Name: 私は私自身の2080Tiウォーターブロックを作ったし、結果は非常識です (I made my OWN 2080Ti Waterblock and the results are INSANE!)
Uploaded: 2021-01-14T10:06:32.000Z
Duration: 12 min 38 s
Description: VoiceTubeの動画で発音を聞きながら英語表現を覚えよう！学べる英語：

程度の副詞

you know, here, Jace, to sense we've done some experiments that I'm not ashamed to admit that I'm pretty proud of.

But, you know, none of those really compared to what I think we're going to achieve today, M s.

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So it's obviously r TX season, and I'm trying to think of ways to make it exciting and interesting on what it's gonna be probably pretty repetitive content from all of your favorite tech YouTubers.

We've all got different perspectives on the cards, but you know what I've never done around here is actually taken on my own custom attempt at water blocking or water cooling.

Whatever you wanna call it, a card that wasn't designed for.

It's what we have right here is the G force.

Artie eso said GTX RDX, the RDX 2080 from E V.

J is a reference PCB based on the exact design that is sent over from in video.

What we have right here in front of me is actually a completely disassembled 28 e t I.

You could see what looked like beforehand in case you've never seen it.

Which does a great job at keeping the theorems and the core extremely cool.

We've got a heat plate right here for the V R EMS thermal pad on both sides.

I mean, this thing just looks like a cruise ship.

And then here is the bear P c b of our T X.

But you know, there's another YouTuber who does similar stuff to these custom cooling config Sze that being Mr Steve from gamers nexus.

Now Steve has been known to take a iose and, um, do custom cooling and rigged those up.

Very Jerry rig, just to see what happens when you get them on.

Water usually leaves the PCB or another piece of you, but the V.

R M is exposed with air cooling which he says is perfectly fine.

And I agree because the thermal limits of them these are extremely efficient design that also cools very well by just blasting them with air.

And if all goes according to plan, we will also have water cooled v R ems by the end of this video.

Now, one of the reasons I'm using the V G A card is because I can actually retain this cooling plate, which will give me better heat dissipation from the V.

Because of all of these thermal pads, I think they've clearly learned from their lesson in the past, with the theorems overheating on the 10 80 on 10 80 i cards.

But there's this just is kind of a stroke of luck, I think, because when everything is in place here, push this down and Manus does that stick good.

You can see that the actual adhesion of the thermal pad is what's holding the entire weight of the card.

This right here, if you don't recall, is my like $20 water block was like $17 I got off Amazon.

It's pretty much just a base plate with all of the high fin densities milled into it.

These are the screws right here that the back plate screws into.

So the back plate screws through here through the back plate and holds everything down against the PCB, sandwiching the cooling plate in the back plate together on the PCB.

So that means that this place is going to be mounted to the card.

No, I got really lucky that this fits in here and it touches the dye and is only about a millimetre off of this backing plate.

And all of the screws actually line up with these four inter screws to where I can mount this down to the backing plate so I don't have to use screws passing up through the PCB.

I don't have to worry about measuring and having it be tilted, so the first thing I'm gonna do is actually gonna put half of this back together.

I'm gonna put the back plate back on here and screw it all down because doing it this way also means that I get to retain all of this cooling from the back plate.

Now, the reason why I'm not using the screws that come with the block and have the spring load on there is there a different diameter from the ones I'm screwing down onto right here That would have made things just so much easier.

But in the spirit of modeling and think, God, Evie G.

A actually makes the threading on these these nuts, like all the way through and not just partially.

Otherwise, I won't able to screw in from this side because this is normally designed to screw in from the backside.

But this is actually starting to look entirely too professional, in my opinion, like this looks like it was almost intended for this.

Now, this doesn't have to be held on like, super tight.

We just need to keep it from moving around.

So as soon as I get all foreign there, then snug her up Now, the reason why I'm not using the Ikea water blocks or something like that is because this, uh, plate that comes with this water block had Maura adjustment.

So it's a big oblong hole instead of a regular round hole.

So the Ikea water blocks was too far apart, and so it didn't allow me to actually able to use that.

And the water block also would have probably not fit inside the square, allowing me to still use the plate like I wanted.

So this is Ah, I think we're looking okay here like that.

So, technically, that's now water cooled core right there.

And I I think this looks pretty damn good if I don't say so myself.

Now the other thing I really want to do here.

This was actually for a gig by X 99 motherboard, and this was the V R M cooling kit chipset in cooling.

But I've still got this block which was never used for anything.

And if you actually look at the diameter of it, it hangs over the side where I can actually access those screw holes.

So I'm thinking about trying to mount this down somehow like this, but I have to come up with some sort of a mounting mechanism now that can screw into those holes and hold this in place.

All right, so this is actually coming together pretty well.

So this is one of the reservoir amounts that come with the singularity computers, reservoir kits.

And they sent me kind of a bunch of them, and this was actually perfect.

It's gonna be my back strapped right here to hold this on.

And the whole spacing was actually perfect between, uh, not the outermost holes of the innermost holds the bottom hole in an inter hole there.

So it's going to stick up a little higher on the top of the card.

That should still clear anything on the motherboard.

That's my only concern Now is where this hangs down.

So I guess I should get a motherboard now, okay.

Normally, this touches the V R ems directly on a motherboard, so it uses a thermal pad.

But because we are now going metal to metal with a heat spreader here that's conducting heat through a thermal pad already, I am hoping that there will be enough thermal conductivity.

And I'm gonna pre spread it on here because I don't want to squish out the sides.

So I'm hoping we'll get enough thermal conductivity this way so that it will be beneficial.

I'm also gonna be placing it right on top of where the actual V R EMS are.

Now, if you look carefully in here, I don't feel can get in there.

You can see the gray thermal pad, although the heat will spread throughout this whole heat plate.

Obviously, that's the only surface area I have to deal with.

So I'm gonna put that directly on top of it.

That way it can get a more direct path of cooling.

I'm hoping that that's gonna be enough to get the job done.