字幕表 動画を再生する 英語字幕をプリント Graphic , Hey guy's we're on day two now of the repair and we went ahead and let this dry for a full 24 hours so we just removed it from our drying rack, we're gonna go ahead now and take our clamp off, that's where we know we finished the job. If you happen to use a tape or another type of clamp, we're just going to go ahead and remove that the main objective here is just to hold the compression tape so that it doesn't move as your compressing it. And it doesn't unwind itself, that's all. Start removing it. So you can see that our tape actually broke a little bit while we're taking it out so this is a common thing that happens with this tape sometimes because it's so brittle it cracks when it's under high compression like that so I'm just going to go in with a little razor blade here and pop that back out it's not usually too big of a deal When you do this just make sure you get all of it sometimes you'll miss like a little section of it and then I'll actually it won't lay won't come all out properly Another little trick here is you want to basically put perpendicular force when you're unwrapping so you just want to keep this nice and taut, so that when you pull up it actually pulls up all of the fiber. But everything looks really good we've got a nice seam on the bottom here where the carbon came back together it looks solid and we can go ahead now and just really simply give it a little squeeze and to make sure that everything hardened, and it did, it's solid and we can just do a quick little coin test here there's no dead spot, I mean, the pitch changes slightly but it's not, we're not seeing that drastic change that we did before so we know it's a pretty solid structure We now went ahead and unwrapped everything, so we're just going to go ahead and sand it. In this case I'm starting just a very little bit of some of our 120 that's left over, I'm going to come in here and just kinda just get some of the big stuff out real quick and then I'll come in with the 220 and then finish this off with the 320 . One of the things to make sure, like to talk about before, making sure the area is nice and wet. You don't wanna this dry, you don't want to get the carbon air born. Trying to keep this nice and clean it also let's the sandpaper last a lot longer. So again, like I showed you guys before, just going to give it a couple little sprays here and then spray the sandpaper and that's it. We're ready to go ahead and start sanding We're also gonna go ahead now and flip this over so we can get the bottom side nicely and I'm probably just about done now with my 120. It's not perfectly smooth but it's pretty darn close I'm now we're gonna come in with our 220 in a minute here, once I get this little roughness out of the bottom done well and then we'll smooth this out for the final ... Once we do that, once we get this 120 and get this little area in here cleaned up just a little bit of left over epoxy and stuff, we'll go ahead and do it with the 220 and then we're gonna go ahead and unwrap this area and clean up any of the excess material around it to make sure you got a nice clean repair area and we're ready for finish. The sides look pretty good here we can see there's a little bit of carbon that's going up over that electrical tape area and that's fine it's not gonna stick to it very well so once we unwrap it we'll clean up that edges and that's what we're gonna use that 320 for , we might touch it with a little bit of 220...and if you did this all right this sanding area, you should be able to do in about 10 to 15 minutes of sanding. It shouldn't be too much, if you're needing to do any more than that and you're ruining, you're taking off too much of the repair area you are gonna have to rewrap it and do it again and just the more you do it you know the better you get at this and the better prep work you do the better your finish is gonna come out....So we're gonna go ahead and unwrap this now...I just like to wipe this thing down a little bit, just so that we don't get splatter mess everywhere that's a good sign, we actually don't have any epoxy that came through the top layer which is awesome. You don't really need to double wrap it the way I do, I just do it because every now and then epoxy can get through We typically at the shop, when we do repairs, we're vacuum bagging, so we don't really have these problems but at home most you don't have a full vacuum setup so it's a lot more difficult. This is a really good setup at home, or someone starting out and actually get real good quality results with a pretty simple toolset. So you can see here there's a little bit of taping residue that's still on here, but we're gonna go ahead and be able to remove this no problem so again we're just gonna wet the area a little bit go ahead and wet the sandpaper a little bit, it's also sometimes an easy way to clear out your sandpaper By just spraying it It'll actually clear out the paper so you can use that same piece for a lot longer Now we're trying to focus a little more on the ends here where we had that tape line just to make sure that you have it nice and smooth...we're gonna sand out all that decals there. And then the only other thing that we're gonna have to deal with here is just removing all these decals now this is where you're start getting into the overlap of the finish and the sanding here The repair itself is done, it looks pretty smooth if your gonna send this out to a painter have a painter do this for you to do the final finish work your gonna want to sand this down with the 320 and get all the little imperfections out just have a nice smooth surface and they'll be ready to go ahead most painters here can actually recreate this decal on the seat tube for you pretty easily so we're done now ready to finish There you go We've now gone ahead an finished the repair. We've also done our final sanding on the job. We've gone ahead and unwrapped the entire frame and we can take a closer look at what the bike looks like now and come up with all of our finishing options In this particular case, we could easily remove the entire decal and clear coat it and it'd look pretty good. We probably wouldn't really notice anything wrong with the bike. You could also go ahead and have a painter recreate this decal for you in paint and paint the whole frame and then clear it. You could also have a vinyl shop possibly just make the decal for you and then clear it. That would look pretty good. The last option you have, is if you don't have the ability to clear coat yourself, you can grab a piece of vinyl and basically just cover this up with some black vinyl you probably wouldn't really notice it too badly with the front deraillur and everything being here, put a bottle cage on it. You probably wouldn't notice it too bad. You want to make sure that you always cover the repair area with something, you want to protect it from the UV rays In our case, we have used a UV stable epoxy, but we're not quite sure what Giant's used in the past. They could've used something that wasn't UV stable They probably have, and it's probably just fine ...but you wanna make sure, so we will usually recommend to do a UV stable clear coat, which any automotive clear coat is, or by using a piece of vinyl, if you use vinyl make sure it's always covered. Now we've gone ahead and gone over all the finishing options, one of the things to clarify between doing an at-home repair and having a professional, like Predator Cycling repair it for you, is we're gonna use a couple different procedures At our shop here, we use vacuums to do all of our repairs And that allows us to get even better than the compression tape on the adhesion to the repair and to make sure we get all of the epoxy out You really get just a little better finish on there and you get a little bit smoother finish. We're also using a couple different tools here that we don't talk about. This kit and these videos are gears towards at-home repair and we're trying to use the tools and procedures that you can do at home with everything that you have in your garage The other thing to mention here is that at Predator, we only offer two finishing options. We do a standard clear coat which would basically be, at this point we clean the graphics up and clear coat the other option that we offer is a matched finish and the match finish, we'd either do a vinyl decal and clear or have it painted and cleared. We don't offer a vinyl coat covering. The reason we do that is, we're not sure that a customer will not take that vinyl protective sheet off, we want to make sure that it's fully protected and it's UV stable. We use the top-of-the-line automotive clear coats here to be completely UV stable and we also use top-of-the-line vinyls here so you get really nice, thin crisp edges As you can see our DIY kit includes all the needed supplies and materials to do an at-home carbon repair . With the proper materials and instructions you can be on your next ride even faster than before For anything that's a larger more complicated repair please don't hesitate to reach out Predator Cycling, one of our technicians will be happy to assist you with a quote. Please visit us at our site to see our latest custom carbon builds, as well as our custom carbon components and our shop apparel also check out our custom carbon accessories such as the Razorback 2.0, which is our carbon fiber race number holder, for road racers and triathletes alike Thanks for watching and we'll catch you next time. If you like the video you can go ahead and click on subscribe button here and you can get all of our latest videos if you missed any part of the DIY carbon repair video series you can catch both part 1 and part 2 here guys thanks again for watching Graphic