Siri's of figures here from Bandai.

I've taken a look at a couple of them before, and they're pretty cool, sort of like larger March, more articulated version of of Converge figures, sort of.

They do have somewhat esti style proportions to thems, and they're pretty nicely detailed.

But they could definitely use some work, a little bit of detail, paintings and kind of linings and decals on there, and they'd be looking really sharp.

So we're just gonna go ahead and take a look here at the Nightingale today and just how it looks, the box and what's in the box, What figure looks like and all that.

And then we work on it a little bit more later.

But for now here is the front of the boxes is a larger sized blocks.

Then the other couple next edge style figures that have reviews for in the past.

Obviously, with the nightingale just being a larger design, it does kind of make sense.

So you have a nice picture there on the front and the window here can see into some of the parts that they're on the inside on top of the boxes.

Next style logo, their bottom of the box, a nice big image there of the nightingale and the same thing on the side as well, Just different angles.

Looking at the nightingale on this that we do have some different action poses.

So he's got a couple different action poses here with the beam rifle, the beam acts and then this a back shot there to see all the nice details there on the back side of the box and see an image there also with the next said style Hi New Gundam, Which is when I would probably like to get if I had a chance to get it for a good price.

I'd like to pick that up.

That's pretty much it here and speaking on of the price this kid goes for around 40 bucks, so it's sort of like your mid level choice.

If you're a fan of the Nightingale, the RD 100 was going to be the largest and most expensive version.

The STC s version is also quite nice and certainly a lot cheaper.

But if you're looking for something in between, you've got this.

Now, the downside of this, of course, is that the figure, not a kit.

You can actually build it yourself.

Although, as you can see, there is going to be some assembly required.

It's not going to be the same as just building a normal kits.

So in first in our tray here, we've got the main body, the binders, the acts, the shield and the rifle, and then in behind that.

We've got another bag of parts here with some fuel tanks.

Looks like in there some of the standard parts.

Things like it does have a couple of effects parts for the funnels, I believe.

And then the base for that as well, which is actually made up of three parts there for the base.

So take a look at all of that in a moment.

First off, just the instructions here as well.

We have the Nightingale operations manual basically destroying you, how to install the different parts and then how to put the base together for that.

So pretty simple there.

I'm sure you can figure it out.

Let's take a look at parts taking a look at the main body here first can see we have some pre painted gold there for the logo on the chest that is molded in there.

So if you wanted to, like, you're gonna repaint that given repaint that pretty easily.

That said, the logo down here is not a raised details.

So that's just a just printed on there.

And if you were gonna recreate that, you'd need a detail for that.

Now, this one you could just repaint just using a reverse wash technique or something.

We're really carefully by hand if you want it to go that route.

But we also have some pre painting in these white parts here, the white events there on the side of the chest, on the front of the dong.

And then we have some great parts pre painted there around in the joints.

These great parts here and here are actual molded parts in gray and this fuel tank here, the pair of fuel tanks underneath the basket.

This also looks like it's just a white part.

It's not pre painted, so let's take a look around here.

You can see of Aton of detail up beneath the feet.

Nice thruster details there and there.

These are definitely gonna be need to be painted there in the side.

Scare a lot of nice little panel lining, uh, detail.

Opportunity is here, around on the side of the arm, and it's a ton of detail here.

So once this is all detailed up, it's going to look much, much better.

You can see we have the bill events here on the front of the skirt, also that need to be painted in in the correct color and detail.

All looks pretty nice now, as far as the feel of it.

It does feel a little bit loose, but that's pretty much the same feeling that I've experienced with the other figures that I've worked with.

It's got the other parts here.

Got the same a molded detail there on the front of the shields.

Again, if you're going to repaint that, you could just a reverse wash that if you want it.

But just to raise detail there for that gold on the shield, the be Max is just also painted in gold or just like a really bright yellow gold.

You can see it is different from the cold used on the suit.

So that's nice, kind of wish.

That was maybe a clear part.

But it doesn't look good like that as well, too is very bright, so I mean, that looks good on the binders.

Of course, these funnels look like they can eat to be removed, and you got some nice detail, actually on the funnels as well.

So there's actually look quite nice when they're removed from their better than the SD version, that's for sure.

On then, up underneath there, you got some nice All the Forrester's up in there as well, so he's going to be plugged into that.

I don't think there's a left or right side to them.

There should be the same on the back of the she.

Only two got some empty, ugly detail there, but hopefully it's not gonna be too noticeable.

Dallas, plug here onto the back of the arm and the rifle.

Here, it looks like this is just all painted in this kind of a little bit dark silver color.

Not really a big fan of this color, to be honest, I wish this was darker, even like a really dark gray or something.

It's very shiny.

So if you wanted to leave some of the details shiny, you could just, like, paint in some other parts of it And just leave some parts in that shiny silver as you have it.

Now that metallic silver just another couple quick things regarding this is that if you remove the front of the head here on inside, you can rotate the mano.

I just turn that you go to the left to the right and then just pop that back into place in here on the head like that also will just point out that the kids in general doesn't really have anything in the way of seam lines, for the most part, except for here on these fuel tanks.

Each of these fuel tanks here on the back does have a seam lines on the side of it, but it's not really very noticeable.

This white is pre painted, and so the paint kind of covers up the sea mine a little bit, and so you're not really gonna notice that too much, I think.

But if you were going to, like, repaint this or at least just repaint this part, you would have to go in and separate those and then just go and get some glue in there, do all the sand, everything to get rid of the seam.

And then you could have to repaint that everything.

So also for a quick size comparison here it is compared with your average size HT 1 44 scale Gundam.

So you can see it's gonna be not really all that big a figure.

It's gonna be pretty small, all right, once everything's open together than here is how it's gonna look and it looks pretty awesome.

There is another shield character piece that I did notice in their first that she'll connect Earpiece allows you to plug a shield onto the side of the arm, which is much better.

But that said, now, then the shoulder joint to the elbow joint is a little bit weird, so holding that is a little bit awkward.

But as with this kid, if you're familiar with any version of the Nightingale is just awkward mobile suit In general, there's no version of this that isn't awkward, but it looks pretty good.

The fuel tanks plugged into the back there also look nice as well everything.

Just the scale, proportions, everything.

I've said this in the past one.

I'm talking about the SD kit and I feel it's the same for this one.

I think the Nightingale, in its proper proportions like the already 100 kids, is so over the top when it's shrunken down into a sort of STD scale.

And this is like, sort of in between.

It's not quite as est ease proportions as the SD cross the Let kids but still sort of SD in his proportions unless he kind of looks better like this than in its full proportions.

So no, that's just my personal opinion, but I really like the look in the scale, the proportions of this, and I think this is probably safe to say, my favorite version of the Nightingale just in terms of the proportions of it.

The details.

I'm not totally sold on all the details of this version.

It's a little bit overly detailed for my taste in some areas on, I think, probably the best version.

The best looking nightingale out there honestly, I would have to say, is probably the Robot Dongshi version, But it's also I think, the most expensive one.

So that's the tradeoff.

Know things that we do also have the standard parts for this.

Let's go ahead and check those out as well.

It's like I said, we got three of these base plates which are the same, and they have a cool locking mechanism.

You just fit them together like that and they popped together like so Stay.

There you go.

And I like to those 50 things like that and you don't need Thio use like a separate peace in there for that.

It's just really simple like that.

And we have three of them which will fit together.

But I want to see what we can do, not using all three of them now.

The reason we have three of them is because, of course, this is a pretty large designed, so you kind of need three of them to get the full effect there may be, but we also have here.

This is the extension arm here for just plugging up underneath the mobile suit, obviously, so you can plug that into any one of these holes around there.

Then we also have four of these little arms and these air gonna be for the funnels.

So each one of these arms here has two points of articulation.

You can bend it there.

He commended there.

And so, of course you can rotate that.

So they used to be able to move around pretty nicely.

Take out one of the funnels and plug this onto their and it seems to be your standard size three millimeter pay there for that.

So if you have a different standard, something from Bandai or human stands from Kabuki should be able to use that on there.

Like so.

Then we also have here a set of six of these risers.

You know, these were meant to be for like, if you have multiple next style figures, you meant to plug these into here and then make like, raised level like this, you can have, like, one gun down here, and they're gonna raise level B basically can make your own life display stand for them by using these risers there.

So, like I said, according to the main, you're supposed to use all three of these together here like that.

But I think if we used to and then raise have one up above upside down.

We can have a couple of the funnel effects pointed down like that, which would be pretty interesting as well.

Someone I'd give this a try here, There we go.

Something like that.

In a way, I think you guys get the idea that the problem with this is that you can to use this stand here.

Then that'll make it too tall.

It won't fit underneath this.

So in order to be able to put this up above, you need Thio.

Just have it.

Just stood on the bases like that, but it works.

Something like that could work pretty well if you want to have these flying above because these extension arms here, the effect parts there for holding the funnels are not very long.

Seven moon is plugged into the base down below.

They're only going to be coming up so high.

And they kind of look better if they're like flying around the air.

Maur like, ah, pyre.

I think so.

Having them up something like this, I think, seems a little bit more realistic or seems like this would make sense little bit more for how they finals.

Like would essentially be flying around little suit like that.

But another option that you could also use is some of these just clear plastic beams here.

Three millimeter clear plastic beams, for example.

These air from Tommy of other companies make them just a set of these plastic beams of plastic pipes that you can use just to.

Then you can heat them thio, curve them and make your own beam effect parts like that essentially, if you want to make longer ones.

So there you have it, guys.

4 40 bucks, I think, overall, not a bad figure at all.

I think it's definitely going to look better once we go in and do some more work on it as it is a straight on the box.

It looks fine, but it's gonna look great once we've got it detailed up and all that.

So really happy with this.

I like this quite a bit.

I don't plan on fully repainting the entire thing, although that is something that you could do.

Of course, if you want it as well, it's just that in my opinion, if you want to do that, I would say Just go ahead and go for the SD cross the diversion.

It's a great little kits, although not going to be as highly detailed as this version, and doesn't come with the stand in effect farce and things like that.

How you have a little bit of a trade off there.

But anyway, you guys have any further questions or comments about this.

Feel free.

Leave those down below.