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  • Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.

  • Welcome back to our little-- little project on our 2008 Yamaha R6 motor.

  • Listen, we've gotten the block back from Lanecorp, where they were kind enough to punch it out

  • to a 6-3-6 kit, which we're going to need because we're actually installing a piston

  • kit from Wiseco.

  • Beyond that, we've got a ported head that was done by Star Racing in Americus, Georgia.

  • And a whole bunch of other parts that we're going to need to replace every bearing, seal,

  • and stretch bolt in the whole engine.

  • So if you're ready, we'll get all of this put back together.

  • So let's get started.

  • Alright guys, our skill level only goes to three, but this one's going to be a three

  • point one.

  • Let's go ahead and go through some of the tools that we're going to need to do this.

  • On your socket side, you're going to make sure you have a range from eight going up

  • to nineteen, but the one in particular is this 36 millimeter.

  • Make sure you have one of those.

  • As far as your ratchet, just a standard 3/8ths, then a quarter inch.

  • You want to have a couple extensions as well and then you're also going to need just one

  • 10mm box-end wrench.

  • A magnet, pick tool, a flat blade screwdriver, needlenose pliers.

  • As far as your Allen head side, you're going to need a 5, 6, an 8, and a 10.

  • Alright you will need one 30 what they call a Torx bit.

  • Other than that just a soft blow hammer, definitely going to need a piston ring compression tool,

  • a clutch holder tool, flywheel holder tool, and a decent torque wrench.

  • Alright, once you've got all that, you want to reference our drawings because this is

  • a lot to get put back together.

  • Now hopefully you've bagged and you've tagged and you've really organized things as you

  • were taking it apart.

  • If you didn't, if you look at our drawings it'll make more sense when we go to put it

  • back together.

  • As far as the parts you're going to need, well, find us at partzilla.com and get all

  • of those ordered and assembled and laid out in an organized fashion.

  • Once you've got all of that together, we can get started.

  • Alright, let's get started by reinstalling our head studs.

  • Just put a little bit of oil on each one of them before you put them in there.

  • Start them by just going in hand-tight to begin with, and then we'll use our extractor-slash-installer

  • tool to get them put back in to spec.

  • Remember you've got this oddball one that goes in that location.

  • You can see the threads at the top, so it'll be pretty obvious where it needs to go in.

  • Alright, let's snug them down a little bit.

  • And what we're going to do is torque them to around about eight.

  • That seats them in because there's a lot of actual what you want to call thread area that's

  • down in the block so it just needs to be seated in and that should be more than enough to

  • hold it in place.

  • And if you don't have a set of these, you definitely need to pick them up.

  • It makes life a lot easier as a stud extraction tool set, which also can be used to reinstall

  • them.

  • Just bottom out and put a little bit of torque on them, then they'll be ready when we actually

  • do install the head.

  • Alright, when we sent this off to get it bored and plated, we actually had to remove every

  • single bearing.

  • So, we're going to start putting those back in.

  • I'm starting with the shift drum.

  • Doing it a little bit old school here.

  • Using a socket that just happens to be the same diameter as our bearing to get it knocked

  • back in there.

  • Alright, next let's go ahead and get in what they call the axle drive bearing.

  • Take a little bit of oil and put it around the case where it's going to go in.

  • When you're putting this one in you want the sealed side to go to the outside.

  • So you want to be looking at the bearing-- the balls when you put it in.

  • When you're hitting it it will make a different sound when it finally bottoms out.

  • It'll kind of be a higher pitched "ting," and that's the sound you're looking for.

  • Yeah, she's flush with the edge and that's where we want it.

  • Let's go ahead and get in the second shift shaft bearing.

  • Just make sure you get it to go in there even.

  • Alright guys, the next part is a little bit tedious. when we sent it off to get this thing

  • bored and plated, they also removed these little nozzles that actually spray up to the

  • piston walls.

  • So we need to get those replaced.

  • And each one of these nozzles has an O-ring that goes on it, and it goes into this smaller

  • groove.

  • Be careful not to rip this little O-ring, it's pretty fragile.

  • That's what you want, right there.

  • Alright, let's get a little bit of oil on each one of these passageways.

  • On the O-rings themselves.

  • Now let's go ahead and push them into place.

  • Just use a small punch tool.

  • Tap them in very gently.

  • Just make sure you've got them lined up perfect when you knock them in.

  • Alright, let's start putting our transmission together.

  • First and foremost, we need to go ahead and get this little oil pipe back in place.

  • There's one O-ring that goes on the end.

  • And then the other two go up here.

  • Alright, a little dab of oil just to help them get in there, and then she just slides

  • right back in here.

  • A little tab goes into that indention right here.

  • That's it.

  • Next let's go ahead and get the main axle assembly put back in.

  • We can go ahead and put in our screws once we put a little Loctite on them and draw that

  • bearing back down.

  • This is actually a Torx head screw that we're using.

  • It's a T30.

  • Kind of go from side to side so that we can bring her back down evenly.

  • We want to go ahead and re-stake the end of the bolts.

  • And fortunately I didn't put them in at exactly the same point so we've got a place where

  • we can re-stake it into these little indentions right here.

  • That combined with the red Loctite should hold it together.

  • Alright, the shift drum and the shift forks, they pretty much have to go in at the same

  • time.

  • What you want to do is make sure the "C" is pointing out this direction.

  • Go ahead and start the shaft then we want to actually engage it into the gears and then

  • just kind of hold it up in place with a screwdriver.

  • You don't want to insert then end of this yet because we're going to have to put in

  • the shift drum and we want to engage it in that center area.

  • So, we've got that held up in place, and we'll go ahead and wiggle our shift drum in there.

  • Alright, now we can use a hook tool to hold up that shift fork and line it up to where

  • its shaft goes through.

  • There you go.

  • Next, go ahead and put in our other shift fork and it's going to have an "R" and an

  • "L" on it.

  • You want the "R" here and the "L"next to it and both of them facing this way.

  • There and there.

  • We're going to go ahead and put the shift rod all the way through it and then put on

  • these cover plates that actually hold these different bearings in place, as well as the

  • shift detent.

  • So, a little bit of Loctite on our bolts, and what we're putting in now is called the

  • shift drum retainers.

  • And you'll notice on each one it's got a little where it's actually out I mean it needs to

  • face outward towards you.

  • Alright, this first one actually has two purposes.

  • This edge holds this bearing in, and then this part holds this spring down.

  • Alright, the second one goes right here, and holds the outer edge or this bearing as well

  • as that other shift fork shaft.

  • Let's get our shift shaft back into place.

  • Before we do that we need to go ahead and put this post back.

  • Now, we can lower this in.

  • I never took any of this apart so it's going back in the same way it came out.

  • Now, we'll go ahead and put on that outer washer and circlip.

  • but the trick is you need to be really careful because we actually have the shift forks exposed,

  • so we just don't want to lay the block down on that.

  • We're going to give it a little bit of room on this piece of wood.

  • Now that'll go there and we can put in our circlip.

  • There.

  • She's in.

  • Now, let's go back.

  • We've got a couple of oil baffle plates that need to go back in place.

  • Let's go ahead and do that spring first-- like that.

  • Now let's work on our oil baffle plates.

  • One is up here.

  • A little bit of Loctite.

  • That's a Torx bit, it's a 30.

  • Another plate goes right here.

  • Same thing with the Loctite on the other three Torx bolts.

  • Alright, with all that put back together it's getting about time to go ahead and get those

  • pistons put in with the connecting rods.

  • What I want to do is move this table out of the way, go ahead and mount this to our engine

  • stand, and then we will continue.

  • So let me get this reshuffled and we'll be right back.

Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.

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ヤマハR6エンジンリビルトその1:ボトムエンドからピストン取り付けまで|Partzilla.com (Yamaha R6 Engine Rebuild Part 1: Bottom End to Piston Install | Partzilla.com)

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    Syuan に公開 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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