字幕表 動画を再生する 英語字幕をプリント - So in an effort to be slightly more efficient in all of the costume reviews that you seem to want me to do we're going to do a little 2020 year wrap-up of all the period dramas that have been released this year. And just to make things a little bit more exciting I have decided that we are going to be ranking these period dramas on a scale of historical accuracy. I have made up a chart. I have tons of notes, and we're about to rank these films and TV shows on a scale of "they tried :/" to *chef's kiss*. So I guess I should kind of clarify my tiers here. *Chef's kiss* is obviously like near perfection. There's a combination of silhouette that obviously looks convincing to the period. The materials that they use are appropriate as well as presence of tiny details, such as seams or stitching details or embroidery things that you can just tell that the designer did their research in order to find out those little things. Pretty good is the silhouette is probably convincing enough. There may or may not be a couple of seams that look a little bit obviously modern but we can let those pass because generally the costumes themselves don't pull us out of the realm of the historical context of the story. It was a Design Choice(tm). This category is sort of reserved for the element of fantasy. So I'm not about to allow any of these historical dramas to sort of cop out on "but this was a directorial vision". Yes, that's fair, if this is fantasy and it's not actually dealing with actual historical events, actual historical figures, or is meant to have been set in an actual period of history. If they're going to a fantasy realm, it's some alternate universe thing, OK, fair. It was a Design Choice. There is a separate category for blasphemous hair and makeup because the actual bane of my existence there are several instances in which the costumes are actually pretty good but the entire convincing-ness of the world of the historical film or show is just shattered. You cannot fully immerse yourself into the realm of the historical period because you are constantly being pulled out by the fact that her lip shade is like not quite right. And also why is she wearing bronzer? And then they tried is obviously like an attempt at history was made, but like not very successfully. We're basically just going to be judging the objective criteria of "is this historically accurate". So without further ado, we are going in order of US release. First on our list is "Little Women", which if you watched my compilation video on the worst costumes of all time, this film was on that list. We've discussed the UGGs, we have discussed the beach waves. This gets a solid... they tried? but were they even trying... remains to be seen but that's gonna live there. Second on our list is "Emma", which once again also made it onto not my worst costume compilation but my best costume compilation. we have already discussed the 10 out of 10 near perfection of "Emma", everyone basically looked like they were out of a fashion plate. It was beautifully designed. This gets a chef's kiss. I put Mulan on this list because I think it technically is a period drama. It does take place in fifth or sixth century, Northern China. It's based off of the original ballad of Mulan. So there is historical text to it. There is also a lot of fantasy. So this one is a little bit tricky because my particular realm of studies centers around English and American pre-World war one historical dress. So I can't say that I am very well-educated in the realm of six century Chinese dress, Northern Chinese dress. So I put this one on my list and I was like, I'll do some research. So three hours later, I had only just got up to the general overview of the Tang dynasty. And I was like, oh wow now I understand why historians choose one very specific little pinpoint of history and study that for their entire lives. So personally I am not qualified to deem this historically accurate or not. According to the background research that I did do, I am first and foremost, a little bit disappointed that they didn't hire an actual Chinese designer. And I know, I was watching some criticism from people who actually are more familiar with the cultural details. And one of the main criticisms of this was the fact that they were hiring white designers to do research into Chinese dress and not actually hiring Chinese designers who already have that background knowledge and who can then focus on building a world within the context of those historical foundations. To my untrained eye just based off of the artwork that I was looking at within this time period there does seem to be a lot of bright colorful dress happening, which is so superficial but they certainly did that within this film. The fabrics and materials that they use do seem to be convincing enough in terms of quality. Obviously, I haven't done the depth of research to get to the point where I understand what dyes were available and therefore what colors would have been available and what colors can be worn in what circumstances and with what, but just based off of the research that I did do the silhouettes look pretty okay, the colors look at least having existed within the period. There is definitely an element of fantasy involved. I mean, we are dealing with the realm of witches and people running up vertical walls, which is not... you know... reality. This is also a Disney film. And I know one of the main criticisms of trying to make Disney films historically accurate is that they are Disney films and they are fairytales and they are not historically accurate. Anyway, that is a very long-winded way of saying that. I do think the costume design was-- to my very unspecialized eye-- the costumes did look pretty okay to me, I'm going to put this in it was a Design Choice. (sigh) I think that is the best that I can do. So next on our list, we have Belgravia, it's a TV series. The beginning is set in 1815, and it sort of goes up through the 1840s. Initially from looking at the promo images of this, I was like, "oh my God". I was actually so excited for the show because obviously the book came out several years ago and I was like, oh yay Julian Fellowes wrote the book. I was like, oh, it's Downton Abbey. So it will maybe be good, but then I saw some promo pics and I was like, wow, this looks extremely modern. I guess the costumes are going to be a Little Bit Questionable, but the costumes were pretty good (sigh). I realized the thing that was throwing me off in the promo images that unfortunately, because sometimes the promo images are done up and shot before the actual thing is shot or they're done separately offset, not within the context of the actual shooting environment. So the promo images don't always reflect the actual costumes. Unfortunately, these kinds of did. The Appallingly modern hair and makeup did carry over into the actual series to the point where like, I can tell that you are definitely from the 21st century and you're putting on a bonnet and a soap frog. So unfortunately this one has to be classified in blasphemous hair and makeup. Next we have the English Game, which is a new Netflix TV series. This one is set in 1879 I believe is when the show begins. Once again, I have not studied the realm of sporting uniforms, so I cannot speak to the accuracy of the football uniforms. So here's the thing within period dramas, there tends to be this overarching phenomenon where the men's wear tends to be pretty much ok. It doesn't change a whole lot from mmh kind of from the beginning of the regency period up to the modern times. The women are overly made up again, the hair and makeup is just... frustrating. But then again, the women in the show are used as props and on flowers anyway. So does it really matter? Probably not! One thing that I did enjoy on this show is that because a lot of the story is spent in uniform on the football field, everyone is kind of dressed the same. They did capitalize on that late Victorian trend of EPIC men's facial hair and sort of extreme and varied men's facial hair, which was extremely clever because I was a bit worried just watching the show that I would not be able to distinguish one white man from the other white man, but they do "Oh yeah, okay, this is the guy with a large beard. This is the guy with a small beard. This is the guy with the little mustache." So I thought that was clever. I have nothing like serious again to complain about these clothes. I'm gonna put this in pretty good. So next we have another Netflix series. This one is called Self-Made. I have to go a little bit hard on this one because this is actually about a real historical figure, Madame CJ Walker, who if you don't know who she is, go Google her. She's like one of my favorite historical figures. She's the first self-made female millionaire in the United States. The show itself is entertaining, it's good. Unfortunately, the clothes are not good. It's supposed to be 1908 but you kind of can't really tell. They're using all sorts of materials, all sorts of laces and weird trimmings. They did not really look period at all. And I have to be a little bit more rigid with the historical accuracy judgment on this because it is not only dealing with actual specific years within history, but also about a specific person. Like the research is out there. I think it may have been deliberate because the way that the editing is done, it is very modern. When I was watching it, I was like, you know what? The only way that I can sort of describe this editing style is TikTok. It feels like TikToK or like YouTube editing not in a bad way because obviously we all find that entertaining, right? But it was definitely different to see that in a TV show. I will say the background characters, a couple of the background characters were actually really good. I presume this is because they made all of the principal characters and those were ~Designed~ but the background folk were rented or pulled from stock or something. And therefore there were existing costumes that are a bit closer to history. I will say though, that this show is unique in that though the clothes were not the best, the hair was really good, which obviously it should be because the show is about hair and hair styling.