear sky I can make my life easier by hitting the other autofocus button and tracking all the autofocus points check our Tutorials for detailed information on how to configure back button focus for your camera if this video helped you out you can subscribe down below And also hit that notification bell. That's pretty crucial so that you know about our next video You can also learn more about wildlife photography by checking out our book stunning digital photography specifically chapter 8 It's $9.99 for the e-book, and it comes with 14 hours of video. Thanks so much Unbelievable Tony Tony I Heard that the D 850 has 4k video. Did you read about that? Would you recommend people buy that one Tony do your puns make you think I'm low real birch Son of a birch Are you leaving me because of the pun are you leaving because of the puns bye
B1 中級 米 飛ぶ鳥の写真の撮り方 (How to Photograph Flying Birds) 14 1 NeoTsai に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日 シェア シェア 保存 報告 動画の中の単語