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  • Bread has been a staple on the human diet for thousands of years.

  • But for the last few decades, modern diets have villainized the baked

  • good. And bread has been taking a hit over the years.

  • Total U.S. sales have been stagnant since 2015, showing little to no

  • growth leading up to 2020.

  • And on average, Americans spent less money on bread in 2017 than they did

  • just four years earlier.

  • Not to mention the fact that some of the country's biggest bread

  • manufacturers are complaining about the rising costs of key ingredients in

  • an industry where small players battle low margins and excess capacity.

  • The bread business has to consolidate Sara Lee and Wonderbread, two of the

  • biggest names in bread.

  • Both were bought out by publicly traded flour foods in 2012 and 2013,

  • respectively. And another big problem for bread.

  • It's facing increased scrutiny for some of its extra ingredients.

  • Things like chemical dough conditioner's, preservatives, added sugar and

  • GMO's. Those additives helped manufacturers produce a loaf in less time,

  • prolong a shelf life and keep the bread soft.

  • But bread is making a comeback.

  • Well, specifically, this preservative free artisan, tangy flavored

  • sourdough bread sourdough was made with just two ingredients, whereas a

  • loaf of Wonderbread has over 20 ingredients.

  • Another big difference sourdough can take up to seven days to make from

  • scratch versus just a few hours to make commercial bread.

  • There's also a price difference.

  • From 2015 to 2019.

  • sourdough bread sales have seen significant growth.

  • Sourdough is also growing more popular at restaurants in 2019, it was on

  • 14.3 percent of restaurant menus, up from 11.6

  • percent ten years earlier. Even DIYers are getting in on the sourdough

  • craze. Now sending days baking bread is the cool thing to do.

  • Instagram is full of DIY self-taught bakers making their own sourdough.

  • Even coders out in Silicon Valley are blogging about the fermentation

  • graphs of their sourdough starters.

  • And perhaps most importantly, health evangelists are praising the benefits

  • of adding sourdough bread into your diet.

  • Between sourdough is almost cult like following on social media and a more

  • health focused consumer base looking for better food options; s ourdough

  • bread is more popular than ever.

  • According to a survey, almost nine out of 10 people know about sourdough

  • and another seven out of 10 have tried it.

  • In the U.S. alone, sourdough is a multibillion dollar market between 2014

  • and 2018. Sourdough's market value in America jumped from 229.7

  • million dollars to 2.4

  • billion dollars. The question now?

  • Is the sourdough market destined to keep rising?

  • Or is it just another fad destined to fade away?

  • Sourdough was made with just two basic ingredients flour and water.

  • You mix them together. Leave it at room temperature over time and feed the

  • same amount of flour and water for a few days.

  • That m ixture when exposed to the elements eventually starts to bubble and

  • that bubbling is actually a chemical change called fermentation.

  • What's happening is that microbes from the surrounding environment are

  • essentially colonizing the dough t hen growing and dividing.

  • Basically turning it into a medley of flour, water, bacteria and wild

  • yeast, which is a single celled fungi.

  • The bubbling mixture is called a sourdough starter, and you could think of

  • it as a living thing. All that bacteria is generating lactic acid and the

  • yeast is actively feeding off starches in flour.

  • It pumps the resulting carbon dioxide and ethanol into the dough.

  • The carbon dioxide expands the gluten network in the dough, while the acid

  • in alcohol is what gives sourdough its sour taste.

  • It also digests this gluten network and allows the enzymes present in the

  • flour to do their job, like cutting the starches into edible pieces of

  • sugar for the yeast.

  • Though sourdough, whose origin story has been contested over the years,

  • the first written record of sourdough dates back around 4000 B.C.

  • in ancient Egypt.

  • The first written evidence on sourdough is from the pyramids,

  • and there are hieroglyphs showing people making beer and bread in the same

  • hieroglyphs. So this is crossover fermentation.

  • The sourdough starter was discovered when a mixture of flour and water was

  • exposed to the elements over time.

  • The mixture began to bubble and rise, a process we now know is called

  • fermentation. Rather than throw out the odd smelling and expanding

  • mixture. The mystery cook decided a baker anyway.

  • The result? A large round, spongy loaf of bread that we now call

  • sourdough. Since ancient Egypt, this method of bread making was passed

  • down from civilization to civilization, from ancient Rome to ancient

  • Greece all the way to the American Yukon gold rush.

  • Using a sourdough starter was pretty much the only way of making bread for

  • thousands of years.

  • But things started to change for sourdough during the later half of the

  • 19th century. Now, as the population kind of changed and we went towards

  • cities, we always had to feed a population on an industrialized scale, so

  • we had the creation of an industrialized bread system.

  • It wasn't until the mid 19th century that scientists caught on to the

  • microbiology behind what makes bread rise.

  • Once they knew about wild yeast and how it works, a race set off to figure

  • out how to make it available to the masses.

  • Brothers Charles and Maximilian Fleischmann were one of the first to bring

  • commercial use to the market on a large scale when they unveiled their

  • product to 10 million people at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition in

  • 1876.

  • The only problem it was perishable and would go bad after two weeks in the

  • fridge. It wasn't until World War II that the bread business was totally

  • revolutionized. As the wall came in, we readily the American

  • side. They contacted the Fleischmann brothers, who were the people who

  • originally discovered that you could turn yeast into a tablet.

  • And in the 1940s, the push was produced fast bread for

  • soldiers. The Fleischmann Company improved on its original yeast product

  • by creating the first ever active dry yeast.

  • It didn't require refrigeration and could be easily activated with warm

  • water. Fleischman's active dry yeast was a game changer to the commercial

  • bread business as well.

  • After the war ended, active drug use was brought to the retail market and

  • the mass production of bread in the US took off, which was bad news for

  • the slow-bake sourdough bread.

  • Out went the use of sourdough starters in came in what we see today, large

  • commercial bakeries filling grocery stores with ready made pre sliced

  • bread wrapped in cellophane that could last for weeks.

  • By 1944, 85 percent of the bread that was made in the United States came

  • from large commercial bakeries, according to a survey conducted at that

  • time. From the 1950s up through today, bread companies have continued to

  • add extra ingredients to its products in order to make bread faster than

  • ever and to prolong its shelf life.

  • But the same chemical additives that helped industrialize spread quickly

  • and cheaply brought on a laundry list of health concerns for shoppers.

  • Well, why not post World War II anymore, We're in a very, very different

  • situation.

  • And so this very fast plastic kind of bread,

  • which was really, I guess done out to the well-meaning sort of aim, is

  • actually causing issues across the globe with people's health, wellness,

  • blood sugar management, calorific management and the amount of

  • nutrition they get from their base food.

  • 2000 was the year of peak grain when the average American 137.6

  • pounds of grain in a year, mostly in the form of breads and other baked

  • goods. According to the USDA, per capita consumption of flour was 146

  • pounds per person in 2000.

  • In 2018, it had fallen to 132 pounds.

  • It's all been downhill from there.

  • The timing dovetails with the rise of low fat and low carb diets in the

  • 90s and early 2000s.

  • This decline has also come as more and more Americans are diagnosed with

  • an allergy to gluten.

  • Remember gluten? It's the protein that plays a key role in helping dough

  • to rise. The number of Americans following the gluten free diet triple

  • from 2013 to 2018, according to Sundale Research and gluten free products

  • appear to be virtually everywhere.

  • Nearly 30 percent consumers are now buying foods with gluten free labels,

  • and sales of gluten free foods reach 17 billion dollars in 2018, more than

  • double the amount spent in 2011.

  • All this may seem like a doomsday scenario for sourdough bread, but

  • sourdough is actually proving to be one option for bread lovers who want

  • to eat the real thing without facing nearly as many side effects as its

  • commercial bread rivals.

  • So why is that? sourdough is typically more nutritious than regular bread.

  • It's easier to digest and is a potential better option for blood sugar

  • control. The reason it all comes down to the active drugs versus sourdough

  • starter. What makes the sourdough starter so special are all the

  • micro-organisms derived from the fermentation process.

  • Commercial bread misses out on that.

  • It uses an active dry yeast which simulates the chemical process that

  • makes bread rise. However, it lacks the naturally occurring fungi and

  • bacteria that sourdough bread has.

  • Here's why that matters. Sourdough slow fermentation process makes a lot

  • easier for our bodies to absorb important nutrients.

  • All of those micro-organisms and sourdough also promote gut metabolic

  • health. Sourdough also doesn't lead to blood sugar spikes and crashes.

  • It actually slows down the speed at which glucose is released into the

  • bloodstream, which is a great thing for diabetics who have to watch their

  • insulin levels. Sourdough has another big thing going for it.

  • Store-bought bread has been put under intense scrutiny for the extra

  • ingredients manufacturers add in order to extend shelf life.

  • These include everything from extra gluten, fat, reducing agents,

  • emulsifiers enzymes and preservatives.

  • Some U.S. commercial breads, along with a lot of other foods found in

  • grocery stores, were slammed for using the same chemical ingredient found

  • in yoga mats. When I first discovered making sourdough bread, I realized

  • even the best bread I was giving my family wasn't real bread.

  • It had 38 ingredients in it and should just be flour, water, salt and

  • yeast. And I make a lot of it and we eat a lot of it.

  • And we're not getting fat from it and we're not getting sick from it.

  • And my friends that have thought they had gluten issues had no problem

  • with it. And it wasn't that it was gluten, it was that we were eating

  • chemicals and fake processed food.

  • Sourdough's surge in popularity isn't just linked to health conscious

  • consumers. It's actually developed a cult like following on social media

  • and has drawn attention from a new wave of DIY bakers.

  • In 2019, one of the founders of Microsoft's Xbox, Seamus Blackley,

  • resurrected a sourdough starter dating back over 4000 years to ancient

  • Egypt. Blackley used dormant yeast and bacteria from ancient Egyptian

  • pots. He mixed those samples with the sourdough starter he made, creating

  • this sourdough loaf with its origins dating back to ancient Egypt.

  • Blackley isn't alone in his affinity for delving into the science behind

  • sourdough. Silicon Valley coders are charting out their fermentation of

  • their starter cultures to try to understand the inner workings of all of

  • its microbes. Since sourdough starters all contain living microorganisms,

  • it requires constant attention, like all living things.

  • If a startup is probably taking care of it can last for years, decades and

  • sometimes generations.

  • N one of us has something that is old, you know, if you have something

  • that's a hundred years old, it's almost certainly an heirloom that was

  • given to you. It's a set of earrings that came from your great grandmother

  • or some vase that came from the old country but it's not something alive .

  • Imagine having something alive that's a hundred years old.

  • So the stories that come with starters, I think are valuable.

  • I think part of recapturing of culture.

  • Maintaining your own sourdough starter isn't an easy business.

  • It requires constant feeding to ensure that the same starter can be used

  • over and over again. Feeding a starter looks like this.

  • It's just simply adding a little bit of flour and water to the mixture.

  • And over time, it becomes like taking care of a new family pet.

  • There's a whole schedule.

  • It's like a pet. It's like, you know, you don't just get a goldfish and

  • then leave town for three months.

  • It's like you need to feed this thing.

  • Like this is this is mine right here.

  • And this is one of two.

  • And when I take off, I'm you know, I'm a comedian.

  • When I'm on the road, I'm constantly thinking, like, who's going to feed

  • it? That's where unique sourdough business like Matias Jakobsen's comes

  • into play. Jakobsen has been baking sourdough for nearly eight years, and

  • for five years Jakobsen has been operating The Sourdough Inn in Brooklyn.

  • He takes care of people starters while they're on vacation, feeding them

  • with flour and water a few times a week.

  • The questions I ask as part of the check-in process, like I want to know

  • how how they currently feed it.

  • And, you know, just so I understand what they're trying to do with it.

  • So they told me like they would prefer to just feed it, you know, around

  • every five days and generally keep it in the fridge.

  • And this one is a very, very low maintenance in terms of what it means

  • generally that the sourdoughs have had had not been any kind of peculiar

  • requests. And then other than that, I think it's like meeting as people

  • that are passionate about something.

  • So I always ask about people, you know, how they started making sourdough

  • and why. According to his website, Jakobsen charges $15 per week for hotel

  • services and also runs a training and rehabilitation service that revives

  • a starter for about $60 per session.

  • The idea for sourdough Hotel in Brooklyn actually originated from a

  • sourdough hotel that started in Sweden.

  • There is a sourdough hotel in Stockholm and Scandinavia has a generally

  • advanced bread culture.

  • So in Stockholm, obviously there was this sourdough Hotel and they were

  • teasing and well, because you bake bread Matias, you need to be the one to

  • start a Brooklyn sourdough hotel.

  • You really you really need to do that in Sweden.

  • Some bakers could bring their starters to R.C.

  • Chocolat. It's a bakery based in Stockholm that charges their guests 100

  • Swedish krona or roughly $10 per week for each of their starters as of

  • February 19th 2020.

  • And about a 1,000 miles southwest of Stockholm, there is another place for

  • several starters are looked after and handled with extreme care.

  • And it's in the world's only sourdough starter library.

  • The collection last week was 115.

  • But now we have up to 125.

  • So I will.

  • So these are the fridges and they are filled w ith the different

  • s ourdoughs. This is Karl De Smedt .

  • He's the head baker of Puratos and he runs the first and only sourdough

  • starter library. And then here we have number 43,

  • which was actually my very first sour do I saw in my life.

  • Back in 2013, the company Puratos launch its sourdough Library in Saint

  • Vith, Belgium. The library develops, researches and preserves the

  • biodiversity of different sourdough starters for the future.

  • And while they're just 125 starters in the library's walls, there are over

  • 1,600 starters registered in the company's digital library from all around

  • the world. Each new starter that arrives to the library is sent to a lab

  • for analysis, a process that can cost anywhere from 3,000 to 5,000 dollars

  • to analyze a single starter.

  • So every sourdough that we get into the library is sent to a university

  • with whom we work together.

  • That can be in Italy and France and Spain.

  • And there the sourdough is actually placed on petri dishes and then they

  • grow the cultures.

  • And as such, it takes about three months, forty five working days on

  • average. You can select the different colonies on these petri dishes and

  • grow and grow and grow them further.

  • Then we we are actually taking all these different microorganisms and we

  • have these little test tubes where we sort of isolated strain is put in

  • there and that can be a yeast or lactic acid bacteria.

  • And as such, the sourdough strains are preserved for the future.

  • In the library, there are some starters that date back centuries.

  • The baker who gave me it is said that it must be from 1886, more or less.

  • Then we have this one, which is number one hundred.

  • That's a sourdough that we have from a bakery in the centre of Tokyo.

  • And that was a sourdough that has been developed by Mr.

  • Kimura, and he was one of the last samurai, and he converted himself into

  • a baker, and one of his friends was making saké based on rice, and so he

  • converted his sourdough into rice.

  • And so this is now the only rice sourdough we have in the library and it

  • dates back to 1875.

  • And then this one is from Ioane Christensen in Whitehall's.

  • And she was the first mayor of Whitehall's and senator of Yukon.

  • And this sourdough dates back to 1896 when her great grandfather was

  • participating in the Klondike Goldrush.

  • So why spend thousands just to analyze starters several decades old, Karl

  • says the research that they're providing actually helps the bakers of

  • today and the future.

  • Through DNA analysis, t hey are identified.

  • And as such, we have discovered now more than 900, 950 different strains

  • already from two from six genus of yeast and six genus of lactic

  • acid bacteria. Since its discovery, sourdough has been a key fixture

  • across different cultures and countries around the world.

  • Bread has been a staple food for the last 5000 years and it will probably

  • be the staple food for the next 5000 years, maybe more, because it

  • is a fantastic product that can be set in the middle of the table and

  • unite all the good things.

  • Sourdough has survived the invention of commercial, active, dry east, no

  • carb diets, and some analysts say sourdough has a lot more room for

  • growth. But with the rise of sourdough, so too comes the rise of

  • "sourfaux" bread.

  • Sourfaux is a term used for retail bread that claims to be traditional

  • sourdough, but in fact sourfaux has the same commercial use additives and

  • flavoring as a cellphone wrapped in retail bread.

  • As impostors flood the market, some worry it would be bad for sourdough

  • street cred as a locally produced artisanal premium product offering a

  • healthy alternative to commercial rivals.

  • But sourdough experts like Tom Papa aren't too worried.

  • The reason why we're the first generation that has all of these issues,

  • we're heavier than ever before.

  • We're being told that you can't eat bread.

  • You're being told that all this stuff makes you sick.

  • It's not the case.

  • The cases that four in my lifetime we've been eating a lot of things that

  • we're not food. They were food adjacent.

  • So I really think that processes like this, like making sourdough bread

  • and making things, making real food is just going to get bigger and

  • stronger.

Bread has been a staple on the human diet for thousands of years.

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ソールドーの台頭 (The Rise Of Sourdough)

  • 11 0
    day に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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