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Decades on, the topic of North Korea remains a touchy subject.
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The world has passed judgment: the country is beyond repair.
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Our preconceived ideas about
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the Democratic People's Republic of North Korea remain firmly in place:
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An erratic, Orwellian regime?
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paranoid, schizophrenic, a place of modern-day gulags,
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a red dynasty, long headed by a despotic film buff,
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and now by his son, whose portly appearance is topped with a singular haircut.
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And then there's the country's nuclear arsenal —
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a threat that makes the self-proclaimed 'innocent'
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nations of the world tremble with fear.
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When it comes to North Korea, why do we so often resort to clichés?
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In light of the difficult and often tragic situation
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the country's people find themselves in,
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hyperbole seems rather inappropriate.
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We're often told that foreigners are not permitted into the country.
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That those who do manage to visit are not permitted to see much of anything.
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And that those who do manage to see something should remember
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it's probably fake.
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Someone once insisted to us that there were no high-rises in Pyongyang.
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A disorienting claim, given that one of us was living
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on the 24th floor of a building on Kwangbok Street at the time.
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This film was shot over a period of eight years by three people.
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One of us is a translator of Korean.
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Between us, we made more than forty trips to North Korea.
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But the film does not show prison camps or rocket launch pads —
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that's forbidden.
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As are images of soldiers, construction sites, shopping malls, gambling,
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pictures of people who do not have enough to eat,
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and pictures of people who are eating.
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Avoiding these images is harder than it might seem.
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Entering North Korea is still complicated.
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But foreigners are permitted to travel and explore the country,
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although they always have a local “minder.”
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Visitors are not required to proclaim their loyalty to the state.
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Nor do they only see what the state permits them to see.
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And it's a myth that you'll never hear laughter in North Korea.
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As soon as we leave the city, the roads are riddled with cracks and potholes.
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The bumpy journey is hard on drivers and vehicles.
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That could explain why broken-down trucks and buses are a common sight.
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Depending on the season,
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the workers in the fields might be harvesting wheat, rice, or potatoes.
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Although much of the country is mountainous,
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the rest is primarily devoted to farming.
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North Korea hopes to become economically self-sufficient someday.
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Every square meter of available land is put to use, even on the steep hillsides.
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But only barely 20 percent of the land is arable.
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This factory was not filmed in 1920,
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but in 2016 using a small camera while exploring the city of Hamhung.
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As so often in North Korea, appearances are deceiving.
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This is the country's largest fertilizer factory,
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which Kim Il-sung honored with more than 30 visits.
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It's recently been modernized
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in a bid to increase the productivity of the country's cooperative farms.
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Cooperative farms like this one,
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with its familiar oxcarts,
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geese and ducks, and the omnipresent red flags.
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Another visit to a collective farm, a year later.
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It's raining and everyone has gone to seek shelter.
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The productivity chart proudly displays the farm's yields.
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We take shelter in the living room of one of the farm workers.
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She tells us about the bitter cold winters,
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hot summers, and the backbreaking work in the rice fields.
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Her son is fourteen —
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small for his age, she admits, but the family has been through hard times.
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Her son was born just as the great famine was ending.
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Behind her, one of the country's ubiquitous historical melodramas
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is playing on TV.
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Then she launches into an vivid description of her visits to Pyongyang:
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In addition to the mausoleum of the Great Leaders,
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I visited the museum of the Revolution,
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the amusement park near the Leader's birthplace,
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the Revolutionary Martyr's Cemetery,
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the Science and Technology museum,
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and the Grand People's Study House.
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I went everywhere!
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Anyone from the provinces who visits the capital comes here first:
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the house where Kim Il Sung was born.
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The birthplace of the Republic.
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This is where it all started, they say.
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The Great Leader's training as a revolutionary,
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the resistance against the Japanese,
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the struggle against the evil landowners and collaborators.
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It's a story that's very familiar to people here.
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And as Kim Il Sung was the son of an ordinary peasant,
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he is also venerated as a role model.
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This is a place of pilgrimage year-round.
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In the winter, the buildings and grounds are decked in sober white.
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During our visit in 2011, we first saw
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local visitors wearing brightly colored winter coats, imported from China.
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By 2015, the classes of schoolchildren are wearing name-brand sweatpants,
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even though their sneakers don't quite yet make the grade.
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September brings the color of autumn and a pumpkin on the thatched roof.
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“In Pyongyang, everything is bigger, more modern, more beautiful,”
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we were told by the woman from the collective farm.
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The city has more of everything:
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more light, more shops, more food, more housing,
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more work, more education, more culture.
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Who wouldn't want to live here?
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The capital is more than the epicenter of the state, it's an icon.
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Our farmer would probably have been told that
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these exemplary buildings are home to exemplary citizens —
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scientists, soldiers, civil servants.
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Some of the most eminent live on the glossy new
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Mirae or Future Scientists Street.
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For a farmer from a village without so much as a paved road,
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this would be an impressive sight.
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And the people who live here seem to have plenty of time for leisure activities.
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Our visitor from the collective farm couldn't help
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but be dazzled by these high-rises,
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the most famous of which looks like an atom when viewed from above.
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And by the new districts springing up around the city,
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built with the labor of the country's soldiers and workers.
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But it would be very unlikely that our visitor
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would ever set foot in one of these apartments,
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reserved for the most worthy citizens.
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It's perfectly neat and tidy —
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though the residents have fled the camera.
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There's a computer, cell phone, books, and a sewing machine.
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The balcony offers a view across a city in the midst of a real estate boom.
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There's an abundance of color —
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quite the contrast to the grey that dominated here just 20 years ago.
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This real estate boom has given rise to a black market
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in Pyongyang and other large cities.
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When the state awards a faithful follower with a new apartment,
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they pass on the old one to the highest bidder.
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For a choice location, prices can easily top 100,000 dollars.
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And only a fraction of that is tax that ends up in state coffers.
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Karl Marx might have called this the 'primitive accumulation of capital.'
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A visitor's tour might end with a trip to an amusement park or a water park.
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One of Kim Jong-un's priorities is building 'playgrounds for the people.'
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The entrance fee? equivalent of two euros?
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isn't cheap by local standards.
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But everyone mingles and enjoys themselves.
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Even the adults get into the swing of things.
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I came with my group, but I don't know where my coworkers are.
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Now, I'm looking for them.
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I work at a large coal mine, an hour away from Pyongyang.
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I can't come often because of my work.
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Today we visited the Great Leaders' mausoleum, so I stopped by here.
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I like to come to Pyongyang to relax.
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After having fun like this, work comes more easily.
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What are you looking at? Go play!
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We've never been abroad. But now we have lots of water parks.
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Even at home, in our province north of Pyongyang.
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We will become the best in the world.
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Without anyone's help, just by our own hands.
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Any more questions? We're the best!
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Some of the rural visitors seem a bit lost in the crowd.
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But since many people don't know how to swim, no one really notices.
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But on state television nowadays,
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people can even tune in to swimming lessons.
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The sun is beginning to set.
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A good time to visit the city's main amusement park,
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beyond Pyongyang's Arch of Triumph.
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Like everywhere in North Korea,
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filming anything to do with the military is banned,
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but hard to avoid, because soldiers are everywhere.
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Some might call this nothing but 'bread and circuses.'
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But it's far more than that.
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There's hardly a North Korean who doesn't dream of living in Pyongyang.
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And every resident of Pyongyang is terrified of
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being expelled from the city for some foolish mistake —
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forcing them and their family to live in exile,
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for a few years or for the rest of their lives,
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in a place where they will have less of everything.
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With its lights and sights Pyongyang inspires loyalty.
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People flock to the parks and swimming pools to enjoy
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what is the most attractive city in the country.
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And even the world —
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for the people who live here at least,
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since their world ends at the North Korean border.
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We've never witnessed a birth in North Korea,
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but we have seen plenty of weddings.
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Or wedding 'preparations,' to be more precise.
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Like this professional photo-shoot,
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where the happy couple is posing in front of Pyongyang's most iconic locations.
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It's monsoon season, which means 38 degrees Celsius and very humid.
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The bride and groom first went to statues of the Great Leaders.
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Then we came the flower park you see here, near the water fountains.
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Soldiers usually like to pose in front of military monuments,
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like the Monument to the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War.
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What the wedding video doesn't show are
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the many people who helped make this happy event possible.
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In North Korea, most marriages are arranged through matchmakers.
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It's their job to find the ideal marriage partner who
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will also be suitable to the families.
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Although marrying for love is just starting to trend,
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arranged marriages are still the norm.
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One result is that people usually marry within their own social class.
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For many decades,
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the country's elite was dominated by the revolutionary comrades of Kim Il-sung,
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and their descendants.
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At the bottom of the social order were the families of people who
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had collaborated with Japan,
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and their descendants.
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In between were some forty sub-classes,
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who were not permitted to marry outside their rank.
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The end of Kim Il-Sung's regime, the famine under Kim Jong-Il,
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and the partial disintegration of both state and party that followed
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not only shook the country, but also its traditional social hierarchy.
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This helped loosen the stringent marriage rules.
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Today the most desirable professions for a husband are
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scientist, diplomat, the military,
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and, of course, business professionals.
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For years, women traffic police were highly sought after on the marriage market.
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But they're seen less often now, with the installation of traffic lights.
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Young couples are expected to have children.
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And their education will be put in the hands of the state at an early age.
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The country boasts a reported literacy rate of 100 percent —
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a success that is attributed to the revolution.
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The most important school subjects are math, physics, music and singing,
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Korean, and the lives of the Great Leaders.
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From kindergarten on, children are subjected to a rigorous selection process.
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The best students spend their holidays taking part in
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sports at the young pioneer camps.
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When we arrive at the stadium, the competition is underway.
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Each side is cheering on its team.
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The young charges aren't wearing the standard lapel pins
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bearing images of the Great Leaders.
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They're on holiday, and children under 16 aren't obliged to wear them.
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Then it's time for the tug-of-war.
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The evil American soldier in the middle is tough.
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He's already made it through several tournaments.
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Finding a good husband, having a successful career —
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these topics are far more interesting to most North Koreans than
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the endless propaganda they're exposed to.
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Getting married is important, and it's also the focus of
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the sitcoms that are broadcast on a giant screen near the central railway station.
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Locals stand here to watch them in the middle of December,
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even in a chilly minus 15 degrees Celsius.
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There's also an ad for automaker Pyeonghwa, which means “peace” in Korean.
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The company was founded by Sun Myung Moon's Unification Church,
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but has been fully owned by the state since 2013.
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The sitcoms portray a politically correct world.
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The individual matters only as part of the collective,
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where being a good worker is what counts.
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In the winter, everyone is responsible for a stretch of road.
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No matter how much snow has fallen, it has to be cleared.
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That's why scenes of people scraping snow and ice off their patch of road
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before heading off to the office are a common sight in the winter.
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For some unknown reason,