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Okay, so what I've got here are four different coolers from course air.

They sent these over specifically for us to do this talking head piece, but what?

We're gonna talk about is not features We're not talking about RGB we're not gonna talk about any of the RGB fans are software.

We'll talk specifically about the two components that matter most in all the one water cooling loop, that being the radiator and the fans Now the pump and all four of these is pretty much the same.

They're based off of it, a Sitek design.

So there's ah, there's the less similarities between all four of these.

What you're gonna find here is that what we're gonna talk about today is going to apply to most brands.

So you could take some of the confusion I've about being well, General, I'm not getting a course.

They're cooler.

That's okay because we're gonna talk about here on the specifics in terms of sizing is going to carry over with the only difference really being the fan designs, the rpm static pressure and that sort of stuff.

So let's get started.

It's what we have here is a small, medium and large offering from Corsair.

But the information I'm going to tell you today or at least provide you today is not specific to Corsair themselves.

But they were, of course, kind of sent over the visual aids for me to talk about this.

So we've got here is the H 60 the H 100 i pro and the H 1 50 I pro.

And as you can see, obviously, as you move from your left to right, this is a single 1 20 a duel 1 20 a triple one tweet.

This is kind of the norm.

Now we've seen other size of sort of pop up 200 eighties, which are 140 millimeter fan variance and stuff.

But that's just because we have seen we're seeing a lot more cases start to support 140 millimeter radiators that you're starting to see that but the information to give you here regarding 1 20 is applicable to 140 millimeter fans as well.

Now, one of the things you have to keep in mind before you can start to decide which cooler is best for you is what case are you using?

Those are the two things that arm or responsible, incompatible with each other in terms of you picking out your parts, then the sea pua.

Why people might go well I've got a 1900 case, so this isn't going to get the job done because that's a hot CPU.

Well, no, to be honest, this would actually do a great job, but cooling a stock speed 900 k and keeping it well below TJ Maxx.

The issue here is going to be if you try and get a 360 millimeter radiator, but cram it into some sort of an I T.

X case or a mid tower that is not going to be able to support a 360 or it's not gonna have the space between the top of the case and the motherboard or even on the front.

Then it doesn't really matter what superior running cause.

It's not going to fit now.

The other thing that you want to keep in mind when it comes to these is there max wattage that they're capable of dissipating or their max rating?

This is one of those formulas that you kind of have to take with a green assault because just like fan statistics, a lot of companies will like to show the best possible rating, which is usually going to be in a non restrictive open environment where the fan has nothing in front of it.

Nothing behind it, No case, no radiator.

It's just sitting here on the table in the amount of static pressure and airflow that it could move max rpm under those conditions.

Once you stick it in a case or you put a fan on the radiator or you have any sort of resistance, that number could fall off sharply and quickly if the fan is not up to par when it comes to the task being given to it.

So what?

You're gonna need to keep in mind, though, that what seems like a tigress conversation does tie in is because the fan and all of these plays a very big part.

Interestingly enough, all three of these do not have the same fan attached to them.

You could also have a low rpm, low static pressure fan that would cause the temperatures in this H 60 to climb versus having a high static, pressure high rpm fan at the sake of noise is going to then bring the temperature's down.

So what, you're gonna find other ratings on the box?

They're usually going to be dependent on the fan that comes with the kit at its Max rpm, which is also gonna be its most noisy.

You'll find one twenties to be the most common ay, ay O's that are included with things like graphics cards and hybrids and stuff like that, because I've always found that a single 120 millimeter radiator is more than enough to cool off a single non over clocked component sixties.

Also gonna be a great solution for small form factor cases I t.

X cases or anywhere where you can't get a large air corps.

The thing was, single 120 millimeter radiators is because you have to run a fan at higher speeds with higher noise to get you know, Max Cape cooling capability of this heat exchanger.

You start to encroach into the area where big air coolers cool Justus Well, if not better, something like a knock to a big cooling tower versus a single, 120 millimeter radiator.

The difference is you're much more likely to be able to fit vics this in an I T.

X case, then, like a knock to a D 14 or whatever.

So this is where sizing is more important with your chassis than the actual CPU itself.

Now, if you've got the room and you want to step up and maybe deal with a little bit of over clocking and you want to kind of push your C p a little farther, maybe apply the turbo clock to all your tours without increasing the clock speed, you're gonna find that the 240 millimeter variant or to 120 millimeter fans is going to be the sweet spot.

This is where most people shop.

This is the most common size you're gonna find for any a Iot, regardless of the brand.

Because most cases on the market very few do not support a 120 millimeter double or a 240 millimeter radiator.

Now, what you're gonna find here is that this is not double the cooling capacity of this.

There is a diminishing return as you move up in sizing.

It's a diminishing return, exponentially flattening what you say.

What?

He said a seven potted.

Interestingly enough, the 2 40 variant of all three of these, although they both belong to the same family of cooler, the 2 40 has the highest rpm rating of the fans.

Although all three of the fans look like they have the gray blades, they're like aesthetic pressure off to my span.

This one is Paedo BM controlled up to 2400 rpm.

So what that means is, if you're able to say I don't care about the noise, I care about the cooling.

Then you could set this to its Max rpm and just go balls to the wall with cooling and also balls to the wall with volume.

So there's something you want to keep in mind.

What we have seen kind of come to market more over the last couple of years are the 360 millimeter variants.

Now what you're gonna find with this is a lot more cases are supporting three sixties on the top, many of which are now supporting three sixties on the front.

What this allows you to do is gain more cooling capacity, more thermal capacity of the actual heat exchanger with a 360 millimeter radiator.

You are capable of running the fans at a lower speed, a lot less intrusive, but you have more air volume going through the heat exchanger, which means better cooling.

It's slower to heat up.

It's quicker to cool down, and you can allow yourself to have bigger over clocks without having to intrude in your space in terms of volume.

So the actual heat exchanger size itself is only part of the formula.

I think a lot of people get caught up on that where they care more about the radiator size itself, then the fans, which are responsible for moving air through the radiator.

If you were just to let these radiator sit static or a passive and no air is moving through them whatsoever, all three of these would eventually overheat.

Because if you don't have air moving through this, taking the heat out of this, which is taking the heat out of the fluid and exhausting it to the atmosphere, what's then being dissipated?

These do nothing.

So Fanschoice is Justus important.

Fortunately, with the Corsair coolers here, they are a standard PW unplug, so you don't have to worry about any sort of proprietary connector with changing out your fans.

And so what a lot of people will often do is they'll take their favorite a Iot has features that they want, where there be RGB or expandability or whatever.

Then what they'll do is they'll take their favorite fan back in the day, one of the most popular fans out there for water cooling where the gentle typhoon, unfortunately, they're not made me more.

There are the brands that are similar, but the gentle typhoon was king that was the fan to have on your radiator's if price was no object, and cooling was the most important desire of your water cooling loop.

Now all three of these coolers are designed with either a push or pull config.

And that's another thing we're not going to really get to in depth on this video.

We talked about Push pull in the past.

We'll do another test moving forward.

We do a push pull config unsee, which cools better.

That's something that's usually up for debate.

There's a lot of configurable variables that can impact those results, so it's kind of hard to come up with anything that's concrete.

But all of these air designed with either a push or pull, whether it's pulling the air through the red or pushing the air through, you're only gonna have enough fans for one side of the radiator.

But one thing you're gonna find that really varies between brands in terms of a iose are going to be the features, of course, their features.

The ICQ software, which allows you to control your pump and it can integrate with all your other course their products.

Unfortunately, they do have standard plugs for the p W M circuit.

We've got RGB on the pumps, which are integrate into any other RGB set up that is, in your particular system, the where.

The 2 80 VH 1 15 I now these.

This one actually features RGB fans as well, where all three of these just feature a basic static pressure.

P W M family.

Just a great blade.

But this one here actually is.

It's kind of the newer line.

It's the platinum line, so you can get this in various sizes as well.

It's just a different family of cooler that features, as I said earlier, 140 millimeter fan.

So you can you can get a lot of cooling capability out of your a Iot and reduce the cost.

If you're not interested in all the RGB features and such something else that could kind of impact.

The price of your cooler is also the quality of the materials that are used.

So the age 60 because it's designed to be more of an entry level, get the job done.

Not as many extra features to keep the cost low features just a rubber quarter inch tube like this.

It's it's highly flexible.

As you can see, I mean, flexibility is important.

That was the cover, not the levee broke, a promise that we'd like.

You have a rubber, too, because you can see here.

It's very, very flexible.

I'm not a fan of FTP tubing.

And if you see a cooler that's got F eet ftp, where it's just a flexible pipe and it's very rigid looking, those are very stiff.

They kind of wanted their own thing.

You can't twist them up as much, which makes it's my least favorite tubing on the market.

But as you move up the product line, you get a little bit more premium feature like the 2 40 here or the H 100 I pro features a sleeved tube, so it's basically the same tube is this, but it's got a sleeve ing on on top of it.

This is like a pair record type of sleeve, so this gives it more of a premium look and feel.

It's got the same flexibility as you'd expect, so you can mount this.

However you need it.

You get the cables to where you want them to be.

All of the coolers feature a rotate herbal fitting on the pumps.

You're not putting extra excess pressure on the barbs which could crack.

You don't want that over time.

And in the H 1 50 I pro is the same as the 100 only.

It's a 360 millimeter cooler, as we already talked about.

But I've got a lot of emails lately, um, asking me specifically about a iose and which one should they buy?

Because if there's one thing that is apparent is the A Iot market is heavily saturated, and not just by the fluid center.

Containing these, there's there are tons and tons of brands are brands that are just re brands of other manufacturers, like a Sitek.

There are brands that are featured bringing in the features that tie in with other systems are available like Corsair, but There are so many different brands from both very entry level basic companies to brands have been doing it for years.

There's a lot of confusion out there on what people need.

So in terms of priority for me, it is making sure you get the largest size that will fit in your chassis comfortably.

You might be able to fit it to 40 be may not be able to do it comfortably.

As I mentioned, not all cases will give you enough room between the top of the case and where your motherboard sits.

And if you're using any sort of over clock your gaming motherboard, it's probably gonna have a tall heat sink where the V R EMS go, which could impact on the fan because it's not just the thickness of the radiator that matters.

It's the thickness of the red plus 25 more millimeters to clear the actual fans.

So you have to keep that in mind whether they be on top or they'd be on the bottom so you might hold this up in your case and go Oh, yeah, that fits No problem.

It clears until you put the fans on and guess What now You can't mount your radiator in there if you're going with I t x case.

Um, one thing to keep in mind as well is, although you may be able to fit the radiator in the fan, are you gonna be supplying enough intake to the to the case to be able to supply the amount of air that this needs?

So this is exhausting.

A 120 millimeter fan.

It's an exhaust.

Is there any intake on the front of the I T.

X case or on the bottom?

On the top of whatever?