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Grab your woolly hats, scarves, and gloves
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because we're off on a road trip across Hokkaido.
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...And it's bloody cold.
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Hokkaido is Japan's second-largest island and most northern prefecture.
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Last year we visited Sapporo, the island's vibrant capital city,
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and I've returned for a road trip in a reasonably-priced car
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to uncover what makes Hokkaido such a popular tourist destination
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amongst Japanese and foreign travelers.
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There's so much to see that we've turned the journey into a two-part series.
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In this episode we'll journey across the island's seismically-active landscape,
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and in the second episode we'll stuff ourselves with the local cuisine.
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Joining us on our trip is my good friend Chris,
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a real-life American person who'll be acting as the cameraman
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and also splashing around in some water.
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That's- that's what he does.
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Let's get to know Chris with a quick Q&A session.
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Chris, what is your favorite thing in the world?
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- Ice cream. - That is the end of the Q&A.
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So, this is our car. It's a Toyota Vitz,
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also known as Toyota Yaris to most other countries.
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It's cheap, it's gonna get us from A to B,
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and we rented it from Nippon Rent-A-Car.
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There's three good car companies, good rental companies,
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in Japan that I recommend. Nippon Rent-A-Car, Toyota Rent-A-Car, and Niconico.
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Niconico tend to be the cheapest, but I often go Nippon Rent-A-Car,
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just 'cause I find the cars are slightly nicer and newer.
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So this is a map of Hokkaido.
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This is where we are now, in the city of Hakodate,
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and we're gonna drive along the coastline here, all the way to here.
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This is called Noboribetsu, or Hell's Valley.
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It's a very seismically active region, lots of geysers and hot springs and things.
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And then we're gonna drive from Noboribetsu to Furano.
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Now, Furano is right in the middle of Hokkaido
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and it's known for its big, rolling fields filled with lavender.
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And I think it's gonna be a lovely way to end this video,
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with a shot of the nice, rolling lavender fields of Hokkaido.
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So, are you ready, Chris? - I'm ready!
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- Are you ready, viewers? [Chris nods camera]
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- 'Course you are. Let's go and have a look.
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After 200 years of being closed off to the outside world,
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Japan finally opened up in the 1850s,
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allowing foreign trade at five ports throughout the country,
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one of which was Hakodate.
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In fact, the first-ever U.S. citizen to be buried on Japanese soil lies in the city;
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one of Commodore Perry's men,
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who passed away while American ships were surveying the port in 1854.
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And in the years that followed, the influx of trade and foreign cultures
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led to the presence of some not-so-looking Japanese architecture,
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architecture which can still be found throughout the city today.
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So this is our first stop.
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It's the top of Mount Hakodate, overlooking the entire city.
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It's quite a unique kind of place, given that we've got the sea on both sides
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and the city runs in between it.
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I've not been to a city in Japan quite like it.
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Great view. Incredibly cold, can't feel my fingers, but...
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Nice place to start the trip, I think. It's very romantic.
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It's just a shame that the person who's with me isn't...
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isn't someone you can really have romance with,
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but, uh... yeah.
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So we're at the base of Mount Hakodate,
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and it's a little bit of an odd kind of district,
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'cause there's lots of foreign, kind of European-style buildings around,
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like this Russian Orthodox Church. Because Hakodate opened in 1859--
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it was one of the first ports in Japan to open to the West--
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lots of European powers rocked up and started building
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churches and red brick buildings everywhere,
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so the whole area feels a bit of an anomaly.
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It doesn't feel like being in Japan. It's the least Japan-looking district
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that I've been in in Japan, and there's also a glove on the floor, look at this.
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Come over here.
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A glove.
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What can it mean?
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I quite want to wear it, 'cause I don't have any gloves
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and my hands are fffffffreally cold!
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But I'm gonna leave it there.
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But that's the kind of exciting thing you can find at the base of Mount Hakodate.
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Gloves.
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- *whimpering* - You don't... seem to handle the cold very well.
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- I'm LA-born, mother--
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- LA-born?
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- Gosh... Dude. *shivering*
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- *laughing* - Wait, let me zip my--
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Ohh, God.
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- That's a pretty impressive building; this is the old government ward building,
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so the government of Hakodate used to be based there.
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It's a very decadent-looking building.
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The only thing more impressive than this building
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is that elaborate snowman over there that's hastily been built this morning;
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come and look at this!
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The first snowman I've seen on a trip so far,
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and the detail and the quality of that expression is exceptional.
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That's a really good snowman. 8 out of 10.
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Got my British tea, and-- Oh, look!
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It's like being in the UK all over again.
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So we're in the old British Consulate building that was opened in 1859.
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These days it's just got a nice tea room and a museum.
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And it's a great place to get some British tea.
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We're sitting here, the snow's just kicked off outside,
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so it's bit of a blizzard at the moment.
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And our journey-- after this tea, our journey across Hokkaido will begin.
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So from Hakodate to Noboribetsu is about 200 kilometers and a three-hour drive.
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But because Hokkaido's scenery is supposedly legendary,
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it's supposed to be quite a nice drive, so...
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This is going to be an incredible trip,
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because Chris has brought a drone with him.
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This is the first video on this channel ever
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that's going to use some drone footage.
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I'm a bit of a skeptic when it comes to drones--
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Yeah, you can get some nice, artistic shots,
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but I like to make it feel like you're in the car with us going on the trip,
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not like a hundred meters in the sky, so...
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But yeah, maybe he can change my mind.
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- With drooones!
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- En route to Noboribetsu, we'd stop off at
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one of the most active volcanic sites on Hokkaido.
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So we've just stopped off halfway between Hakodate and Hell's Valley.
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And this is an active volcano called Usu volcano.
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We're about to go up it, actually, and get a better view
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but you can see here, there's steam coming out.
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There's steam and smoke, so it must be good;
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Isn't that right, Chris? - So good.
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- Let's go and have a look. - Let's go!
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Makes the snowman we saw in Hakodate look like the best snowman ever.
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This one doesn't even have a face, so let's contribute to that.
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There you go-- oh, shit.
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There you, now he's got a nose.
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Look at that!
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So here we are at the peak of Mount Usu, 2,400 feet up,
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and there's absolutely no wind.
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It's really eerie to be this high up and have no wind,
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but the view is spectacular.
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This is a really volcanic kind of region;
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it's so volcanic that there's been four eruptions since 1900.
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And in fact, this kind of mound-- this lump sticking out here before us,
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is called Showa Shinzan, and it erupted in 1943.
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Before, that was just a wheat field, and now it's a small mountain that's just risen up.
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When it happened, in between 1943 to 1945,
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the authorities were really worried about it as they thought it was a bad omen
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because it was happening during World War II;
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they thought it was a bad symbol, and...
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Yeah, what do you think, Chris? Isn't it amazing?
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- Perfect for a drone, eh? - Perfect for a drone?
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Let's see what you can do... with this drone of yours.
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Go on then, show us-- show us what you can do. - Compass... error.
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Compass error. *laugh* - "Compass error."
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- "Too much compass--" no, what--?
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Metal interference. Where's the metal? Do you see any metal?
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- Well, the volcano. I'm sure there's some metal going on here.
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What a sight this is.
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*laughing*
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- Where's the metal?
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- *laughing* A member of staff just ran over and told him off for trying to use the drone.
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Apparently you're not allowed to use it up here.
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And even if we were allowed, we still couldn't
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get the damn drone up and running due to magnetic interference, so...
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Yeah, don't bring your drone up here.
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And don't bring Chris up here, either.
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What do you think it was?
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- I don't know.
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Usually... I'm used- I'm like, next to some kind of metal object,
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but I can't see any metal objects here besides, I guess,
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the inside of the volcano, but...
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- Maybe it's your heart of steel, Chris.
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*both laughing* - Like Superman? *laughing*
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- *speaking Japanese*
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This is another famous dish in Hokkaido: corn and potatoes.
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Not together; separately.
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On a scale of 1 to chaos, loads of tourists have just rocked up
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while I was ordering the corn.
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It's all-- it's just one man, this one corn salesman,
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who's been undated by about 30 to 40 people. *laughing*
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They've just come off a truck.
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Still, the corn's fantastic!
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It's corn that's just been laced with incredible amounts of butter.
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Corn and dairy products are a really big part of Hokkaido's food culture, and...
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I actually-- when I when I came to Sapporo,
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Natsuki ordered lots of corn, he loved it.
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But I didn't, and now I can see why he ordered it.
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I did order a potato.
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Don't know where it's gone.
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He appears to have run off!
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He's gone.
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Oh, here he comes!
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Noboribetsu is Hokkaido's largest hot spring town,
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one of the best known in all of Japan.
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Whilst many of the country's hot springs are only visible behind closed doors,
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here in Noboribetsu the town's seismic activity takes on a far more visible role.
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We're about to reach the ominous-sounding Hell's Valley,
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the steaming valley that runs alongside Noboribetsu, where
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3,000 liters of hot water gush from the surface of the earth every single minute.
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It's quite a lot, innit?
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So we just turned a corner down the street,
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and there's a massive pillar of smoke rising up;
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I say smoke, it's obviously steam-- and that is Hell's Valley.
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It's, uh... starting to look like the gateway to hell.
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It's kind of just poking out between the mountains.
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Given that it's about minus 4 today, I'm looking forward to getting near the steam.
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It's a bit of an alien sight, I've never seen anything quite like it.
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I'm amazed there's any snow at all, actually,
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given how much steam is rising out between the between the cracks
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and the rivers of hot water.
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The smell of sulfur is pretty overwhelming.
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I think the thing that strikes me the most about the Jigokudani Valley is,
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it would be a really good skateboard park.
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I don't even do skateboarding, right, but you look at those ridges
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and you think, "Yeah!" Imagine going up and down like that,
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in between the- in between the steam.
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There's a sign over there saying "no drinking the water,"
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"no drinking the 60 degree water,"
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which makes me wonder, "Have people actually attempted to drink this?"
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Which would seem strange, given how sulfuric it actually smells. *laugh*
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Well, you'd have to be mad to drink it,
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but I would do anything right now to get in there and have a swim,
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bloody hell. Anything.
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What's it like?
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- Tastes chemical-y. - You didn't just drink it, did you?
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- Yeah. - You are- you are so odd.
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- Master Onsen Man. You gotta drink it. - It smells horrific.
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- Look, look: look at this black sand. Look.
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- And you drank that?
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You- you are... ugh. - Onsen Man!
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*laughing*
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- So, we found this secluded foot bath...
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that Chris has been drinking from.
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We're just in a forest; there's actually nobody around.
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And there's just this area where you can sit down
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and dip your feet into the water.
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And it's a little bit odd that there's no one here. I don't know why--
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I guess it's 'cause it's quite isolated.
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We're in a forest and it's a little bit of a walk off the main road.
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- Look, it's black sand!
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Look at that!
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- Wow.
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This video just got 20 percent better!
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- I feel like you can exfoliate your feet very well in here.
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- I would get in it myself, but we didn't bring any towels.
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Sometimes it's just nicer to live vicariously through Chris' experience.
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- Noboribetsu dance.
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Noboribetsu dance!
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Yeahhh, boy!