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  • - Hi, I'm Brandon Maxwell and we're gonna go over

  • three of my very favorite custom looks over the years.

  • [whoosh]

  • Okay, this is Gaga's Met Gala look from 2019.

  • So that theme was camp and I thought of all the people

  • going that night that she has naturally

  • embodied that theme since day one of her career.

  • So how would you have one look?

  • And I felt if anybody could change

  • in front of all these people it would be her.

  • There were three pattern makers that worked on this look.

  • So one pattern maker per look.

  • There were definitely five seamstresses

  • but I think it was more like 10.

  • I think probably the handwork was about 700 hours

  • over a period of a couple weeks, or a week.

  • This was a fuchsia silk faille.

  • And I think it was 24 yards maybe?

  • 28 yards, it was 28 yards.

  • We made one muslin of this in the office

  • it was actually in red.

  • And so we made one of these, it was a little bit shorter.

  • It was probably to right here.

  • And we had different women come in the office

  • who are the same height and body type as Gaga

  • and they basically walked around the office for a week

  • and stood on chairs and we blew it in the wind.

  • And I chose this fabric, one, because it is very durable

  • and it doesn't wrinkle as much.

  • We've walked down many, many blocks

  • in the New York streets with hundreds of people around.

  • So anything could have occurred.

  • You know the outfits could have shifted underneath.

  • So the whole time I'm walking 10 blocks

  • I'm thinking please let all the bustiers

  • underneath this outfit be lined up the entire time

  • that we're walking.

  • But look at me, just smiling.

  • I'm available for your movies

  • because I am an actress.

  • I tied this bow by hand in the principal's office before

  • standing on a chair.

  • And Sarah did these gorgeous metallic lashes

  • and Freddie did this great blonde bob

  • that had all these tiny little hair bows in it.

  • This jacket has snaps inside here

  • and then all of these bows I tied by hand.

  • I am an expert bow tier.

  • Okay here's the first reveal.

  • My upper lip is sweating 'cause this is stressing me out

  • going back and looking.

  • Anyways as you can see here are the snaps I told you about.

  • And it was a zipper.

  • So this was the first reveal.

  • So underneath this was a pink bustier.

  • So this was the first time that I had a sigh of relief

  • because there was no pink showing.

  • And so I think most people thought that this was it,

  • we were just taking off the coat

  • and then she was gonna move in.

  • And this was kind of the point

  • where I could see confusion on everyone's face,

  • like this guys right here.

  • He's like what's happening.

  • Is this it, is this the final?

  • And then that was the feeling on the carpet.

  • Everyone was like oh black dress, okay, we're moving on.

  • She's wearing a Tiffany necklace.

  • And look, all the baby hair bows.

  • This Tiffany necklace was super expensive

  • and I was very worried to accidentally rip it off.

  • Oh here's the reveal.

  • See, look at the crowd back here.

  • They're like, yes!

  • So this dress was crepe.

  • It was like a black stretch crepe

  • and on the hip was a black gazar.

  • And the black gazar was a risk

  • because black couture like gazar does wrinkle a lot.

  • That's like one of the biggest characteristics of gazar.

  • Is characteristics the right word?

  • I don't know.

  • This was a big hip that was built in

  • and made from shoulder pads on the side

  • that had many, many layers of tulle and gazar on it.

  • And what you don't see between this and the picture before

  • is that there was a waistband that was velcro

  • that had the same exact hip on the other side

  • under the pink jacket.

  • So it helped to fill out the pink jacket.

  • And what we had to do in that moment

  • as we're removing the jacket,

  • is that I had to very quickly rip that belt off

  • and hide it under the pink when it moved away

  • so that nobody saw that there was

  • another equal hip side on the other side.

  • We had to think about tailoring everything

  • in a way that would fit the outfit underneath it.

  • Okay here we are, to the pink dress.

  • I mean this guy for sure is loving it.

  • He is thrilled to be there.

  • See this was the third one and he was like,

  • we're in for a ride.

  • Under here is a bra and panty that has crystals on it,

  • 7000 or 8000 that were all placed by hand

  • by everyone in my office.

  • We were full of glue in there.

  • Anyways this dress, the first time I ever tried it on,

  • the woman in my office before Gaga,

  • you could see up here every tiny

  • little crystal coming through

  • and it looked textured and weird.

  • And then everything you can see underneath here

  • from the waist up is lined with neoprene

  • which is a swimsuit material

  • so that you can't see any bumps.

  • And Gaga of course is wearing her custom 12 inch shoes

  • which she walks in these shoes

  • better than she walks in sneakers.

  • On the back of this gorgeous Tiffany necklace

  • is a butterfly.

  • And in the rehearsal the only job I had

  • this entire night besides taking off the clothes

  • was to say butterfly to remind someone

  • to turn the necklace around.

  • And the whole way to the Met Gala for 10 blocks

  • in my mind I just kept saying butterfly, butterfly,

  • butterfly, butterfly and I forgot in the moment.

  • Of course, I forgot.

  • And literally all of these people,

  • these amazing dancers who I've worked with for years,

  • the whole time they're dancing and doing their umbrellas

  • and under their mouth they're just going butterfly,

  • butterfly and it never registered with me.

  • I'm in my mind I'm just thinking

  • isn't this an amazing magical moment.

  • I'm just living fully in it.

  • And then finally Gaga looked at me

  • and she said, "Butterfly?"

  • and I was like right butterfly.

  • I had turned it around and look how happy they were

  • that I remembered butterfly.

  • The butterfly was turned around,

  • not by me, by the professional

  • who has performed in front of people forever.

  • All right, so this is the bra, the panty.

  • The bra was totally crystallized,

  • so were the panties, and so were the shoes.

  • This was a project.

  • It was such a great moment.

  • 'Cause everybody on my team worked super, super hard.

  • hand placed those crystals and like what this moment

  • means for them and to have been a part of it.

  • And it's such a special thing.

  • I don't think I could've done this moment

  • with anybody else in the world but her.

  • Okay, so this was a custom look

  • for the Obama state dinner for Singapore.

  • This was 2016, I launched my brand in 2015.

  • So this was a year into my business

  • for the ultimate American moment.

  • Am I gonna start crying on Glamour right now?

  • May I have my coffee?

  • So this is a silk crepe, an ivory silk crepe.

  • This was 14 yards of fabric.

  • We built a body form that matched Mrs. Obama's

  • and we made it on her.

  • It was constructed by hand, nothing was put under a machine.

  • There are intricacies that are involved

  • with a white dress which is that you have to wear gloves

  • and you can't put it on the floor.

  • And then when you send it it has to be wrapped

  • and things can get dirty very easily.

  • And then this type of crepe that we used on this

  • is a very, very nice crepe.

  • But also it absorbs liquids very quickly.

  • The top, the bustier here is lined with neoprene

  • to hold the structure.

  • Now I'm giving away all my secrets.

  • Everything has neoprene in it.

  • So there was also from the back a removable train.

  • So this was a column dress from the front

  • as you can see here.

  • And then this whole train was removable.

  • You know I think that sometimes

  • the intricacies of the design can get lost

  • when it's taken apart and put on a machine.

  • For this one I was really particular about

  • these two layers coming off the body in 3D.

  • I just didn't think that it was something we could take off

  • and put into the machine.

  • I think it had to be basted by hand first

  • and then handsewn.

  • I just, you know, and it's the First Lady

  • of the United States.

  • You wanna give her the hand quality.

  • We worked after hours on this dress.

  • We did not work on this dress

  • while people were in the office.

  • And obviously we did not want anyone to know

  • who the dress was for.

  • Because we wanted to respect the privacy of the First Lady.

  • So we had it locked away in my office during the day

  • when people were working and then we worked

  • late at night after 6 o'clock ourselves on this

  • once everybody left for the day.

  • So only two people knew about this dress.

  • So when this was happening I was in Austria.

  • I was in the hotel room by myself

  • and it was happening at 6 o'clock in DC

  • which is midnight in Austria, I think.

  • So they got C-SPAN.

  • First time I ever watched C-SPAN in my life.

  • And so the thing is that you can go on

  • the White House website and it shows the schedule

  • of the First Lady and the President every day

  • and they're always on time.

  • So I knew that she would walk out at 6:02.

  • So I'm like 6:01, I'm counting down 60 seconds.

  • I'm like maybe, and then the door opens,

  • and maybe I will cry, and she walks out in this dress

  • and it was a moment that changed my life.

  • I was like, this is the American dream.

  • And then President Obama,

  • can you imagine watching that live on television?

  • That the president then puts his thumbs up.

  • I know it wasn't for me obviously,

  • it was for his beautiful wife.

  • But in my mind it was for me.

  • I was screaming so loudly in that hotel room.

  • I took my shirt off, I was sweating.

  • I had to walk around town by myself and breathe.

  • I was looking at every person

  • like what did you do today?

  • I just dressed the First Lady,

  • to anybody who would listen.

  • Nobody spoke the same language.

  • Anyways, I'm in another country,

  • I'm watching our First Lady walk out,

  • wearing a dress of mine.

  • In the time of that administration

  • I had built an American business

  • and my American dream had come true

  • and it is just still the greatest moment for me.

  • So now this is Karlie Kloss at the 2016 Met Gala.

  • This was the first time I had ever made a look

  • for the Met Gala.

  • The first time I met Karlie I was a stylist assistant.

  • I was working on a Christian Dior advertising campaign

  • shot by Stephen Mizell.

  • She was 15 years old I think, or 16 years old.

  • When she walked in the door I was like

  • that has to be the most beautiful person I've ever seen

  • in my life and she was so full of life

  • and she had cookies in her hand of course.

  • Full circle moment, Karlie and I

  • are on a TV show together now.

  • But we've been very good friends throughout the years.

  • But the great thing about this is

  • because Karlie has been a model for so many years

  • and she's worked with so many designers

  • she is very, very good at standing in a room

  • and sometimes when you're making something on someone

  • they have to stand for hours.

  • And she stood there like this the entire time, for hours.

  • And I think I made in the end

  • three of the exact same of everything.

  • 'Cause she was wearing white again

  • and I knew that the Met Gala was a party

  • so people are gonna be drinking

  • and that someone might spill something.

  • And if something gets on her she needed to have a backup.

  • So this was a white gazar cape.

  • It was actually more ivory in person.

  • I still love this little baby bow.

  • So what I wanted to do is I wanted her to change many times.

  • Which now that I'm thinking about it

  • I guess is a thing that I do at the Met.

  • Maybe that's my thing.

  • Which is funny now because on the TV show

  • I guess I'm known for saying reveal over,

  • which I never really realized.

  • But I guess that's become a theme in my work.

  • So I wanted to make this very sweet, clean, covered look.

  • This is all hand cut here, so it's all on the bias

  • so you can see that it's very floaty.

  • This was many, many layers.

  • I don't know how many yards was in this.

  • This must have been close to 20 yards.

  • It looks very simple but it was when she walked

  • it was everyone of these layers was cut out

  • and folded under the other

  • so it created quite a sweep when she walked.

  • Anyways, back to the bow.

  • I was obsessed with this bow.

  • I'm still obsessed with this bow.

  • Like I think about this bow all the time.

  • And here is her reveal.

  • Once again, this dress was lined with neoprene.

  • This was all hand cut on Karlie's body.

  • So this started as a full shell

  • and quite literally I took,

  • the scissors were this long,

  • and she stood there with her arms out

  • and every single line was cut on her.

  • This fabric has a little bit of a stretch

  • and a great weight and super bouncy

  • and it really moves really really well.

  • Let's take in the back.

  • Wow, she's killing it.

  • She called me on her way home from the Met Gala

  • and she was like something got spilled

  • on the bottom of my skirt.

  • And I said no problem, and she said,

  • "Let's just put the other one on,

  • "the double of it, and I'll wear it out."

  • and I was like, let me just cut this one on you

  • so you can have the full dress

  • clean and in your closet forever.

  • I can't remember if it was above the knee,

  • I think it was above the knee.

  • But in her hotel room I just hunched down on the floor,

  • and I cut the dress, I think it was a little shorter,

  • it was like here, cut it on her,

  • we threw a jacket on, it was like just super whatever,

  • great collar, easy, easy, short,

  • she had great heels on, boom she went out.

  • That was it.

  • This type of fabric also doesn't really fray so much.

  • And this is pretty tightly woven

  • so if you cut it clean there's really not a need to hem.

  • And of course for it to be nice if you're going out,

  • the bottom of this dress you can see

  • it's very nicely hemmed in real life.

  • It took probably a day and half to hem that.

  • But you know, when you're going downtown for a party

  • I think it's fun, why not cut the dress.

  • No one at the after party of the Met

  • is being like is the dress hemmed at the bottom?

  • Everyone's like that moment has already passed.

  • I think that fashion should be fun

  • and I think that people should enjoy their moment.

  • And, you know, why not?

  • She's going to a party downtown, why not cut it off?

  • I'm not trying to make art,

  • I'm trying to make women feel good

  • and I tell anyone that I'm making a custom look for

  • don't think about what I would like, it's your moment.

  • Glamour, it was glamorous.

  • Thank you.

- Hi, I'm Brandon Maxwell and we're gonna go over

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ブランドン・マックスウェルのアイコニックなドレスの細部まで。レディー・ガガ、ミシェル・オバマ、カーリー・クロス (Every Detail of Brandon Maxwell’s Iconic Dresses: Lady Gaga, Michelle Obama & Karlie Kloss)

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    林宜悉 に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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