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Last week after a hangover that made me feel like my head was in a blender, I made a conscious decision to give up drinking alcohol.
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Not forever - wouldn't do that...
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But certainly for a few weeks - for a few months - to see what positive effect it would have on my everyday life.
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This week, my so-called friend Ryotaro surprises me with a trip to try a highly potent, illegal form of homemade sake.
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Coincidence! I swear.
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[CB]: Yeah, sure...
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Once thing I promise you... is that you're gonna get a hangover again.
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[CB]: Ohh, god.
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It's worth it though.
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As I've said before, drinking sake is a highly deceptive process.
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It looks like purified water and it tastes like the meadows of Narnia - it has a highly delicate flavor.
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But drink a bottle or two, and you will get the hangover to end all hangovers - not too dissimilar from drinking a bottle of wine.
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The sake we're trying today is not only cloudy in appearance, but it's also highly illegal to produce throughout most of Japan
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and we'll get on to why that is in a minute.
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But perhaps, above all, it's an absolute nightmare to pronounce.
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What is it again? D... Dubrovnik?
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'Do-bu-ro-ku'!
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[CB]: Doburoku...
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Yeah, that's right.
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The easiest way to remember it is it sounds like 80's pop sensation New Kids on 'doburoku'.
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[Ryotaro]: And you are a fan?
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I can't say I am-- or!
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Dwayne 'doburoku' Johnson!
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[Ryotaro laughs]
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Fun fact: I actually spoke with Dwayne the Rock Johnson last week! -- [R]: No fucking way!!
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Yeah! I spoke with him the other day.
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Ah, sounds like you've been drinking again.
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[CB]: No......
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Be prepared to be amazed over dinner, because I've got a story for you.
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... Unless you follow me on Twitter in which case you already know.
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[R]: And I'm not!!
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[CB]: You don't follow me on Twitter??
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No! Why do I have to?
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All my friends follow me on Twitter.
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--And that means I'm not your friend!
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[dunnnnnn]
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In a nutshell, doburoku is essentially unrefined sake that hasn't undergone filtering or pressing after fermentation,
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giving it a cloudy, creamy-like appearance.
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Before the 20th century, the drink was incredibly popular due to its simplicity and was home-brewed across the country.
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However, after liquor taxation laws were introduced in the 1800s, home-brewed sake in Japan was completely outlawed.
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The good news though is in recent years, home-brewing has reemerged in special zones,
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with the Japanese government currently permitting about 150 towns and villages across the country
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to brew, bottle and sell their very own doburoku.
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And in order to get our greedy hands on this rare treat for the first time,
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Ryotaro and I are travelling north to one such town called Tome,
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hidden away in the Miyagi countryside about an hour north of Sendai.
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But before we get to enjoy a bottle for ourselves,
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first things first we're gonna pitch in and help brew a fresh batch of doburoku.
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Given rice is the main ingredient in sake, it's essential to source nothing but the very best.
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And here in Tome, they're not only blessed with having some of the largest rice fields in north Japan,
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but they're also organic and free of chemicals for a pretty good reason.
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In the winter months, over 100,000 migrating birds journey over from Siberia to have a bird holiday.
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In effect, the rice fields of Tome become an enormous bird hotel.
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By accommodating the birds and avoiding nasty chemicals,
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the farmers of Tome have created a cheeky symbiotic relationship between nature and the local cuisine.
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So the rice has been harvested, polished, just been cooked, and now we've gotta dry it
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before it gets mixed with malt and yeast to begin the process of becoming sake.
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This is where I come in.
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Apparently you've gotta spread the rice out first.
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... And all over the floor, in my case.
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That's embarrassing... --[R]: I saw that.
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Change!
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[R]: 'Change'! Hehe! Change!
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[R]: It's so funny, like you with two housewives, hehe.
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So before the rice goes in the pot, it needs to be about 20ºC.
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It's currently about 30ºC, but the temperature's going down very quick - it was steaming about 3 or 4 minutes ago,
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and thanks to the fan, and these incredible hand movements, the temperature's gone down rapidly.
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It's hard work.
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Hehe.
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It's hard work.
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Mm.
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As doburoku is brewed in so few towns and villages, the essence of the drink is in its locality.
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Historically, rice farmers labored for long hours and lived off little income.
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And given refined sake is a pricey indulgence, instead of blowing all their pocket money, farmers started brewing their own.
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And here in Tome, they've kept that tradition alive.
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Every ingredient used in the brewing of doburoku, including the all-important yeast and lactic acid,
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has been harvested and cultivated within the town.
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It took over a year of trial and error to perfect and a relentless certification process from the government, but it paid off.
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Today, they can legally prepare and sell their very own delicious local brew within the town.
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So we've just put the rice into malt and yeast, and already it smells - it kinda smells like sake already.
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It's got that sweet fragrance to it - that sweet aroma.
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So this is left in the fridge for two weeks and it's stirred daily.
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And at the end of the two weeks, you should be left with 12% alcohol.
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It's not allowed to be called 'nihonshu', it's not allowed to be Japanese sake.
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It's just labelled as an alcoholic beverage.
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Nevertheless, it smells an awful lot like sake.
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[R]: It does already.
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[CB]: Chef Ryotaro.
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Ryotaro's kitchen.
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[C]: Ryotaro's kitchen... The most disappointing kitchen show to come out of Japan yet.
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--[R]: So I'm going to make a bottle of my own.
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So first of all, we need to put sake...
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Oohh...! [CLANK]
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[laughter]
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I... I put too much in there!
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[CB]: Did you just break the bottle?
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No, I didn't!
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Look at that.
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So right now, I'm about to put the lid on the bottle.
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But they let us practice first.
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-- [CB]: This is... This is terrifying. -- There it goes!
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[CB]: ... Look at your little face.
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[CB]: Now stick your finger in there and see what happens.
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[CB]: Hahahahaha!
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[R]: I don't think so...
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What could possibly go wrong?
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[R]: Good timing - get the timing right!
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-- I did it! Yayy. -- [R]: Looks alright! Looks alright.
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I didn't lose any fingers either.
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Success!
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[CB]: Your sticker's a lot higher than the good one...
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[CB]: Why is that?
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I'm always higher than the others, that's why.
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[CB]: Egotistical son of a...
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[R]: Right!
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[CB]: So it looks an awful lot like 'nigorizake', that kind of cloudy sake but,
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the main difference is there are much more rice grains in it.
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It's kind of a thick, pulpy sake.
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You can feel the rice, actually.
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What?
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You can feel the rice a bit.
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'You can feel the rice...'
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It looks a little bit like a pina colada.
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Hmm.
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I do quite like it.
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It tastes more alcoholic than normal sake.
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--[R]: It does indeed.
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--[CB]: But it's got a real kick at the end of it.
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In the same way whisky like hits the back the back of your throat.
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--Right, right. --This feels like it's got a kick in the back of your throat.
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Before coming to Japan, my image of sake was just, y'know, kind of a clear, water-like liquid.
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So clear and pure.
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But over the years, I've actually found that I prefer cloudy sake - it's got a lot more depth to it.
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It tastes like I'm drinking a cocktail, almost.
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It's quite good, I really like this. But, what about the other one?
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[R]: Because they make the doburoku right there, right now,
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they actually served us some doburoku - an unheated version, which is like raw doburoku.
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--So it looks the same. --It's not for sale.
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I mean, they actually served it for free.
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[R]: Wow... [cough cough]
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-- Wow... -- It tastes like being hit with a baseball bat in your mouth.
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-- It's a little bit more bitter. -- Yeah.
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-- And... -- It's for adults.
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It's for adults...
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[chuckles]
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I'm not an adult.
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I may look like a 45-year-old man, but I am just 28-- 29.
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-- Don't even know my own age... -- Ohh, come on.
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That's what happens when you drink this - you forget your own age!
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-- It's the miracle of doburoku... -- You just forget about everything...
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So we've got shabu shabu pork here, which is pork you dip in boiling water to cook it.
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But it's not normal shabu shabu pork -
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they've got some sort of sake sauce that goes with it. -- Doburoku sauce with it.
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Bloody hell... Doburoku everything.
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So when you put the thinly sliced pork into the water, it boils in about what, 40 seconds?
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-- [CB]: If that, it's cooked... -- [R]: Less, even. Less.
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[CB]: 0 to 30 seconds, your pork goes from being raw to cooked,
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which is great if you are as impatient as I am when it comes to eating.
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[R]: Mm, can I just add - okay, this is like a sesame sauce, right?
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And I'm going to add a little bit of the doburoku sauce into it.
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So that it can change a bit of the flavor.
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Mm!
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Isn't that nice? With the doburoku.
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[CB]: That is such an annoyingly cumbersome word to say - 'doburoku'.
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Yeah, like - well just say like 'dob-rock'.
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-- 'Duh-brock' - the rock. -- Like dub - 'dub-rock'.
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The rock... The Rock!
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Speaking of The Rock, did you see he gave me a shoutout on Twitter?
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No kidding.
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Yeah.
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Really?
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I went to my friend's restaurant - he owns it - and he thinks he looks like The Rock.
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Do they look the same? I don't know.
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Nevertheless, we tweeted The Rock himself, and he said, 'Well, where's the restaurant? I have to drop by the next time I'm around.'
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And, besides that, I've got a friend who looks like The Rock.
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Did you get a shoutout from The Rock on Twitter? -- No, no, no - you have to do it again!
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Y'know, it's like 'I found another guy who looks like you'.
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'Oh look, The Rock! It's another person that looks like you from Japan...'
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He'll be like, 'yeah, the joke's wearing thin, Ryotaro. Get out.'
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[CB]: What's the verdict on dubroku then?
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Well, the heated version - the ones they're selling...
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The one they're selling, unsurprisingly, it's quite good. -- It's pretty good, it's pretty good.
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150 villages across Japan that are allowed to produce doburoku.
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Yep.
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Getting there.
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Yeah, you're getting there. -- Now I can pronounce it.
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'Doburoku'.
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Do you know what's really hard to pronounce?
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Have you ever tried to say 'cold brew coffee' in Japanese?
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Koro blyuhd-- [shock]
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There you go!!
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[Chris slowly saying 'cold brew coffee' in Japanese]
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Is that 'brew' or 'blue'?
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[Cold brew coffee in Japanese again]
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Ah, blue- Is that blue coffee?
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Brew - like brewed.
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Ah, like blue... as in blue? -- Not blue - not blue coffee.
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Some sort of zombie version of coffee. -- I thought it--
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So before you come to Japan, those are the two phrases - the two words - you need to know:
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cold brew coffee, and doburoku.
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The only way I can get over a hangover these days is if I have a nice big lie in until 2 o'clock in the afternoon.
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Unfortunately, that's not happening mate.
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What do you mean?
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Well, I mean, we need to wake up early tomorrow to see the birds.
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And for that, we are waking up at, say... four.
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You mean 4 in the evening?
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No. Four in the bloody morning.
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.........
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What.
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When you...
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When you said we were gonna go look at the birds at 4, I thought 'oh yeah, in the afternoon'.
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Why would a bird get up a 4 o'clock in the morning?
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No, they get up at 5:30 in the morning.
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Why would a bird get up at 5:30 in the morning?!
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But Chris Broad...
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'Nice and shine'...
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How am I gonna get up at 4 o'clock in the morning after drinking 4 or 5 of doburoku?
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-- Oh my god... -- [Ryotaro laughing]
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Aurgh...
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It should be illegal to get up this early.
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[R]: Lazy bastard.
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You call me lazy, but I get up at 9am and I go to bed at 2 or 3am 'cause I usually edit really early into the morning.
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Abroad in excuses.
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'Abroad in excuses'......
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[CB]: Well, this bird better be bloody spectacular.
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It's not 'a bird'.
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It's 'bird-s'.
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Whatever. Whatever...--
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Bird-S!
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-- [R]: Got it? -- [CB]: Mhm......
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[CB]: It's so loud. It's incredibly loud.
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Thousands of birds - apparently there's 100,000 birds on this lake, and it's almost deafening how loud they are.
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To live around here would be nothing short of a nightmare.
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Unless you like birds, in which case, best place to be in north Japan.
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This actually reminds me a little bit of climbing Mount Fuji,
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because I think that's the last time I got up this early and saw the sunrise. And it is beautiful.
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Not that I expect to see it again for a long time.
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Hah. This is a one-off.