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  • Hello, everyone! This is Lomi, and today I'll be showing you how to make a t-shirt pattern for a doll using

  • measurements. Since I'll be showing you how to measure a doll for it, there will be doll nudity, so

  • if you aren't comfortable with that, you may want to watch a different video.

  • So for this project, you'll need a pencil, a ruler, a measuring tape, and some paper.

  • You'll also need a doll to measure. For this, I'll use my new Mystic Kids Lillian, since I

  • haven't finished any patterns for her yet.

  • Since the sizing is so small, I'm measuring in centimeters.

  • The first measurement to take is the width of the shoulders.

  • Measure across the doll's back, from shoulder top to shoulder top.

  • In dolls, it works best to measure from the middle of the top of each arm.

  • For me, this is 7 centimeters.

  • Next, measure around the fullest part of the doll's chest.

  • For me, this is 19 centimeters.

  • Then, measure around the neck.

  • You don't want your measuring tape to be right against the doll's neck unless that's where

  • you want the collar to rest. Instead, loosen it just a bit.

  • I add a centimeter to mine, so I get eight centimeters.

  • Next, determine the length of the shirt.

  • If you're going off company webpage measurements, you can use the arm length for a good standard.

  • Otherwise, go over the fullest part of the chest.

  • I'll use 13 centimeters.

  • Last time I tried making a pattern for a slim mini, I wasn't happy with the length

  • of the sleeve, so I double check what I used.

  • For my sleeve length this time, I'll use 4 centimeters.

  • The last measurement to take is for the sleeve width.

  • You can go around the doll's arm if you want, but it's usually better to measure the hand

  • instead to be sure it will slide on over their fingers.

  • I'll go with 8 centimeters for this.

  • Now you'll want to divide your measurements to get the measurements we'll be drawing with.

  • Divide the shoulder measurements in half.

  • Divide the chest measurement by four.

  • 4.75 centimeters is hard to measure, so I round up to 4.8.

  • Divide the neck measurements by four as well.

  • Then divide the sleeve width in half.

  • Now it's time to draw our patterns. We'll start with the back.

  • Begin by drawing a right angle corner.

  • I actually don't have a right angle ruler, so I trace around an index card to start my lines.

  • Then we'll extend the side line until it's the length we want our shirt to be, so for

  • me, that's 13 centimeters. Whoops, that's not in frame, is it?

  • Next, measure from the corner and mark one quarter of your neck measurement on the top line.

  • This is two centimeters for me.

  • Also on the top line, measure from the corner, and mark half of your shoulder measurement.

  • On mine, that's 3 and a half centimeters.

  • On this piece, we create the curve of the neck by drawing a line up from the neck marker.

  • In human pattern making, we'd raise it based on standard sizes, such as large or medium.

  • There's no such thing as a standard size BJD, but you can get close by going off your doll's

  • overall scale.

  • For mini and YoSD dolls, I've found half a centimeter works well.

  • For SD, 7 millimeters works well, and for 70CM dolls, I use one centimeter.

  • For anything smaller than YoSD, it only needs to be two or three millimeters.

  • Once you've raised the neck line according to your doll's size, connect this new line

  • to the shoulder width mark to create the shoulder slope. Then round the neckline.

  • You can freehand it, or use a French curve if you have one.

  • Now we'll create the curve for the sleeve.

  • From the top line, measure down the side and mark one half your sleeve width measurement.

  • This is 4 centimeters for me.

  • Using an index card or a right angle ruler, line up the shoulder mark and this new mark

  • on the side, then close the square to create a sleeve edge and begin the chest line.

  • Measuring out from the side line, extend the horizontal chest line to one quarter your chest measurement.

  • For me, this is 4.8 centimeters.

  • From the end of this line, we can close the side and bottom to create the lower part of

  • this pattern piece.

  • Round out the bottom of the sleeve hole using a French curve, or just freehand it.

  • Now our back piece is done.

  • I label it and trace the edges with a marker so they'll be easier to follow.

  • Now we'll draw the front piece. Oh, I bumped the camera.

  • I just built this overhead camera mount and I'm not used to it yet, I'm sorry.

  • Okay. To draw the front piece, we'll start the same way.

  • Create a right angle in a mirror image of what you made before.

  • So if you drew a left corner before, like me, you'll draw a right corner now.

  • Once again, extend the side line to the length you want for your shirt.

  • 13 centimeters for me.

  • Then on the top line, mark one quarter of your neck measurement, and one half of your

  • shoulder measurement. Two and three and a half centimeters for me, respectively.

  • Now, to create the neckline on the front, you'll measure down the side line and mark

  • one quarter of the neck measurement on the side to create a nice rounded front neck.

  • Again, you can create the rounded curve freehanded, or with a curve ruler.

  • Next, mark one half of the sleeve width on the side line.

  • Just like on the back piece, connect this mark to the shoulder mark with a right angle.

  • Then extend the chest line to one quarter of your chest measurement, close the side

  • and bottom of the pattern, and round the bottom of the sleeve hole.

  • The sleeve hole is actually called an armscye, but I've never heard anyone say that.

  • To finish the front, we need to create a shoulder slope here as well.

  • But instead of measuring up from the neckline, we're going to bring it down at the sleeve edge.

  • Half a centimeter again, since this is for a mini.

  • Draw the shoulder slope and now the front piece is done.

  • When you cut one of these with the edge on a fold, it'll give you a perfect front.

  • Before you cut anything out, make sure the shoulder slope is the same width.

  • Then we'll make the sleeve, so cut out the back and line it up against the front piece

  • with the shoulders together.

  • Before making the sleeve, it's a good idea to measure along the edge of the sleeve hole

  • to be sure it's close to the measurement you took for your sleeve width.

  • It usually grows a little.

  • Instead of 8 centimeters, mine's 8.5.

  • That's fine, because our sleeve will grow just a little too, when we add the curve to

  • the top of the pattern piece.

  • I write down this measurement so I don't forget what my finished piece will be.

  • Just like the other two pieces, start with a right angle.

  • Like the shoulder slope, this depends on standard sizing for human patterns.

  • For dolls, it works best if it's based off your doll's overall size.

  • For minis, I use one centimeter.

  • For SD I use one and a half, and for YoSD I use half a centimeter.

  • So, working for a mini, I mark one centimeter on the top line.

  • Then I extend this line downward, parallel to the side line.

  • This will be where we create our shoulder curve.

  • On the top line, mark your desired sleeve length, and draw a line down, parallel to the others.

  • Instead of marking your sleeve width on the side line, begin at the corner and measure

  • at a diagonal down to the second line.

  • You'll mark this with half your sleeve width.

  • For me, that's four centimeters.

  • So I draw an angled four centimeter line to connect these two lines.

  • Then I close the side of the sleeve.

  • If you want to taper the bottom of your sleeve, you can.

  • Now we'll curve the top of the sleeve.

  • Put a mark around the halfway point.

  • You'll curve down from the top corner to this middle point, then curve the opposite direction

  • from the middle point to the side of the sleeve.

  • If you measure the new curved line, it should be the same as the size of your sleeve hole.

  • If not, adjust the depth of your curve until it is.

  • Mine's perfect, so I trace the shape with a marker and label it.

  • The last thing to do with your pattern is add a seam allowance.

  • I use a one quarter inch seam allowance.

  • The quickest, cheatiest way to add a quarter inch seam allowance is to strap two #2 pencils

  • together and trace your pattern lines.

  • It's really close to a quarter inch between the two sharpened leads.

  • I don't know why I added a seam allowance on the top there, that's the side that'll

  • be against the fold to cut the piece. Oh well.

  • Now your pattern is complete!

  • From here, you can sew it as is, or you can tailor it a bit for a closer fit.

  • If you want a close fit on a female doll, for example, you have the option of curving

  • the side seams to make the shirt a little more shapely.

  • But this pattern has been drawn for a mature female doll.

  • If you're sewing for a less mature doll or a male doll, you might discover that your

  • shoulder measurement is very close to the number you get from one quarter of your chest measurement.

  • I'll show you how to address that by measuring my Littlefee and drawing a quick front piece.

  • As you can see, following the method I just shared, this gives us no room at the chest

  • line to create any kind of curve for the sleeve hole.

  • Don't worry. It happens all the time.

  • If you encounter this problem, all you have to do is extend the chest line, measuring

  • out from the line we've marked for the shoulder width.

  • For YoSD, extend it by one centimeter.

  • For mini, 1.5, and for SD, by 2 centimeters.

  • This gives you the room to complete the curve, finish your pattern, and still maintain the

  • proper fit.

  • The next step is checking the pattern against your doll.

  • I haven't added a seam allowance to this piece, but I can already see this will be a great fit.

  • We'll cover tailoring and adjustments in another video, but this is all for today.

  • Thank you for watching! Bye.

Hello, everyone! This is Lomi, and today I'll be showing you how to make a t-shirt pattern for a doll using

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あなたの人形に合わせてシャツのパターンを下書き (Drafting a shirt pattern to fit your doll)

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    sCAT に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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