there are more than 15 Thai restaurants.

In the last 20 years,

Thai restaurants have taken off in America, Europe, and Africa.

But that success is actually a little

out of whack with the number of Thai immigrants

around the world.

In the US, there's roughly one Mexican restaurant

for every 650 Mexican Americans.

But with Thai restaurants, there's one for every 55

or so Thai Americans.

- And it's not just because Thai food is delicious.

The explosion of Thai restaurants is paid for

by the Thai government.

The Thai government started a program

promoting this food in 2002 and it was the first example

of something that has become a trend in foreign policy.

It's called

gastrodiplomacy.

That means using food to extend a country's

cultural influence.

Gastrodiplomacy exists at the intersection of

two 21st century trends,

globalization and foodie culture.

It started as a way to strengthen nations,

but it's also expanding our national identity.

I'm Isabelle Niu.

This Is Quartz.

- Oh, hot!

Spicy!

Last year, Chalisa Fitts took over this Thai restaurant

in the heart of Washington, D.C.

And one day a strange call came in.

- From a Thai Embassy saying I was awarded,

by Thai Ministry of Commerce,

because my restaurant is authentic.

I actually first thought it was a scam.

It wasn't a scam.

A few days later, officials from the Thai embassy came

and presented her an award called Thai Select.

- I almost cried actually.

There is only five out of 65 Thai restaurants in D.C.

that were awarded.

This Thai Select program is a part of

Thailand's multifaceted effort to promote

its food globally.

Since 2002, the government has trained Thai chefs,

given out loans to restaurateurs

who wanted to go abroad,

studied the preferences of foreigners,

and has even come up with three prototypes

of Thai restaurants that would do well overseas.

- Thailand was the first to really conduct

a gastrodiplomacy campaign,

and they helped spread Thai restaurants

as a kind of a Thai Embassy if you will.

Paul Rockower is an expert on gastrodiplomacy.

- It's a form of nation branding, of

edible nation branding really, it's a way of promoting

soft power through promoting culture by focusing on

cuisine as the way to connect people.

And the Thai government's efforts have paid off.

Since the effort began, the number of Thai restaurants

around the world has tripled to over 15,000.

Helping Thai food go mainstream comes with

huge economic benefits too.

- People, you know, tried it more, visited Thailand more,

and the tourism increased because of it.

Today, Thailand is the most visited country

in Southeast Asia.

Travel and tourism accounts for more than 10% of its GDP.

And one third of that tourism spending

is on food and drinks.

Thailand's gastro diplomacy has inspired many

other countries to follow suit.

Several years ago, South Korea started what's called

Kimchi diplomacy.

Spending tens of millions of dollars promoting

its cuisine overseas.

It's made a ton of food related videos.

There's even an entire government-sponsored

English K-pop album just about food.

Other countries launching their own campaigns

include Peru, Malaysia, Lebanon and Taiwan.

These countries all have a lot to gain

from gastrodiplomacy.

They're relatively small, and view food as a way

to distinguish themselves.

But even superpowers, like Japan and the U.S.,

are doing gastrodiplomacy.

The Japanese government has even funded

its own catchy music video promoting its food.

All of these campaigns have helped diversify

the food we eat.

And that's the kind of foreign government interference

I can get behind.

Another reason why governments are jumping on

the gastrodiplomacy wagon has a lot to do with

the rise of foodie culture around the world.

- There is more of an interest in different types of food

and in things that might be a little

off the beaten path.

And that interest has created opportunities for

gastrodiplomacy on a much smaller scale,

by people like 25-year-old Mustafa Nuur.

- So right now we're making our Somali samosas.

Usually they're very spicy,

but this is the American version.

We try to not to kill anybody when they come here.

Mustafa and his family moved from Somalia

to Lancaster, Pennsylvania about four years ago.

The small city became known as the refugee capital

of America for settling refugees at a rate 20 times

that of the rest of the country.

But after the 2016 election, Mustafa says

attitude towards refugees changed.

- The people who loved refugees became more

passionate about it.

The people who didn't love refugees became

more passionate about it.

So he decided to start a program to connect refugees

and Lancaster residents through food.

- Hi. You Guys didn't get lost.

Come on in. Welcome please.

- When you sit together with somebody,

and there is an element of food,

it usually diffuses the tension.

Mustafa's program lets Lancaster residents

book a dinner with the local refugee family.

The family then cooks their traditional food

and eats with the guests.

We are new to the neighborhood as far as

being new refugees and immigrants.

And the best way to introduce ourselves

is through our food and our story.

- Welcome to our home. - Thank you.

He works with 16 refugee families in the area.

Over 3,000 people have booked meals.

I'm opening our doors and they are walking in our doors,

which is equally nerve-wracking for both parties.

- I'm sorry you went to the wrong house.

- If there's one that breaks apart you know which one it is.

- You have some Somali in you.

- 3,000 people had said, "I'm gonna go to a stranger's house

and I'm gonna learn about their culture."

So I will consider what the work I do gastrodiplomacy.

It's using food as a form of connecting cross-culturally,

cross-faith, cross-country,

so yeah.

Mustafa's program is part of a growing social movement.

Organizations around the world see gastrodiplomacy

as a way to help refugees and immigrants.

It goes beyond seeing food as a symbol of nationalism.

And that's what gastro diplomacy can do:

turn something that seems foreign and exotic

into a part of our everyday life.

- Thank you. - Thank you again. Appreciate it.