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  • this is Tatiana, you know her from Princess and the Frog.

  • You've seen this outfit and this one.

  • But are they accurate?

  • We got this fashion historian.

  • Hi, I'm rice Britannia and I'm a fashion historian to walk us through what Disney got right and what they got wrong about these outfits first, let's establish a time period.

  • This is 19 twenties, New Orleans.

  • How do we know that?

  • They sing about New Orleans specifically in this first song, Dreams Do Come True in New Orleans.

  • Why 19 twenties?

  • We can tell that it's the 1920s because we're at the height of the jazz age and we see 1920s style cars and 1920s style clothing on the background characters.

  • Today, we think of the 1920s stereotype of the flapper, but that's not really what we're going to be looking at today.

  • So the idea of The fringe dress and the really short skirts is really an idea that grew later in the 20th century when people referred back to the 1920s.

  • But if we look at the actual clothing worn during the period, we'll see that it doesn't look like that at all.

  • Let's start with this look is pretty good overall, but the waste is in the wrong place.

  • So this isn't totally accurate.

  • So let's draw Diana's dress from the undergarments.

  • Up.

  • First up the underwear.

  • So Diana would have been wearing drawers or they started to be called panties at this time, panties would actually have this kind of short shape for a couple more decades.

  • Brassieres finally replaced the corset in the 1910s and became the standard in the 1920s, stockings are typically made of cotton or silk.

  • This type of hosiery was typically purchased from a department store or a mail order catalog.

  • These mail order catalogs really revolutionized the way that women shopped because you had access to this variety of products and they were often delivered right to your home, not unlike online shopping today.

  • So these stockings were worn above the knee and typically fastened with a garter, but it was most rebellious to roll your stockings and not wear garters at all.

  • Some of these women would famously even put makeup on their knees next layer.

  • This next layer, It was often called the shimmies, but I'm going to use the 20th century term slip to differentiate it from the chimneys of the 18th and 19th centuries.

  • The slip was practical for a couple of reasons.

  • First because dresses tended to be pretty lightweight and kind of sheer at this time and the slip provided that extra layer for opacity.

  • Second, they would absorb the sweat and it would be easier to wash than, say, your outer garment over.

  • This would be the dress.

  • Her dress is almost accurate except for the placement of the waste line.

  • We see that it really rides at the center narrowest part of her waist when in reality of the fashionable line of the 1920s, placed the waist at the hips.

  • In the 19 twenties, the fashionable silhouette was as straight as possible.

  • You wanted to look like a column and have the fabric hang straight down from your shoulders.

  • This dress resembles Tatiana's dress in that it is yellow and also has the collar and cuffs.

  • This is the type of dress you could order from a catalog or you could purchase a pattern like this one to make the dress yourself.

  • Now we'll look at the shoes.

  • Tatiana is wearing a sensible dark pump, which is pretty accurate, but I think we'd want to have a strap if you were on your feet all day.

  • A typical working shoe would have a strap across the foot or even be a shoe like an Oxford, which totally encases the foot.

  • Many of the aprons that we see on waitresses in the 1920s actually resemble Pinafores so they go over the shoulder and cover the top part of the body as well.

  • And now her hair.

  • As you can see in these images, there were a variety of black hair trends in the 1920s.

  • Tatiana's hair is a bit long for the period and it's pulled back into a ponytail.

  • And in the 1920s, most women cut their hair quite short.

  • In this picture of singer Marian Anderson, we see that she has a short straightened hairstyle and this type of hairstyle would have been achieved by the use of a hot comb here we have the patent for the hot comb which was used by heating it on the stove and then using it to comb through and straighten the hair to help with the styling process.

  • Products like pressing oils and palm aids were used and those were pioneered by black entrepreneurs like Annie Malone and Madam C.

  • J.

  • Walker.

  • Hat will be worn over the hair.

  • Tianna wears a hat which was known as a close throughout the 1920s.

  • The hats got smaller and closer to the head to really match those short cropped hair styles.

  • You can really see how popular these hats were in all of these photos and on top of everything, Tatiana's coat seems pretty accurate.

  • It doesn't have all of the markers of the 19 twenties coat like that low hip line or any like art deco motifs, but it does hang straight from the body and it kind of resembles the Duster.

  • The Duster was popularized in the early 20th century due to the rise of many forms of transit.

  • This type of coat really protected your clothes from the dust that you would gather while commuting via car or via trolley and that's why it's called a Duster.

  • So here is what Tatiana's day dress would have looked like compared to the one she wears in the film.

  • Pretty close.

  • Right, let's move on to Diana's iconic Princess Look.

  • This dress is actually only in the film for like 15 seconds when she magically transforms from a frog to a human princess.

  • But this is the dress that's most associated with Tianna.

  • So that's the one we're going to talk about.

  • So is this accurate for 1920s formal wear?

  • This dress is pure fantasy and has nothing to do with the 1920s, so this isn't accurate either.

  • Now we're going to draw every layer of this dress.

  • First up the underwear, There was a lot of variety when it came to underwear in the 1920s and one kind was called the combination or Cami Knickers.

  • So you would really step into this garment and pull it on kind of like a onesie or some of them.

  • You would put over your head and they had little snaps at the Crotch.

  • The next layer was the girdle.

  • The girdle was used to flatten hip curves to create that straight silhouette.

  • She would have also been wearing stockings.

  • In this image we see the complete underwear look with the combination of the girdle and the stockings and then the slip similar to the one worn with Tatiana's day dress.

  • She would be wearing a slip like this.

  • However, it would probably be a little fancier and these things could get really elaborate with lace and trimming and then the main event address quite possibly the most fashionable evening dress of the 19 twenties was the Road to Steal.

  • The Road to steal is characterized by its drop waist and it's wide skirts.

  • This silhouette really resembles an 18th century court dress which you may remember from the Beauty and the Beast episode.

  • As you can see, Tatiana's dress really has an hourglass shape with fullness that starts at the natural waist.

  • Whereas this kind of dress would have a very straight torso with fullness that starts down at the hips.

  • This was an extremely fashionable style and it was represented over and over in the pages of magazines, both as illustrations and in photographs in the 1920s.

  • Evening shoes were highly decorative.

  • As we can see in this example, shoes were often brightly colored dyed silks and incorporated designs that reflected the art deco style, not only in the materials, which tended to be mixed metals, but also in the cutouts in the shapes which were usually geometric.

  • Then the gloves, the gloves are the only accurate part of this dress.

  • Evening gloves would typically extend above the elbow, which we would call opera length and could be made from a satin like Tatiana's looked to be, or they could even be kids skin leather and then more accessories.

  • Most jewelry in the 1920s reflected this art deco style.

  • Tianna could have been wearing a laval ear necklace, which would have been a long chain with a very fabulous pendant at the end.

  • Earrings tend to be long with some sort of teardrop shape and that really accentuated the hairstyle.

  • There's nothing more 1920s than earrings that are longer than your hair.

  • Speaking of the hair, this quintessential 19 twenties hairstyle is called the Marcel wave or the finger wave.

  • Finger waves were popular with both white and black women at the time to create the style, you would sculpt the waves by soaking the hair and product and then the stylist would sculpt the hair into these waves using the fingers, Hence the finger wave.

  • And because she's a princess, she would have a tiara in the 19 twenties, Tiaras actually resembled more like headbands and they were worn pretty low just across the forehead and it's funny to say, but foreheads were terribly out of fashion in the 19 twenties, so here's what Princess Diana might have looked like compared to the original Disney look.

  • So Disney actually did a pretty great job with this movie And after this fantasy gown, we do see Tianna in more 1920s evening where you can see her wedding look here and the look she wears to her restaurant opening here.

  • But it's really fun to look at these little details of what women wore in the 1920s and that's what Tiana would've worn if she lived in history.

this is Tatiana, you know her from Princess and the Frog.

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ディズニー「プリンセスと魔法のキス」の衣装は歴史的に正しい?| VOGUE JAPAN

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    林宜悉 に公開 2021 年 10 月 07 日
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